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Custom Built Computer Freezing

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Posts

  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Actually it does crash with the USB WLAN not plugged in. I must have gotten lucky that one day I didn't have it in. I had a couple of crashes before I even bought it, but it wasn't a common problem back then because I didn't have any games to play.

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  • EliteLamerEliteLamer __BANNED USERS regular
    edited April 2010
    travathian wrote: »
    EliteLamer wrote: »
    430 is kinda small.. Whats the complete specs of the computer?

    Go check any number of online PSU calculators to see just how wrong you are.

    I have used them before and I still wouldn't put a 400 something watt PSU in a computer.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Ok been leaving my case open the last few days, but I've been busy so I didn't use the computer much. I got my first crash today. I turned off the computer and touched the chipset heat sink. It was cool to the touch. I'd imagine if the chipset was getting too hot the heatsink would be hot too.

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  • EliteLamerEliteLamer __BANNED USERS regular
    edited April 2010
    That sucks.

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  • 0blique0blique Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Possible, but it would also be cool if it wasn't doing a good job at dissipating heat from the cpu.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Ego wrote: »
    Pretty sure it's ganged/unganged, give unganged a try if it's not already set that way (you might have to move one of your sticks over.)

    Try that before messing with any of the memory clock speed or latency stuff.

    For Memory latency, you'll have to look up the stats on your stick, and then adjust the core ones (CAS Latency, RAS to CAS Delay, RAS Precharge, and active-to-precharge (offhand I'm not sure which of your options represents active-to-precharge) to something just a little bit slower than their specs to see if it helps.
    Only specs I can find:
    Brand G.SKILL
    Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBNT
    Type 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM

    Capacity 4GB (2 x 2GB)
    Speed DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
    Cas Latency 5
    Timing 5-5-5-15
    Voltage 1.8V
    Multi-channel Kit Dual Channel Kit
    Heat Spreader No
    CAS Latency is in there, but I'm not sure what to set everything else you mentioned to. Can I just write down the defaults and reduce them a little bit, like 5%?

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  • FunkyWaltDoggFunkyWaltDogg Columbia, SCRegistered User regular
    edited April 2010
    I'd bet on it being your RAM. For my current machine I got 2 x 2GB G.SKILL that were supposedly rated to run at 1066 but wouldn't; I sent them back and got two more that still wouldn't run at full speed, so I set them down to 800 and decided just to live with it.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    The saga continues...

    Since my last update I've set the memory to ganged mode. Unganged mode was the default. I tried with the memory sticks in 1&2 and 1&3. I tried reducing the following memory settings down one. Either it went from 15t to 14t, or 2t to 1t.

    CAS# Latency
    RAS to CAS R/W Delay
    Row Precharge Time
    Minimum RAS Active Time

    No joy. I had already tried reducing my memory from DDR800 to the next one down, DDR667. I'm about to bite the bullet and send the memory in for a RMA (replacement).

    Any ideas? And thank you everyone who has given me input so far.

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  • EliteLamerEliteLamer __BANNED USERS regular
    edited April 2010
    I'd bet on it being your RAM. For my current machine I got 2 x 2GB G.SKILL that were supposedly rated to run at 1066 but wouldn't; I sent them back and got two more that still wouldn't run at full speed, so I set them down to 800 and decided just to live with it.

    Did you overclock them and set the timing correctly? Some of this overclocked ram is a bitch to get working correctly.

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  • FunkyWaltDoggFunkyWaltDogg Columbia, SCRegistered User regular
    edited April 2010
    EliteLamer wrote: »
    I'd bet on it being your RAM. For my current machine I got 2 x 2GB G.SKILL that were supposedly rated to run at 1066 but wouldn't; I sent them back and got two more that still wouldn't run at full speed, so I set them down to 800 and decided just to live with it.

    Did you overclock them and set the timing correctly? Some of this overclocked ram is a bitch to get working correctly.

    I did indeed.

