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Computer Build Thread: Old Dead Thread, Read New Thread
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went with a 4 pack of 120's that are rated extra quiet.
edit. I was persistent in installing the drivers and it started to work. I don't know I just am glad it is back.
Current Playthroughs: Neverwinter Closed Beta|Let's Build! Sim City
If you've done all that I'd try pulling one stick of ram and booting, if that doesn't work try with the other stick in. If you still get nothing you can try reseating the CPU and repeating all of the above.
edit: I don't suppose you have any other components around to swap in as test parts do you?
Current Playthroughs: Neverwinter Closed Beta|Let's Build! Sim City
Glad it was a simple fix at least.
Okay got it:
motherboard: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NSLI/
Power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171013
It's this weird tradeoff between the relative ease of just buying a new rig versus, well, the cost obviously. But I suspect it's at the point where I should probably just upgrade wholesale regardless, really.
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
That's almost the exact same board I've got in my amd rig, and with a bios flash that one will support up to a phenomIIx4 945. I've seen a few reports that while it isn't officially supported the board will run even the black edition pIIx4s as well.
That's an older PSU but it'll probably be able to handle a single card solution alright, especially if you're going the budget route. You could also look around for a nice quality 430-500, since they can be had for not a terrible amount.
Basically it comes down to how much you are willing/able to spend.
A p2x4 running at 3ghz or so won't bottleneck any low to midrange GPUs and should run you maybe a little more than an i3 costs right now, because they seem to be getting more scarce.
If you go the new build route you're looking at the cost of a motherboard and new ram on top of the CPU. I'm assuming a new PSU/GPU either way here.
Actually I guess that's a good time to ask, I could probably save up $2kish in a few months if I decided I wanted to buy a whole new rig. What kind of PC would that get me these days? I've never been up-to-date with PC specs as it is and I've fallen completely out of the loop since I bought this computer and stopped thinking about it entirely.
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
Current Playthroughs: Neverwinter Closed Beta|Let's Build! Sim City
well crossfire was enabled. so i don't know why steam is saying it is not
is it something really stupid like, you don't have a crossfire bridge installed?
$2k is a massive budget. Typically, the highest budget we'll suggest (well, at least for the reasonably sane people; i.e. not Day of the Bear, Minor Incident, Alecthar, etc.) is ~$1.5k with the other peripherals, like monitor(s), additional to that. For just the tower components, anything much more than $1500 is really better saved up for future upgrades. If you save the extra $500 for a GPU upgrade next year, you'll extend the high-end lifespan of your system further than spending all of that money now.
Here's a monster of a build for ~$1500 (with $70 in MIRs):
CPU: i5-2500k
HSF: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-R795WF3-3GD Radeon HD 7950 3GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 120GB
RAM: G.SKILL Ares 2 x 4GB DDR3 1600
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3
PSU: OCZ ZT Series 650W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Bronze
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 400R
OS: Win7 Home Premium 64-bit
STEAM: Gasman1220 | My Backloggery
Unless you run other resource heavy tasks besides games on your machine, care significantly about running things on ULTRAMAX at resolutions higher than 1200p, or you really want to make sure your machine is noiseless, that's a very very good build there.
As a semi related note I'm not as big a fan of the gigabyte boards as I am asus so I went poking on newegg to make some recommendations, and has newegg just completely drawn down their stock of the p67/z68 asus boards in preparation for the ivy boards soon? Or is their search feature hating. Because I can't find anything other than open box versions of a number of the nice solid mid range asus boards.
But on that note it looks like if you're in the market for a p67/z68 board newegg has a ton of great open box asus boards right now.
Behance Portfolio I Amazonian I PSN- Subtle_Ties | 3DS: 3840-5210-2008 (Subtle)
But I have absolutely no reason to grab a new 1155 board right now.
That sounds like reason enough to me.
unless it is somehow installed wrong, then no. i have a bridge on
Minor you are not helping!
anything i should diable in win 7?
My parts should be here wednesday!
I bookmarked these the previous time someone answered this question.
http://www.overclock.net/t/664738/how-to-setup-ssd-boot-drive-with-secondary-hard-disc-optimization
http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-guide-optimization-for-ssds-hdds
STEAM: Gasman1220 | My Backloggery
You have problems, man. I'm going to enjoy the inevitable shot of the bottom filled with distilled water, though.
"and that's why we put clamps on our barbs, DotB..."
How it gets on there is no concern of mine
I'm not sure I trust myself.
But yeah, thanks for the advice, guys. I got the information I needed to make an informed decision. (I am bad at decisions!)
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
-HDD: Heard that Seagate wasn't as good as Western Digital. Has this changed at all recently, or should I still avoid them at all cost?
-More HDD: Since I need one of those anyways, could I just grab an External and use that for whatever won't go on the SSD (until I grab a proper Internal HDD when prices normalize)?
-Video Card: I'm aiming for a single-card setup, probably nVidia. Is this one a good choice for cost vs long-term performance?
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Seagate's fine.
Just go external for now, yeah.
That's a very solid card, though with a $1200.00 you might be able to fit more horsepower in if you wanted to. If you have a rough list in mind, post that and we can take a look at what exactly you're looking to get for that kind of money.
Air cooling is your CPU is universally more cost-effective than closed loop water cooling, purely of terms of dollars spent vs. temps achieved. Closed-loop water cooling can potentially be quieter, it has some clearance advantages (your RAM can be as big as you'd like it to be) and some disadvantages (some cases have fan placement issues depending on the size of the radiator, the fans you use and how many of them are on the rad) and I'd say that the kits I prefer (Corsair H60, H80, H100) are probably easier to install than the majority of air coolers. If you're willing to spend H80/H100 money, you'll get very good cooling performance, but the same temps will cost you less if you're comfortable with air cooling.
If you're using barb fittings, pick a colour and use silicone automotive heater hose. Compression fittings you can use shitty clear plastic tubing with.
"If you don't know who Kendra is, I'm officially not speaking to you."
Current Playthroughs: Neverwinter Closed Beta|Let's Build! Sim City
What's the difference? If you're using barbs, you should be using clamps, so standard tubing should be fine.
"If you don't know who Kendra is, I'm officially not speaking to you."
They're a good pick for data drives that don't need high throughput, as the lowered cost, as well as less heat/power consumption are bonuses. As a system drive or an app/gaming drive I'd stick with something in the 7200rpm range, if you can't spring for an SSD.
Behance Portfolio I Amazonian I PSN- Subtle_Ties | 3DS: 3840-5210-2008 (Subtle)