For reference, what is widely considered the gold standard for both LED and Plasma as of now (50-60 inches)?
For 2013 models, Sony's W900A and Samsung's F8000 lead the LED field. The W900A has slightly richer blacks and colors (both are very close, however), while the F8000 has a better smart TV platform, 3D performance and a little bit more control over certain picture options. Panasonic naturally has great plasma sets this year across the board, but input lag is a concern with the higher end models. Their S60 fares much better in that regard, but it does lack 3D (if you care about that feature) and has a highly reflective screen. Samsung's F8500 is a great contender with Panasonic this year. It's capable of putting out a lot of light to compensate for bright rooms, a noteworthy feat for a plasma display. But it also has high input lag.
I have an Apple TV and XBMC, so Smart TV holds no interest to me whatsoever. I can take or leave 3D, if they still have that stupid restriction where certain movies only work on certain brands.
Multiple picture options does sound useful, but as it stands that Sony TV is ultimately much cheaper and also at a desired size (55').
What is usually the best time to get a discount on a TV? Black Friday? Christmas? Even though I do the majority of shopping on Amazon, a TV is one of those things I may prefer to get at a local store, especially if I need to exchange it for some reason.
Black Friday is a good time, and possibly around the Superbowl?
I do recommend going to a store, too. If something goes wrong it's much easier to just head back to the store and deal with actual people about the issue. That will also give you the chance to see those sets in person.
Between the Sony W900A and the Samsung F8000, you really can't go wrong. Both have very comparable image quality and performance. I do think the latter is a more balanced set now than the Sony W900A (especially thanks to recent firmware updates), but you might have to pay a little more for it.
The Samsung gives you more control over tweaking the image, especially in regards to its motion processing. You can configure blur and judder reduction options separately, and can achieve a total motion resolution of 1,200 lines. A big feature I forgot to mention is that you can upgrade the set's hardware and software each year without having to buy an entirely new television. There's a slot in the back where an Evolution Kit can be fitted. It's like buying a new processor or graphics card for your computer. They run around 300 or 400 dollars when they first launch, but I saw them drop in price by more half only months later.
I also like the physical design of the F8000 more. The bezel is practically invisible. However, the stand is very large. You need a base with a lot of depth and width in order to fit it.
The W900A on the other hand has a Triluminos display. This allows it to produce a greater range of colors, but content has to be created explicitly for it. Sony is supporting that with certain Blu-ray releases. Input lag is also lower on the W900A.
As far as 3D, there's no restriction like that anymore. Any 3D movie will work with any 3D set. The only difference now is that televisions are split between two methods of achieving 3D - active and passive. The latter is generally better than the former in terms of light levels, crosstalk and eye strain. Sony and Samsung both use active with their top sets, but the F8000 is one of if not the best active 3D performer on the market right now for an LED display. I don't see any flicker, the image is incredibly bright and crosstalk is kept to a minimum. I don't experience much eye strain anymore, either. Sony does offer passive 3D sets for models below the W900A, though. The W802A can't match the others in terms of black levels and colors, but with passive 3D and only 16ms of input lag it's not a bad set to consider.
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You actually got me looking more at the Samsung model now. I guess it largely depends which of the two goes on sale.
Also, store display TVs usually aren't a good indicator to their picture quality, since many of them aren't properly calibrated for the store environment, or don't have any calibration whatsoever. I've seen plenty of brands looking like absolute shit on display despite being technically better than the ones that did look okay from a glance.
On the subject, what's the best way to sell off an old TV these days? My '45 Samsung still holds up, especially since it's been professionally calibrated, but there is one problem: the main speakers are a bit busted due to prolonged use, which is why I constantly output audio through my home theater. I would probably do the same thing with the new TV since default speakers in general tend to suck, but I worry this also depreciates the resale value.
I'm trying to decide between a 47 inch sony w8 and a 40 inch sony w9.
