If it can be helped, I suggest you do your study work with pencil and paper. There are certain elements in digital work (e.g. undo button) that can lead you to develop sloppy habits.[/QUOTE]
I'm just starting with my tablet but I have to agree. The undo button is a dangerous siren.
Since starting with the tablet I have noticed that apparantly I make my long strokes through a series of little strokes I overlay across and atop one another. It looks fine on paper when I am using pencil but horrendous on the tablet. Guess I have to see how to remedy this. It also undermines working with ink (the suggestions y'all gave were fantastic, I am loving my Microns). The effect looks dandy when I am using the thinnest pen but not nearly so nice when moving up a thickness. Also have to work on my 'inking anxiety'. Always worried I'mma screw up. I know I can fix it later on the computer but I'd much rather not do that; I don't want to develop bad inking habits and I want my final piece to look presentable.
That said, some correction fluid would be nice, mistakes in stroke are inevitable. Maybe no one else can see them but I can, and if I can fix it on paper so it looks better so be it. Surely Bic isn't my only option
That'll work, as long as he doesn't then want to color in behind the image, or would have different line colors in the same image without doing it with selections/sliders.
What I'd suggest is this:
1. Use this Photoshop action to remove the white of the lineart layer so you can color behind it cleanly using "Normal" instead of "Multiply". Note that the lineart layer has to be named "Layer 1" for it to work.
2. Create a new layer above the lineart layer. Leave it set to "Normal".
3. With the new layer selected, hit Ctrl-G. This sets the new layer to use the underlying layer's transparency as a mask automatically. (This is the case in PS7-CS2 at least, I don't know if they've changed how this works in recent years).
4. Paint your lineart colors on this new layer. Viola, clean linework that can be colored as you wish, without effecting the underlying color layers.
I'm a bit late, but I need you to know that I am forever indebted to you for this and I will do anything you wish.
So dumb question for someone is just getting started, but I've got the money to spend, so I'm trying to decide between a Wacom Bamboo Fun, or a medium Intuos4. Is the Intuos worth the extra $100?
Alt: is the Bamboo Fun too big and should I just go with the regular Bamboo Pen & Touch for $100 less?
You're going to get wildly differing opinions on this subject, but I'd say the Intuos4 Medium is certainly worth the extra money. A MUCH better pen, more pressure sensitivity, tilt, better drawing surface, and fancy touch strips (which are much more conveniently placed)... I'd say it's worth the investment.
I also think a medium-sized tablet is a good size to start with. I started with a 4x5, but it very quickly became too cramped for what I was trying to do. It's more money up front to go bigger, but you're saving in the long run.
EDIT: Also, something very important that they leave out: the Bamboo Fun does not include a tablet pen or mouse due to that stupid gesture thing.
General inquiry for those working as conceptual or commercial artist's:
When hired in a studio setting, such as a conceptual artist or modeler or whatever, are salaries affected by what degree you hold such as a teacher's are, or at a fancy pants city office job?
Is my pay as an artist hindered desperately by lacking a degree?
Sara LynnI can handle myself.Registered Userregular
edited July 2010
I'm trying to find the motivation to draw, but it's problematic.
I haven't sat down and seriously enjoyed drawing in about 5 or 6 years. Every time I try to just doodle, I get frustrated. I don't know how to focus on just getting used to the feel of it without getting distracted by how crappy I am.
Anyone else ever take a break this long to come back from it? Or am I boned?
It might help to think of what sort of thing you'd like to draw. If you're just doodling around, you probably won't get anywhere. If you think, for example, "I want to create space ships and space adventures on paper," you have an objective to work toward.
I only recently started taking it seriously, and make noticeable progress every time I try to draw something, even if I'm just sketching random things out of Bridgman. I can't imagine I'm some kind of artistic outlier there.
I havent cracked open my zbrush in forever. I really need to sit down and learn it. Great thing about the software is you dont have to keep buying new versions and the site tells you everything you need to know to get started.
