YggiDeeThe World Ends With You ShillRegistered Userregular
edited August 2010
I recently grabbed a 360 controller for my laptop, and I'm rather fond of it on the whole, but for some reason it doesn't register when I use both L-Trigger and R-Trigger at the same time. Why would anyone deliberately manufacture buttons that cancel each other out like that?
Rabid fanboyism? Way to start that off in a civil manner.
Personally, I find the shape more comfortable than the Shocks (which start eating into various parts of my palms after a few hours), the analog stick position far superior and I quite like the concave shape; it might partially be the stick position or the material used, but with the 360 controller I find it easier to hold forward for prolonged periods of time while doing subtle left-right manipulation than I do with the Shocks, where my thumb will eventually start slipping forward over the surface, since there's no shape there to rest against.
But hey, perhaps people can like different things without being wrong. Stranger things have happened.
[edit] YggiDee: the triggers work as analog sliders along the same axis. Pushing one down will move the axis into the positive, pushing the other will move it into the negative. With both pushed down fully they'll cancel each other out, as if they were resting in the neutral position. Just how it works. It might be due to DirectInput only having a set number of axis to work with (being designed with Joysticks in mind), and since analog sticks already eat some of them up...
For the logitech pad, you can use the 360 Contorller Emulator from ToCA Edit here http://www.tocaedit.com/IB/index.php?act=home, and you can customize it for a bunch of Saitek controllers, manually edit the ini file to set the contorls however you want if there's a game with no gamepad remapping support, and you can map racewheels and such to it as well.
If you like the feel of the Rumblepad, and want the compatibility of the 360 pad, that's one way to go. In the rare occasions where a game doesn't work right, most of the time and ini edit can be found on their forum, or they integrate it into the next release they put up on the GoogleCode page.
I recently grabbed a 360 controller for my laptop, and I'm rather fond of it on the whole, but for some reason it doesn't register when I use both L-Trigger and R-Trigger at the same time. Why would anyone deliberately manufacture buttons that cancel each other out like that?
Because it's actually treated like a rudder. You can go into the joystick/gamepad configuration thingiewhatsit and see this for yourself. It's labeled as the Z-axis, as I recall. One trigger gives it a negative value, the other a positive. So, naturally, you press both, they cancel.
That said, some games just go ahead and label them as buttons instead.
Actually, I was talking about two pieces in each hand like the wiimote but with no motion control, being able to have my hands as near and far apart as I want would feel nice.
Only semi-related but thought I'd post it here- has anyone managed to get a Wii remote playing ball with Windows 7?
I've heard that the Wiimote only likes to work with certain types of bluetooth dongle, and now I don't know which one to buy.
My genius scheme is to use a Wii remote as a left-handed replacement for WASD. Because WASD ruins my left hand after a while.
In other news, RSI sucks...
Tig on
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Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
I recently grabbed a 360 controller for my laptop, and I'm rather fond of it on the whole, but for some reason it doesn't register when I use both L-Trigger and R-Trigger at the same time. Why would anyone deliberately manufacture buttons that cancel each other out like that?
This happens if the game in question uses DirectInput instead of XInput to grab the 360 controller state. Under the former, the triggers are actually bound as two halves of the same axis. So by pressing both triggers, you're essentially doing the same as pressing a joystick up and down at the same time. Needless to say, this doesn't work. (Also, there's no rumble support in DirectInput, and I found the deadzone to be absurd, making the joysticks super twitchy.)
For reasons only Microsoft knows, these aren't problems for XInput, where the API exposes each trigger as an independent 8-bit value.
This is an issue with older games; newer games generally are peachy.
We're a very rare breed. While I think the japanese pad is superior, I still love the original saturn pad. It felt... meaty. It was just a solid controller, and I have memories of sinking in fucking hours of Virtua Fighter 2 with that thing.
I never had a Saturn, but that looks a lot like the 6-button Genesis controller I had. I loved that controller. It had way better buttons than the regular 3-button pad.
We're a very rare breed. While I think the japanese pad is superior, I still love the original saturn pad. It felt... meaty. It was just a solid controller, and I have memories of sinking in fucking hours of Virtua Fighter 2 with that thing.
I like the size and D-pad of the US pad better, while the buttons and triggers on the Japanese/Analog pad are better
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Personally, I find the shape more comfortable than the Shocks (which start eating into various parts of my palms after a few hours), the analog stick position far superior and I quite like the concave shape; it might partially be the stick position or the material used, but with the 360 controller I find it easier to hold forward for prolonged periods of time while doing subtle left-right manipulation than I do with the Shocks, where my thumb will eventually start slipping forward over the surface, since there's no shape there to rest against.
But hey, perhaps people can like different things without being wrong. Stranger things have happened.
[edit] YggiDee: the triggers work as analog sliders along the same axis. Pushing one down will move the axis into the positive, pushing the other will move it into the negative. With both pushed down fully they'll cancel each other out, as if they were resting in the neutral position. Just how it works. It might be due to DirectInput only having a set number of axis to work with (being designed with Joysticks in mind), and since analog sticks already eat some of them up...
If you like the feel of the Rumblepad, and want the compatibility of the 360 pad, that's one way to go. In the rare occasions where a game doesn't work right, most of the time and ini edit can be found on their forum, or they integrate it into the next release they put up on the GoogleCode page.
Because it's actually treated like a rudder. You can go into the joystick/gamepad configuration thingiewhatsit and see this for yourself. It's labeled as the Z-axis, as I recall. One trigger gives it a negative value, the other a positive. So, naturally, you press both, they cancel.
That said, some games just go ahead and label them as buttons instead.
Actually, I was talking about two pieces in each hand like the wiimote but with no motion control, being able to have my hands as near and far apart as I want would feel nice.
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
I've heard that the Wiimote only likes to work with certain types of bluetooth dongle, and now I don't know which one to buy.
My genius scheme is to use a Wii remote as a left-handed replacement for WASD. Because WASD ruins my left hand after a while.
In other news, RSI sucks...
This happens if the game in question uses DirectInput instead of XInput to grab the 360 controller state. Under the former, the triggers are actually bound as two halves of the same axis. So by pressing both triggers, you're essentially doing the same as pressing a joystick up and down at the same time. Needless to say, this doesn't work. (Also, there's no rumble support in DirectInput, and I found the deadzone to be absurd, making the joysticks super twitchy.)
For reasons only Microsoft knows, these aren't problems for XInput, where the API exposes each trigger as an independent 8-bit value.
This is an issue with older games; newer games generally are peachy.
We're a very rare breed. While I think the japanese pad is superior, I still love the original saturn pad. It felt... meaty. It was just a solid controller, and I have memories of sinking in fucking hours of Virtua Fighter 2 with that thing.
I like the size and D-pad of the US pad better, while the buttons and triggers on the Japanese/Analog pad are better