I watch TV and game (hence the choice of a sony to go with my pre ordered ps4) in a room that can be quite bright.
I have the money to buy the w8 however as my lounge is narrow, the viewing position while sat back on the sofa is 6ft. I have read that this is pretty close to the min viewing distance for a screen if this size. I worry that leaning forward will result in seeing pixelation in 1080p content.
I could add 20cm of viewing distance by wall mounting but I have stud plaster walls so would want to pay to get it done, probably john lewis for the 5 year guarantee.
I could get the w9 for roughly the same cost (without wall mounting) but only a 40" which I worry is too small. I would like the better blacks and colours, not so keen on the active 3D but I'm not a big fan of 3d anyway.
Any advice?
(A third choice would be an unmounted 42 w8 and spare cash for a sound bar)
It depends on how critical your viewing is. Given that you're comparing two models from the same company, I'd probably just go for the bigger one. In general, Sony is pretty good.
Re: Input lag:
I do most of my gaming on a Dell 2408 on my PC - it measures out at 60+ms, but I don't have any problem playing games. All input lag discussions need to be prefaced with "if you're sensitive to it, then..." - I'm not at all sensitive to it so it isn't something I care about.
It depends on how critical your viewing is. Given that you're comparing two models from the same company, I'd probably just go for the bigger one. In general, Sony is pretty good.
Re: Input lag:
I do most of my gaming on a Dell 2408 on my PC - it measures out at 60+ms, but I don't have any problem playing games. All input lag discussions need to be prefaced with "if you're sensitive to it, then..." - I'm not at all sensitive to it so it isn't something I care about.
It also should be prefaced with the types of games you play. Judging by your post I can tell you don't play any fighting or rhythm games... practically unplayable on anything with more than 2 frames of lag.
If you care about playing those at an elite level, I guess. I played Rock Band for years and the thing holding back my performance was the massive amount of alcohol I'd just consumed, not the input lag on the TV.
Maybe it's less an issue with rhythm games, but while I don't think any of us are "elite" I've been playing fight games like street fighter (etc) with friends for 10-20 years, and input lag can definitely be an issue at more than a frame or 2 of lag.
I've grown increasingly frustrated with my current TV's degradation of quality (static noise that won't go away now), so I finally bit the bullet on this Samsung.
Got 24 months no financing and a free 29 inch TV to boot. Scheduled to arrive on Monday, which is especially great since I get the day off from work (federal job!).
I've grown increasingly frustrated with my current TV's degradation of quality (static noise that won't go away now), so I finally bit the bullet on this Samsung.
Got 24 months no financing and a free 29 inch TV to boot. Scheduled to arrive on Monday, which is especially great since I get the day off from work (federal job!).
Really hope this is as amazing as advertised.
You should pick up a 3D Blu-ray or two for demo purposes on your new HDTV if you've got a capable player (PS3 or standalone)! My current collection consists of Brave, Life of Pi, Hugo, Prometheus, Tangled, Dredd, Star Trek Into Darkness and The Hobbit. They all have exceptional 3D, though my favorites for the effects are Hugo, Prometheus and Tangled. There were actually a few shots in Prometheus 3D that looked so damn real on the F8000. I don't think you'll be displeased.
The Lion King, Avatar and The Wizard of Oz are also suppose to be quite good in 3D. Those are on my shortlist. I'm really looking forward to seeing Gravity in that format, too, since there are no nearby theaters that offer it. I'm going to have to wait for the Blu-ray release.
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toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered Userregular
back in '09 when I bought my TV, the bar for quality was Panosonic plasmas, and I love my plasma, I just need a bigger one now
Mine's a 42 inch 720p
My target is mid-50's 1080p
Are LEDs competitive now in image quality?
