Or you can just do what I did on my ITX case and make all the fans intake and let the air find its own way out.
That's how the RVZ01 (and presumably the ML07) were made to work. All fans on intake with positive pressure forcing the air out through the vents on the sides of the chassis.
Rollers are red, chargers are blue....omae wa mou shindeiru
I imagine I could; I'm just really curious why the mobo isn't handling it on its own.
@Barrakketh, that's really good to know. I'll flip my top fan to do that. The quest for a super quiet HTPC continues...
XBL: Jhnny Cash PSN: Jhnny_Cash Steam ID: http://steamcommunity.com/id/hypephb 3DS: 0619-4582-9630 Nintendo Network ID: DBrickashaw
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
So my wife's computer isn't as stable as I thought. It's BSODed on her about 5-6 times. It seems to pretty consistently do it at or before the windows login, with only a couple instances being when she launches the first thing after booting (steam and firefox). Every single one of the dumps has a different code and almost all of them show different offending processes, which is usually not a great sign. One of them did look like an Nvidia driver, but that could be coincidence, and the driver is up-to-date. I've also had the UEFI lock up twice more, both times times before it even loads the UI for it.
On the plus side, it seems like once it's successfully booted and launched something, its been perfectly fine.
I installed the chipset driver, which I'd forgotten to do, and ran a few passes of MemTest. She needed to use the computer so I couldn't let it sit for an extended time. The passes were clean, doesn't seem to be any heat problems. It just randomly is bad.
Right now I'm looking for case and power supply recommendations and if I should be adding any additional cooling. I'm new to PC part picker, so bear with me if I'm missing out on putting anything essential in there.
Also am I going to have any major bottlenecks with what I've built so far? Am I cheaping out on anything, or are all these components in the same ballpark build quality wise?
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
So my wife's computer isn't as stable as I thought. It's BSODed on her about 5-6 times. It seems to pretty consistently do it at or before the windows login, with only a couple instances being when she launches the first thing after booting (steam and firefox). Every single one of the dumps has a different code and almost all of them show different offending processes, which is usually not a great sign. One of them did look like an Nvidia driver, but that could be coincidence, and the driver is up-to-date. I've also had the UEFI lock up twice more, both times times before it even loads the UI for it.
On the plus side, it seems like once it's successfully booted and launched something, its been perfectly fine.
I installed the chipset driver, which I'd forgotten to do, and ran a few passes of MemTest. She needed to use the computer so I couldn't let it sit for an extended time. The passes were clean, doesn't seem to be any heat problems. It just randomly is bad.
Try scanning the HDD with something like Crystaldiskinfo or HD Tune. Then maybe swap it out if you have a spare if it comes up clean but keeps crashing.
Right now I'm looking for case and power supply recommendations and if I should be adding any additional cooling. I'm new to PC part picker, so bear with me if I'm missing out on putting anything essential in there.
Also am I going to have any major bottlenecks with what I've built so far? Am I cheaping out on anything, or are all these components in the same ballpark build quality wise?
Since nobody has commented yet, it looks like a great build to me.
For a power supply, if you're not planning on SLI down the road something in the 530W+ range should be plenty. Something like a SSR-550RM should do the trick. You can spend a few more bucks to get a fully modular PSU if you'd like.
There are a ton of great case options especially if you're fine with the ATX size. I'm partial to the Fractal R4, but the Corsair 400, 500, and 600 series are great as well. You can really just find something you like the looks of and then read the reviews to see if it has good cable management options and isn't a pain to work on.
You can't overclock that CPU so there's no need for extra cooling, especially if you have a decent case.
I think that the internet has been for years on the path to creating what is essentially an electronic Necronomicon: A collection of blasphemous unrealities so perverse that to even glimpse at its contents, if but for a moment, is to irrevocably forfeit a portion of your sanity.
Xbox - PearlBlueS0ul, Steam
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
@Delmain thanks for the case recommendation, I think I may go with the NZXT once I can decide on a color scheme
@an_alt That PSU should cover my wattage, but I'm kinda half remembering someone in here stating that the higher a % of total output a PSU is supplying, the harder it will be working and the louder it will be. Also I may be looking to go SLI in the future to keep the machine relevant, so how high should I maybe shoot for?
