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The War of Art: Vanguard kind of likes how Satan's asshole smells

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Posts

  • UtsanomikoUtsanomiko Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Niklas wrote: »

    Oh hell yes, I've been waiting to do something like this painted up for Black Templars for ages. Not only is it essentially the Mk III Dreadnought, it's specifically a reference to the Contemptor-pattern dread from 1st edition.

    Now to find time to justify spending 60-some pounds on it and to actually complete it...

    hmm.gif
  • NiklasNiklas Registered User
    edited July 2011
    -Loki- wrote: »
    Thats a really awesome dreadnaught body. I dont think its the proportion that's the issue, but something seems off about it.

    To me, the thing that seems off about it is the general shape when you consider it outside of the fluff. It's like the Dreadknight, it just doesn't have that boxy shape you associate with Space Marines.

    But then, it's meant ot be a Dreadnought pattern from the Dark Age of Technology, and used extensively during the Horus Heresy, so its general shape make sense since it's from a time when their technology was far, far better.

    I think it basically looks like a huge Terminator (which is of course awesome). Watching the Contemptor pattern Dread, it makes sense they call Terminator armour "Tactical Dreadnought Armour".

  • saluksicsaluksic Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Last two pages have been Wow!

    I guess that business as usual around here.

  • UreshiiAkumaUreshiiAkuma Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Here is my Orc Shaman (finished a couple weeks ago).

    orc_shaman.jpg

    3ds: 1934-0753-2550
    XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
    steam_sig.png
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Very nice. Did you paint the lips shaded, or did you use a wash?

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  • UreshiiAkumaUreshiiAkuma Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    I painted them. For his skin, I base coated the darkest color and then layered up to the highlight. Took more time than my usual mid-color base, wash, highlight one or two layers for my rank and file, but I think it was worth it.

    3ds: 1934-0753-2550
    XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
    steam_sig.png
  • PasserbyePasserbye The Woman Who Is Not Short at The Moonlite All-Nite Diner; a glass box full of bad food and good people.Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Eh, hello there. I've got a mini I'm just about done painting (just the hair and some touching up left to do), I'd like the thoughts of more experienced painters on it. It's a Cleric of Morrow mini, but I'm using it for a completely different game so the colors aren't anything to do with Warmachine. I'm not sure how exactly to give the hair some sort of highlights, so suggestions on that would be appreciated.

    Photo linked, since it's kind of big.

    Using P3 paints, mostly. And some old Citadel a friend loaned to me.

    Since I'm new posting in this particular thread, if there's some sort of protocol (like, only posting finished pieces or something like that) please let me know.

  • NiklasNiklas Registered User
    edited July 2011
    Passerbye wrote: »
    Eh, hello there. I've got a mini I'm just about done painting (just the hair and some touching up left to do), I'd like the thoughts of more experienced painters on it. It's a Cleric of Morrow mini, but I'm using it for a completely different game so the colors aren't anything to do with Warmachine. I'm not sure how exactly to give the hair some sort of highlights, so suggestions on that would be appreciated.

    Photo linked, since it's kind of big.

    Using P3 paints, mostly. And some old Citadel a friend loaned to me.

    Since I'm new posting in this particular thread, if there's some sort of protocol (like, only posting finished pieces or something like that) please let me know.

    Thats a fine looking mini, well done so far. I especially like the cloak.

    You seem to have painted the hair with a very bright white. Such a bright colour is hard to highlight, since you wont find anything brighter. Instead, I would paint the hair with a series of colours, starting with a fairly dark, brownish thing, and then working up with thin layers to skull white (or whatever the p3 equivalent is).

    When I do white (and I'm no expert at it) I start with a greyish white foundation paint called Dheneb Stone. Then I give it a brown wash (Devlan Mud). When the wash dries, I go over the part with Dheneb Stone again, avoiding the deepest recesses. After that I do another highlight with a brownish, bone-colored white called "Bleached Bone". Finally, I apply a very thin highlight with the brightest white color I got, in my case "Skull White".