Price range, 700-1000
Panasonic plasmas are still considered the best. Plasma still beats out LCD/LED in terms of picture quality and accuracy. If you want the best picture you can afford in your price range you need a Panasonic P50ST60: 50in 1080P $1000. Cnet has rated it their strongest TV recommendation ever. Only 3 TV's have a better picture: Panasonic ZT and VT series, and Samsungs highest end plasma, all of which are several more times expensive. If you really want something bigger, you can take a step down to the Panasonic P60S60: 60in 1080P $1000 (the 60in ST60 is about $1300). It doesn't have as good of a picture quality but still miles ahead of equal priced LCDs. But really, any 1080P plasma in your price and size range is going to be a great TV. The ones I listed are the "best," but you can't go wrong with a current plasma and it will definitely be an upgrade for you.
Got a message from amazon that my payment option was declined. Apparently even though I was approved for the card that offers 2 years no finance, the credit limit isn't high enough to purchase the TV, which makes the whole application process pointless.
Amazon gave me a number to call for Chase, which I will do so on my break, but I still have a Best Buy card that gives 24 month no financing, so I might stop by after work and pick it up.
Only issue is tax plus I miss out on an additional 29 inch TV Amazon is including for free. I'll have to decide between both store options assuming I can get this Chase issue sorted, and also attempt to get a BB salesman to toss something extra if I go with them.
Got a message from amazon that my payment option was declined. Apparently even though I was approved for the card that offers 2 years no finance, the credit limit isn't high enough to purchase the TV, which makes the whole application process pointless.
Amazon gave me a number to call for Chase, which I will do so on my break, but I still have a Best Buy card that gives 24 month no financing, so I might stop by after work and pick it up.
Only issue is tax plus I miss out on an additional 29 inch TV Amazon is including for free. I'll have to decide between both store options assuming I can get this Chase issue sorted, and also attempt to get a BB salesman to toss something extra if I go with them.
Got a message from amazon that my payment option was declined. Apparently even though I was approved for the card that offers 2 years no finance, the credit limit isn't high enough to purchase the TV, which makes the whole application process pointless.
Amazon gave me a number to call for Chase, which I will do so on my break, but I still have a Best Buy card that gives 24 month no financing, so I might stop by after work and pick it up.
Only issue is tax plus I miss out on an additional 29 inch TV Amazon is including for free. I'll have to decide between both store options assuming I can get this Chase issue sorted, and also attempt to get a BB salesman to toss something extra if I go with them.
You could always save up for a new TV, instead.
I need a TV now, though.
Seems there's no way to raise the credit limit for the Amazon card, so I've got the TV scheduled for pick up at Best Buy. I'll see if I can't get a little something extra from a salesman, but I just want to have a nice new TV ready to go today.
So does that 24 months no interest thing work if you already have an amazon card, or only if you apply for a new one? I got one that I never use a few years ago, and since panasonic is apparently ditching the plasma game, it might be now or never...
I couldn't tell you. I thought I already had an Amazon card, but I guess that one was closed long ago. Regardless, the credit limit was too low so I ultimately picked up that same TV from Best Buy. Fortunately they also had that free TV promotion, so maybe I can take a couple hundred off the final price by selling it. Clerk also bumped off an extra $10 off, which is better than nothing. They also said that as a Rewardzone member I'm entitled to a free professional calibration, so I'll definitely call about that after a week or two (since you need to watch the TV for X amount of hours).
Anyway, it's going to take several days and tinkering for me to make any final impressions, but from the little time I've spent with it:
1. Wind Waker HD in auto motion plus: Holy Shit
2. Uncharted 3 in 3D : Holy Shit
3. Attack on Titan in (simulated) 3D and auto motion plus: my face when.
That said, I've got two technical related questions I'd like to inquire about.
1. When switching sources, I keep getting this annoying message that I have to hit OK to dismiss (it eventually goes away after about a minute). Is there a way to disable it?
2. Is there also a way to disable the little light that illuminates the Samsung logo in the bottom? It's a minor thing, but when watching stuff with subtitles (and in 3D) my eyes tend to focus on that lettering. I suppose I could just apply a black tape over it, but I'd rather just turn it off if possible.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Yeah there's almost always an option to turn off any front panel lights so they aren't a distraction. You'll have to dig through the settings to find it, but it should be in there.
