Yeah, XP mode is different than the "Compatibility Mode" in properties, where it has like XP SP3, Vista, etc. XP Mode is actually like an XP shell built in to Windows. I have 7 Pro and I've never once used it.
Yeah, I bought it thinking a built in Windows XP would let me run legacy programs only to find out
Hey guys, pretty knackered but mostly done. Could someone please link to a thorough guide I could check to see where I've gone wrong (for when I wake up :P)? In the meantime, some questions:
1. I couldn't seat my cooler (CM Hyper TX3 Evo) on my 3570k even though it should be compatible?
2. I keep getting a CPU fan error on startup with the standard cooler.
3. GPU not recognised but fans are working
4. The usual SSD management questions
Sorry this is a bit useless but frankly it's 3:30am and I've been working on this thing for five hours. Maybe I'll be more coherent in the morning (also pics, I know y'all love those).
3DS: 2234-8122-8398 | Battle.net (EU): Ladi#2485
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Just_Bri_ThanksSeething with ragefrom a handbasket.Registered User, ClubPAregular
Dumb question for windows configuration.
I pretty much only use my desktop as a dumping ground for unsorted downloads. Otherwise it is empty other than my recycle bin.
Is there a way to move the desktop onto a second drive rather than my windows drive, seeing as that drive is my smallest one.
I really would like my desktop to point at my 2tb drive, as that is the best place for me to put stupid crap that the internet keeps offering up for my entertainment.
...and when you are done with that; take a folding
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I pretty much only use my desktop as a dumping ground for unsorted downloads. Otherwise it is empty other than my recycle bin.
Is there a way to move the desktop onto a second drive rather than my windows drive, seeing as that drive is my smallest one.
I really would like my desktop to point at my 2tb drive, as that is the best place for me to put stupid crap that the internet keeps offering up for my entertainment.
Your desktop is actually a folder in your User folder. The easiest way to do this is to move the entire User structure to a second drive. I'm not sure you can just move the desktop portion, though it may be possible with copious registry hacking.
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
This post is like those diary entries you find in video games where they just cut off mid-sentence.
RIP ALECTHAR
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
This post is like those diary entries you find in video games where they just cut off mid-sentence.
RIP ALECTHAR
Or like a diary entry where the writer is half asleep when he pulls the trigger on a post.
Windows 7 enables TRIM and disables defragging. Page file changing, which isn't hugely important, isn't done automatically, and I don't remember if indexing is. I don't have it on at all, and can't remember if I did that or Windows did.
Yeah, XP mode is different than the "Compatibility Mode" in properties, where it has like XP SP3, Vista, etc. XP Mode is actually like an XP shell built in to Windows. I have 7 Pro and I've never once used it.
Yeah, I bought it thinking a built in Windows XP would let me run legacy programs only to find out
XP Mode is not compatible with games. I learned this too late.
EDIT: Also, the GTX 690 is going for $1200 on Newegg and is already sold out. What the fuck people.
I believe it is actually just a modified version of Microsoft Virtual PC with a standard XP image baked into it. Not eminently useful, but actually could probably play some ancient games.
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
Air goes where you push it, so really, airflow in your case is more a matter of making sure fresh air is coming in, and hot air is being exhausted. I mean, sure, people talk about turbulence, or pockets of hot air, but frankly I don't have a PhD in Fluid Dynamics so I don't really have shit to say about the way air will move in a case, I just know that there's not enough temperature swings going around that convective forces can overcome the action of case fans. I have an H60 in my CM 690 II mounted as an intake, and it's fine. Having an exhaust fan back their is mainly important because it helps exhaust air heated by the CPU cooler, so if you're intaking air over the radiator there, you don't need to worry about that. If you need to, add 1 or 2 top exhausts, I think the R3 supports that.
Also, I almost want to suggest that you just go with the H80. To me, the 12 bucks are worth it, because you get fans you could always use elsewhere, and I'd also rather blow my fucking brains out than mount one of those circular CPU blocks again.
Yeah, XP mode is different than the "Compatibility Mode" in properties, where it has like XP SP3, Vista, etc. XP Mode is actually like an XP shell built in to Windows. I have 7 Pro and I've never once used it.