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
The PSU power % thing was stated by Hsu in reference to my quest for silence; basically the gist of it is the higher your maximum wattage, the less your PSU has to work to supply the lower wattages. He was advocating going for as high as 750W, but someone smarter than me can give you a better recommendation-
XBL: Jhnny Cash PSN: Jhnny_Cash Steam ID: http://steamcommunity.com/id/hypephb 3DS: 0619-4582-9630 Nintendo Network ID: DBrickashaw
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
@Delmain thanks for the case recommendation, I think I may go with the NZXT once I can decide on a color scheme
@an_alt That PSU should cover my wattage, but I'm kinda half remembering someone in here stating that the higher a % of total output a PSU is supplying, the harder it will be working and the louder it will be. Also I may be looking to go SLI in the future to keep the machine relevant, so how high should I maybe shoot for?
Unless you want a dead quiet PC I wouldn't worry about noise from an efficient PSU too much. When your machine is going full out, every other fan is going to be up to speed as well.
I like to add about 15%-20% to the total power draw. I'm not sure if that applies to SLI'd systems as well, but if that card really pulls 250W that would be around 800-830W. Again, take that with a grain of salt until somebody with more (ie any) knowledge of running dual cards chimes in.
I think that the internet has been for years on the path to creating what is essentially an electronic Necronomicon: A collection of blasphemous unrealities so perverse that to even glimpse at its contents, if but for a moment, is to irrevocably forfeit a portion of your sanity.
Xbox - PearlBlueS0ul, Steam
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
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WearingglassesOf the friendly neighborhood varietyRegistered Userregular
Hey guys, I have a graphics card problem. Here are the facts:
My old HD 5570 Graphics card recently died. I had no complaints with the graphics quality of my games when I was using this card.
My monitor's max resolution is 1600 x 900.
My motherboard is an Asus P7H55-M, one of the old LGA1156 lines. My CPU is a lower-end i3.
My current PSU is a "Thermaltake 500" (although it only outputs 400w, I find that weird). It is bottom mounted.
My first option is a choice among a) an HD7750, b) an NVidia 650, or c) an R7 260x, depending on availability.
A friend of mine offered me his spare GTX 580, and advises me to just upgrade my PSU instead of buying a new graphics card.
The concerns I have with this are:
As it was, the power lines connecting to the area near the CPU had to go around / jump over the graphics card. The GTX580 might be too big for my setup.
I'm wondering about the cost effectiveness of the new card with regards to power consumption, given that it might be a bit overkill anyway with the games I play.
Assuming that those concerns are addressed, though, I'm inclined to take up his offer. a) If I buy a 650w PSU now, I'd be able to reuse it once I finally upgrade to a different mobo/CPU/gfx card eventually. b) a PSU is way cheaper than a graphics card, and I may still need to buy a new PSU anyway when I buy the HD7750 or the 260x or the 650.
i say go with the PSU. it's one more thing you won't need to replace when you eventually upgrade.
Registered just for the Mass Effect threads | Steam: click ^^^ | Origin: curlyhairedboy
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
A GTX580 is a reasonably powerful card, if a little power hungry and hot. A significant step up from a 5570, that's for sure!
So, spend some real money on a top tier power supply that will suffice for whatever single card build you could possibly desire in the future, and should also give a solid 7-10 years life, then you'll have one less part to buy when you do end up going for the full system build in a couple of years.
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WearingglassesOf the friendly neighborhood varietyRegistered Userregular
Thanks guys, I guess I'll go that route.
Can't ensure that I'll see that exact PSU model, but I am indeed targeting a good rated 650w PSU with some degree of modularity, either from SeaSonic, Antec, or a Corsair. I am somewhat worried about cable lengths, though.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The cables on my 760 watt SeaSonic X-series are heaps long. Plenty long enough for an E-ATX motherboard in a big case like a Corsair 900D.
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SnicketysnickThe Greatest Hype Man inWesterosRegistered Userregular
The other thing you can consider is an extension cable, I've got an 8-pin extension running in my current case which was well worth the couple of quid I paid for it in terms of making that particular bit of routing much easier.
Also meant that I could plug it in before mounting the motherboard, which was a hullva lot easier than working in that crowded space in the top left.
Finally decided to buy a new computer, I spent the better part of the week researching, designing and redesigning a desktop that would work well for not only gaming but also programing/scripting and occasionally rendering 3D models and HD video. I have been having trouble rendering videos of any significant length on my old laptop. Suffice to say that dog don't hunt.
After all of the time spent researching and building, on a whim I stop by Best Buy to see what my local store has in stock and I see this gem, open box special $1099.99.
I brought it home, dropped in 8GB of RAM and my 750GB HDD from my old laptop in while I wait for the 500GB SSD I ordered.
So far it has been great, it is not a light computer but for a 17" laptop it isn't obscenely heavy. I wasn't looking for an ultra portable as with my last laptop I greatly enjoyed having the ability to lay on my hammock or sit on the back deck and write some code or play some Civ V. It handles everything I have thrown at it on max settings and surprisingly it runs pretty quiet.