Managed to turn it off thanks to Dashui. Still would like to remove that annoying STB message.
I'm at work now so I can't mess with the TV for a while, but I've got a few more questions that I hope will speed things along.
1. Are there any super cheap TV stands? This TV is sitting on my shelf just fine, but I think I would like it to be about a foot or two higher, since I use it in front of my bed. On my last TV I built a makeshift stand with wood from Home Depot, so I could do that again, but if there's a cheap alternative I wouldn't mind paying for the convenience.
2. Regarding auto motion plus, is it possible to find a universal setting that can accommodate most games/movies, or is it entirely a case-by-case basis? I tried the smooth option on Wind Waker HD and was nearly blown away, but on GTA V it was a hot mess.
3. I came to the sad realization that I do not own any 3D movies. Is there a cheap option to getting single disc 3D versions of Blu Ray movies I already own?
Otherwise I'll probably make The Hobbit EE and Pacific Rim my first 3D purchases.
4. Is there also a way to have the simulated 3D option shut off automatically, or do I have to manually switch it off every time?
5. I was also wondering if there was a way to instantly switch between using the TV speakers and my home theater. Basically, is there a way to tell the TV "hey, I want to switch the audio to the HT" and have it automatically drop the volume down to 0?
6. Lastly, I'm open to calibration suggestions. I'm all for a popping and colorful image, so any options that offer the deepest blacks and colors is what I'd like to shoot for.
1. Monoprice
4. All tvs I've played with you have to turn it off.
5. Not that I know of. If you have all your AV devices wired into your receiver then you can make everything go HT all the time and shut off the tv speakers.
6. Look up your model in AVSforum and there will be suggestions for calibration. If you enter a service menu be really careful what you do.
I meant general calibration with the remote, not actual calibration. I'm apparently due a free professional calibration which I plan to take advantage of.
Personally I prefer a brighter image when watching TV than when I'm watching movies so I'll just adjust brightness as needed. When calibrating color temp I do by eye. I put in a movie where I have a strong opinion about what the colors should be and fiddle with it til it looks right. For me, the scene in Kill Bill where Kiddo fights the Crazy 88s and O-ren. Dial in the strong yellow and then back it off if fleshtones are too pink.
2. Auto Motion Plus settings for games can be a case by case decision, since low framerate (+/-30) games benefit mostly from Judder Reduction (it inserts new frames between existing ones) while high framerate (+/-60) games benefit mostly from Blur Reduction. Judder Reduction can introduce some ugly visual artifacts in both movies and games, too, and you might not like the soap opera effect it creates with film content. But for films, just leave Blur Reduction at 10, Judder at 0-3 (any higher and I start to notice the inserted frames causing a black fade between some shot transitions) and LED Clear Motion to On. The negative Judder Reduction effects are more common in gaming, so 10,0 and On may just be what you keep for everything. Another option would be to use the AMP presets if you don't want to keep messing with custom values. Clear is basically the equivalent of the custom values I gave you, although I don't believe the presets have access to LED Clear Motion. The Standard and Smooth presets use more Judder Reduction.
The type of game you're playing also matters. You'll want to use Game Mode in shooters or platformers or any other game that requires precision and quick timing, otherwise your input lag will be incredibly high. For something slower like a Japanese RPG, I'll sometimes go back to a standard picture mode and play with AMP enabled. Turn Game Mode on when you can and compare how it feels to those standard picture modes, though. The difference in responsiveness is very noticeable.
3. I don't believe so. I suppose your best bet would be to trade in some of your Blu-rays, if that's possible (Amazon?), and then order the 3D versions to replace them. Thankfully, the 3D releases do come with everything - 3D Blu-ray, 2D Blu-ray, DVD, Digital.
