Hello SE++ homps, this is the new fashion thread. Just for you. Herein discuss the proper way to pop your collar and what color socks go best with what color sandals. As you can see there are some lovely little articles written by fellow members of the community (and some kind outsiders) to assist you in all your clothing related endeavors. It is a work in progress, and more articles are incoming! The idea is to accumulate a few new articles so we can release them all at once, like an update
. Whenever We have something new for you to check out the thread title will be given notice and thread bumped accordingly. This is a collaborative effort, so if you want to contribute to the Fashion thread, hit me with a PM and I can give you further details on what it is that we need. There isn't much right now but I hope you like what is there and I hope you look forward to future updates.
How to Shop
Shopping for clothing isn’t as simple as it might appear. You go to the store, try something on and if it fits and if you like it, you buy it, right? Nope! Well, it could work out that way, but all too often, it is easy to get overwhelmed by options and buy nothing, or buy clothing you don’t need or that doesn’t fit well because it is on sale or just so you don’t leave empty-handed. Ask yourself why you are shopping in the first place. Are you simple tired of your wardrobe and trying to revamp? Do you need something specific replaced? Have you found new employment that necessitates a change in dress? Maybe you really just want to buy something new. Either way, knowing why you are shopping helps you plan your shopping trip; unless you have the money to burn or are already a seasoned shopper, planning ahead of time is a good idea. If you don’t shop often or find yourself easily enticed by sales racks or just plain don’t like having to do it, it will probably help to write down what it is you hope to buy. Be as specific as you think you need, provided it is reasonable. Say you are looking for ‘cardigans’. You could quite simply leave it at that, or specify further, ‘wool cardigans, neutral colors’ (fabric, cut and colors are good places to start). Simply writing/typing things down can help you focus, but bringing the list along with you isn’t a bad idea either (you really might just forget what it is you need once at the store). I recommend also keeping a ‘master list’ of things you want/need to eventually buy. You may want to consider setting a budget for yourself; how much you can spend within a month, a particular trip, or even on a specific item.
Ask yourself: Do you shop best alone or with a friend? I personally find shopping with other people distracting. 75 percent of what is in my closet that I never wear I have only bought because I was pressured into buying them by friends or family. I try to shop along as often as possible. Maybe you feel similarly. Go shopping with a friend/s or family member/s at least once though, maybe you’ll find that shopping as a group is better for you. Maybe person X is a great gauge of cut and color and maybe Y knows where the best sales are. Whether you go shopping alone or as part of a group can make your trip drastically more or less efficient/fun.
Most stores are divided by gender, and then are usually broken up into colors. This can either be helpful (because you really want something yellow) or not (the blue coats are in the blue section, not in a section just for coats). Department stores tend to do this less. If you are genuinely lost, ask a salesperson for help. There isn’t much to say other than ‘start looking’ based on any preset criteria. Pick up clothing that closest approximates what you want/need, and then go try it on. Don’t wait until you can barely carry everything before trying it on. Most stores will only allow you to bring so much clothing into a fitting room anyway.
The fit of clothing is another section, but suffice to say, the clothing should fit properly (though you have more leeway if you have a tailor). Check it from all angles; move around in them a little. If you are ambivalent about a piece of clothing, don’t buy it. You are only trying to convince yourself that you like something that you really do not. Only buy something if you genuinely like it. Don’t be afraid to go up or down a size that you normally wear. Clothing manufacturers are stupid, clothing sizes vary from brand to brand. Hold onto what you intend to buy and put back everything else, and keep shopping. You may temporarily leave clothing up front with the cashier if you like, so long as you ask. Check the clothing for tears and stains before buying. You might be unpleasantly surprised.
Stores usually order fewer small and large sizes. If you tend to fit into those best, be ready to pay a bit more. These sizes are snatched up quickly and rarely make it to the sales rack. If you are a smaller/larger size and see something that fits, and there is only one of it (or only a few), and you like it, buy it. You may be tempted to return some other day to buy it, but chances are, it won’t be there when you return. You can usually return it later.
Salespeople often work on commission, and may try to sell you on something you do not need. It is easy enough to rebuke their help, “No thank you, I’ve got this.” If you come to the store prepared however, they can be very helpful. They can help you find the specific items you are looking for, or the correct size, or bring you items that are hung up somewhere high or stored in the back. Truly pushy salespeople are rare, but their gawking at you may prove distracting. Do your best to ignore them, smile back (really wide), or listen to music. It shouldn’t be that hard.
