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[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

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Posts

  • BurnageBurnage Registered User regular
    The amount of miniature companies out there is really astounding. I went looking for alternative models for skaven last night, as I wanted to do something custom for a non skaven model, and I found a site where a guy detailed out for every unit skaven has, at least 2-3 alternative models from other lines and most of the companies I had never heard before, even when seeking out smaller mini's companies in the past for neat things to paint.

    How do people find these sites to buy $60 amazing models I have never seen before in my years of this hobby? My mind was blown.

    Was it this site? It's got some pretty good lists on there for replacement Fantasy armies.

    DiannaoChong
  • NipsNips In constant existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Burnage wrote: »
    The amount of miniature companies out there is really astounding. I went looking for alternative models for skaven last night, as I wanted to do something custom for a non skaven model, and I found a site where a guy detailed out for every unit skaven has, at least 2-3 alternative models from other lines and most of the companies I had never heard before, even when seeking out smaller mini's companies in the past for neat things to paint.

    How do people find these sites to buy $60 amazing models I have never seen before in my years of this hobby? My mind was blown.

    Was it this site? It's got some pretty good lists on there for replacement Fantasy armies.

    Holy crap. That site is something. I feel like there's rabbit holes down rabbit holes there.

    DiannaoChong
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    Burnage wrote: »
    The amount of miniature companies out there is really astounding. I went looking for alternative models for skaven last night, as I wanted to do something custom for a non skaven model, and I found a site where a guy detailed out for every unit skaven has, at least 2-3 alternative models from other lines and most of the companies I had never heard before, even when seeking out smaller mini's companies in the past for neat things to paint.

    How do people find these sites to buy $60 amazing models I have never seen before in my years of this hobby? My mind was blown.

    Was it this site? It's got some pretty good lists on there for replacement Fantasy armies.

    Yeah that is the one. This site took effort to compile and I've got a soft spot for effort. Half the mini companies he links too are some of the worst internet storefronts I've seen, you can tell its like a step above mom and pop shops trying to set up a EU online storefront to sell their minis and break out.

    Of course I've heard of reaper/warmachine before, and vaguely of helldorado (I got their alchemist mini for a pathfinder game) but some of these seem to to just be completely out of nowhere.

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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    Oh shit I fell down the hole again and found

    http://www.thunderboltmountain.com/products/4106-giant-saber-toothed-flying-mole-with-gills

    A rope. someone throw me a rope please.

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    Elvenshaefray
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    *falls in*

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    ElvenshaeDiannaoChong
  • frayfray Registered User regular
    So it's only just occurred to me that a wash probably doesn't settle properly if you leave the model on its side while it's drying. Eh, live and learn I guess

    "I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
    "And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
  • MatriasMatrias Registered User regular
    my stuff hasn't been an OP in forever!

    3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    @J I'm thinking I just realized you sneaking in a destiny reference. That revolver looks awfully Vanguard-y with the orange V and whatnot ... :P

    When looking for a spot colour for the pistol. Thought I'd better stick with the devil you know. ;)

    ArcticLancer
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    Finished a painting contest entry for my FLGS, theme was paint something spooky.
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    I kind of got bored painting it? I just couldnt put in effort on this one, it came out "Eh it can go on a table if we need a giant spider"

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    WatcherElvenshae
  • DecomposeyDecomposey Registered User regular
    So fisnihed my last painting project, the reaper bones Kraken.

    Not as good as some of the work y'all do (I hate you all) but it doesn't look horrible. Plus it has my first attempts at flocking.
    DSCN0945_zpsol3w5cx0.jpg

    DSCN0947_zpsdq8ixysk.jpg

    Before following any advice, opinions, or thoughts I may have expressed in the above post, I feel I should warn you: I found Keven Costners "Waterworld" to be a very entertaining film.
    Redcoat-13ExtreaminatusWatcherBurnageDiannaoChongArcticLancerElvenshaeNipsvalhalla130AuralynxGR_Zombie
  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited October 2016
    Still a bit to do to finish the Khorne Daemon Prince but I've been knocked out with a cold the past couple days. As I recover I had some inspiration to start on the Nurgle Prince.