Yeah, I bought it thinking a built in Windows XP would let me run legacy programs only to find out
XP Mode is not compatible with games. I learned this too late.
EDIT: Also, the GTX 690 is going for $1200 on Newegg and is already sold out. What the fuck people.
I believe it is actually just a modified version of Microsoft Virtual PC with a standard XP image baked into it. Not eminently useful, but actually could probably play some ancient games.
They'd have to be extremely ancient because it doesn't support DirectX at all. And if they're that old, they're probably DOS games, in which case, Dosbox.
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
I think having the H70 mounted as an exhaust only raises your temperature a degree or two, I seem to remember seeing articles saying it doesnt really matter, but you'll get slightly better performance if its an intake (at the expense of the temps for your other components).
The H80 probably is easier to mount, but I honestly dont remember having that much trouble with the H70.
Total side note, now that I can hear my video card fan Im tempted to stop running to monitors since that raises the temp of my card about 10c.
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
I think having the H70 mounted as an exhaust only raises your temperature a degree or two, I seem to remember seeing articles saying it doesnt really matter, but you'll get slightly better performance if its an intake (at the expense of the temps for your other components).
The H80 probably is easier to mount, but I honestly dont remember having that much trouble with the H70.
Total side note, now that I can hear my video card fan Im tempted to stop running to monitors since that raises the temp of my card about 10c.
Holy shit, thank you for that. I take it you have two top fans?
Very interesting, they found that the cooler worked BETTER as an exhaust in a case with just a front intake. I think, for my purposes, I'm going to run a front intake, bottom intake and the H70 as an exhaust. I feel pretty good about that and if I need to get crazy and put in some top or side fans, well the case can handle that, but keeping the top and side closed up seems like will be better acoustically. It's a place to start, and I can experiment a bit.
How do the two H70 fans connect together? I'm assuming they don't run on discreet fan headers. Do the H70 fans and the pump get ganged into the CPU fan header or something?
EDIT: Also, can you split PWM fans with a passive splitter or do you need one that taps the power supply? That may be a stupid question, but I am asking it anyway.
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Off the top of my head, you could go with a non-2500k if your not OCing it. Go with a different brand of PSU, a lower priced Mobo, and combo deal a few of the items.
Easy thing to do is when you add an item to your cart right below it says "Item xxxxx has been added to your cart" theres a combo deals available see all ###" and just page through what combos are around. You can save a couple of extra bucks on the items your already buying with that combo, but be aware it removes any promo codes so make sure the combo discount is great than the promo code.
If I remember correctly the pump goes on the CPU fan plug and the two fans on the waterblock are plugged into a combining thing (Y splitter thing) and go into one of the sys fan plugs.
My H70 came with mounting screws that were pretty long which I used to screw the fan closest to the case wall (so the left one) to the case and the waterblock and then I think it came with another 4 screws that may have been shorter that I used to screw the right fan into the waterblock.
If I remember correctly the pump goes on the CPU fan plug and the two fans on the waterblock are plugged into a combining thing (Y splitter thing) and go into one of the sys fan plugs.
My H70 came with mounting screws that were pretty long which I used to screw the fan closest to the case wall (so the left one) to the case and the waterblock and then I think it came with another 4 screws that may have been shorter that I used to screw the right fan into the waterblock.
Ah cool, that ASUS board has 2 CPU fan headers that are apparently 4-pin controllable, while the other 3 headers are 3 or 4 pin controllable. What I'm assuming this means is that if I plug the (I'm assuming) 3 pin pump into one of the CPU headers it will just run full blast. Are you supposed to modulate the speed of the pump or is it designed to just run as fast as possible?
The two CPU headers are rated at 1amp (12w), which I'm assuming is stated because it's lower than normal? Does this mean that putting the two H70 fans on a PWM splitter and sticking them on the other CPU header would be inadvisable?
I'm guessing the reason they suggest mounting the H70 as an intake is so that the air it blows past the radiator is cooler, which would make the cooling of that particular component more effective, but probably be sub-optimal for the temperature of the air inside the case, which would effect everything, but especially the videocard and anything else that's air cooled.
Theoretically, if you could jury rig the H70 fan and radiator to be entirely outside of the case, and put another (outtake) fan where it would be, that would be the best of both worlds for cooling. But it would also look funny.