I usually have a lot of things open, though, and on multiple programs...so that could be part of the reason. It still doesn't crash as often as some other versions I've used.
Hello Artists!
I posted in the wrong area before :oops: sorry!
I have my very first Art installation coming up at a trendy local restaurant. I am getting prints made of some of my digital art and wacom scribblings. I'm looking for some information on Large Format Printing. (Eg, printing on canvas or vinyl)
I work at 400 ppi, is that enough resolution? Will my prints be blurry? The average document size is about 1.5 gig. I want large pieces, like 24x48 at least.
I am sorta broke, and the printing places want a lot for the prints - should I go with canvas and then nail it to a frame or should i print vinyl and then mount it? What are the aesthetic differences between printing on vinyl and canvas?
If anyone has any wisdom they can share, I would appreciate it. (I know I could look back at previous posts, but to be honest, I am pretty busy working my graveyard shift right now!)
What size is your original document? You can't blow up a 2" x 2" to 6' x 6' no mtter how high your resolution is. Also, 1.5 gigs? Is this in RGB or CMYK?
What size is your original document? You can't blow up a 2" x 2" to 6' x 6' no mtter how high your resolution is. Also, 1.5 gigs? Is this in RGB or CMYK?
Sorry! Should have posted that. The documents are 20inx40in at 400 ppi in RGB
You won't have any issues when you blow them up. You are well within the safety zone. I don't recommend you give your printer a file that is 1.5 gigs. Save your final, non-layered version into a PDF document that measures the output size you want.
For document size sake, you can also drop down the print quality to 300dpi. Most digital pritners can't out put such a high resolution.
Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'm confident that I can sell most of the prints, but I'm nervous since it's my first time getting anything printed that isn't on a t shirt. What would you say is your preferred material/process when you get digital prints made? (open to everyone, please!) For example, I'm leaning towards 24x48 canvas prints and just getting them printed locally. Is there a website option maybe with reasonable shipping rates that any of you might know of? Help a brother out and I'll return the favor however I can!
I would try to find a place local to you. I haven't ever ordered anything large format online but regardless its easier to deal with matters with someone nearby and being able to make sure they look the way you want is important. They might also be able to give you good recommendations on how to ready them for print or rather what to print them on.
I always print on paper, never on canvas. I can't give you any recommendations. But I suggest you print localy. You can check the quality and you can negotiate.
I would try to find a place local to you. I haven't ever ordered anything large format online but regardless its easier to deal with matters with someone nearby and being able to make sure they look the way you want is important. They might also be able to give you good recommendations on how to ready them for print or rather what to print them on.
I always print on paper, never on canvas. I can't give you any recommendations. But I suggest you print localy. You can check the quality and you can negotiate.
Killer.
Do you find that you're able to sell prints on paper? Do you get them mounted? Do you use a matte finish type paper or glossy? Am I super annoying yet? I apologize in advance. To be honest, my local printing companies have all been very poor at communicating with me or giving me any information at all. I go down there and they ask me to email. I email and they ask me all the questions I'm asking you lol. I live in a small city. Any more info, ideas, suggestions, experiences you've had (negative or positive) would rule.
Usually, I do commercial printing, so I've never had to sell anything, I can't give you advice other than what paper will cause the toner to crack less when you bend it. However, some other guys on the board sell their stuff, I'm sure someone will chime in.
As for me, I prefer matte finish... but only because everyone at work asks me for gloss and I'm sick of gloss.
Re: canvas and vinyl, FedEx Office prints on both, and will stretch canvas prints for you, but their prices are fairly high. Flip side is you could physically review a proof and make sure nothing looks janky.
so here's another dilemma - I can't afford Illustrator *swt
is it possible to get the same crisp lines like the ones in MagicToaster's avatar or, say, a penny arcade comic using PS alone?
so here's another dilemma - I can't afford Illustrator *swt
is it possible to get the same crisp lines like the ones in MagicToaster's avatar or, say, a penny arcade comic using PS alone?