Maybe you want to coordinate a new outfit using existing pieces or have a particular piece of clothing that needs an accompaniment or are trying to find matching earrings for a necklace. If possible, bring that item with you, or at the very least, take a picture of it. You may even want to consider wearing some of those pieces when you go on your shopping trip, to see right then and there if the outfits work or not (usually though this will be too much of a hassle). If the return trip isn’t too inconvenient and the store’s return policy is good, buy the clothing and ‘test it out’ at home. You can return it later if you do not like it though ideally you shouldn’t have to do that. Consider leaving those existing articles of clothing out somewhere in your home ahead of time, so when you return from you trip, you can immediately start assessing whether or not they all compliment one another. Otherwise you may never get around to it, and before you know it, it is too late to return the clothes. If you want to buy an entirely new outfit, at least have something in mind.
A note on sales: sales racks are enticing. Here is where people end up buying more than what they need. “It’s so cheap, I should buy it!” But if you never wear it, it was just a waste of money. Buy it only if you really like it or think you will really wear it. Sales racks usually only have average sizes. If you are on the larger or smaller size they usually aren’t worth the effort.
Outlet stores and sales racks are often very messy. I don’t bother with them at all. It is too frustrating. Some people can trawl through the mess to find gems, more power to them. If you haven’t the temperament, it is just highly unpleasant.
Shop when you have time and energy or you will be stressed and miserable. Have at least a neutral attitude.
You will be changing often so wear clothing that you can take on and off easily.
Wear comfy shoes because you will be walking a lot and possibly removing them often.
Your hair may get messed up so don’t labor over it.
Your socks will come off each time you change pants (especially if they are skinny jeans).
Wear light makeup, if any. It might accidentally smear on clothing (particularly shirts and dresses).
Unless it is cold, don’t wear thick coats, or bring backpacks or very large bags. Salespeople will eye you, thinking you might shoplift.
Try to look presentable. The salespeople will treat you better.
Don’t go shopping with food. This should be baby stuff. Most places have signs telling you not to bring food inside. Too many people ignore them. Don’t be that stupid baby. If you have just eaten, wash your hands thoroughly.
Carrying several bags may look neat, but is annoying. Ask for one big bag at a store, and start stuffing anything you buy anywhere else into that bag.
Cheap accessories are usually near the cashier, just like candy bars. Buy them at your discretion. They should match an outfit you already own (or what you are buying). Preferably they match more than one outfit.
Lastly: save all your receipts. You never know!
Basic Items a Woman Should Own
Basic Items for a Woman’s Wardrobe
Buying Shoes (women)
These items are generally useful and easy to pair with other items to create a variety of looks (unlike say, sequined boleros). Some of these items can be disregarded if the climate one lives in renders them useless. Buy in neutral colors. This rule us periodically affirmed or occasionally refuted throughout the list. It is easier to pair neutrals to other neutrals. The only qualifier is to avoid dressing entirely in a single neutral color. It very rarely looks good, especially when you realize that your black outfit is comprised of several pieces that are each slightly different shades of black. For the most part, spend as much has you think is necessary; if you see a 120 dollar pea-coat that you really like, the cost is justified if you plan on wearing it often. Don’t spend very much on clothing that isn’t seen because you will be layering more clothing over it. Honestly though, there aren’t too many hard and fast rules about how you should spend your money. Just be wise with it, and build up your closet over time.
1. Jeans; own at least two dark blue jeans, as neat looking as possible (as in, no intentional rips or fading). One should absolutely be straight leg. The other can be skinny or bootleg, it really depends on what cut flatters you best. Dark rinse Blue Jeans can be ‘dressed up’, and ‘dressed down’, as in they are suitable for varying degrees of formality/casualness; it is the other articles of clothing and the accessories that will determine how formal/casual you appear, not the jeans. Medium rinse jeans are more casual, but it is worth eventually buying them as well, they aren’t listed as a Basic Item however because they aren’t as versatile as dark rinse jeans are. Jeans have their own dedicated, highly detailed section. It is worth reading.