I'm guessing the reason they suggest mounting the H70 as an intake is so that the air it blows past the radiator is cooler, which would make the cooling of that particular component more effective, but probably be sub-optimal for the temperature of the air inside the case, which would effect everything, but especially the videocard and anything else that's air cooled.
Theoretically, if you could jury rig the H70 fan and radiator to be entirely outside of the case, and put another (outtake) fan where it would be, that would be the best of both worlds for cooling. But it would also look funny.
Yeah it's kind of an awkward airflow concept. Apparently, if you're using a blower-based video card cooler (which I will) there are also issues with hot air from the video card getting sucked into the radiator when it's acting as an intake, which further complicates the problem. To me, it seems like if you can get air flowing well enough in the case, it's probably an over-all win to just have the radiator exhaust the heat out of the case. It may take some experimenting. Just need to figure out how I'm going to hook all the fans up.
Having your rads on exhaust is just fine. If you were running a pair of overclocked GPUs that had open air style coolers you might have highish internal case temps, but if that is your setup you wanna be careful about having sufficient exhaust anyway.
e: in a modern rig the two things that are dumping a ton of heat into the case are the GPU and the CPU, so since you're running a blower card that will be mostly exhausting it's waste heat out the back anyway I don't think your internal temps will be too atrocious.
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
I think having the H70 mounted as an exhaust only raises your temperature a degree or two, I seem to remember seeing articles saying it doesnt really matter, but you'll get slightly better performance if its an intake (at the expense of the temps for your other components).
The H80 probably is easier to mount, but I honestly dont remember having that much trouble with the H70.
Total side note, now that I can hear my video card fan Im tempted to stop running to monitors since that raises the temp of my card about 10c.
Holy shit, thank you for that. I take it you have two top fans?
Very interesting, they found that the cooler worked BETTER as an exhaust in a case with just a front intake. I think, for my purposes, I'm going to run a front intake, bottom intake and the H70 as an exhaust. I feel pretty good about that and if I need to get crazy and put in some top or side fans, well the case can handle that, but keeping the top and side closed up seems like will be better acoustically. It's a place to start, and I can experiment a bit.
How do the two H70 fans connect together? I'm assuming they don't run on discreet fan headers. Do the H70 fans and the pump get ganged into the CPU fan header or something?
EDIT: Also, can you split PWM fans with a passive splitter or do you need one that taps the power supply? That may be a stupid question, but I am asking it anyway.
The answer to your EDIT question is: both. Depending on the number of headers offered by the splitter, there are passive and "active" ones. If using passive, make sure you're staying under the max amperage the fan header is rated for.
I've managed to solve all my problems except one; my HDD isn't showing up. It's there in the BIOS, was there on Win 7 installation and if I right click my C drive and go to hardware it's listed, but I can't do anything with it?
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
don't need Win 7 already have the license. I dropped to an i3 from an i5 and lowered graphic from 7850 to a gtx 560 for a total of 1069.90
think we could trim anywhere else? my guess is probably the mobo, but my friend liked the future-proofing z77 plus the wifi. also is there a better graphics card in the price range?
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
don't need Win 7 already have the license. I dropped to an i3 from an i5 and lowered graphic from 7850 to a gtx 560 for a total of 1069.90
think we could trim anywhere else? my guess is probably the mobo, but my friend liked the future-proofing z77 plus the wifi. also is there a better graphics card in the price range?
You could buy a cheaper case (NZXT Gamma or Source 210) and spend $30 less on the PSU by running a Neo Eco 520W. As far as future proofing goes, Z77 is nice, I guess, but someone who you have to convince not to buy an iMac doesn't seem like the type to OC, and if he's already sunk $120.00 into the CPU, I doubt he'd be willing to go for $200 more any time soon. The next procs from Intel won't be on 1155, so unless the plan is to upgrade well down the road, I think he'd be better served with the i5-2300, a more basic (or at least cheaper) motherboard, and a wireless adapter. If you do it right, you save money, and I'd say at worst you break even.
