Don't like the snow? You can make a bookmark with the following text instead of a url: javascript:snowStorm.toggleSnow(). Clicking it will toggle the snow on and off.
Our new Indie Games subforum is now open for business in G&T. Go and check it out, you might land a code for a free game. If you're developing an indie game and want to post about it, follow these directions. If you don't, he'll break your legs! Hahaha! Seriously though.
Our rules have been updated and given their own forum. Go and look at them! They are nice, and there may be new ones that you didn't know about! Hooray for rules! Hooray for The System! Hooray for Conforming!

The Art of War: Miniature Modelling and Painting

15657585961

Posts

  • DissociaterDissociater Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Delicious and nutritious!

    steam_sig.png
  • sk600sk600 Registered User
    edited October 2008
    So I need some help with a conversion I'm thinking about

    I want to put an assault cannon on one of my Black Reach dreads. I have an extra metal assault cannon from a landspeeder and an assault cannon arm from a terminator to build from.

    1- Which one do you think I should try to match to the Dread?

    2- Should I just try to buy an assault cannon bit? they are $7 and out of stock at the warstore.

    I am stuck out of town for work right now and don't have the pieces in hand so if anyone can let me know if there will be scale problems for either of the options I would appreciate it

    I am leaning towards using the landspeeder one. It would be my first attempt at cutting metal and I would not have to spend any more money. Also, I want to hang onto the termie one to put on a terminator.

  • NiklasNiklas Registered User
    edited October 2008
    sk600; the terminator assault cannon is a lot smaller than the dreadnought one. If I were you, I'd prolly use a land speeder cannon. If you cut off the multi melta from the dreads arm, you should be able to glue the assault cannon to it. Maybe you'll need some extra parts to bulk it up, but it should be totally doable.

  • sk600sk600 Registered User
    edited October 2008
    Niklas; Thanks, I was hoping that was the better option

    From pictures I can find it looks like there are a couple 'power pack' type things on the back of the dread gun arm connected to the barrels by some tubes, but I shouldn't be too hard to take that off. I heard the plastic in the BR sprues was more brittle than normal and has a tendency to break. Does anyone know for sure?

  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    I've noticed nothing of the sort. Ask Ein, he's probably handled more of it than anyone else here. ^_^;

    Origin ID: Null_Cypher
    Thomas-Vail.png
  • EinEin New Jersey, USARegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    It is a bit of a different plastic formulation. Presumably it's cheaper. It's harder, though I haven't noticed any 'brittle' tendencies. Taking mold lines off in some places a pain.

    btest3.gif
    Server info: mc.crafti.ca
  • DampCatDampCat Registered User
    edited October 2008
    I've trimmed up a bunch of marines in the last few days. The ones from the standalone box were more soft than those in the BR box, but i didnt snap or break any BR marines. I think you'd have to try pretty hard (or like, leave them on a radiator for a few days and heat/dry them).

    fiawal6.jpg
    "EVEN IN DEATH I STILL COOK MOTHERFUCKERS".
  • the cheatthe cheat Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited October 2008
    the cheat wrote: »
    This death scorpion interests me, however it is 20 bucks. Does anyone know if it larger than most of the figures?

    i saw it in a book at the comic shop, and it is pretty fuckin big. so, yeah, i must have it!

  • AsherAsher Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Its on a 40mm x 40mm base, so its largish as far as warhammer minis go, but not massive.

    Things my Red Terror has Swallowed Whole: A Mentors Librarian, a Fire Warrior Sash'Ui. Total Points: 109 (so far...)
    "Leapin' and Hoppin' on a Warpshadow" - Mah Nids
    The Swordwind Rises! - Biel Tan. All Aspects. All the time.
    "Before seeking Victory, first make yourself Invulnerable to defeat" - Sneaky sneaky Raptors
  • sk600sk600 Registered User
    edited October 2008
    Thanks guys.
    Hopefully I can cut the melta off and not make a total wreck of the whole arm

    Any advice on how to make an ammo belt connecting the base of the arm to the gun?