2. Black Suit: This can generally be disregarded if one doesn’t expect to work in a professional environment (the attire for the occasional formal outing can be hodge-podged from other articles of clothing). For everyone else however, a black suit ensemble is worth the effort. The black suit has its own, more detailed article further below.
3. White Collared Dress Shirt: Preferably button up. A white collared dress shirt can be worn in a variety of outfits, and can made either casual or more formal depending on what it is paired with. It is a highly versatile article of clothing. Get a black one next.
4. Neutral Dress. People say ‘little black dress’, but it can be white or grey. At the longest it should skirt the knee. If it is sleeved, it should be short-sleeved. The fabric should be able to be worn from season to season. As in avoid summery linens or wintery woolen fabrics. Avoid an overly matronly or overly casual cut and neckline. Like your dark wash jeans, this dress should be easily dressed up and down depending on the occasion. Avoid over adornment, very tight and stretchy fits and shiny fabrics. The cut should be simple but flattering for your figure.
5. Layering Shirts/Camisoles. Plain shirts meant to be worn underneath other articles of clothing. Buy a lot of these, in many colors (in this case, not necessarily neutrals) with many necklines and sleeve lengths; just don’t spend too much money on them.
6. Mid Size Purse: Big enough to carry what you need, not too big you can fit a lunch inside. Opt for leather. The strap should fit comfortably across the shoulder. A neutral color is best (though red generally gets a lot of slack). It needn’t match your shoes and belt.
7. Cold Weather Coat. Pea-coat, trench-coat, (what have you) the cut should be classic, the color neutral, and the fabric warm (and please, no zippers). How long it should be depends on the weather. At the shortest it should be mid-thigh, followed by knee length, and possibly longer if you live in a very cold environment. If the weather gets cold enough where you live, you may want to consider buying more than one cold-weather coat in a variety of lengths.
8. Blazer: At the longest this should hit at the pubic bone. It should have some waist definition. A blazer with buttons is more formal; if it comes with buttons it should have lapels too. Blazers are heavier than cardigans but lighter than pea-coats and trench-coats.
9. Black Pants: Either boot cut or straight leg. Not denim!
10. Cardigan. Sometimes it will be too brisk to go without extra layers, but not cold enough to warrant a coat. At the longest it should hit the pubic bone. Other good lengths are where the hips crest, and where the hips first flare from the waist. What looks best depends on your body type.
11. Knee length skirt. You will hear people say ‘pencil skirt’ often (a straight and narrow cut knee-length skirt), but it isn’t a flattering shape on everybody. An A-line skirt works well for those who don’t like how they look in pencil skirts.
12. Pajamas you won’t be embarrassed to be seen in. The day will come when you will have to open the door to somebody when you’ve just barely woken up. Sweet troll jegus don’t splurge on them.
13. Black Tights/leggings. You can wear them underneath pants when it gets cold or wear them with miniskirts and dresses for warmth and modesty.
14. Full and Half-length Slip: Wear these underneath your dresses. It will absorb scent and sweat and what have you in place of your dress, so that you may wash the slip instead of the dress. Buy a couple of these. They don’t have to be expensive so long they get the job done. It may be worth spending more for a warm woolen slip or something made of silk however, if you feel that you need it.
15. Sweaters and/or Turtlenecks: It will get cold eventually. Plain solid colors are fine. They shouldn’t cost much.
16. Solid Colored Scarf. For when it gets cold. Ignore the rule about things having to be neutral. Scarves are good to have but are often as not worn as accessories. Get something colorful if you like.
17. Plain Leather Belt: Not a ‘fashion’ belt, a belt to actually hold things up. You will try your damndest to buy clothes that fit, but it is incredibly useful to have anyway. Buy a belt that is either matte or just slightly glossy (it should match your shoes).
Many women like shoe shopping more than shopping for clothing. Sizes aren’t standard but so long as you aren’t an unusual size it will generally be easier to buy shoes
Essential Shoes Every Girl Should Own
than clothes. Basic tips:
DON’T SHOP IN HIGH HEELS. Taking your foot in and out of the shoe will eventually pain them.
DON’T BUY SHOES WITHOUT TRYING THEM ON. This should be obvious. Just because it is ‘your size’ doesn’t mean it will fit.
Don’t buy on a whim unless you have an outfit to pair the shoes with.
It is worth spending more money on shoes that you will wear often or that can be paired with several outfits.