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
don't need Win 7 already have the license. I dropped to an i3 from an i5 and lowered graphic from 7850 to a gtx 560 for a total of 1069.90
think we could trim anywhere else? my guess is probably the mobo, but my friend liked the future-proofing z77 plus the wifi. also is there a better graphics card in the price range?
You could buy a cheaper case (NZXT Gamma or Source 210) and spend $30 less on the PSU by running a Neo Eco 520W. As far as future proofing goes, Z77 is nice, I guess, but someone who you have to convince not to buy an iMac doesn't seem like the type to OC, and if he's already sunk $120.00 into the CPU, I doubt he'd be willing to go for $200 more any time soon. The next procs from Intel won't be on 1155, so unless the plan is to upgrade well down the road, I think he'd be better served with the i5-2300, a more basic (or at least cheaper) motherboard, and a wireless adapter. If you do it right, you save money, and I'd say at worst you break even.
He has no problem spending more, definitely not OCing though. Is there a difference between the i5-2300 and 2310 for the same price? I see one is 2.8 and one is 2.9. I'll look for some more mobos, I agree $199 is steep, it was also late last night when I looked, kind of got lazy.
So I'm reading the damn manual on the Corsair H70 Core (haven't bought any parts yet) and apparently Corsair suggest you mount the radiator fans on the back or top of the case as an intake. Bwaaaaaa? I can see how that would work for the cooler, I suppose, but that just seems like it's going to seriously fuck up the airflow in the case.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
I think having the H70 mounted as an exhaust only raises your temperature a degree or two, I seem to remember seeing articles saying it doesnt really matter, but you'll get slightly better performance if its an intake (at the expense of the temps for your other components).
The H80 probably is easier to mount, but I honestly dont remember having that much trouble with the H70.
Total side note, now that I can hear my video card fan Im tempted to stop running to monitors since that raises the temp of my card about 10c.
Holy shit, thank you for that. I take it you have two top fans?
Very interesting, they found that the cooler worked BETTER as an exhaust in a case with just a front intake. I think, for my purposes, I'm going to run a front intake, bottom intake and the H70 as an exhaust. I feel pretty good about that and if I need to get crazy and put in some top or side fans, well the case can handle that, but keeping the top and side closed up seems like will be better acoustically. It's a place to start, and I can experiment a bit.
How do the two H70 fans connect together? I'm assuming they don't run on discreet fan headers. Do the H70 fans and the pump get ganged into the CPU fan header or something?
EDIT: Also, can you split PWM fans with a passive splitter or do you need one that taps the power supply? That may be a stupid question, but I am asking it anyway.
The answer to your EDIT question is: both. Depending on the number of headers offered by the splitter, there are passive and "active" ones. If using passive, make sure you're staying under the max amperage the fan header is rated for.
I'm trying to find what the specs for the normal case fan headers on the P8Z77-V but I can only find the CPU fan specs, which is kind of a bummer. Is there an average spec?
After Newegging around I sort of deduced that active headers tend to be 3+ fans, I'm just talking about plugging two fans into one header, and since I seem unable to find many active Y-combiner PWM cables I'm going to assume that in most cases the header can support the fans.
EDIT: Ah, so I hadn't actually checked the amp draw of the fans until just now and it's like .18 amps. So I guess the 1amp rating on the CPU fan headers must be really high, and I'm safe to Y-split.
So if I get the M4 would I be able to RAID 0(Stripe) it with a Samsung 830 256GB that I just bought for my new build or would I likely run into problems that way?
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
So if I get the M4 would I be able to RAID 0(Stripe) it with a Samsung 830 256GB that I just bought for my new build or would I likely run into problems that way?
Yeah, you can. If they are slightly different total sizes, it will just strip against the smaller of the discs, effectively not using a small portion of the other (this is assuming the total sizes are actually different).
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
don't need Win 7 already have the license. I dropped to an i3 from an i5 and lowered graphic from 7850 to a gtx 560 for a total of 1069.90
think we could trim anywhere else? my guess is probably the mobo, but my friend liked the future-proofing z77 plus the wifi. also is there a better graphics card in the price range?
