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Lawnmower Help
PizzleStixx
Parp?Burnett? Really? UghRegistered User regular
Parp?Burnett? Really? UghRegistered User regular
So I bought a home last year (yay), so it's come with a whole host of issues.
One of which is dealing with a lawnmower. Now I know I should have emptied the tank before the winter but I never got to it now it won't start. So after doing some cursory research I saw that I need fuel stabilizer and have to run the gas through the mower and then drain it.
I think?
If someone could help that would be great. Am I supposed to add the stabilizer directly into the mower since gas is in there?
One of which is dealing with a lawnmower. Now I know I should have emptied the tank before the winter but I never got to it now it won't start. So after doing some cursory research I saw that I need fuel stabilizer and have to run the gas through the mower and then drain it.
I think?
If someone could help that would be great. Am I supposed to add the stabilizer directly into the mower since gas is in there?
0
Posts
Though I never have drained my mower in winter. I just keep stabilizer in the fuel and that's it. First start is always a bit tricky but it runs smooth after that. But I do have a Honda Motor in it.
@PizzleStixx
Quick answer to your question: NO
Long Detailed answer to your question.....
Fuel stabilizer is to keep fuel from oxidizing while the mower is in storage over the winter... there's not point in using it now. IF it's a fuel problem, then that fuel is already bad.
Your best bet is to drain the fuel and oil and start from scratch with whatever fuel/oil the manual recommends. If you don't have one a quick google check by make/model# should let you find a pdf version of the manual somewhere.
It also depends on what type of motor your lawnmower has, a 4-stroke or 2-stroke (or 4 cycle/2 cycle). My current mower is a 4-stroke and has separate fuel and oil, while others are a 2-stroke that use mixed fuel. You'll need to know that... it's pretty important.
4-stroke oil is only added into the crankcase of the engine (in a separate oil spout/dipstick tube, like your car). 4-stroke oil is never added to the gasoline. Gas is added into the fuel tank by itself.
2-stroke engines use a fuel oil mix that's mixed by first adding your 2-stroke oil to a fuel can then adding the appropriate amount of gas (usually per the instructions on the oil bottle) to get the right mix BEFORE you put it in your mower (or other gas engine). Hardware stores will have 2-stroke fuel... just ask staff what you need and make sure you have your make/model in hand so they can find you what you need.
Lastly, there's two methods for draining oil...
1) Siphon/Pump Method: Use a siphon, such as an Arnold Siphon Pump (home depot has them, they're inexpensive), to remove the oil directly from the oil fill tube and drain it into a container for disposal. (Don't dump it down your storm drain!)
2) Tilt Method: Tilt the mower on its side and using the dip stick tube as a drain, empty the oil into an appropriate container. If you choose this method, it's best to make sure you've emptied the fuel first.
Once you have new fuel and oil in your mower, expect it to take a few tries to get moving... there's still going to be old fuel in the valves and you'll have to cycle the engine a few times to get it up and running (it'll probably smoke a bit at first as well.... probably not a biggy).
I think that's it.....
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Thanks I appreciate it! I got the mower to start up, cut half the yard, then was out of fuel. So I went and had a little left in my can and combined it with some new and put that in, and now it won't start back up.
I was hoping to avoid dumping and putting new in but I think that's my only option at this point.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
And make sure that you're using the right type of fuel or fuel/oil for your particular mower before you do anything else, otherwise you might damage your engine.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
How Do You Identify Bad Gas?
One way is to eyeball it. Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.
How Long Does it Take for Gas to Go Bad?
That depends on a number of factors. For one, it's hard to know how old the gas you just bought actually is. It may be fresh from the refinery, or it may be a month old already by the time you top off your tank. Some gasoline is mixed with better or more oxidation inhibitors than others.
It's a good rule of thumb to avoid leaving gas in your tank or a storage container for more than a coupe of months, if you can avoid it.
Additionally, depending on your climate and how well sealed your jerry can is, condensation can be a problem. Water in your fuel doesn't work all that well in a combustion engine :biggrin:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The oil had a gasoline smell to it when checked with the dip stick (not quite as noticeable when the oil was drained), evidently no one paid attention to the fact that you were supposed to change the oil and filter after the first 8 hours of runtime (no hour meter was installed on it).
Siphon or drain out the gas. Prime out any bad gas if you can. Put in fresh gas. Remove air cleaner and the carb float. Spray carb cleaner into manifold/combustion area and try to get it started. Try a couple times with spraying and pulling. If it consistently starts but dies (it will eventually die if the carb float isn't attached, cause there is no fuel supply, just the stuff you sprayed in) then put carb float back on and continue trying to start, priming with carb cleaner.
If it wont keep running that way then you want to clean the float. Dump the gas. Clean (with a brush and carb cleaner) the float and check that fuel lines aren't gunked or kinked. Once you've cleaned it up verify you can start it without float. Then reinstall float and prime with carb cleaner and try to get it running. If it'll run til it runs out of that bit of fuel, put in new gas and get going.
Gas goes bad and it varnishes surfaces if neglected. That gumminess F's starting it. The carb cleaner is a better solvent to break it up so if you're borderline then maybe you can use that to get it working again instead of taking it apart and cleaning it.
When you do this, don't put a lot of gas in so you don't have to dump out a lot. I'm assuming this is a fuel delivery issue and not spark since I'm assuming this mower is relatively new (a year or so).
Moving forward, put less gas than you think you need for the particular mowing job. If you run your mower til it dies you'll leave less gas in the system which may cause issues if it's not used for awhile.
If it's a nice mower and you don't want to get your hands dirty you might look on craigslist and get a small gas engine guy to do a tune up.
Also, keep it out of the elements. If you let it get rained on regularly it is going to have problems starting when mow season starts.
I ain't got no idea if my mowers have been 2-stroke or 4, but this method usually gets me going.
Like Tobes said, you might have to press the priming plunger more than just 3 times, 4-5 will do, I could usually tell by feel/sound when the plunger actually sucked some gas.
Honestly, I had a hinky mower and each spring I basically changed the oil and the spark plug, every other year I'd do the oil filter. I was lazy and didnt want to but it sure made things easier
so worth springing for this motor
I'm now burning oil somehow (white smoke whenever the engine finally turns over). I've already emptied and added oil back in to no avail. Looks like I'm primed for a mechanic visit.