So my second monitor (and speaker set - an 8-year old television) gave up the ghost. Google says the particular problem can be fixed by purchasing a component, but I'm considering just stretching the budget to get a new monitor instead.
Looking at pcpartpicker, I made some off-the-cuff choices. Budget is probably the least negotiable item - I might go as high as $250 - but I don't really know what to look for.
but I wanted to poke my head in and find out - did I accidentally exclude (or simply gloss over) anything significantly better?
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Metzger MeisterIt Gets Worsebefore it gets any better.Registered Userregular
edited August 2015
If you're looking for really good bang for your buck, I'd also recommend checking out Vizio. They're hands-down the best "budget" tv brand and their smaller televisions (which is what I myself use as a monitor currently) have as good of a picture as more expensive brands that are similarly sized, at least in my opinion.
edit: full disclosure, i totally love Vizio as a brand and recommend them to everyone so i might be a little biased.
Metzger Meister on
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ResIpsaLoquiturNot a grammar nazi, just alt-write.Registered Userregular
Need a quick spot of advice.
I've got two, mismatched, old 20ish inch monitors, and I'm replacing them. I've been going back and forth between 2 23-24 in or a single 27 (desk size would make 2 27s pretty prohibitive. This is for my home (read: gaming) machine, and I don't have much of a budget (monitor, HDD (old-ish 500gig platter, and video card (Radeon 6770)) are needing upgrades. I'm running an i5 4430 and plenty of ram, so those aren't issues atm.
I do like the 2 monitor set up, and occasionally use it to watch streaming video while playing games or otherwise generally browsing, but I have a tablet I could use for that, too.
I saw this sale: 27" LG monitor, 1080p, IPS + 128 gig SSD for 199 and wonder if it is a good enough deal to satisfy my short term needs for both the monitor and SSD. They're both pretty low end, so far as I can tell, but they might serve my purposes. I'd like to avoid having to do a clean install of Windows, so I'd be using the SSD just for games. Thoughts?
League of Legends: MichaelDominick; Blizzard(NA): MichaelD#11402; Steam ID: MichaelDominick
You can use one of your current smaller monitors as a secondary to go with your large primary, I did that for years due to desk space.
You're much better off putting windows on the SSD.
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
edited September 2015
I say go with a better case and PSU. They're the only remotely "future-proof" components in any given build. A case like the Fractal Design Define R4/5, the NZXT S340, or one of Corsair's nicer cases like the 500R will serve you better in the long run. A full-modular, 80 Plus Gold PSU will save you a bit of money in the long run, along with running cooler and being easier to work with. I indicated a good one in my list, but there are tons of others.
You can use one of your current smaller monitors as a secondary to go with your large primary, I did that for years due to desk space.
You're much better off putting windows on the SSD.
How tough would that be to do, given that I'm windows 10 upgraded from 8.1? Should I be able to download 10 again from scratch if I still have the 8.1 product key?
League of Legends: MichaelDominick; Blizzard(NA): MichaelD#11402; Steam ID: MichaelDominick
If you have already upgraded to 10 you can just plug in the SSD and install windows 10 fresh on it. I've used the USB installer to do that on my old mans computer. You won't need a key since your system is already activated and you're not changing the motherboard. Your PC will already be on file.
I've got two, mismatched, old 20ish inch monitors, and I'm replacing them. I've been going back and forth between 2 23-24 in or a single 27 (desk size would make 2 27s pretty prohibitive. This is for my home (read: gaming) machine, and I don't have much of a budget (monitor, HDD (old-ish 500gig platter, and video card (Radeon 6770)) are needing upgrades. I'm running an i5 4430 and plenty of ram, so those aren't issues atm.
I do like the 2 monitor set up, and occasionally use it to watch streaming video while playing games or otherwise generally browsing, but I have a tablet I could use for that, too.
I saw this sale: 27" LG monitor, 1080p, IPS + 128 gig SSD for 199 and wonder if it is a good enough deal to satisfy my short term needs for both the monitor and SSD. They're both pretty low end, so far as I can tell, but they might serve my purposes. I'd like to avoid having to do a clean install of Windows, so I'd be using the SSD just for games. Thoughts?