Anyways, as an impulse purchase with the only research being what I already knew and some quick google fu, I am greatly satisfied by this system and think I made the right choice, I am curious what other similar or better laptops are available in the $1,000 to $1,300 range?
If you have any complaints about this poster then feel free to: Иди на хуй, Сучьи
Steam, PSN, XBL, Xfire and everything else JamesDM
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Sir CarcassI have been shown the end of my worldRound Rock, TXRegistered Userregular
I'm playing around with upgrading my aging Phenom II system with a budget of about $850. This is what I came up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/SirCarcass/saved/zG848d Comments? Suggestions? I haven't really looked at PC parts since the Radeon 7000 series was brand new.
So my wife's computer isn't as stable as I thought. It's BSODed on her about 5-6 times. It seems to pretty consistently do it at or before the windows login, with only a couple instances being when she launches the first thing after booting (steam and firefox). Every single one of the dumps has a different code and almost all of them show different offending processes, which is usually not a great sign. One of them did look like an Nvidia driver, but that could be coincidence, and the driver is up-to-date. I've also had the UEFI lock up twice more, both times times before it even loads the UI for it.
On the plus side, it seems like once it's successfully booted and launched something, its been perfectly fine.
I installed the chipset driver, which I'd forgotten to do, and ran a few passes of MemTest. She needed to use the computer so I couldn't let it sit for an extended time. The passes were clean, doesn't seem to be any heat problems. It just randomly is bad.
Try scanning the HDD with something like Crystaldiskinfo or HD Tune. Then maybe swap it out if you have a spare if it comes up clean but keeps crashing.
The new SSD came up clean, as I mostly expected. If there's a problem with the controller or something I'm not sure how to test that. The old HDD had one of the SMART flags at caution level (reallocated sectors I think?) and chkdsk did find and fix a few errors on it. It's still got the system reserved partition on it from the original Windows install. Would the new install I did for the new SSD still be looking at that for anything?
I also solved the mystery of not being able to save her screenshots for FFXIV. There was a config with the path to the save directory, that had the actual full path in it (with the slightly different name of her profile from her old install) instead of just looking in whatever profile it was launched from.
RollerCoaster Tycoon is having a similar problem with it's saves (but it can actually see and load them, it just gripes), but I can't figure out why, cause I can't find a file anywhere where that's stored, and I did a full reinstall of the game from Steam.
Registered just for the Mass Effect threads | Steam: click ^^^ | Origin: curlyhairedboy
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WearingglassesOf the friendly neighborhood varietyRegistered Userregular
UPDATE:
Did the organ transplant this weekend. Installed the new PSU with little incident (the little hook to anchor the 24pin connector needs a bit deeper press than usual to catch), the GTX580 is snugly fit within the case, drivers were downloaded, installed, and as the succeeding restart show the Windows logo converging, it continues.... to nothing. I saw the "no signal" blink from the monitor, so I figured something went awry. So cables were removed, then reattached, then the PC restarted, still the same.
In the third time that happened, I was texting my friend, who was mostly my guide during the installation, when after almost a minute the "No Signal" disappeared and the logon screen showed up. Huh. Turns out the first time in driver installation that "dead time" was normal.
So now I'm the happy owner of a working PC once more. I don't have any games that will remotely tax the GTX 580, though. The latest game I'm playing is Sacred 2, and the unfortunate wedgie of the barely dressed Seraphim character isn't giving the graphics card any trouble.
Did the organ transplant this weekend. Installed the new PSU with little incident (the little hook to anchor the 24pin connector needs a bit deeper press than usual to catch), the GTX580 is snugly fit within the case, drivers were downloaded, installed, and as the succeeding restart show the Windows logo converging, it continues.... to nothing. I saw the "no signal" blink from the monitor, so I figured something went awry. So cables were removed, then reattached, then the PC restarted, still the same.
In the third time that happened, I was texting my friend, who was mostly my guide during the installation, when after almost a minute the "No Signal" disappeared and the logon screen showed up. Huh. Turns out the first time in driver installation that "dead time" was normal.
So now I'm the happy owner of a working PC once more. I don't have any games that will remotely tax the GTX 580, though. The latest game I'm playing is Sacred 2, and the unfortunate wedgie of the barely dressed Seraphim character isn't giving the graphics card any trouble.
What does Metro Last Light cost these days? Or Far Cry 3?