  • RaslinRaslin Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Holy shit

    I don't know what I did wrong with the first wash I tried, because the marine I just finished looks awesome.

    I am happy man right now.

    I cant url good so add me on steam anyways steamcommunity.com/id/Raslin

    3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
  • NiklasNiklas Registered User
    edited October 2008
    Raslin; good going. Now post pics!

  • RaslinRaslin Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Keep in mind that awesome is relative to my other paint jobs. There are some obvious mistakes on this, green in places it shouldn't be, but for the most part, I think it came out well.

    Marine1.jpgMarine2.jpg

    I cant url good so add me on steam anyways steamcommunity.com/id/Raslin

    3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Are you planning on leaving the gun all black? Cause, I think you should pretty it up.

  • It BurnsIt Burns Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    I usually like the gun painted in boltgun with a wash of badab black, and the shielding (?) on top, where the skull is, painted the same colour as the armour or a non-metalic secondary colour if you're using one. You could give that a try.


    Using my paintscheme as an example
    Spoiler:

    The slowest painter. Ever.
  • RaslinRaslin Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Yeah, I plan on doing up the guns, but I have no idea how I want to do them yet.

    I cant url good so add me on steam anyways steamcommunity.com/id/Raslin

    3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Raslin wrote: »
    Yeah, I plan on doing up the guns, but I have no idea how I want to do them yet.

    I suggest doing the clip, the receiver, the bolt, the barrel, the back end etc in the metallic color you are currently using. I recommend painting everything else the green you are using or maybe just highlighting the black, depending. Then paint the scope to look something like glass or some kind of optic sight. Or you could paint those areas and the scope red to make them really pop and add some contrast.

  • OtakuD00DOtakuD00D Too stupid to feel pain. San DiegoRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    RowdyFront2.jpg
    RowdyRear.jpg

    Ol' Rowdy, Cygnar's first character 'Jack. :D

    makosig.jpg
  • the cheatthe cheat Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited October 2008
    hey, that is really cool! nice job.

  • trentsteeltrentsteel Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.

    I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.

    How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)

    Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?

    http://www.botsnthings.com/
    I made a TD for iphone and windows phone!

  • Metzger MeisterMetzger Meister Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    do any of you fellows buy supplies at miniwargaming.com? i notice they have great deals, and i'm a subscriber to their youtube channel, and i was wondering if they're a good company to order from and stuff.

    www.facebook.com/itgetsworseska
    Spoiler:
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    trentsteel wrote: »
    Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.

    I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.

    How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)

    Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
    Dust is a pain, but a large soft brush (eg a Tank Brush that's been sent on one too many drybrushing missions) should be able to get most of it.
    If you wanted to dunk your minis in water, you should have sealed them with spray varnish when they were done, TBH. Otherwise you run an increased risk of paint damage and/or watermarks, depending on your local limestone/water purification rituals.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • trentsteeltrentsteel Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Mr_Rose wrote: »
    trentsteel wrote: »
    Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.

    I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.

    How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)

    Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
    Dust is a pain, but a large soft brush (eg a Tank Brush that's been sent on one too many drybrushing missions) should be able to get most of it.
    If you wanted to dunk your minis in water, you should have sealed them with spray varnish when they were done, TBH. Otherwise you run an increased risk of paint damage and/or watermarks, depending on your local limestone/water purification rituals.

    You mean like 'Ardcoat?

    http://www.botsnthings.com/
    I made a TD for iphone and windows phone!

  • EinEin New Jersey, USARegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    trentsteel wrote: »
    Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.

    I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.

    How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)

    Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?

    I periodically fire up my airbrush and blast off my minis that are gathering dust with the compressor (no paint!). It's safer than using canned air, because canned air has a tendency to spray the occasional mist of superfreezing liquid which will screw your paint up.

    btest3.gif
    Server info: mc.crafti.ca
  • BlindPsychicBlindPsychic Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Ok total noob question, but what kind of paint is the citadel stuff? Enamel? Acrylic?
    How would acrylic ink behave on a model surface as a wash?