    This a fairly quick way to paint white. I know other people have other ways of doing it, some working from a very dark brown, and using a lot of different paints until they finally reach white.

    But yeah, white is tricky.

  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    For the hair, I would suggest washing it blue and then re-highlighting it up to white.

  • UreshiiAkumaUreshiiAkuma Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Dayspring wrote: »
    For the hair, I would suggest washing it blue and then re-highlighting it up to white.

    I'll echo what others have said.

    One thing to consider is whatever color you start off as your base will change the end "white" you see.
    So, a blue base will make a (in my opinion) more angelic/pristine white. Brown will make a grittier white. Red will make a more aggressive/energetic white. Etc. All are good choices, just something to think about.

    Awesome job on the model so far :)

    3ds: 1934-0753-2550
    XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    I would go blue wash->re-highlight white as suggested, if you want to keep the hair itself white.

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  • PasserbyePasserbye The Woman Who Is Not Short at The Moonlite All-Nite Diner; a glass box full of bad food and good people.Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Agh, sorry, I should have mentioned for the hair (sorry, I was pretty wiped when I made the post) - the white is just a base coat. I'm thinking I'll do auburn for her. White hair just doesn't work with her skin tone (I want something a bit more realistic.) and doesn't help the tunic to stand out much.

    Still, the suggestion of starting dark and working your way to light is very good, and much how I figured I should do it. I've got training in traditional oils, I've just been sort of following that background as I go along with these minis.

    Thank you very much for all your suggestions. :)

  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Also, in terms of thread protocol, the more pictures the better! Post as much as you can, everyone loves pictures.

    I've actually seen some people paint miniatures using oil paints. It's a pretty painstaking process as you have to wait for ages for each layer to dry properly, but it turns out a nice looking figure.

  • RaslinRaslin Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Also, people, you should not put pictures in spoilers. When I dredge the thread for new pics for the next thread, I skim, and may miss spoilered pics. Just saying :P

    I cant url good so add me on steam anyways steamcommunity.com/id/Raslin

    3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Raslin wrote: »
    Also, people, you should not put pictures in spoilers. When I dredge the thread for new pics for the next thread, I skim, and may miss spoilered pics. Just saying :P

    I generally have an "opener" photo, with detail/additional in the spoiler.

    I tried using model car paint on a mini, except the skin and browns, it came out very strange. I tried to blend the paint on the cape, and it came out terrible. This was done a long time ago, before I knew any better essentially. Ill post pictures tomorrow* of how it came out.

    *this means 6 months in diannaochong picture posting time

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  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    I'm fucking determined to do some work on my Heirophant this weekend. Goals - saw off the nub of resin on the tail part of the body, saw off the tab of resin on the tail part that joins to the body, attach the head and fix the join with green stuff, repair the front legs. This means I'll need to buy a razor saw, since the tabs of resin on the tail are too difficult with a high speed dremel.

  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    In the spirit of uploading way to many pics, I decided to try some of that "azimuthal highlighting" stuff all the kids are talking about these days:

    Starts here with one(1) Finecast Champion of Khorne. The cast was horrible! I had almost nothing to fill or complain about at all! Just a boot-heel hidden under the cloak.
    th_DSC_0959.jpg
    th_DSC_0962.jpg

    Next comes the undercoat, Army Painter black primer spray. Still the best black undercoat I've ever seen.
    th_DSC_0965.jpg
    th_DSC_0967.jpg

    Next step is the highlighting. This was done with an airbrush loaded with Vallejo Model Air number 71050 "Light Grey" then VMA#71001 "White" carefully applied to the upper surfaces only.
    These pics are Grey only:
    th_DSC_0970.jpg
    th_DSC_0972.jpg
    These have the white from the very top too:
    th_DSC_0974.jpg
    th_DSC_0976.jpg

    Finally, the colour coat. My personal favourite red blend ever; 50:50 Citadel Foundation "Mechrite Red" (#68-01) and Citadel Colour "Red Gore" (#61-05), diluted with Liquitex Airbrush Medium. Sprayed evenly over the entire model in thin layers to let the highlighting in the previous step show through.
    th_DSC_0982.jpg
    th_DSC_0984.jpg

    Of course, the next step is to actually paint the thing at which point it of course, all went horribly wrong. :P
    Assuming it ever stops raining here, pics will be up shortly.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • UreshiiAkumaUreshiiAkuma Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    More O&G! Due to 3 week old baby, I haven't done much painting in the past month, so this is another model I painted in the last few months.