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    Sharp101 on
    ExtreaminatusDiannaoChongElvenshaeNipstehjesterKetarvalhalla130JustTee
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    Ooh, I think that's the first time I've been in the OP, how exciting.

    I've finished with four more Mournfang Cavalry, and have just spent all morning assembling and magnetising another couple of Stonehorn/Thundertusks, so Beastclaw Raiders are progressing nicely, I'll try and get some pics when I find opportunity.

    Also picked up some of GWs new snow texture to have a play with, so I'll see how that looks on these icy bases.

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  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Goddamnit. What a funk of a week.

    Been practicing skin tones, wet blending and glazing. All I end up with is a hot mess that winds up in the Dettol and leaves me questioning my abilities outside of one or two schemes.

    I could stick to what I know (technique-wise) but that just feels stagnant.

    Frigging depressing, and I can't stop obsessing over it.

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  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    I remember my first tries with glazing, I was equally confused and frustrated.
    Are you using Vallejo's glaze medium? I can't imagine working without it. If you do have it, I can offer additional tips.

    And what are your problems with the skin tones? Because I would recommend a general art tutorial on how to paint skin, if you're having problem with the colours.

    Kneel
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Mayday wrote: »
    I remember my first tries with glazing, I was equally confused and frustrated.
    Are you using Vallejo's glaze medium? I can't imagine working without it. If you do have it, I can offer additional tips.

    You know, I've got it on the shelf and keep forgetting to use it. Normally I use a glaze just to supplement an already-layered paint job to push the contrast a bit more, or get a bit of interesting colour variation going, but this time I was trying get a pale skin tone purely by glazing in both shadows and highlights over a mid-tone. My lack of patience probably isn't helping.
    And what are your problems with the skin tones? Because I would recommend a general art tutorial on how to paint skin, if you're having problem with the colours.

    Yeah I've been hunting around online for some tutorials, but focusing on miniature-related ones. I'll cast the net a bit further to include painting in general (I aced art in school, but colour was never my strong point).

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  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Yeah, lack of patience and trying to learn glazing is …less than optimal. I understand some folks have taken to the use of a hair dryer to speed things up but figuring the correct settings out can be a problem all of its own.

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    Kneel
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Hair dryer? That sounds weird. With the desired consistency of a glaze, a hair dryer would move the paint around in an uncontrolled way.
    Glazing is definitely NOT a technique for speed painting. Do give the medium a try - start with very thin layers. Once the paint's on the mini, use the brush to move it around and spread it. Keep your brush wet (I just lick it :P ) and make sure the gradient ranges from "barely wet" to "where the paint is". It doesn't have to be super even, you can always apply another layer to even it out later on.

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    TO add to this conversation: I tried my hands at pigments again and it's just so frustrating. It seems to be impossible to not mess them up when fixating them.

  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Are you fixating them with varinsh? Because I don't think that's even possible, they just turn invisible or frosty.

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Mayday wrote: »
    Hair dryer? That sounds weird. With the desired consistency of a glaze, a hair dryer would move the paint around in an uncontrolled way.
    Glazing is definitely NOT a technique for speed painting. Do give the medium a try - start with very thin layers. Once the paint's on the mini, use the brush to move it around and spread it. Keep your brush wet (I just lick it :P ) and make sure the gradient ranges from "barely wet" to "where the paint is". It doesn't have to be super even, you can always apply another layer to even it out later on.

    I've seen quite a few excellent painters using hair dryers to expedite the drying process in their videos (Painting Buddha springs immediately to mind), used on the lowest setting and from a good 30cm or so away from the mini.