It's also worth looking into what Monoprice is offering. They have very competitive prices for quality products.
Funny you post that since Maximum PC just posted this year's Dream Machine. Only thing that doesn't fit in your rules is that it puts in 4x 6TB drives.
My lefty Deathadder, purchased in 2010, may be dying. Razer's warranty is only 2 years. On one hand, this makes me angry, 'cause you'd think it'd be longer, right? On the other hand, $50 for 5 years of mousing is probably nothing to get angry about.
Do other mice manufacturers have similar warranty lengths? I'm a lefty with big hands, so Razer's really the only game in town for me.
Has anyone seen anything official about when the non-K Skylake processors will be released? All I can find online are references to either "September" or "September 1" that don't seem to be backed up by anything.
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
NCIX mentioned that it should be today some time, though I haven't done any looking around... Obviously you haven't seen any announcements... Odd.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Yeah... but we're already going to pay a premium thanks to the crap Canadian dollar, and then the K will require an aftermarket cooler. Not huge bucks, I know, but given that we have zero interest in overclocking, why throw away ~$70?
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Yeah... but we're already going to pay a premium thanks to the crap Canadian dollar, and then the K will require an aftermarket cooler. Not huge bucks, I know, but given that we have zero interest in overclocking, why throw away ~$70?
Even that's being charitable, I'm betting. I doubt the difference will only be $30 on the SKU for us. I also forgot the lack of a cooler, which is a really good point.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Yeah... but we're already going to pay a premium thanks to the crap Canadian dollar, and then the K will require an aftermarket cooler. Not huge bucks, I know, but given that we have zero interest in overclocking, why throw away ~$70?
Even that's being charitable, I'm betting. I doubt the difference will only be $30 on the SKU for us. I also forgot the lack of a cooler, which is a really good point.
I totally agree. Going strictly by Newegg US pricing, the largest price difference between a non-K i5 SKU and a 4690K is around 50 USD. When factoring in the slightly higher price of a Skylake i5-K, along with an aftermarket cooler, you're talking about 80ish USD on the low end, and obviously that's not nothing. Considering the CAD and the vagaries of international pricing, you could be talking about an even more significant difference.
I understand the enthusiast tendency to be somewhat dismissive of a nearly $200 CPU that you can't overclock, but $80 buys a lot these days, and the non-K i5s are incredibly capable procs.
Yeah... but we're already going to pay a premium thanks to the crap Canadian dollar, and then the K will require an aftermarket cooler. Not huge bucks, I know, but given that we have zero interest in overclocking, why throw away ~$70?
Oh man I forgot the skylake K's wont' be coming with a cooler. That's still bullshit.
I'm sure they have stats that say 95% or something of people who buy an unlocked CPU also buy an aftermarket cooler at the same time. Hell, I only have a i5-4430 and I still bought an aftermarket, mostly because I wanted something quiet.
Having to replace a defective SSD (thanks, Crucial), I'd like to know: do people still swear by Arconis True Image for cloning your boot drive into another drive?
The last I time I did this was five years ago--if there's a free open-source alternative people prefer, I'm happy to use it, but otherwise, my last experience with Arconis was good enough that I'd just use that again.
personally, when I need to replace my boot drive, I take the opportunity to do a new install of Windows.
Actually, my boot drive works fine. It's my secondary SSD that's futzed up--the replacement I'm getting, a Samsung 850, is faster than either.
So my plan is to transfer my OS to the Samsung, then transfer my secondary game drive to the Crucial that works fine. And then take out my anger on the Crucial drive that doesn't work.
Also, I have zero problems with Windows 8.1 right now, so I can't really be bothered. Except for the disconnection problems (which are why I'm replacing the drives), I get no BSOD or crashing presently.