If you intend to wear your shoes with tights or socks, try the shoe on with the socks/tights! Otherwise they may be too tight so as to be impossibly uncomfortable.
Please wear cleans socks or use the little foot ‘socks’ they provide when trying on shoes.
If your feet aren’t exactly the same size buy for your larger foot. You can make your smaller foot fit the bigger shoe but you can not make a bigger foot fit into a smaller shoe without considerable plain, unless the shoe is leather in which case you can stretch the leather out).
You may notice that shoe stores sell several small shoe accessories at the front. They are incredibly useful. You can buy stick-on slip guards for the soles of your shoes for added friction, gel inserts to make shoes more comfortable, and padding to make a large shoe fit better, among other things. If they do not display them at the cashier, you may ask for them. They usually have some under the cashier’s table or in the back. Some stores give them away for free. I recommend keeping some on hand just in case.
Your foot size isn’t permanent. If you gain/lose a lot of weight or become pregnant, your shoe size will change.
Buy your shoes later in the day. Throughout the day your feet swell a little bit.
Clothes That Every Man Should Own
1. Classic Black Heel; mid-height, closed-toe, made of either of a matte or slightly glossy material, and low vamp. The vamp is where the where the shoe cuts across the foot as seen from the front (the image provided is of a shoe with a low vamp). Avoid boxed, rounded, or overly pointy toes. Also avoid ornamentation, these heels are supposed to match a wide variety of outfits, and sequined black heels don’t exactly compliment a business suit.
2. Flats: Preferably in Black. Brown is fine too, as is white, but brown is generally harder to match with other colors, and white dirties easier.
3. Open Toed Sandals: For when it gets hot. Please though, not flip-flops.
4. Sneakers: Fine for casual attire, comfy too.
5. Black boots: It will get cold eventually. Like your classic black heels, avoid over adornment or too glossy materials or too boxy/round/pointy toes.
6. Strappy heels: For parties and other social events with friends and family.
7. Casual shoes: AKA Bunny Slippers and Flip Flops. It is impossible to look impeccable 100 percent of the time. Flip flops and warm bunny slippers are for those times.
Fashion is often seen by men as frivolous and unnecessary, but that is not really the case. The clothes you wear are a projection of your personality to others, and when meeting someone for the first time, it's one of the first things they see. With this in mind, you'll want your wardrobe to include a number of garments that will look good with most other things you wear, and won't go out of fashion.
How to Wear a Suit by ZeroFill
1. A Navy Or Grey Suit
Every man should own at least one suit. No matter how casually you dress on the weekends, there are going to be times in your life when a suit is a requirement. While black suits are a popular choice for beginners, they can't be worn with brown shoes, and are limited in color choices for their accessories. Navy or grey however, are slightly more casual than black, and can be worn with almost any combination of shirts and shoes. You're also a lot less likely to be asked if you're going to a funeral.
2. At Least Two White Dress Shirts And One Blue Dress Shirt
You're going to need a shirt to wear with that suit, and it's better to start with more conservative colors like white and light blue before moving on to more complicated or unconventional colors, like purple or a striped pattern. Just make sure it fits right first, if the shirt billows out around your waist and sleeves, it's too big.
3. A Dark Colored Tie
You can't go around in a suit all the time without a tie. In this case, something black with either a simple or no design is a good start, but anything dark colored will do. Darker ties are more formal than lighter ones, and therefor more suited to any event where a tie is needed.
4. Two Pairs Of Good Black And Brown Shoes
Dress shoes come in a variety of styles, whether they're laced, buckled, slip on or boots. Most men buy black shoes first. Black is more formal, and go well with almost any suit, but brown shoes are more casual, and can even be worn to dress up jeans easily. In this case, it's best to have one pair of each, to match whatever outfit you're wearing. For reference, black looks good with black and grey, while brown looks good with blue, grey, and brown.
5. A Navy Blazer
A blazer, or sports-coat, is a casual version of the suit jacket. The difference is that blazers can be made out of almost any material, such as cotton, corduroy, tweed, velvet, and even camel hair, while typical suits tend to be made out of wool or a wool blend. Blazers are a good choice for a casual outing, since they can be worn with t-shirts, polos, and jeans while still appearing dressy.