    I've done something similar using an airbrush - triggering air without pulling back for spray to get the coat to dry faster. A hairdryer would just be faster still.

    As a side note, I completely forgot that I have the first Angel Giraldez A-Z mini painting book. I just dusted it off and had a nose through for the first time in perhaps a year. If anything, I think my brush control has gotten to a point now where Giraldez' techniques would be even more effective for me, compared to when I bought the book.

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Mayday wrote: »
    Are you fixating them with varinsh? Because I don't think that's even possible, they just turn invisible or frosty.

    MIG pigment fixer. I'll give it time till tomorow but it looks more or less dry at the moment and the pigment is still almost invisible.

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Mayday wrote: »
    Are you fixating them with varinsh? Because I don't think that's even possible, they just turn invisible or frosty.

    MIG pigment fixer. I'll give it time till tomorow but it looks more or less dry at the moment and the pigment is still almost invisible.

    That sounds strange. I normally stuff my pigment into the designated spot and apply a single drop of MIG fixer with a pipette. It darkens a little, sure, but it's still very visable.

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  • GuibsGuibs Weekend Warrior Somewhere up North.Registered User regular
    You guys have a lot of talent and precision. I envy the fact you are good at painting and have time to dedicate to this. My games just seems bland compared to the amazing work you guys do here. Too bad I also can't afford to get someone to do some painting for me.

    Keep up the good work and the pictures, I love seeing them and dreaming...

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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    The purpose of using a hair dryer is the warm, dry air. You set it to the lowest air setting and hold it pretty far back. I do it all the time for setting glazes.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Has anyone used Vallejo liquid mask effectively? I just started to give it a whirl a minute ago, and while it seemed really good at first, it dries really quickly and seems to have basically destroyed the brush I was using to apply it? What I got onto the model looks good and effective, so I'm pretty comfy on that part right now, but I didn't get to apply it everywhere I needed to and I'm hesitant to throw another brush under the bus right now without knowing if there's some trick to this.

  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Alright, alright, I concede. :rotate:

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    edited October 2016
    Has anyone used Vallejo liquid mask effectively? I just started to give it a whirl a minute ago, and while it seemed really good at first, it dries really quickly and seems to have basically destroyed the brush I was using to apply it? What I got onto the model looks good and effective, so I'm pretty comfy on that part right now, but I didn't get to apply it everywhere I needed to and I'm hesitant to throw another brush under the bus right now without knowing if there's some trick to this.

    Try colour shapers instead. The mask should peel right off when dry.

    EDIT if you're masking for rust effects, try using a piece cut from the rough side of a sponge scourer; dip it in, wipe the excess off with kitchen towel and then dab it on as required.

    Kneel on
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  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited October 2016
    Nope, just masking off a bunch of stuff that would be difficult to do with masking tape. You kinda missed my question though - I wanted to know how I should be treating it on the brush, not the model. The resin cakes on there really good and basically makes the brush a rubbry tip instead of a brush. That would be kinda fine except then it also wants to stick to any further resin and it's no longer good for laying it down. Neither water nor isopropyl alcohol help much in cleaning it off. Just looking for tips in that department.

    ArcticLancer on
  • KoregKoreg Registered User regular
    I just started painting my first big tyranid (hive tyrant).

    Note to anyone who wants to paint one of these fuckers. Put the wings on after you paint the body. They get in the way non stop and I really just want to snap them off.

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Nope, just masking off a bunch of stuff that would be difficult to do with masking tape. You kinda missed my question though - I wanted to know how I should be treating it on the brush, not the model. The resin cakes on there really good and basically makes the brush a rubbry tip instead of a brush. That would be kinda fine except then it also wants to stick to any further resin and it's no longer good for laying it down. Neither water nor isopropyl alcohol help much in cleaning it off. Just looking for tips in that department.

    I answered with my first point, invest in a set of colour shapers instead ;)

    Keep liquid mask as far away from your regular brushes as possible. If you absolutely must use a brush, pick up some cheap and nasty synthetic kids art brushes.