You won't be dissatisfied with The Hobbit in 3D, but check out some of the others recommended, too. Hugo, Prometheus and Tangled are wonderfully eye-popping in 3D. The lantern scene in Tangled is incredible. Oh man, now I'm going to have to go put that in later today. :whistle: I've got a dream! I've got a dream! I just want to see the floating lanterns gleam! :whistle:
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We'll I've already seen Hugo and Prometheus. I liked both, but neither are movies I would be particularly interested in owning unless they were clearanced.
I haven't tried Game Mode yet, but from the onscreen description it sounds like I would be sacrificing the picture quality just to achieve that latency. But do correct me if I'm wrong.
Also in regards to the TV wall mounts in Monoprice, could anyone perhaps direct me to a cheap one that's compatible with my TV and possibly offer a swivel option. I'm talking dirt cheap, the barest minimum as possible.
Game Mode does disable some picture settings (such as Auto Motion Plus), but it leaves you with plenty to work with. And the picture is still sharp. When you can, put in a first-person shooter. Call of Duty in a local bot match is a good option. Move your aim in circles, play a little bit, and take note of the delay between your physical interaction with the controller and how long it takes that action to be displayed on the screen. Then switch to Game Mode to compare. It will be worlds different.
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Also in regards to the TV wall mounts in Monoprice, could anyone perhaps direct me to a cheap one that's compatible with my TV and possibly offer a swivel option. I'm talking dirt cheap, the barest minimum as possible.
One of these that will support your tv's weight and vesa mount spaces (yours probably has 400x400, but check the tech specs).
What would be the easiest way to measure whether a mount will support my TV or not? Just the measurements and weight? I don't need to worry about compatible slots behind the TV or anything?
I'd probably want something that would let me adjust the TV both vertically and horizontally. I know we're heading to Costco in the weekend, so maybe I can find something there at a comparable price?
I haven't seen dedicated tv wall mounts at Costco (I go pretty much weekly). Closest I've seen is a tv stand with a built in tv mount, and that was either $200 or $300.
It's going to be real tough to beat monoprice pricing. For weight just make sure the mount is rated for the weight handily. As to whether or not it will fit your tv, find out the VESA mount spacing. VESA is the standard used for this purpose. It's usually 100x100, 200x200, 400x400 etc. The numbers are the spacing in millimeters for bolt-holes in the back of your flat screen. Some mounts will directly attach to the bolt holes on the back of your tv, and for some mounts you attach a mounting plate or brackets to the VESA holes and then attach the plate or brackets (w/tv attached to it) to the wall mount. If the mount says can fit your VESA mount spacing then it'll fit.
If the VESA bolts come with the wall mount then test the bolt (gently screw it in) before mounting anything or torquing it down. You don't want to drive a bolt through your screen.
Tilt and swivel are pretty easy to get cheap. Mounts with "full motion" or "full articulation" may allow you to push/pull the tv in and out a bit or to rotate the tv to some degree, and they will cost a bit more. I haven't seen mounts that allow you to move the tv "vertically" (not tilt) except for some pretty expensive free-standing gear. Not saying there isn't something reasonable out there; I just don't know about them.
If you get a mount that anchors the tv to the wall with something that looks like an arm, then I recommend buying something a bit over-engineered. I've seen some real cheap ones not support the tv properly. In those situation I could see perpendicular lines correlating with the VESA bolt holes showing up slightly brighter than the rest of the screen.
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toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered Userregular
1. Monoprice
4. All tvs I've played with you have to turn it off.
5. Not that I know of. If you have all your AV devices wired into your receiver then you can make everything go HT all the time and shut off the tv speakers. 6. Look up your model in AVSforum and there will be suggestions for calibration. If you enter a service menu be really careful what you do.
This a thousand times. I bought a cheapo $500 Samsung PN51D450 plasma off Amazon about two years ago because of the owner's thread on AVS. Its only 1360x768 but let me tell you, the picture quality after calibrating it using other users settings made it look like a much higher end panel. I was hesitant about getting a 720P TV but after reading reviews and seeing what everyone was saying on AVS I was sold.