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acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
I'm sure they have stats that say 95% or something of people who buy an unlocked CPU also buy an aftermarket cooler at the same time. Hell, I only have a i5-4430 and I still bought an aftermarket, mostly because I wanted something quiet.
the fun part is when your aftermarket cooler's pump fails and you're left with a brick since you don't have a stock cooler to put on while you wait for a new cooler.
You'll be fine using Samsung's free drive imaging program. If it doesn't come with the SSD, check Samsung's website.
Actually, it works pretty great (I'm running from my Samsung SSD right now), but it only works on Samsung products as far as I can tell. I'm being extra cautious and making a big backup image, but I also have to migrate from one Crucial to another.
Hm that's odd. I thought it let me copy from my old non-Samsung platter drives to my 840 EVOs. I'd assume it would work for both. Does Crucial have an imaging utility for their SSDs?
Hm that's odd. I thought it let me copy from my old non-Samsung platter drives to my 840 EVOs. I'd assume it would work for both. Does Crucial have an imaging utility for their SSDs?
I may have been unclear--the disk management software only lets you copy things to other Samsung drives (the origin drive, naturally, can be non-Samsung itself). It's no good for, say, copying between two Crucial drives. I ended up using AOMEI Backupper--mostly because it was free and generally not totally hated, and it appears to have done the trick. I'm going to keep my root drive backup (a gigantic 320 GB file on--that's why we need platter drives, mofos) for another day or two, but everything looks fine otherwise.
I did, however, lose the small recovery partition that came with my PC from NCIX (when they installed and formatted Windows 8.1 Pro before taking out the GPU and shipping it to me), but I wasn't completely sure how to use it, and never had to rely on that sort of functionality (I used System Restore a grand total of once during its heyday). Probably not a major loss.
I hate to ask cause I'd rathe have a build to post and see what you'd change out. I am looking to build basically a bare bones pc wth an i5 and 8gb of ram. A ssd and a 1tb hd or so. Pretty bare bones. What would you recomend if you were building one yourself? It's for music recording, I've mentioned before. On board video is fine. I'll post my shopping cart when I get home that I've been thinking about.
Posts
Looks great, but if your budget is $1000, now it looks like you have the room for a 980.
Gotta love spending other people's money.
Edit: Added quote for new page continuity.
YOUR PIZZA ROLLS ARE NONE OF MY CONCERN.
He mentioned he found one laying around, so I think it's just going to get reused and the money can be re-allocated.
Looking at pcpartpicker, I made some off-the-cuff choices. Budget is probably the least negotiable item - I might go as high as $250 - but I don't really know what to look for.
Came up with a few possibilities:
* AOC i2367Fh 60Hz 23.0"
* Dell P2214H 60Hz 21.5"
* Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0"
* Acer G227HQLbi 60Hz 21.5"
but I wanted to poke my head in and find out - did I accidentally exclude (or simply gloss over) anything significantly better?
http://www.vizio.com/tvs.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw9o-vBRCO0OLi2PfPkI8BEiQA8pdF4MJnyLh7dCowBsbKuhZwESV3hX5bLEslZTB9RmEDl8oaAs7G8P8HAQ&pcrid=95604154748&screen_size_range=759
edit: full disclosure, i totally love Vizio as a brand and recommend them to everyone so i might be a little biased.
I've got two, mismatched, old 20ish inch monitors, and I'm replacing them. I've been going back and forth between 2 23-24 in or a single 27 (desk size would make 2 27s pretty prohibitive. This is for my home (read: gaming) machine, and I don't have much of a budget (monitor, HDD (old-ish 500gig platter, and video card (Radeon 6770)) are needing upgrades. I'm running an i5 4430 and plenty of ram, so those aren't issues atm.
I do like the 2 monitor set up, and occasionally use it to watch streaming video while playing games or otherwise generally browsing, but I have a tablet I could use for that, too.
I saw this sale: 27" LG monitor, 1080p, IPS + 128 gig SSD for 199 and wonder if it is a good enough deal to satisfy my short term needs for both the monitor and SSD. They're both pretty low end, so far as I can tell, but they might serve my purposes. I'd like to avoid having to do a clean install of Windows, so I'd be using the SSD just for games. Thoughts?
