My sorta-pot-painting: I dip a wet brush (not damp, wet) into the pot, take a few strokes on the lids of my paints to get rid of the excess, and then apply brush to the model. If I needed more I'd go back to the pot lid and then repeat the process. If the paint dried on the lid, I'd repeat the process.
So I was still basically thinning the paints to get the consistency I needed but was also technically painting from the pot.
I do this when I have a quick detail to paint and can't be bothered with my wet palette. Mostly I use my wet palette though.
Altmann, Sharp, et all, your insistence on using a palette is holding you back as painters. Your models will never reach the next level unless you start painting from pots.
The idea of not painting from pots was just invented by the palette lobby to increase lagging sales.
I haven't painted anything in about two months now. First I was waiting for my airbrush so I could prime. Now I've just been priming stuff but can't decide what I actually want to paint.
Also, airbrush is awesome for priming. Except when the primer / Windex mixture is too far on the "Windex" side (or not mixed properly) and all that comes out is muddy Windex.
I know warstore sells the Vallejo grey airbrush primer, but anyone know a US store that sells the black?
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
edited April 2012
Wait, you chuckleheads still use physical… devices… to paint? Heathens! The Mind Arts are truly the only way to paint anything; a true master can apply monomolecular layers with but a blink.
I use my eye lashes as a brush and actually do apply layers with a blink of the eye.
3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited April 2012
Well crap. I need some more varnish. I've got a unit of Termagants, a unit of Warriors, some Gargoyles and a Carnifex to seal. The can of Dullcote I have at the moment is nearly done.
Anyone have experience with Army Painters matt varnish? I've heard it's not quite as matt as Dullcote, but if I can get 4x as much for the same price, I'll go that direction.
-Loki- on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Anyone have experience with Army Painters matt varnish? I've heard it's not quite as matt as Dullcote, but if I can get 4x as much for the same price, I'll go that direction.
It's satin.
Anymore I just use brush-on varnish. It's like $13 for a jug that's going to last me forever at Michael's. Plus none of the issues that go along with sprays.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I bought some ceramite white base and some of the yellow glaze. I'm going to try to make myself do a test model this weekend to see how Imperial Fisty that combo looks.
I had the spare that I was going to sell but then I looked at one of them I was currently using - all glue scarred, covered in ugly-panels-to-hide=greater-ugliness - and decided bite the bullet and paint the new one while turfing the old one.
tzeentchlingDoctor of RocksOaklandRegistered Userregular
I paint from pot lids, though I load up the brush and then dip it in water to thin to what I need. Dropper bottles, don't really care if I get more than I need, it's like a drop or two of paint, seriously. Except when the tip is clogged and I squeeze and then all of a sudden a whole bunch comes out at once. That annoys me.
Assembled Asharah, minus the backpack. Haven't decided if I want it on her at all, it feels a bit distracting.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Question for the magnetisers out there. How do you stop the contact surfaces getting damaged? First I tried just painitng over the surfaces, but it would chip. Then I tried applying a layer of varnish, but that just seems to make the surfaces stick and peels the varnish off eventually. Do you just live with the contact surfaces getting damaged since, well, people won't see it?
Heavily varnish the contact area and the surrounding area. It doesn't matter what people won't see, but you want to make sure the chips don't end up tearing the paint around it and causing damage people WILL see.
But you, pig, are a lucky one. Tell us what we wish to know, and you may yet keep your bacon.
Nemlock for online gaming
thin thin thin layer of green stuff over the magnets. Stop damage on the contact point, and gives the added benefit of giving the magnets some traction so they don't spin around freely for heavier arms and such
The following people are amazing and I love them: Wildcat, Timspork, Kias, Denada, susan, Sharp101, [GHSC]Ryctor, Matev, Matrias, ItBurns, Slapnuts, Dayspring, see317, and the unknown poster that sent me a box of Death Company! If you get them as Santees you should buy them amazing things!
There's also one with a beard. Chapter house's doors are kind of strange.
think he put the half-diamonds on because the sculptor had such trouble with the top part of thee wolf skull. The ones he didn't hat up, I had to sculpt over all of them because the anatomy on the skulls were so bad.
I hate you Matrias cause those rhinos are so awesome
The following people are amazing and I love them: Wildcat, Timspork, Kias, Denada, susan, Sharp101, [GHSC]Ryctor, Matev, Matrias, ItBurns, Slapnuts, Dayspring, see317, and the unknown poster that sent me a box of Death Company! If you get them as Santees you should buy them amazing things!
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Posts
"Oh what a day, what a LOVELY DAY!"
I do this when I have a quick detail to paint and can't be bothered with my wet palette. Mostly I use my wet palette though.
I haven't painted anything in about two months now. First I was waiting for my airbrush so I could prime. Now I've just been priming stuff but can't decide what I actually want to paint.
Also, airbrush is awesome for priming. Except when the primer / Windex mixture is too far on the "Windex" side (or not mixed properly) and all that comes out is muddy Windex.
I know warstore sells the Vallejo grey airbrush primer, but anyone know a US store that sells the black?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Anyone have experience with Army Painters matt varnish? I've heard it's not quite as matt as Dullcote, but if I can get 4x as much for the same price, I'll go that direction.
It's satin.
Anymore I just use brush-on varnish. It's like $13 for a jug that's going to last me forever at Michael's. Plus none of the issues that go along with sprays.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I had the spare that I was going to sell but then I looked at one of them I was currently using - all glue scarred, covered in ugly-panels-to-hide=greater-ugliness - and decided bite the bullet and paint the new one while turfing the old one.
Man, fuck I hate painting rhinos. fuck fuck fuck.
this is how I feel about painting rhinos
I drink the paint and piss it all over my men
You don't want to know the next step.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Straight from the potty.
Think they're called "Dark Temple" or somesuch.
http://www.voodooworx.co.uk/Product Pages/products/Gaming Bases/gaming_bases_main.htm
The Alien Temple bases.
Squad 1:
Squad 2:
Squad 2's CO (his warstaff covered to much detail to be pictured together):
Nemlock for online gaming
Here's some photos of the rhinos. They're all stupid. The one I just finished is the one labeled Valhalm.
Here's some close ups of doors I used trying to make the stupid, boring rhinos look less stupid and boring.
They're still stupid.
(really dislike painting rhinos)
Did salvage the Forge World doors, though. I'll use whats left for scenery.
think he put the half-diamonds on because the sculptor had such trouble with the top part of thee wolf skull. The ones he didn't hat up, I had to sculpt over all of them because the anatomy on the skulls were so bad.
Hey, I have to ask: your sigfile, the strangly dwarves - where's that from?
edit: I'm an idiot, should have sent PM.
Also I cn't unsee the wizard-wolf door now. Thanks, Dayspring
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Picking up the new GW black tomorrow and I'll go over the base rims again.
And seriously WTF is up with VGC black being super glossy?
Reaper black FTW.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705