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  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Might be a problem with ANY of your voltages, including the CPU and north bridge

    Did you fiddle with any of that

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Ok still having trouble. Things I've done since last time:

    Completely disabling the onboard VGA
    Flashing the BIOS to the latest version
    Removing one memory stick, moving other to slot #3
    Changing various memory related settings in the BIOS

    Paladin, how will I know what voltage settings to put them at? I don't want to destroy the CPU by adding too much voltage.

    Also, I remember that I had a problem on the first day, and I attempted to remove the heat sink from the CPU. It wouldn't budge after really trying to pull it out. Could a bad contact between the heatsink and CPU be to blame?

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  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Ok still having trouble. Things I've done since last time:

    Completely disabling the onboard VGA
    Flashing the BIOS to the latest version
    Removing one memory stick, moving other to slot #3
    Changing various memory related settings in the BIOS

    Paladin, how will I know what voltage settings to put them at? I don't want to destroy the CPU by adding too much voltage.

    Also, I remember that I had a problem on the first day, and I attempted to remove the heat sink from the CPU. It wouldn't budge after really trying to pull it out. Could a bad contact between the heatsink and CPU be to blame?

    Wait, you can't remove the heatsink from the CPU?

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Correct. The CPU and heatsink both had thermal compound on them. CPU temps are normal though.

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  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Well first of all, did you change any of the voltage settings in bios? are you using some sort of autoclocking thingie?

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  • StormwatcherStormwatcher Blegh BlughRegistered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Even with thermal stuff, the HS is supposed to come off very easy. I'm sorry to ask, but you're SURE you unlatched/unscrewed/whatever the Heatsink right?

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Piling on:

    Can you force an error if you're hard wired to your network? I still think it's your USB dongle on some level (I'm guessing either crappy hardware or more likely crappy Win7 drivers).



    Ganged/Unganged is likely for running single channel/dual channel RAM kits. Basically, if you're running dual channel DDR, use Ganged. If you're running a mixed set or mixed sizes, run it unganged. I still don't see it being a RAM issue, but I've been wrong before (more on this further down).


    Is the error code the same every time? There should be an option in Windows to not Restart after a BSOD, but I can't remember where the option is (likely somewhere in Control Panel; I'll have to Google it after lunch).


    I had an Abit IS7 board about 7 years ago that would throw random BSODs on me. I ended up upgrading/replacing every component on that system and still had the problem until I trashed the mobo. Harsh, I know, but it's one of the reasons I'm not a big fan of Abit despite their reputation. I'm not saying you have the same problem as Gigabyte boards are usually *very* stable and reliable.


    I can say this. Errors while loading usually point to device driver issues, but could conceivably also point to the chipset or the hard drive.

    Mugsley on
  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Piling on:

    Can you force an error if you're hard wired to your network? I still think it's your USB dongle on some level (I'm guessing either crappy hardware or more likely crappy Win7 drivers).
    Well I've gotten crashes after uninstalling the dongle.

    Is the error code the same every time? There should be an option in Windows to not Restart after a BSOD, but I can't remember where the option is (likely somewhere in Control Panel; I'll have to Google it after lunch).
    I already have that turned on. I only got BSODs after I flashed the BIOS b/c I forgot to reset my CMOS settings, and after I reformatted. Since then they have been straight up crashes to black screen.
    I can say this. Errors while loading usually point to device driver issues, but could conceivably also point to the chipset or the hard drive.
    As of right now I'm gonna try running it without the PCI-E Video card and use the onboard. After that I'm boring my friend's computer and swapping out his HD.

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Black screen and not the BSOD.... I'll have to think a bit more. Kinda points more to video then. I wonder if there is some sort of weird problem that your Southbridge is having deciding whether to use onboard video or your vidcard (even though the BIOS is telling it what to do)

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Well I took out the video card and played 5 Starcraft 2 matches without crashes while loading. That's unprecedented. More gaming will be necessary to say the problem is somewhere between the motherboard and the video card, but it looks like it.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited April 2010
    Success!

