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Questions, Discussion, Tutorials
Posts
1 - Are the micron pens a good choice for basic line work? I don't really do any legitimate inking at present - just basic outlining.
2 - I'd like try experimenting with color, particularly markers, but I'm not sure what would be a good starter product. I've read a lot about copic markers, but they're way out of my price range.
Any product recommendations would be really helpful.
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Thanks Cake and Tynic, Saving it as a PS image did the trick. And now I've got a bunch of snazzy business cards to hand out.
Edit: I'm not looking for someone to pester with pro bono requests. I'm looking for someone to pay a sack of cash in the future for a really specific font because I'm sort of abysmal at type design.
I have a Motion LE1600 for digital art, but I'm finding it extremely difficult to move beyond the cartoony, line-intensive, flat-value art that I've always made when working digitally, and I think working in a physical medium would be a lot more productive on that front.
There is nothing wrong with digital for working with value, in fact it's a much more ideal tool. The problem you have here is mindset, not tools....sometimes changing medium can help mindset...but I would be careful thinking it's going to work miracles.
I dunno, hatching to create a sense of form seems to be pretty aesthetically and developmentally valid - by which I mean that understanding the effects of diverging/converging/parallel/intersecting lines and how they create value seems like it would be helpful when you move on to painting and also start thinking about composition. But I am no expert!
It can also be a shortcut, I suppose; i think something like this looks good, probably with a lot less effort/time than smooth/textured shading with the same tools, but doing the latter would probably be an improvement.
My main problem with digital, i think, is the feeling of constriction because of the menus and bars and poor sensitivity on the edges of an already-small screen. I already have trouble not drawing cramped, small figures when working in any medium.
PORTFOLIO
Here is an impressive drawing. Notice the zero cross-hatching. By all means work traditionally. I am not actually known on this forum for promoting digital believe it or not. But I think your reasons for not using it are more an extension of your mindset than a problem with the actual tool.
I won't go so far as Cake in saying it's completely worthless, but I will say that making it look good is by no means going to be a shortcut- if anything, doing it well is even harder than a purely tonal approach.
(Conversational tangent incoming)
An example of good use of hatching principles (it's got some tonal work in there as well so it's not a perfect example, but): http://bacon.iseenothing.com/otherpeoplestuff/greuze.jpg
But the thing is, drawing like that is pretty much as, if not more, difficult than drawing purely tonally with charcoal or digitally- and both require the same mastery of light and shade and tone and form etc.
The problem with cross hatching is it gets a bad rap because of examples like yours- stroke directions chosen at random, not following the form, parallel strokes flattening the form pointlessly, strokes criss-crossing each other in weird flat waffle patterns- generally just making a mess of things. This is what happens when people who don't have a lot of understanding of form try to cross-hatch, and it looks terrible. High school students hear the term "cross-hatching" as a piece of fancy sounding art vocabulary and try to do it, without understanding all the knowledge involved in doing it effectively. (Which is why that picture would still be pretty bad even if it was ultra-airbrush smooth.)
Compare that to the Greuze example- every individual stroke is there for a purpose, describing the form and tone in a very graceful way- like a sculptor using a rake tool to carve out a face from clay. There's no shortcut involved in doing that, because drawing like that is extraordinarily difficult.
But then, any method that ends up with a good looking result tends to be very difficult (drawing is hard, no joke), so if you're going to do something you should at least aim for something you actually want to eventually draw like, rather than pick techniques based on whether you think they'll be easy or not.
Here and Here.
Altough it is pretty irrelevant in this discussion since he asked for soft graduations. Perhaps study the Rembrandt etchings. We had to copy a few in college to get a feel for expressive crosshatching. There are some great books with just these etchings in them, perfect for copying. I disagree with Cake that no crosshatched drawing can "live up" to a painterly work (if i interpret you correctly). Different medium, different strengths.
Clement Coll is one of my favorite artists, and he bounces back and forth between using cross-hatching and not, and it doesn't bother me in the slightest. But that's because the cross-hatching is irrelevant to his artwork, just like in the links you posted. It's not his approach, it's just something he happened to do on the way to a final product.
Everyone around here seems so caught up in the technical aspects of drawing... when it doesn't friggin matter at all. It's like asking a painter for every specific color on his palette, or his brush brand and size and shape. I guess all of these things help? But they are not what makes the painter. And cross-hatching is one of these tools that becomes so damn distracting while you use it that most people totally forget they are supposed to be producing something that looks nice at all. You are better off leaving it at home and working in just about any other way.
Altough i fail to see how the examples i posted aren't really crosshatching. Or is the word crosshatching used only for straight intersecting lines in english?
Less work for me MT!! Duh!
I want to eventually be doing oil paintings, but I've got to work on some basic drawing skills first, I think.
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I didn't see anyone else reply, and I don't have any tutorials, but my advice is to practice practice practice and to draw BIG. I scan in my pencil drawings at 600 dpi and usually draw at 100%. Sometimes I'll zoom in to 200% as well. It's much easier for me to get smooth lines this way.
PORTFOLIO
this would help me as well. Many thanks in advance
I use this to the point that I am practically retarded without it.
But I'll get over it eventually: http://colorschemedesigner.com/
I have this little ps plug-in called adobe kuler but I don't like it. I'll give that site a try. Thank you for sharing
I'm assuming you're talking about Photoshop? Practice over long periods of time helps. Tracing over pencil drawings helps. Draw big and zoom in if you need to. It's much easier to make smooth lines.
PORTFOLIO
I'm reading his book at the moment and it is really great. The blog is a bit of an extension of the books. one of the few sites on my daily blog bookmark.
I mailed him a couple of times with questions or relevant links, and he even took the time to reply!
The intuos 3 and windows 7 seem destined to never get along. I'm having an issue at the moment where the pen pressure sensitivity is randomly ignored by PS cs5. So I'll be going about my business and then all of a sudden I get a fat ass line at full opacity. It's driving me fucking nuts, I've tried latest drivers, removing the tablet and re-adding it. My next option is to try 6.15 which Wacom recommend as the most stable driver for the intuos 3.
They are homages to the unsung heroes of the zerg in Starcraft. The first looks like an overlord to anyone who plays, but moms think it's a skull or something.
I used most of the negative space, trying to not have the designs be flat out drawings of an overlord and overseer.
You guys think I'll be okay or what?
As a critique of your designs though, I wouldn't buy a shirt like these though it's probably just my personal preference. It's just too much chaos and it can actually be a bit hard to tell what they are/whats going on...and it tends to be 10x harder to tell what something is when its wrapped around my fat jiggling gut.
Recently I've started using my Intuos 3 tablet, but for some reason or another photoshop refuses to recognize pen pressure sensitivity! The tablet "works" in a sense, but I recently discovered its stuck in mouse mode, and I can't figure out how to change it!
I tried looking up my tablet settings on my PC, but it doesn't give me an option (or even show) where I can change from mouse to pen pressure!
Please help!