You could buy a cheaper case (NZXT Gamma or Source 210) and spend $30 less on the PSU by running a Neo Eco 520W. As far as future proofing goes, Z77 is nice, I guess, but someone who you have to convince not to buy an iMac doesn't seem like the type to OC, and if he's already sunk $120.00 into the CPU, I doubt he'd be willing to go for $200 more any time soon. The next procs from Intel won't be on 1155, so unless the plan is to upgrade well down the road, I think he'd be better served with the i5-2300, a more basic (or at least cheaper) motherboard, and a wireless adapter. If you do it right, you save money, and I'd say at worst you break even.
Even that GTX560 is going to be so much more powerful than that 6750Mobile that the iMac is configured with, not to mention having the OS installed on an SSD is going to be a much better user experience than the Mac. The processor is also a big step up with the 2500k, plus overclocking potential. I do love the iMac screens though, that 23in Asus monitor is a bit of a step down.
May the wombat of happiness snuffle through your underbrush.
So if I get the M4 would I be able to RAID 0(Stripe) it with a Samsung 830 256GB that I just bought for my new build or would I likely run into problems that way?
Yeah, you can. If they are slightly different total sizes, it will just strip against the smaller of the discs, effectively not using a small portion of the other (this is assuming the total sizes are actually different).
Can hardware RAID affect TRIM? Especially since you are talking about TRIM across two different drives. That was the thing I was wondering about...
Edit: I'm reading that TRIM isn't supported under RAID0 and that you can't update firmware on RAID0 SSD drives... So scratch that...
So if I get the M4 would I be able to RAID 0(Stripe) it with a Samsung 830 256GB that I just bought for my new build or would I likely run into problems that way?
Yeah, you can. If they are slightly different total sizes, it will just strip against the smaller of the discs, effectively not using a small portion of the other (this is assuming the total sizes are actually different).
Can hardware RAID affect TRIM? Especially since you are talking about TRIM across two different drives. That was the thing I was wondering about...
Edit: I'm reading that TRIM isn't supported under RAID0 and that you can't update firmware on RAID0 SSD drives... So scratch that...
I didn't know all that. Good to know. Never tried to RAID SSD's.
Posts
Yeah, I bought it thinking a built in Windows XP would let me run legacy programs only to find out
EDIT: Also, the GTX 690 is going for $1200 on Newegg and is already sold out. What the fuck people.
1. I couldn't seat my cooler (CM Hyper TX3 Evo) on my 3570k even though it should be compatible?
2. I keep getting a CPU fan error on startup with the standard cooler.
3. GPU not recognised but fans are working
4. The usual SSD management questions
Sorry this is a bit useless but frankly it's 3:30am and I've been working on this thing for five hours. Maybe I'll be more coherent in the morning (also pics, I know y'all love those).
I pretty much only use my desktop as a dumping ground for unsorted downloads. Otherwise it is empty other than my recycle bin.
Is there a way to move the desktop onto a second drive rather than my windows drive, seeing as that drive is my smallest one.
I really would like my desktop to point at my 2tb drive, as that is the best place for me to put stupid crap that the internet keeps offering up for my entertainment.
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
i put this together: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=22228207 or http://imgur.com/kANME
it's 1234.90 - any way to knock off $200 without much compromise? There will be no OC'ing so i figure a good i3, just don't know which. could probably also lower the psu and mobo.
Your desktop is actually a folder in your User folder. The easiest way to do this is to move the entire User structure to a second drive. I'm not sure you can just move the desktop portion, though it may be possible with copious registry hacking.
Can't see whatever was supposed to be there. That said, I'm assuming that's the small iMac. Even if you only have 1000.00 to budget for a full system, including monitor, I think you can do better performance wise.
As for Windows 7 Pro, if you're going to or already have 32GB of RAM, then it matters. Home Premium addresses a max of 16GB.
Also, Windows enables TRIM, disables defragging, and moves the
Battle.net
This post is like those diary entries you find in video games where they just cut off mid-sentence.
RIP ALECTHAR
Or like a diary entry where the writer is half asleep when he pulls the trigger on a post.
Windows 7 enables TRIM and disables defragging. Page file changing, which isn't hugely important, isn't done automatically, and I don't remember if indexing is. I don't have it on at all, and can't remember if I did that or Windows did.
Battle.net
I believe it is actually just a modified version of Microsoft Virtual PC with a standard XP image baked into it. Not eminently useful, but actually could probably play some ancient games.