    Xk79tEc.png
  • InquisitorInquisitor Of mercenary mind. Registered User regular
    Koreg wrote: »
    I just started painting my first big tyranid (hive tyrant).

    Note to anyone who wants to paint one of these fuckers. Put the wings on after you paint the body. They get in the way non stop and I really just want to snap them off.

    *looks at his assembled but unpainted hive tyrant*

    Well fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck

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  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Koreg wrote: »
    I just started painting my first big tyranid (hive tyrant).

    Note to anyone who wants to paint one of these fuckers. Put the wings on after you paint the body. They get in the way non stop and I really just want to snap them off.

    I strongly recommend magnetising and/or pinning the wings. As well as making them easier to paint, this also allows you to swap them out for other limb options.

    Xk79tEc.png
  • KoregKoreg Registered User regular
    After fighting to get them glued on for a day or so I should have pinned them. I've not had luck with magnets keeping limbs on (Space marines).

    C'est la vie. I did realize though that the standard hive tyrant kit does not come with twin linked devourers, though it does basically have almost enough spare parts to make two hive tyrants. Just need a spare chest piece from Ebay for 20 bucks and a set of wings

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Quick snap of pigments before and after fixer. The dust basically vanished. The redish brown under it is from the rust wash on the tracks I applied before. What am I doing wrong. ki7lk76bjza6.jpg

    Kneel
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    When I apply pigments, I mix them with a bit of matte medium and water to make a wash out of them. I found that dry applications plus fixer just obliterates the pigments. Any time you see a badass military model with cool rust and dust on it, I feel like those are just pigments sitting on the model. Not for playing with or touching.

    Here's what they look like fixed on my soul grinder, just pigment powder, matte medium, and water. I apply the pigment wash to dull down the basecoat and give some colour/texture variation, and then apply my usual washes and highlighting on top of them. You could apply the wash to weathered areas and then brush/rub it away as its drying for some control.
    517602-Chaos%2C%20Defiler%2C%20Khorne%2C%20Soul%20Grinder.jpg

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  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Kneel wrote: »
    Nope, just masking off a bunch of stuff that would be difficult to do with masking tape. You kinda missed my question though - I wanted to know how I should be treating it on the brush, not the model. The resin cakes on there really good and basically makes the brush a rubbry tip instead of a brush. That would be kinda fine except then it also wants to stick to any further resin and it's no longer good for laying it down. Neither water nor isopropyl alcohol help much in cleaning it off. Just looking for tips in that department.

    I answered with my first point, invest in a set of colour shapers instead ;)

    Keep liquid mask as far away from your regular brushes as possible. If you absolutely must use a brush, pick up some cheap and nasty synthetic kids art brushes.

    Appreciate the clarification. I realized after you said this that I owned one and gave it a shot. You're dead on and I wish this was more common knowledge. Thank you, Sir~

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    RE: pigments: here's a rear shot of my Daemon Knight, to show that the pigment stays vibrant. The iron oxide pigments were applied with a brush and then fixed with a drop of MIG pigment fixer. I used some on the base, too. It's usually one of the last steps for my miniatures.
    fbkbkc2c5rjf.jpg

    Xk79tEc.png
    KoregJustTee
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Thanks. I guess I'll do some test runs on some bases.

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Genestealer Abberant #2 is coming along very well.

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    honovereDiannaoChongSharp101NipsElvenshaefrayNisiJustTeeEcho
  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    There is a tournament this Saturday, so I'm trying to get this Infernal Tetrad painted so I can go. I won't get them all to 100%, but if I can hit 80% I'll be happy.

    That being said, the Nurgle Prince is done for now. I'll revisit him later to pick out details like the maggots/worms, teeth, etc.

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    ExtreaminatusMaydayElvenshaefrayNisiDiannaoChongDayspringJustTeetehjester
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