Haven't extensively followed a guide yet, since I would like to cater to my own preferences first and foremost (I like rich colors with everything to have a glossiness to it, in addition to rich blacks). Some postings I've seen insist on a low brightness setting and a Warm temperature, which both sound like madness to me.
I could use some recommended settings for the 3D content though. I watched some of Immortals on Netflix via my PS3. Pretty damn impressive, though with some 3D content I've seen the picture sometimes gets a bit too dark in dark scenes.
Haven't extensively followed a guide yet, since I would like to cater to my own preferences first and foremost (I like rich colors with everything to have a glossiness to it, in addition to rich blacks). Some postings I've seen insist on a low brightness setting and a Warm temperature, which both sound like madness to me.
I could use some recommended settings for the 3D content though. I watched some of Immortals on Netflix via my PS3. Pretty damn impressive, though with some 3D content I've seen the picture sometimes gets a bit too dark in dark scenes.
Yeah really it comes down to what looks best to you and what kind of lighting environment you view in. Most of the hardcore calibration settings are for very natural color and designed for viewing in a dark room. A lot of people like the super bright and vibrant look too though. I haven't had any experience with 3D calibration so I won't be any help there. Congrats on the new set though!
Thanks, so far I'm not seeing any problems, and I'm finding myself blown away by some of the stuff I've experienced. I'm also going to give Nvidia's 3D driver a trial run, though I do think it's a bit unfair I have to pay to unlock a 3D option for PC games.
But I won't be truly satisfied until I've got the settings right where I want them. Specifically, what can I do to make the non-blacks more vibrant? There's probably a better option then just raising the color variable.
Resolution question! I have a 1080p tv set that only has 2 HDMI inputs, and with the purchase of my Wii U, I find that I can still use my old competent cables from the old Wii...but it's blurry when I run through them in 1080p, but looks good when I run through the component cable at 1080i.
So, to preserve my limited HDMI inputs, could running the lower resolution component signal do any damage/reduce the image quality on my tv?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Running at a lower than native resolution will never damage your TV. You've probably never even played a video game on your TV that ran at 1080p before. Basically every console game ever topped out at 720p, and most of them usually dip lower than that.
Actually, I think I remember reading that Wind Waker HD was supposed to be one of the very first 1080p console games, but I don't know if that actually came to fruition.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
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Black Friday is a good time, and possibly around the Superbowl?
I do recommend going to a store, too. If something goes wrong it's much easier to just head back to the store and deal with actual people about the issue. That will also give you the chance to see those sets in person.
Between the Sony W900A and the Samsung F8000, you really can't go wrong. Both have very comparable image quality and performance. I do think the latter is a more balanced set now than the Sony W900A (especially thanks to recent firmware updates), but you might have to pay a little more for it.
The Samsung gives you more control over tweaking the image, especially in regards to its motion processing. You can configure blur and judder reduction options separately, and can achieve a total motion resolution of 1,200 lines. A big feature I forgot to mention is that you can upgrade the set's hardware and software each year without having to buy an entirely new television. There's a slot in the back where an Evolution Kit can be fitted. It's like buying a new processor or graphics card for your computer. They run around 300 or 400 dollars when they first launch, but I saw them drop in price by more half only months later.
I also like the physical design of the F8000 more. The bezel is practically invisible. However, the stand is very large. You need a base with a lot of depth and width in order to fit it.
The W900A on the other hand has a Triluminos display. This allows it to produce a greater range of colors, but content has to be created explicitly for it. Sony is supporting that with certain Blu-ray releases. Input lag is also lower on the W900A.