@emp123 how did you mount your H70 in your R3 and how'd you configure your fans?
I was hoping I wouldn't need to get side or top fans going if I could help it, but if I'm going to go with the Corsair it sounds like I need one or the other (or both?). I know that to some extent, airflow planning ahead of time isn't necessarily as productive as problem solving with live components but if anyone wants to help me take a crack at mapping the airflow for a Fractal R3 with a rear and front intake I'd be appreciative.
Air goes where you push it, so really, airflow in your case is more a matter of making sure fresh air is coming in, and hot air is being exhausted. I mean, sure, people talk about turbulence, or pockets of hot air, but frankly I don't have a PhD in Fluid Dynamics so I don't really have shit to say about the way air will move in a case, I just know that there's not enough temperature swings going around that convective forces can overcome the action of case fans. I have an H60 in my CM 690 II mounted as an intake, and it's fine. Having an exhaust fan back their is mainly important because it helps exhaust air heated by the CPU cooler, so if you're intaking air over the radiator there, you don't need to worry about that. If you need to, add 1 or 2 top exhausts, I think the R3 supports that.
Also, I almost want to suggest that you just go with the H80. To me, the 12 bucks are worth it, because you get fans you could always use elsewhere, and I'd also rather blow my fucking brains out than mount one of those circular CPU blocks again.
Battle.net
They'd have to be extremely ancient because it doesn't support DirectX at all. And if they're that old, they're probably DOS games, in which case, Dosbox.
I think having the H70 mounted as an exhaust only raises your temperature a degree or two, I seem to remember seeing articles saying it doesnt really matter, but you'll get slightly better performance if its an intake (at the expense of the temps for your other components).
The H80 probably is easier to mount, but I honestly dont remember having that much trouble with the H70.
Total side note, now that I can hear my video card fan Im tempted to stop running to monitors since that raises the temp of my card about 10c.
Holy shit, thank you for that. I take it you have two top fans?
I think I discovered the review you were talking about: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1395/8/
Very interesting, they found that the cooler worked BETTER as an exhaust in a case with just a front intake. I think, for my purposes, I'm going to run a front intake, bottom intake and the H70 as an exhaust. I feel pretty good about that and if I need to get crazy and put in some top or side fans, well the case can handle that, but keeping the top and side closed up seems like will be better acoustically. It's a place to start, and I can experiment a bit.
How do the two H70 fans connect together? I'm assuming they don't run on discreet fan headers. Do the H70 fans and the pump get ganged into the CPU fan header or something?
EDIT: Also, can you split PWM fans with a passive splitter or do you need one that taps the power supply? That may be a stupid question, but I am asking it anyway.
Off the top of my head, you could go with a non-2500k if your not OCing it. Go with a different brand of PSU, a lower priced Mobo, and combo deal a few of the items.
Easy thing to do is when you add an item to your cart right below it says "Item xxxxx has been added to your cart" theres a combo deals available see all ###" and just page through what combos are around. You can save a couple of extra bucks on the items your already buying with that combo, but be aware it removes any promo codes so make sure the combo discount is great than the promo code.
My H70 came with mounting screws that were pretty long which I used to screw the fan closest to the case wall (so the left one) to the case and the waterblock and then I think it came with another 4 screws that may have been shorter that I used to screw the right fan into the waterblock.
Ah cool, that ASUS board has 2 CPU fan headers that are apparently 4-pin controllable, while the other 3 headers are 3 or 4 pin controllable. What I'm assuming this means is that if I plug the (I'm assuming) 3 pin pump into one of the CPU headers it will just run full blast. Are you supposed to modulate the speed of the pump or is it designed to just run as fast as possible?
The two CPU headers are rated at 1amp (12w), which I'm assuming is stated because it's lower than normal? Does this mean that putting the two H70 fans on a PWM splitter and sticking them on the other CPU header would be inadvisable?
Theoretically, if you could jury rig the H70 fan and radiator to be entirely outside of the case, and put another (outtake) fan where it would be, that would be the best of both worlds for cooling. But it would also look funny.