6. A Pair Of Dark Blue Jeans
Jeans are the most versatile style of pants ever to be added to the man's wardrobe. Of all the styles, dark blue is the most classic, and will go with virtually everything you wear with it, even suit jackets. The only rule you really have to remember is to never wear jeans with a denim jacket, it looks ridiculous. If you're a farmer, you can ignore this rule.
7. A Nice Overcoat
There is a surprising amount of men this winter choosing to wear layered hoodies instead of a coat. While this is fine for teenagers and college students, it looks out of place on an adult. So dress like a man this winter and wear an overcoat, they come in a variety of styles, and can be worn to complement a suit or make jeans look good.
8. A Simple Black Belt
A belt is a simply accessory; it's there to hold your pants up. So don't go overboard and get one with a tacky buckle and keep it simple instead. Also, always make sure your belt color matches your shoes' color, no exceptions.
9. Several Black Cotton Dress Socks
Finally, make sure you own several pairs of black dress socks. Suits can't be worn with white gym socks, and these will go with any other pair of pants you want to wear too.
Keep in mind that these are only the essentials. A real wardrobe will consist of much more types of clothing that help you develop your own individual style. But as far as essentials go, it's hard to go wrong with any of these options.
How to wear a suit for men:
Lets make Raccoons everywhere proud, as they are the fashion thread's designated mascot. So let us make this thread 5 HIISSSSSSCRASGAAHHHs out of 5.
First, some basics-
A suit is a modern form of formal wear. There are a huge amount of variations in design, level of formality, and ways to wear a suit. In its most basic form, a suit is a matching jacket and trousers made from the same material. This material can be made from many natural fibers, most often wool, however cotton and linen suits also exist.
My opinion: Everyone should own a suit. You never know when the occasion will call for it, and last second scrambling will have you looking like crap. You can dress up, dress down, and tailor a good suit to any occasion.
Modern suits come in a few basic varieties:
Two-piece: Consists of a matching jacket and trousers or slacks. Typically when one thinks of wearing a suit to work, or church, or any other semi-formal occasion, this is what springs to mind. Typically worn with a collared shirt and tie, and considered the least formal.
Three-piece: An increased step in formality, adds a matching vest to the above set.
Jackets themselves also come in two basic varieties-
Single-breasted: A single breasted jacket is again, the least formal and standard form of jacket. It uses a single row of buttons, placed low near the waistline. Modern fashion dictates 2-3 buttons are present.
Double-breasted: A jacket with two vertical rows of buttons, with only the outer buttons functional. Often seen as more formal, or worn by older gentlemen. Increasingly uncommon.
Jackets can have some variations within these types, typically in the type of sleeves, lapel, and cut in the tail, known as a vent. There are typically 4 buttons on the sleeve that are non-functional. Lapels can come in a variety of cuts, with notched being the most common. There are also peaked lapels, considered more formal (think tuxedo).
A cut in the back of a jacket is a vent, and facilitates reaching into your pockets and sitting down.
Trousers have less variation, and tend to have changed as fashion changes through the decade. Most variation is seen in whether the trousers have pleats or not. Typically most trousers will have two pleats in the front, giving a better hang off the waist and making sitting more comfortable. Non pleated is a more trendy choice, giving a smoother and slimmer appearance.
Trousers may have a cuff at the bottom, though this is an informal option.
They also are made to take either a belt or suspenders, with belts being far more common. If they're made for suspenders, the buttons to attach them will be inside the waistband.
So what color do I choose?
The basics are: Black, grey, and navy blue. There are also brown, olive and tan.
Patterns such as pinstripes are also available. Your standard suit is going to be a 3 button navy blue single breasted suit. A common thread between all of these is that they are fairly neutral colors. This is not where you make your impression, or impact. You don’t want to be this guy:
You’d much rather be this guy:
Black suits are considered more formal, but this is slowly declining. I still wouldn't recommend a solid black suit as your only one. At most, something with a slight pinstripe.
Color comes out in your accessories: A bold tie, or even a patterned shirt.