As far as 3D, there's no restriction like that anymore. Any 3D movie will work with any 3D set. The only difference now is that televisions are split between two methods of achieving 3D - active and passive. The latter is generally better than the former in terms of light levels, crosstalk and eye strain. Sony and Samsung both use active with their top sets, but the F8000 is one of if not the best active 3D performer on the market right now for an LED display. I don't see any flicker, the image is incredibly bright and crosstalk is kept to a minimum. I don't experience much eye strain anymore, either. Sony does offer passive 3D sets for models below the W900A, though. The W802A can't match the others in terms of black levels and colors, but with passive 3D and only 16ms of input lag it's not a bad set to consider.
Also, store display TVs usually aren't a good indicator to their picture quality, since many of them aren't properly calibrated for the store environment, or don't have any calibration whatsoever. I've seen plenty of brands looking like absolute shit on display despite being technically better than the ones that did look okay from a glance.
On the subject, what's the best way to sell off an old TV these days? My '45 Samsung still holds up, especially since it's been professionally calibrated, but there is one problem: the main speakers are a bit busted due to prolonged use, which is why I constantly output audio through my home theater. I would probably do the same thing with the new TV since default speakers in general tend to suck, but I worry this also depreciates the resale value.
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I watch TV and game (hence the choice of a sony to go with my pre ordered ps4) in a room that can be quite bright.
I have the money to buy the w8 however as my lounge is narrow, the viewing position while sat back on the sofa is 6ft. I have read that this is pretty close to the min viewing distance for a screen if this size. I worry that leaning forward will result in seeing pixelation in 1080p content.
I could add 20cm of viewing distance by wall mounting but I have stud plaster walls so would want to pay to get it done, probably john lewis for the 5 year guarantee.
I could get the w9 for roughly the same cost (without wall mounting) but only a 40" which I worry is too small. I would like the better blacks and colours, not so keen on the active 3D but I'm not a big fan of 3d anyway.
Any advice?
(A third choice would be an unmounted 42 w8 and spare cash for a sound bar)
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If you look at the THX recommendations it is 5ft for a 50" minimum.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Will size trump quality?
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Re: Input lag:
I do most of my gaming on a Dell 2408 on my PC - it measures out at 60+ms, but I don't have any problem playing games. All input lag discussions need to be prefaced with "if you're sensitive to it, then..." - I'm not at all sensitive to it so it isn't something I care about.
It also should be prefaced with the types of games you play. Judging by your post I can tell you don't play any fighting or rhythm games... practically unplayable on anything with more than 2 frames of lag.
edit: so after some research it seems the 40 inchers aren't sold in America and go for over 1000 pounds in the uk? That's insane.
back in '09 when I bought my TV, the bar for quality was Panosonic plasmas, and I love my plasma, I just need a bigger one now
Mine's a 42 inch 720p
My target is mid-50's 1080p
Are LEDs competitive now in image quality?
Price range, 700-1000
I went for the 47 w8. Arrives on weds, I'll let you know.
It was looking good in the shop, can't wait.
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Got 24 months no financing and a free 29 inch TV to boot. Scheduled to arrive on Monday, which is especially great since I get the day off from work (federal job!).
Really hope this is as amazing as advertised.
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You should pick up a 3D Blu-ray or two for demo purposes on your new HDTV if you've got a capable player (PS3 or standalone)! My current collection consists of Brave, Life of Pi, Hugo, Prometheus, Tangled, Dredd, Star Trek Into Darkness and The Hobbit. They all have exceptional 3D, though my favorites for the effects are Hugo, Prometheus and Tangled. There were actually a few shots in Prometheus 3D that looked so damn real on the F8000. I don't think you'll be displeased.
The Lion King, Avatar and The Wizard of Oz are also suppose to be quite good in 3D. Those are on my shortlist. I'm really looking forward to seeing Gravity in that format, too, since there are no nearby theaters that offer it. I'm going to have to wait for the Blu-ray release.