Yes. I believe Gabe does the PA strips in Photoshop.
so here's another dilemma - I can't afford Illustrator *swt
is it possible to get the same crisp lines like the ones in MagicToaster's avatar or, say, a penny arcade comic using PS alone?
Yea, PS will deliver that level of detail if the file is big enough, and 400ppi is big.
If you are trying to tighten up linework from a drawing that you scanned in, everyone has their own tips and tricks.
The program only does the one thing and only in black & white, but if that is what you need it works great. I covert a high resolution bitmap into a EPS and then drop it into Photoshop. It vectorizes your linework and puts it on a layer with an alpha channel.
so here's another dilemma - I can't afford Illustrator *swt
is it possible to get the same crisp lines like the ones in MagicToaster's avatar or, say, a penny arcade comic using PS alone?
Yea, PS will deliver that level of detail if the file is big enough, and 400ppi is big.
If you are trying to tighten up linework from a drawing that you scanned in, everyone has their own tips and tricks.
The program only does the one thing and only in black & white, but if that is what you need it works great. I covert a high resolution bitmap into a EPS and then drop it into Photoshop. It vectorizes your linework and puts it on a layer with an alpha channel.
The program sounds wonderful! Unfortunately, I use a Mac *swt. Anything similar for my OS? Or even a really solid tutorial would be great. I just don't have illustrator and all the best tutorials I find require it.
It's a list of free, downloadable vector editing software.
HOLY @#$%@!%!! this is great! Thank you so much! I knew coming on here was a good idea! I'm gonna spend the day sampling these. Anyone have a favorite?
The program sounds wonderful! Unfortunately, I use a Mac *swt. Anything similar for my OS? Or even a really solid tutorial would be great. I just don't have illustrator and all the best tutorials I find require it.
Inkscape is freeware and will do a good bitmap-to-vector conversion.
Last advice! In Photoshop, you can work in RGB and convert to CMYK at the end without much color shift (unless you're using out of gamut colors)... however, in vector programs, such as Illustrator, I recomend that you work in CMYK mode from the begening if you're going to print.
Working in RGB and shifting to CMYK will result in oddly mixed colors that look fine on screen, but bad on print.
Posts
If it can be helped, I suggest you do your study work with pencil and paper. There are certain elements in digital work (e.g. undo button) that can lead you to develop sloppy habits.[/QUOTE]
I'm just starting with my tablet but I have to agree. The undo button is a dangerous siren.
Since starting with the tablet I have noticed that apparantly I make my long strokes through a series of little strokes I overlay across and atop one another. It looks fine on paper when I am using pencil but horrendous on the tablet. Guess I have to see how to remedy this. It also undermines working with ink (the suggestions y'all gave were fantastic, I am loving my Microns). The effect looks dandy when I am using the thinnest pen but not nearly so nice when moving up a thickness. Also have to work on my 'inking anxiety'. Always worried I'mma screw up. I know I can fix it later on the computer but I'd much rather not do that; I don't want to develop bad inking habits and I want my final piece to look presentable.
That said, some correction fluid would be nice, mistakes in stroke are inevitable. Maybe no one else can see them but I can, and if I can fix it on paper so it looks better so be it. Surely Bic isn't my only option
I'm a bit late, but I need you to know that I am forever indebted to you for this and I will do anything you wish.
Late but thank you.
Alt: is the Bamboo Fun too big and should I just go with the regular Bamboo Pen & Touch for $100 less?
I also think a medium-sized tablet is a good size to start with. I started with a 4x5, but it very quickly became too cramped for what I was trying to do. It's more money up front to go bigger, but you're saving in the long run.
EDIT: Also, something very important that they leave out: the Bamboo Fun does not include a tablet pen or mouse due to that stupid gesture thing.
When hired in a studio setting, such as a conceptual artist or modeler or whatever, are salaries affected by what degree you hold such as a teacher's are, or at a fancy pants city office job?