    I am a big fan of snotlings (due to fluff, not rules), so I've been running with two of these in most games. But this is the only painted one.

    IMG_0395.JPG

    3ds: 1934-0753-2550
    XBox Live: UreshiiAkumu
    steam_sig.png
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    It stopped raining!
    So I took the pictures indoors anyway. :P

    These are clickable like the last lot, so you can see what a horrible mess I made. Maybe I should use something smaller than a basecoat brush for this stuff.
    th_DSC_0986.jpg
    th_DSC_0990.jpg

    Also, bonus "artistic" picture:
    DSC_0987.jpg

    Still not sure what to do about the skulls or the cloak though. The Orc skull is particularly terrible. Still, the basic armour is nice so we'll call it a good first try, yes?

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited July 2011
    That's looking great.

    My tip for skulls - Sepia wash. It adds that nice yellow-y tint to the bone which you can drybrush some white overtop afterwords.

  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt Damn you, eidetic memory! Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    My recipe for good skulls is bleached bone, gryphonne sepia wash, and then a drybrush of bleached bone and then skull white to high light.

    Origin ID: Null_Cypher
    Thomas-Vail.png
  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited July 2011
    My recipe for good skulls is bleached bone, gryphonne sepia wash, and then a drybrush of bleached bone and then skull white to high light.

    This is pretty much my steps as well, but I start with a darker brown/yellow (like Iyanden Darksun or Tausept Ochre) undercoat before the Bleached Bone. But that's because I prefer my skulls to be a little darker.

  • manaleak34manaleak34 Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    So I posted this over in the WarmaHordes thread but it seems appropriate here as well and to not derail their thread. So here's my Warmachine Khador Battlebox which is just about finished up.

    Before: (6/18/2011)
    2011-06-18_22-22-32_97.jpg

    After: (7/8/2011)
    2011-07-08_12-49-03_131.jpg

    These are the first miniatures I have ever painted and I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I'm really enjoying both playing and painting all this stuff and really glad I got into the hobby.

    XBL/Steam:ManaCrevice
  • JJ Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Did I see these on the PP forums? They look damn good for your first mini's ever. Red is a damn hard colour to paint evenly and smoothly I reckon.

  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Red is a son of a bitch to paint evenly. The best way I've found that doesn't take half a dozen coats of progessively more vibrant red is to simply prime the model red and paint the other pats whatever colours they need to be.

  • manaleak34manaleak34 Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    So question, will it be okay to prime and paint all the parts of the miniature before gluing together? One difficultly I had with the Warjacks was painting in hard to reach places and I don't think I got a super good coat on them.

    XBL/Steam:ManaCrevice
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Conceal Don't FeelRegistered User regular
    edited July 2011
    manaleak34 wrote: »
    So question, will it be okay to prime and paint all the parts of the miniature before gluing together? One difficultly I had with the Warjacks was painting in hard to reach places and I don't think I got a super good coat on them.

    Yeah lots of people do this, personally I don't as I don't feel that you get the look of it right unless all the components are in place, but that's just me I doubt it actually matters.

    Some people actually prime and paint the pieces whilst they're still on the sprue even.

    LetharCombo_zpsbd0f5853.gif?t=1348690746

  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt Damn you, eidetic memory! Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    The only problem with that is you are them gluing paint to paint, instead of surface to surface. Given the weight of some of the metal jack pieces, this could be a problem, so you'll need to scrape the painter and primer off of the joins.

    Origin ID: Null_Cypher
    Thomas-Vail.png
  • saluksicsaluksic Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    The only reason I don't do this is because I'm too impatient to see the see the model assembled. I think it way more convenient to paint parts, and then assemble.