Yeah it's kind of an awkward airflow concept. Apparently, if you're using a blower-based video card cooler (which I will) there are also issues with hot air from the video card getting sucked into the radiator when it's acting as an intake, which further complicates the problem. To me, it seems like if you can get air flowing well enough in the case, it's probably an over-all win to just have the radiator exhaust the heat out of the case. It may take some experimenting. Just need to figure out how I'm going to hook all the fans up.
e: in a modern rig the two things that are dumping a ton of heat into the case are the GPU and the CPU, so since you're running a blower card that will be mostly exhausting it's waste heat out the back anyway I don't think your internal temps will be too atrocious.
The answer to your EDIT question is: both. Depending on the number of headers offered by the splitter, there are passive and "active" ones. If using passive, make sure you're staying under the max amperage the fan header is rated for.
Battle.net
E: Mischief managed, it seems.
I'll go component by component:
Case - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131820
VPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130660
PSU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
CPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115077
RAM -http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
SSD OS - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233223
HDD - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
LCD - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052
DVD - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
don't need Win 7 already have the license. I dropped to an i3 from an i5 and lowered graphic from 7850 to a gtx 560 for a total of 1069.90
think we could trim anywhere else? my guess is probably the mobo, but my friend liked the future-proofing z77 plus the wifi. also is there a better graphics card in the price range?
You could buy a cheaper case (NZXT Gamma or Source 210) and spend $30 less on the PSU by running a Neo Eco 520W. As far as future proofing goes, Z77 is nice, I guess, but someone who you have to convince not to buy an iMac doesn't seem like the type to OC, and if he's already sunk $120.00 into the CPU, I doubt he'd be willing to go for $200 more any time soon. The next procs from Intel won't be on 1155, so unless the plan is to upgrade well down the road, I think he'd be better served with the i5-2300, a more basic (or at least cheaper) motherboard, and a wireless adapter. If you do it right, you save money, and I'd say at worst you break even.
Battle.net
ASRock Z77 Extreme4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293
or
ASUS P8Z77-V LK
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837
But I think the build you have is pretty solid as is.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
He has no problem spending more, definitely not OCing though. Is there a difference between the i5-2300 and 2310 for the same price? I see one is 2.8 and one is 2.9. I'll look for some more mobos, I agree $199 is steep, it was also late last night when I looked, kind of got lazy.
I'm trying to find what the specs for the normal case fan headers on the P8Z77-V but I can only find the CPU fan specs, which is kind of a bummer. Is there an average spec?
After Newegging around I sort of deduced that active headers tend to be 3+ fans, I'm just talking about plugging two fans into one header, and since I seem unable to find many active Y-combiner PWM cables I'm going to assume that in most cases the header can support the fans.
EDIT: Ah, so I hadn't actually checked the amp draw of the fans until just now and it's like .18 amps. So I guess the 1amp rating on the CPU fan headers must be really high, and I'm safe to Y-split.
I'd bite, but I'm going to be upgrading my video card and HDD soon instead.
Don't assume bad intentions over neglect and misunderstanding.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Yeah, you can. If they are slightly different total sizes, it will just strip against the smaller of the discs, effectively not using a small portion of the other (this is assuming the total sizes are actually different).
Even that GTX560 is going to be so much more powerful than that 6750Mobile that the iMac is configured with, not to mention having the OS installed on an SSD is going to be a much better user experience than the Mac. The processor is also a big step up with the 2500k, plus overclocking potential. I do love the iMac screens though, that 23in Asus monitor is a bit of a step down.
Can hardware RAID affect TRIM? Especially since you are talking about TRIM across two different drives. That was the thing I was wondering about...
Edit: I'm reading that TRIM isn't supported under RAID0 and that you can't update firmware on RAID0 SSD drives... So scratch that...
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
I am super tempted to buy that, I just got a 256 Samsung 830 and it's like crack. Not sure how I ever used a computer before SSDs and 16 GB of RAM.
But my 560 Ti is being pushed a bit to the edge, could spend that money on a 2nd one for SLI... Why isn't there more money
I didn't know all that. Good to know. Never tried to RAID SSD's.
Gogo, purchase the hell out of a 256 GB m4 for that price.
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Intel-RST-SSD-TRIM-RAID,14048.html
GET ON IT INTEL I NEED TO SPEND MORE MONEY