Sulfur free is only an issue with rubber molds (silicone and urethane) - - BUT, clays which are used with sulfur clays should be considered sulfurated by exposure(so you'd want to quarantine that Monster Clay to be for latex mask work only, if that mold wall clay is a sulfur clay.)
Most oil clays that have sulfur in them will smell like it, but a clay that's been cross contaminated may not smell but will still cause problems. If you are interested in mold making in the full range of possible materials, it's good studio procedure to stick with sulfur free clays.
Alright, cool. I still have a whole other container of Monster Clay that I haven't touched, so I'll just keep that set aside if I ever decide to work with any other materials. This plasticine is just so much easier to work with than the cheap water based clay I used before.
Alright, cool. I still have a whole other container of Monster Clay that I haven't touched, so I'll just keep that set aside if I ever decide to work with any other materials. This plasticine is just so much easier to work with than the cheap water based clay I used before.
Water clay is a pain in the ass for mold walls. It shrinks as the clay dries out, and it doesn't have the tack that soft oil clay does. Do you know what brand it was?
this stuff. it's all the store was carrying at the time. I think now they have Paperclay as well.
oh, DAS is self hardening (it has a plasticizer in it which makes it rigid when it dries)
no wonder you were having trouble with the mold wall last time.
do you know the make or brand name on the oil clay?
It's "Harbutt's Plasticine" from Hobbycraft Canada. It's a bit on the soft side, but I have a bunch of extra EVA foam and other scraps lying around from the rest of the costume I'm building so I'm just gonna pile that around to reinforce it.
I can find almost no information on the composition of Harbutt's aside from one obscure bit of web ephemera which states Harbutt's Grey Modelling Plasticine is not sulfurated, so, I think you're in the clear. (And possibly sculpting with a legitimately vintage product. LOL)
I've found playing cards and other semi-flexible thin things work well for creating curved walls, in areas where you need the stiffness but relatively nimble construction.
All right, so, I've got my mask, flashing cut off, ready to dremel down the seam. But there is some patching that needs to be done. I wanted to make a paste out of cabosil and prosaide and use that for patching, but I only have like 2oz of prosaide and not enough time to buy more. Can I mix the cabosil with latex and get a similar result, or will it not adhere well to the already cured latex?
Figured I should update with the finished product:
spoiler'd for huge
It ended up being a rushed job at the end, but it turned out well enough to walk around comic con and die of heat exhaustion. The cabosil/latex mix worked to fill in and reinforce around the seams and then I had enough prosaide to mix and touch up the rest. I really, really need to get a decent airbrush and learn how to paint with it, though.
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Most oil clays that have sulfur in them will smell like it, but a clay that's been cross contaminated may not smell but will still cause problems. If you are interested in mold making in the full range of possible materials, it's good studio procedure to stick with sulfur free clays.
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
Do... Re... Mi... So... Fa.... Do... Re.... Do...
Forget it...
Water clay is a pain in the ass for mold walls. It shrinks as the clay dries out, and it doesn't have the tack that soft oil clay does. Do you know what brand it was?
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
this stuff. it's all the store was carrying at the time. I think now they have Paperclay as well.
Do... Re... Mi... So... Fa.... Do... Re.... Do...
Forget it...
oh, DAS is self hardening (it has a plasticizer in it which makes it rigid when it dries)
no wonder you were having trouble with the mold wall last time.
do you know the make or brand name on the oil clay?
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
Do... Re... Mi... So... Fa.... Do... Re.... Do...
Forget it...
I've found playing cards and other semi-flexible thin things work well for creating curved walls, in areas where you need the stiffness but relatively nimble construction.
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
Do... Re... Mi... So... Fa.... Do... Re.... Do...
Forget it...
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
spoiler'd for huge
It ended up being a rushed job at the end, but it turned out well enough to walk around comic con and die of heat exhaustion. The cabosil/latex mix worked to fill in and reinforce around the seams and then I had enough prosaide to mix and touch up the rest. I really, really need to get a decent airbrush and learn how to paint with it, though.
Do... Re... Mi... So... Fa.... Do... Re.... Do...
Forget it...