I hadn't considered replacing it with another TV, but I'm kinda tickled by the idea of picking up that Vizio 24" Smart TV.
Still leaning towards a traditional monitor, but I'm definitely enticed by that vizio...
You're much better off putting windows on the SSD.
Battle.net
Since you're below budget, get a SeaSonic PSU and a bit nicer case. Those can last for years through multiple builds.
How tough would that be to do, given that I'm windows 10 upgraded from 8.1? Should I be able to download 10 again from scratch if I still have the 8.1 product key?
It's also worth looking into what Monoprice is offering. They have very competitive prices for quality products.
Was running errands this morning and ended up buying that Vizio
Try and build as expensive a computer as you can, because who doesn't need dual Blu-Ray burners and four 12GB Titan X cards?
Rules:
Reasons:
I think I was up to $15,026 without even really trying.
Go!
EDIT: http://www.maximumpc.com/dream-machine-2/
Do other mice manufacturers have similar warranty lengths? I'm a lefty with big hands, so Razer's really the only game in town for me.
Inquisitor77: Rius, you are Sisyphus and melee Wizard is your boulder
Tube: This must be what it felt like to be an Iraqi when Saddam was killed
Bookish Stickers - Mrs. Rius' Etsy shop with bumper stickers and vinyl decals.
Even that's being charitable, I'm betting. I doubt the difference will only be $30 on the SKU for us. I also forgot the lack of a cooler, which is a really good point.
I totally agree. Going strictly by Newegg US pricing, the largest price difference between a non-K i5 SKU and a 4690K is around 50 USD. When factoring in the slightly higher price of a Skylake i5-K, along with an aftermarket cooler, you're talking about 80ish USD on the low end, and obviously that's not nothing. Considering the CAD and the vagaries of international pricing, you could be talking about an even more significant difference.
I understand the enthusiast tendency to be somewhat dismissive of a nearly $200 CPU that you can't overclock, but $80 buys a lot these days, and the non-K i5s are incredibly capable procs.
Battle.net
36 CPU cores? Half a terabyte of RAM? I'm just getting started here...
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MkprjX
Oh man I forgot the skylake K's wont' be coming with a cooler. That's still bullshit.
The last I time I did this was five years ago--if there's a free open-source alternative people prefer, I'm happy to use it, but otherwise, my last experience with Arconis was good enough that I'd just use that again.
Actually, my boot drive works fine. It's my secondary SSD that's futzed up--the replacement I'm getting, a Samsung 850, is faster than either.
So my plan is to transfer my OS to the Samsung, then transfer my secondary game drive to the Crucial that works fine. And then take out my anger on the Crucial drive that doesn't work.
Also, I have zero problems with Windows 8.1 right now, so I can't really be bothered. Except for the disconnection problems (which are why I'm replacing the drives), I get no BSOD or crashing presently.
the fun part is when your aftermarket cooler's pump fails and you're left with a brick since you don't have a stock cooler to put on while you wait for a new cooler.
Actually, it works pretty great (I'm running from my Samsung SSD right now), but it only works on Samsung products as far as I can tell. I'm being extra cautious and making a big backup image, but I also have to migrate from one Crucial to another.
I may have been unclear--the disk management software only lets you copy things to other Samsung drives (the origin drive, naturally, can be non-Samsung itself). It's no good for, say, copying between two Crucial drives. I ended up using AOMEI Backupper--mostly because it was free and generally not totally hated, and it appears to have done the trick. I'm going to keep my root drive backup (a gigantic 320 GB file on--that's why we need platter drives, mofos) for another day or two, but everything looks fine otherwise.
I did, however, lose the small recovery partition that came with my PC from NCIX (when they installed and formatted Windows 8.1 Pro before taking out the GPU and shipping it to me), but I wasn't completely sure how to use it, and never had to rely on that sort of functionality (I used System Restore a grand total of once during its heyday). Probably not a major loss.