    Mr Rose, that is the slickest looking model I've seen in a long time. What kind of spray gun do you have, and is it worth it?

    I'd love to start painting like that.

  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    saluksic wrote: »
    The only reason I don't do this is because I'm too impatient to see the see the model assembled. I think it way more convenient to paint parts, and then assemble.

    Mr Rose, that is the slickest looking model I've seen in a long time. What kind of spray gun do you have, and is it worth it?

    I'd love to start painting like that.
    Thanks man.

    The airbrush is a "Spraymaster Precision Gravity-Feed Dual Action Airbrush - ABR1002" (that's the line in the order confirmation e-mail) I ordered from a company called "Simple2Trade" via Amazon's UK site. Cost me £25 for the kit plus another fiver for the right hose to connect to my compressor. Considering the relative price of name brand airbrushes, it was totally worth it. Plus it makes painting base colour blends about fifty times easier.

    On the topic of assembling/painting: the khorne lord up there was undercoated in separate parts then dry fitted and pinned for the purposes of the spray-shading process, and the pre-shaded parts were then painted separately and re-fitted. Turns out the graduations in the pre-shade make good guides for making parts match.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • EchoEcho staring is caring Super Moderator, Moderator mod
    edited July 2011
    Hmm. I see that airbrush for 29 GBP. Hmm hmm. Now what does a compressor cost?

  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Oh yeah, I got it three years ago so prices may have changed since then.
    As for my compressor, it cost me £100 from my local model aircraft hobby store. I couldn't tell you the model or anything but given how much I use it it's definitely saved me at least its own price in butane cans and more than twice that in hassle (it doesn't flake out in the middle of a colour layer, for example). I can tell you it came with a tank and a variable regulator with moisture trap that switches off the pump motor when the tank is up to pressure and that those are good features to look for.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • EchoEcho staring is caring Super Moderator, Moderator mod
    edited July 2011
    Amazon has a 6 GBP compressor. Sounds like quality!

  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    OK wow, I just searched amazon for "air compressor" and got hits in the pet department...
    But yeah those £6 ones are dinky 12v ones for emergency tyre inflation - you couldn't even attach an airbrush to most of them without cutting the built-in hose off first.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • mugginnsmugginns Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Crappy photos of my lash whip / bone sword warriors:

    IMAG0168.jpg

    IMAG0167.jpg

    Not sure why I chose to make the whips green, but it makes them stand out a bit more 4 sho'

    E26cO.jpg
  • rucdocrucdoc Crazy guy in the corner ClassifiedRegistered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Some Pg's I'm working on

    2py6hco.jpg

    And the cryx players are gonna kill me for this

    23jpaop.jpg

    Original Creepy Janitor

    http://www.dust514stats.com
  • PasserbyePasserbye The Woman Who Is Not Short at The Moonlite All-Nite Diner; a glass box full of bad food and good people.Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Need to add reddish highlights to the hair and finish touch ups, but mostly done.

    269881_538005171984_82301581_30970267_5497123_n.jpg

    I'll get some better lit photos once it's completely finished, this one was just snapped at the local gaming store painting night.

  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    rucdoc wrote: »
    Some Pg's I'm working on
    Spoiler:
    And the cryx players are gonna kill me for this
    Spoiler:

    No undercoat or primer?

  • rucdocrucdoc Crazy guy in the corner ClassifiedRegistered User regular
    edited July 2011
    No I tend to only prime/undercoat my plastic models. P3 paint goes on nicely on the metal, and once I seal it doesn't show much difference from models I've primed except for primed models sometimes lose small details I can keep if I don't prime them.

    Original Creepy Janitor

    http://www.dust514stats.com
  • MatriasMatrias Registered User regular
    edited July 2011
    Passerbye wrote: »
    Need to add reddish highlights to the hair and finish touch ups, but mostly done.

    269881_538005171984_82301581_30970267_5497123_n.jpg

    I'll get some better lit photos once it's completely finished, this one was just snapped at the local gaming store painting night.

    I like the armor and the cloth, but there's something off about the face...

    3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
This discussion has been closed.