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The War of Art: Vanguard kind of likes how Satan's asshole smells
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Oh hell yes, I've been waiting to do something like this painted up for Black Templars for ages. Not only is it essentially the Mk III Dreadnought, it's specifically a reference to the Contemptor-pattern dread from 1st edition.
Now to find time to justify spending 60-some pounds on it and to actually complete it...
I think it basically looks like a huge Terminator (which is of course awesome). Watching the Contemptor pattern Dread, it makes sense they call Terminator armour "Tactical Dreadnought Armour".
I guess that business as usual around here.
XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
Photo linked, since it's kind of big.
Using P3 paints, mostly. And some old Citadel a friend loaned to me.
Since I'm new posting in this particular thread, if there's some sort of protocol (like, only posting finished pieces or something like that) please let me know.
Thats a fine looking mini, well done so far. I especially like the cloak.
You seem to have painted the hair with a very bright white. Such a bright colour is hard to highlight, since you wont find anything brighter. Instead, I would paint the hair with a series of colours, starting with a fairly dark, brownish thing, and then working up with thin layers to skull white (or whatever the p3 equivalent is).
When I do white (and I'm no expert at it) I start with a greyish white foundation paint called Dheneb Stone. Then I give it a brown wash (Devlan Mud). When the wash dries, I go over the part with Dheneb Stone again, avoiding the deepest recesses. After that I do another highlight with a brownish, bone-colored white called "Bleached Bone". Finally, I apply a very thin highlight with the brightest white color I got, in my case "Skull White".
This a fairly quick way to paint white. I know other people have other ways of doing it, some working from a very dark brown, and using a lot of different paints until they finally reach white.
But yeah, white is tricky.
I'll echo what others have said.
One thing to consider is whatever color you start off as your base will change the end "white" you see.
So, a blue base will make a (in my opinion) more angelic/pristine white. Brown will make a grittier white. Red will make a more aggressive/energetic white. Etc. All are good choices, just something to think about.
Awesome job on the model so far
XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
Still, the suggestion of starting dark and working your way to light is very good, and much how I figured I should do it. I've got training in traditional oils, I've just been sort of following that background as I go along with these minis.
Thank you very much for all your suggestions.
I've actually seen some people paint miniatures using oil paints. It's a pretty painstaking process as you have to wait for ages for each layer to dry properly, but it turns out a nice looking figure.
I generally have an "opener" photo, with detail/additional in the spoiler.
I tried using model car paint on a mini, except the skin and browns, it came out very strange. I tried to blend the paint on the cape, and it came out terrible. This was done a long time ago, before I knew any better essentially. Ill post pictures tomorrow* of how it came out.
*this means 6 months in diannaochong picture posting time
Starts here with one(1) Finecast Champion of Khorne. The cast was horrible! I had almost nothing to fill or complain about at all! Just a boot-heel hidden under the cloak.
Next comes the undercoat, Army Painter black primer spray. Still the best black undercoat I've ever seen.
Next step is the highlighting. This was done with an airbrush loaded with Vallejo Model Air number 71050 "Light Grey" then VMA#71001 "White" carefully applied to the upper surfaces only.
These pics are Grey only:
These have the white from the very top too:
Finally, the colour coat. My personal favourite red blend ever; 50:50 Citadel Foundation "Mechrite Red" (#68-01) and Citadel Colour "Red Gore" (#61-05), diluted with Liquitex Airbrush Medium. Sprayed evenly over the entire model in thin layers to let the highlighting in the previous step show through.
Of course, the next step is to actually paint the thing at which point it of course, all went horribly wrong.
Assuming it ever stops raining here, pics will be up shortly.
DropBox invite link - get 250MB extra free.
I am a big fan of snotlings (due to fluff, not rules), so I've been running with two of these in most games. But this is the only painted one.
XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
So I took the pictures indoors anyway.
These are clickable like the last lot, so you can see what a horrible mess I made. Maybe I should use something smaller than a basecoat brush for this stuff.
Also, bonus "artistic" picture:
Still not sure what to do about the skulls or the cloak though. The Orc skull is particularly terrible. Still, the basic armour is nice so we'll call it a good first try, yes?
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My tip for skulls - Sepia wash. It adds that nice yellow-y tint to the bone which you can drybrush some white overtop afterwords.
This is pretty much my steps as well, but I start with a darker brown/yellow (like Iyanden Darksun or Tausept Ochre) undercoat before the Bleached Bone. But that's because I prefer my skulls to be a little darker.
Before: (6/18/2011)
After: (7/8/2011)
These are the first miniatures I have ever painted and I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I'm really enjoying both playing and painting all this stuff and really glad I got into the hobby.
Yeah lots of people do this, personally I don't as I don't feel that you get the look of it right unless all the components are in place, but that's just me I doubt it actually matters.
Some people actually prime and paint the pieces whilst they're still on the sprue even.
Mr Rose, that is the slickest looking model I've seen in a long time. What kind of spray gun do you have, and is it worth it?
I'd love to start painting like that.
The airbrush is a "Spraymaster Precision Gravity-Feed Dual Action Airbrush - ABR1002" (that's the line in the order confirmation e-mail) I ordered from a company called "Simple2Trade" via Amazon's UK site. Cost me £25 for the kit plus another fiver for the right hose to connect to my compressor. Considering the relative price of name brand airbrushes, it was totally worth it. Plus it makes painting base colour blends about fifty times easier.
On the topic of assembling/painting: the khorne lord up there was undercoated in separate parts then dry fitted and pinned for the purposes of the spray-shading process, and the pre-shaded parts were then painted separately and re-fitted. Turns out the graduations in the pre-shade make good guides for making parts match.
DropBox invite link - get 250MB extra free.
As for my compressor, it cost me £100 from my local model aircraft hobby store. I couldn't tell you the model or anything but given how much I use it it's definitely saved me at least its own price in butane cans and more than twice that in hassle (it doesn't flake out in the middle of a colour layer, for example). I can tell you it came with a tank and a variable regulator with moisture trap that switches off the pump motor when the tank is up to pressure and that those are good features to look for.
DropBox invite link - get 250MB extra free.
But yeah those £6 ones are dinky 12v ones for emergency tyre inflation - you couldn't even attach an airbrush to most of them without cutting the built-in hose off first.
DropBox invite link - get 250MB extra free.
Not sure why I chose to make the whips green, but it makes them stand out a bit more 4 sho'
And the cryx players are gonna kill me for this
http://www.dust514stats.com
I'll get some better lit photos once it's completely finished, this one was just snapped at the local gaming store painting night.
No undercoat or primer?
http://www.dust514stats.com
I like the armor and the cloth, but there's something off about the face...