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WearingglassesOf the friendly neighborhood varietyRegistered Userregular
Haven't played the prequels to those, sadly. I still have a backlog of shit to go through before buying any more games, though yeah, none of those are graphics-taxing. I guess I'm not that into the big-budget games as much, nowadays?
Haven't played the prequels to those, sadly. I still have a backlog of shit to go through before buying any more games, though yeah, none of those are graphics-taxing. I guess I'm not that into the big-budget games as much, nowadays?
Far Cry 3 goes on sale pretty regularly and requires zero knowledge of the franchise since I'm pretty sure since Far Cry 2 they've had nothing to do with each other.
After all of the time spent researching and building, on a whim I stop by Best Buy to see what my local store has in stock and I see this gem, open box special $1099.99.
I brought it home, dropped in 8GB of RAM and my 750GB HDD from my old laptop in while I wait for the 500GB SSD I ordered.
So far it has been great, it is not a light computer but for a 17" laptop it isn't obscenely heavy. I wasn't looking for an ultra portable as with my last laptop I greatly enjoyed having the ability to lay on my hammock or sit on the back deck and write some code or play some Civ V. It handles everything I have thrown at it on max settings and surprisingly it runs pretty quiet.
Anyways, as an impulse purchase with the only research being what I already knew and some quick google fu, I am greatly satisfied by this system and think I made the right choice, I am curious what other similar or better laptops are available in the $1,000 to $1,300 range?
There's the Lenovo T50 but for what you paid, you got a great deal.
So now I'm the happy owner of a working PC once more. I don't have any games that will remotely tax the GTX 580, though. The latest game I'm playing is Sacred 2, and the unfortunate wedgie of the barely dressed Seraphim character isn't giving the graphics card any trouble.
Regarding the games issues, might I recommend (1) linking your Steam name in your sig to your Steam profile and (2) dropping by the Steam thread from time to time?
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Fucking Cassowarys.
I ended up committing cassowary genocide. Same with those damn giant lizards. Fuckers always sneaking up on me and chomping away half my health in the middle of a gunfight...
Posts
I imagine I could; I'm just really curious why the mobo isn't handling it on its own.
@Barrakketh, that's really good to know. I'll flip my top fan to do that. The quest for a super quiet HTPC continues...
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
On the plus side, it seems like once it's successfully booted and launched something, its been perfectly fine.
I installed the chipset driver, which I'd forgotten to do, and ran a few passes of MemTest. She needed to use the computer so I couldn't let it sit for an extended time. The passes were clean, doesn't seem to be any heat problems. It just randomly is bad.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/hyhLFT
Right now I'm looking for case and power supply recommendations and if I should be adding any additional cooling. I'm new to PC part picker, so bear with me if I'm missing out on putting anything essential in there.
Also am I going to have any major bottlenecks with what I've built so far? Am I cheaping out on anything, or are all these components in the same ballpark build quality wise?
Come Overwatch with meeeee
In my R4 case, I've noticed that the two non-3.0 USBs at the front usually require me to push too strong for comfort to get anything in them.
Try scanning the HDD with something like Crystaldiskinfo or HD Tune. Then maybe swap it out if you have a spare if it comes up clean but keeps crashing.
Since nobody has commented yet, it looks like a great build to me.
For a power supply, if you're not planning on SLI down the road something in the 530W+ range should be plenty. Something like a SSR-550RM should do the trick. You can spend a few more bucks to get a fully modular PSU if you'd like.
There are a ton of great case options especially if you're fine with the ATX size. I'm partial to the Fractal R4, but the Corsair 400, 500, and 600 series are great as well. You can really just find something you like the looks of and then read the reviews to see if it has good cable management options and isn't a pain to work on.
You can't overclock that CPU so there's no need for extra cooling, especially if you have a decent case.
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
it's prettttyyyy
Registered just for the Mass Effect threads | Steam: click ^^^ | Origin: curlyhairedboy
@an_alt That PSU should cover my wattage, but I'm kinda half remembering someone in here stating that the higher a % of total output a PSU is supplying, the harder it will be working and the louder it will be. Also I may be looking to go SLI in the future to keep the machine relevant, so how high should I maybe shoot for?
Come Overwatch with meeeee
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
Unless you want a dead quiet PC I wouldn't worry about noise from an efficient PSU too much. When your machine is going full out, every other fan is going to be up to speed as well.
I like to add about 15%-20% to the total power draw. I'm not sure if that applies to SLI'd systems as well, but if that card really pulls 250W that would be around 800-830W. Again, take that with a grain of salt until somebody with more (ie any) knowledge of running dual cards chimes in.