This section could be its own huge article, however I won’t get that far into it. Most dress shirts will be long sleeved, fully buttoned, and collared. They can be of any color, but most will be a light blue or white. Other pastels are seen such as soft greens. The cuffs can close with buttons (common, less formal, known as barrel cuffs) or cuff links (less common, more formal, known as French cuffs). The collar can be spread, point, or button-down. Spread is wider and lays against the chest, point stands up and is smaller. Button down pins the ends of the collar points down against the shirt with small buttons. These shirts are not traditionally worn with suits. There are shirts made with offset color collars, usually white. These are more formal however typically associated with business. Ideally a shirt should be long enough to easily tuck in. Cotton is an excellent material, synthetics tend not to breathe and rumple up easily. Linen shirts wrinkle extremely easily, though can be worn in the summer. Buying a shirt can be far from simple; your best bet is to be measured for your neck and arm length, which gives you the two numbers shirts are usually sized in, 16 34, for instance. Once you have a good idea what size to look for, you can try sizes near your measured size for fit and comfort. Shirts are also often classified as “regular” and “athletic” cuts, or variations on these. Regular is a wider, squarer cut, while athletic is tapered and rids the shirt of excess material at the sides. I prefer these.
Shirts should be ironed, and if necessary, starched.
Ties are always darker than the shirt. While the tie and shirt shouldn’t be the same exact color, the tie should contain some color in the pattern of the shirt so as to provide a match that leads into the shirt cleanly. Again, the standard is a light, very pale blue shirt, likely with pinstripes or checks, and a darker navy blue tie.
Don’t get a clip on. Don’t do it. They look like clip-ons. Learn how to tie a tie! It’s not too difficult, and while there are a lot of methods to do so, there are a few basic ones:
The Half-Windsor: Gives a smaller, slimmer knot that is more comfortable and less formal.
And the Full Windsor: Gives a very full, very triangular knot that dresses up a shirt.
Set up the length of the tie for the point to end up around your navel, or belt line. Tuck the slim end in the label on the back of the tie, or use a tie tack/bar. The slim end should not extend past the wider end once tied.
Belts are relatively simple. Wear one, even if your trousers stay up without it. I’m not going to get into suspenders as they’re not common in the US and unlikely to be used by someone reading this. Belts and shoes should match, not precisely but the same color, i.e. brown belt/shoes. They should be made of leather. The buckle should be simple and be silver or gold in color, preferably matching other jewelry such as a watch or rings.
Shoes are always of the “dress” variety, such as Oxfords, or slip-ons. In a somewhat backwards way, a simpler shoe is considered more formal, and those with more decoration less so. Most shoes are going to be black or brown. Black is worn with black or grey suits, and brown with navy and any other color of suit. The brown is typically of a darker shade. If you're not sure, a good choice is a pair of Oxfords.
Pocket watches, handkerchiefs, and watch chains can all be worn with a suit to increase it’s formality. For the watch, you need a pocket-style watch and a chain to attach it to a vest. The watch chain is threaded through a button hole and the watch is placed in the left pocket.
A handkerchief or “pocket square” can be worn in the chest pocket but aren’t very common and typically seen as a wedding or other formal occasion accessory.
Socks typically should match the trouser to minimize attention to the leg. They can also be darker or simply black. Don’t wear white socks unless you happen to be wearing a white suit.Wearing the suit:
Never button the bottom button. It just isn’t done. Make sure your shirt collar stays inside your jacket, however the sleeves may protrude slightly from the cuffs. Keep your shoes polished, and buff out any scuffs.
I don’t have a suit. Where do I start?
My suggestion is to have one suit in your inventory, for the occasional wedding, interview, funeral, or any other occasion that might pop up. It should ideally be a relatively neutral color, navy blue or gray. Have a shirt or two ready to go, white or light blue. Find a nice dark blue silk tie, and branch out from there.
Where do I go?
There are quite a few places you can go to find a premade suit. Tailor-made (known as bespoke suits) can be prohibitively expensive unless you happen to find yourself overseas where the craft is still common. These pre-made suits will still need to be tailored to fit you well. So find a place like Men’s Warehouse, and ask to be measured. The staff can assist you in making alterations once you find a suit to your liking. You don’t have to spend a fortune on a suit that you won’t be wearing every day. Higher quality suits typically have greater durability, which you probably don’t need in something you’ll wear infrequently. Look for something that fits you well, gives you a good silhouette, and puts forward the impression that you know how to dress in a day in age where this tradition is slowly becoming forgotten by the common man.
Feel free to use the Raccoon when rating something. The more adorable burglarness the better. Likewise, use the next Raccoons to express disgust.
Now get to being stylish as fuck.