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Tutorials, Questions, and Discussion Thread
Posts
If you're serious enough about them, make a thread.
Maybe even work a piece more to have it as a showcase for the thread?
Do you really mean the ink bottle or the bucket ^^'? Because the bucket has this nice ability close gaps.
- great animation focused website http://www.catsuka.com
Then just select the needed lines with the cursor and change the colour in the properties panel ^^'
- great animation focused website http://www.catsuka.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w1fIVwSEfc&mode=related&search=
You'll find that he goes to the Window tab then Arrange > New Window for "Filename"
Edit> How on earth do I create (draw and colour) a convincing chalkboard eraser?
Yep, got em off the Concept Art forums.
EDIT: Show Info works kinda similar, but its a small window and you can't draw directly on it :\
Bah.
or you can just set it to multiply.
And I still use that same technique for my outlines. Its great.
I was looking at this book http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780439736473&itm=42
Is that a good book?
What's the best way to go about getting commisions for art?
aside from what wakk posted you can also dupe the layer (so its not the background layer) convert it to greyscale. Select the grey channel, invert the selection and delete. should nuke all the white area. then select all and fill it in with black (on the fill select the option that doesn't color in transparent areas). That'll darken the lines some.
Then you can copy the layer a few times until you get it as dark as you want. You'll still have to do some clean up, but that's usually how I start.
Get a directory for advertising agencies call them all and see who's shorthanded, you'll have work for a month.
That's how I got I got my first jobs.
It's sometimes hard to do art for money. You find yourself weighing personal aesthetics against customer demands. I know it's obvious, but I just wanted to throw that out there before you get started. Some (it may seem like more, but only because of a vocal minority) find a happy medium and still retain their own styles through products, while many others become a slave to design.
In order to become an invaluable commission artist, you need to be VERY flexible. I wish someone had told me that before I started.
(just my 2 cents)
strathmore makes good water color paper. that should work I'ld think
I wasn't going to do it.
Then he said, "$150".
I've been surfing for hardcore porn all day doing research, but I realized, he hasn't mentioned anything about a contract or whatever, he just said he could send the money through paypal, which is cool, but how should I go about this?
Wait, where is that directory in the phone book, what should I say, what should I do, what,WHAT,WHAT?
hmmm, the fact that you don't have a contract and he says he'll send you the money through PayPal seems a wee bit shifty to me.
If you're not goign to do a contract (you don't have to wait for him to mention it--you could just bring it up if it makes you feel better), you might ask for part of the money up-front.
o0;;..........
..
yeah. Well, he said I will send a voucher. How does this work?
Also I'm dumb. I never thought resizing was different between programs.
If you want it to look like you did it in MSPaint, you can always set the Resample Image setting to "Nearest Neighbor" which pixelates everything, instead of "Bicubic" which anti-aliases it.
So, aside from using PS to resize, are there any other voodoo tricks for better quality?
Can you explain this a bit more?
bicubic: Samples all pixels and blends/interprets them together when resizing. If you scale up, you get a very soft bluriness. Scaling down, it gets rid of jaggies by blending together the original pixels into a composite color rather than the exact color of one of the original pixels.
Good uses for nearest neighbor: scaling up sprites, to retain "spriteliness".
Good uses for bicubic: almost everything else.
The more you know...
Mr. Bacon, I was wondering, since you're awesome at art and all, how is it that one starts blending colors? I've been trying this "light usually doesn't use local values" thing, but I find myself totally lost on what to do.
Thanks.
I always wondered how much somebody would have to pay me to draw something like that. Considering how I'm strapped for cash right now, I'd totally do it. lol
In any case...a simple contract, in which you ask for half up-front, should be sufficient enough. Just make sure they don't try to completely destroy you - read all the fine print.
I just had to read through a contract that was pretty horrible, and I still have to write back to the guy with the changes. Don't hesitate to speak your mind!
Buddy, you just said a mouthful. I'm not really sure how to proceed, it's almost a big a question as "how do I draw?" However, I'll try to give it a shot and hopefully at least some of it will make sense and/or be helpful.
The basic thing to know is that the color of an object at any given spot is effected by the color of the light hitting it there; places being hit directly by a noon-time sun will be given a yellowish tint, where something being hit by a sunset will be more orangish/red, etc.
Now, where shadows are concerned you may end up with an entirely different coloration, depending on how the direct light is bouncing off of the surrounding environment. For example, on a clear, sunny day the sunlight will still be yellowish, but since the light is also being refelected off a blue sky, the shadow areas facing the sky will take on a bluish tint. If the object is on, a moderately reflective red floor, the shadows can take on a red tint. In a situation where there is no reflected light, such as in space, away from any starts or planets, or in a black-painted room or the like, the shadows will be entirely, 100% black.
Of course, reflected light will also be present in the non-shadow areas, but it will be less noticable due to the direct light already hitting it.
As to where to start, I'd reccomend taking up painting still lifes without doing prior pencil sketching with to practice describing form with tone, collor and planes instead of relying on line. Don't try to blend the values, just focus on placing single, bold, clearly defined planes of color, so you really have to look to see what the color really is on the object, not assuming 'this area is this color, this area is this color, so now I just have to blend between them to fill the in between area".
If you're having trouble wrapping your head around all this junk to begin with, start with a limited palette just to get the planing thing down. Black on grey ground with big brushes, no erasing; then add white, then burnt sienna and ultramarine blue, then keep adding colors individually until you work your way up to a full palette.
Many thanks, sifu.