Is my pay as an artist hindered desperately by lacking a degree?
Not at all.
I haven't sat down and seriously enjoyed drawing in about 5 or 6 years. Every time I try to just doodle, I get frustrated. I don't know how to focus on just getting used to the feel of it without getting distracted by how crappy I am.
Anyone else ever take a break this long to come back from it? Or am I boned?
I only recently started taking it seriously, and make noticeable progress every time I try to draw something, even if I'm just sketching random things out of Bridgman. I can't imagine I'm some kind of artistic outlier there.
please tell me about Z Brush, AC. Anything and everything.
3DS: 0447-9966-6178
http://www.zbrushcentral.com/
artistjeffc.tumblr.com http://www.etsy.com/shop/artistjeffc
OSX and CS. Though I installed ZBrush on my Windows side.
Current Have open:
Trillian
Google Chrome 2 windows
Photoshop
2 Notepad windows
if im working 3D i try to have as few things open as possible to minimize crashing. I don't open programs until I need them.
artistjeffc.tumblr.com http://www.etsy.com/shop/artistjeffc
I posted in the wrong area before :oops: sorry!
I have my very first Art installation coming up at a trendy local restaurant. I am getting prints made of some of my digital art and wacom scribblings. I'm looking for some information on Large Format Printing. (Eg, printing on canvas or vinyl)
I work at 400 ppi, is that enough resolution? Will my prints be blurry? The average document size is about 1.5 gig. I want large pieces, like 24x48 at least.
I am sorta broke, and the printing places want a lot for the prints - should I go with canvas and then nail it to a frame or should i print vinyl and then mount it? What are the aesthetic differences between printing on vinyl and canvas?
If anyone has any wisdom they can share, I would appreciate it. (I know I could look back at previous posts, but to be honest, I am pretty busy working my graveyard shift right now!)
Sorry! Should have posted that. The documents are 20inx40in at 400 ppi in RGB
For document size sake, you can also drop down the print quality to 300dpi. Most digital pritners can't out put such a high resolution.
Killer.
Do you find that you're able to sell prints on paper? Do you get them mounted? Do you use a matte finish type paper or glossy? Am I super annoying yet? I apologize in advance. To be honest, my local printing companies have all been very poor at communicating with me or giving me any information at all. I go down there and they ask me to email. I email and they ask me all the questions I'm asking you lol. I live in a small city. Any more info, ideas, suggestions, experiences you've had (negative or positive) would rule.
As for me, I prefer matte finish... but only because everyone at work asks me for gloss and I'm sick of gloss.
so here's another dilemma - I can't afford Illustrator *swt
is it possible to get the same crisp lines like the ones in MagicToaster's avatar or, say, a penny arcade comic using PS alone?
Yes. I believe Gabe does the PA strips in Photoshop.
Yea, PS will deliver that level of detail if the file is big enough, and 400ppi is big.
If you are trying to tighten up linework from a drawing that you scanned in, everyone has their own tips and tricks.
I use a bitmap to vector conversion program, cr8tracer. It is free and easy and can be found here:http://www.cr8.netfirms.com/tracer.html
The program only does the one thing and only in black & white, but if that is what you need it works great. I covert a high resolution bitmap into a EPS and then drop it into Photoshop. It vectorizes your linework and puts it on a layer with an alpha channel.
The program sounds wonderful! Unfortunately, I use a Mac *swt. Anything similar for my OS? Or even a really solid tutorial would be great. I just don't have illustrator and all the best tutorials I find require it.
http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/12/05/20-vector-graphic-editors-reviewed/
It's a list of free, downloadable vector editing software.
HOLY @#$%@!%!! this is great! Thank you so much! I knew coming on here was a good idea! I'm gonna spend the day sampling these. Anyone have a favorite?
Inkscape is freeware and will do a good bitmap-to-vector conversion.
edit: haha too late.
Working in RGB and shifting to CMYK will result in oddly mixed colors that look fine on screen, but bad on print.