    So a forest of boob trees is sexist?
  • NinjerNinjer Registered User
    edited October 2008
    canned air should only do that if you hold it upside-down or sideways

  • IanatorIanator Delightfully mediocre! Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Ok total noob question, but what kind of paint is the citadel stuff? Enamel? Acrylic?
    How would acrylic ink behave on a model surface as a wash?

    Can't help you with the wash, but Citadel Paints are water-based acrylic.

    steam_sig.png
  • UtsanomikoUtsanomiko Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    It probably behaves a lot like Citadels' acrylic ink washes.

    hmm.gif
  • BlindPsychicBlindPsychic Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Oh ok, so if its acrylic for the citadels then yeah, the ink washes should work fine. I use ink washes on wood for my drawings, so I have a bunch of colors. Thanks guys.


    So a forest of boob trees is sexist?
  • NinjerNinjer Registered User
    edited October 2008
    hey um is it safe to use like paint thinner on the metal models?

  • UtsanomikoUtsanomiko Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    It'll most likely strip the paint clean off, but I can't image a paint thinner that can ruin pewter.

    hmm.gif
  • OtakuD00DOtakuD00D Too stupid to feel pain. San DiegoRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    I found it pretty effective to just dunk the metal minis into a cup of undiluted Simple Green for a while.

    makosig.jpg
  • NinjerNinjer Registered User
    edited October 2008
    Utsanomiko wrote: »
    It'll most likely strip the paint clean off, but I can't image a paint thinner that can ruin pewter.

    yeah that was the idea

    some models it seems if you paint over them instead you will lose some of the finer details

  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    OtakuD00D wrote: »
    I found it pretty effective to just dunk the metal minis into a cup of undiluted Simple Green for a while.

    I'm assuming one should detach their metal minis from their plastic bases before attempting such a thing? Because I've got some models in need of some paint stripping.

  • OtakuD00DOtakuD00D Too stupid to feel pain. San DiegoRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Uuuh.... Probably a good idea though I didn't need to so far. I poured in just neough so only the model went in.

    No, wait. It was the entire thing. Simple Green shouldn't be able to melt plastic.

    makosig.jpg
  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    OtakuD00D wrote: »
    Uuuh.... Probably a good idea though I didn't need to so far. I poured in just neough so only the model went in.

    No, wait. It was the entire thing. Simple Green shouldn't be able to melt plastic.

    Good to know. :^:

  • NinjerNinjer Registered User
    edited October 2008
    yeah isn't simple green just like dish soap or all purpose cleaner?

  • OtakuD00DOtakuD00D Too stupid to feel pain. San DiegoRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    All-purpose cleaner found in the Automotive section, of all places. ...At least in Wal-Mart.

    makosig.jpg
  • EinEin New Jersey, USARegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    OtakuD00D wrote: »
    All-purpose cleaner found in the Automotive section, of all places. ...At least in Wal-Mart.

    Yeah, I was getting pissed yesterday when I was at Wal-Mart looking for Simple Green, and I found it in the automotive section right next to all the other caustic, toxic chemicals. Whereas my local supermarket just keeps it in the cleaning aisle, where it belongs. -_-

    btest3.gif
    Server info: mc.crafti.ca
  • AlethiometerAlethiometer Registered User
    edited October 2008
    Cross-posting this from the WH40k thread:

    Time for an Eldar megapost. Sorry for the poor quality lighting- I really need to get a real camera. Hopefully the quality is high enough to give an impression of some of these guys.

    Spoiler:

    How do you determine color schemes for your vehicles? I've got a fire prism, falcon, and a wave serpent that I need to paint and I can't decide what to go with for coloring. As you can see, I've already done a number of variations on the blue/khaki/yellow theme. I want something that's going to stand out from that but still fit, thematically.

This discussion has been closed.