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
The concerns I have with this are:
Assuming that those concerns are addressed, though, I'm inclined to take up his offer. a) If I buy a 650w PSU now, I'd be able to reuse it once I finally upgrade to a different mobo/CPU/gfx card eventually. b) a PSU is way cheaper than a graphics card, and I may still need to buy a new PSU anyway when I buy the HD7750 or the 260x or the 650.
Your thoughts?
Registered just for the Mass Effect threads | Steam: click ^^^ | Origin: curlyhairedboy
So, spend some real money on a top tier power supply that will suffice for whatever single card build you could possibly desire in the future, and should also give a solid 7-10 years life, then you'll have one less part to buy when you do end up going for the full system build in a couple of years.
Can't ensure that I'll see that exact PSU model, but I am indeed targeting a good rated 650w PSU with some degree of modularity, either from SeaSonic, Antec, or a Corsair. I am somewhat worried about cable lengths, though.
Also meant that I could plug it in before mounting the motherboard, which was a hullva lot easier than working in that crowded space in the top left.
D3 Steam #TeamTangent STO
After all of the time spent researching and building, on a whim I stop by Best Buy to see what my local store has in stock and I see this gem, open box special $1099.99.
I brought it home, dropped in 8GB of RAM and my 750GB HDD from my old laptop in while I wait for the 500GB SSD I ordered.
So far it has been great, it is not a light computer but for a 17" laptop it isn't obscenely heavy. I wasn't looking for an ultra portable as with my last laptop I greatly enjoyed having the ability to lay on my hammock or sit on the back deck and write some code or play some Civ V. It handles everything I have thrown at it on max settings and surprisingly it runs pretty quiet.
Anyways, as an impulse purchase with the only research being what I already knew and some quick google fu, I am greatly satisfied by this system and think I made the right choice, I am curious what other similar or better laptops are available in the $1,000 to $1,300 range?
Steam, PSN, XBL, Xfire and everything else JamesDM
The new SSD came up clean, as I mostly expected. If there's a problem with the controller or something I'm not sure how to test that. The old HDD had one of the SMART flags at caution level (reallocated sectors I think?) and chkdsk did find and fix a few errors on it. It's still got the system reserved partition on it from the original Windows install. Would the new install I did for the new SSD still be looking at that for anything?
I also solved the mystery of not being able to save her screenshots for FFXIV. There was a config with the path to the save directory, that had the actual full path in it (with the slightly different name of her profile from her old install) instead of just looking in whatever profile it was launched from.
RollerCoaster Tycoon is having a similar problem with it's saves (but it can actually see and load them, it just gripes), but I can't figure out why, cause I can't find a file anywhere where that's stored, and I did a full reinstall of the game from Steam.
SSD/HDD: That's a good question. Wipe out the old HDD and see what happens? Or just unplug it for a bit.
Registered just for the Mass Effect threads | Steam: click ^^^ | Origin: curlyhairedboy
Did the organ transplant this weekend. Installed the new PSU with little incident (the little hook to anchor the 24pin connector needs a bit deeper press than usual to catch), the GTX580 is snugly fit within the case, drivers were downloaded, installed, and as the succeeding restart show the Windows logo converging, it continues.... to nothing. I saw the "no signal" blink from the monitor, so I figured something went awry. So cables were removed, then reattached, then the PC restarted, still the same.
In the third time that happened, I was texting my friend, who was mostly my guide during the installation, when after almost a minute the "No Signal" disappeared and the logon screen showed up. Huh. Turns out the first time in driver installation that "dead time" was normal.
So now I'm the happy owner of a working PC once more.
What does Metro Last Light cost these days? Or Far Cry 3?
Far Cry 3 goes on sale pretty regularly and requires zero knowledge of the franchise since I'm pretty sure since Far Cry 2 they've had nothing to do with each other.
There's the Lenovo T50 but for what you paid, you got a great deal.
@Wearingglasses, congrats on the working rig!
Regarding the games issues, might I recommend (1) linking your Steam name in your sig to your Steam profile and (2) dropping by the Steam thread from time to time?
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2
I ended up committing cassowary genocide. Same with those damn giant lizards. Fuckers always sneaking up on me and chomping away half my health in the middle of a gunfight...
http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail/July-0-2014/SSD-spotlights_29/index-landing.html?nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL072914&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL072914-_-EMC-072914-Index-_-E0-_-PromoWord&et_cid=9914&et_rid=191380
Wow. After the promo code (EMCPCHA23) the SAMSUNG 840 EVO 500GB SSD is only $224.99.
Nice. (Also about $100 less than I paid for it back in Januray which was a great price at the time.)
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2