    I haven't had a single crash since taking out the video card. The on-board has been working fairly well, with only some lag in Starcraft 2. What should be my next course of action? Should I RMA the video card, or mess around with drivers/BIOS settings?

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited May 2010
    Apparently my PSU doesn't actually output 430W, but 350W according to this website. Before I go out and buy a new PSU do you think this is the cause of the problem?

    Someone at AMD's support forums suggested this exact thing, that the PSU wouldn't give out as much as it said, and that it would be the problem.

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited May 2010
    I've had hit-or-miss reliability with Tt PSUs. Plus, that PSU is reporting only 12A on the +12V rail as basically a "best case." Now it makes sense what you were seeing.


    If you're willing to spend a little, you can get a rock solid one that will last you for a bit. Brands I recommend:

    PC Power & Cooling
    OCZ
    Cooler Master
    Corsair

    Some will disagree, but I recommend spending at least $100 on your PSU. It is the heart of your PC.

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  • lowlylowlycooklowlylowlycook Registered User regular
    edited May 2010
    Mugsley wrote: »
    I've had hit-or-miss reliability with Tt PSUs. Plus, that PSU is reporting only 12A on the +12V rail as basically a "best case." Now it makes sense what you were seeing.


    If you're willing to spend a little, you can get a rock solid one that will last you for a bit. Brands I recommend:

    PC Power & Cooling
    OCZ
    Cooler Master
    Corsair

    Some will disagree, but I recommend spending at least $100 on your PSU. It is the heart of your PC.

    Well I wouldn't say you need to spend $100, but you do need to 1)buy a decent brand/model 2)think ahead on how much power you might want in the future, either 500W (of a good brand) for 1 high end card or 750W or so for 2.

    Also you need to add at least Antec to your list of brands. OCZ seems to have the best deals lately but they involve pretty big mail in rebates which is annoying.

    Anyway, there is advice for choosing a PSU in the build thread OP.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited May 2010
    Thanks guys, next paycheck I'm ordering a new PSU. And I'll research it this time. Now I know to research EVERY component.

    I might as well move up to a quality 450-500W system in case I want to add some components in the future.

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited May 2010
    Good luck!

    You may be surprised what you find, btw. For example, there's an OCZ StealthXtreme 700W on Newegg for $79.99 + free shipping *before rebate*.

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Sorry to necro post but this is the same issue. I finally got a new power supply, and it already crashed 4 times today. I had no crashes for the 2 months or so I had my video card unplugged. I also had my second memory stick unplugged.

    The crashess have the same MO: while loading, screen goes to black, no error #s or anything in the event viewer. I've installed new drivers for video card and updated windows. Also I reset BIOS to default so it could reconfigure everything. Im gonna take out the memory stick tomorrow and try it that way. Should I RMA the video card if it still happens?

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited July 2010
    Ugh! The nightmare continues. I just got a replacement video card from Sapphire and it is crashing again. The bag it came in had a sticker telling me there is an additional power cord to plug-in. The thing is the manual mentions none of this, and neither do I see a slot where any conceivable cord can be plugged into.

    Either I'm the dumbest person in the world, or my motherboard is fubar?

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited July 2010
    Can you post a pic or two of your vidcard?

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  • OtistheGuardOtistheGuard Registered User regular
    edited July 2010
    Image Here, my card has all the same transistors, etc.

    It has the cord going from heat sink fan to the card of course.

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  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited July 2010
    I still think there's simply some conflict between your onboard and add-on vidcards. I have no idea if there were any recent BIOS updates that you can try using or if you can get to a point you can add video drivers.


    If it *is* the board, this is pretty much the process for finding out. I had an Abit IS7 that was finicky for a while: random reboots, weird BSODs, etc. I ended up replacing every other part in the computer -- including the proc -- before finally replacing the board. Only then did the problems go away.


    If you have a friend available to test your new parts, that may help; but I can't see either the PSU or the vidcard being bad out of the box -- too much of a coincidence. Maybe check the mobo manufacturer's forums and see if anyone else is having similar problems...?

    Does everything still work with the onboard card?

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