Panasonic plasmas are still considered the best. Plasma still beats out LCD/LED in terms of picture quality and accuracy. If you want the best picture you can afford in your price range you need a Panasonic P50ST60: 50in 1080P $1000. Cnet has rated it their strongest TV recommendation ever. Only 3 TV's have a better picture: Panasonic ZT and VT series, and Samsungs highest end plasma, all of which are several more times expensive. If you really want something bigger, you can take a step down to the Panasonic P60S60: 60in 1080P $1000 (the 60in ST60 is about $1300). It doesn't have as good of a picture quality but still miles ahead of equal priced LCDs. But really, any 1080P plasma in your price and size range is going to be a great TV. The ones I listed are the "best," but you can't go wrong with a current plasma and it will definitely be an upgrade for you.
Amazon gave me a number to call for Chase, which I will do so on my break, but I still have a Best Buy card that gives 24 month no financing, so I might stop by after work and pick it up.
Only issue is tax plus I miss out on an additional 29 inch TV Amazon is including for free. I'll have to decide between both store options assuming I can get this Chase issue sorted, and also attempt to get a BB salesman to toss something extra if I go with them.
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You could always save up for a new TV, instead.
http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/10/09/us-panasonic-plasmatv-idUSBRE99801720131009
I need a TV now, though.
Seems there's no way to raise the credit limit for the Amazon card, so I've got the TV scheduled for pick up at Best Buy. I'll see if I can't get a little something extra from a salesman, but I just want to have a nice new TV ready to go today.
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Anyway, it's going to take several days and tinkering for me to make any final impressions, but from the little time I've spent with it:
1. Wind Waker HD in auto motion plus: Holy Shit
2. Uncharted 3 in 3D : Holy Shit
3. Attack on Titan in (simulated) 3D and auto motion plus: my face when.
That said, I've got two technical related questions I'd like to inquire about.
1. When switching sources, I keep getting this annoying message that I have to hit OK to dismiss (it eventually goes away after about a minute). Is there a way to disable it?
2. Is there also a way to disable the little light that illuminates the Samsung logo in the bottom? It's a minor thing, but when watching stuff with subtitles (and in 3D) my eyes tend to focus on that lettering. I suppose I could just apply a black tape over it, but I'd rather just turn it off if possible.
Edit: Thanks @Dashui for answering question 2.
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I'm at work now so I can't mess with the TV for a while, but I've got a few more questions that I hope will speed things along.
1. Are there any super cheap TV stands? This TV is sitting on my shelf just fine, but I think I would like it to be about a foot or two higher, since I use it in front of my bed. On my last TV I built a makeshift stand with wood from Home Depot, so I could do that again, but if there's a cheap alternative I wouldn't mind paying for the convenience.
2. Regarding auto motion plus, is it possible to find a universal setting that can accommodate most games/movies, or is it entirely a case-by-case basis? I tried the smooth option on Wind Waker HD and was nearly blown away, but on GTA V it was a hot mess.
3. I came to the sad realization that I do not own any 3D movies. Is there a cheap option to getting single disc 3D versions of Blu Ray movies I already own?
Otherwise I'll probably make The Hobbit EE and Pacific Rim my first 3D purchases.
4. Is there also a way to have the simulated 3D option shut off automatically, or do I have to manually switch it off every time?
5. I was also wondering if there was a way to instantly switch between using the TV speakers and my home theater. Basically, is there a way to tell the TV "hey, I want to switch the audio to the HT" and have it automatically drop the volume down to 0?
6. Lastly, I'm open to calibration suggestions. I'm all for a popping and colorful image, so any options that offer the deepest blacks and colors is what I'd like to shoot for.
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4. All tvs I've played with you have to turn it off.
5. Not that I know of. If you have all your AV devices wired into your receiver then you can make everything go HT all the time and shut off the tv speakers.
6. Look up your model in AVSforum and there will be suggestions for calibration. If you enter a service menu be really careful what you do.
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The type of game you're playing also matters. You'll want to use Game Mode in shooters or platformers or any other game that requires precision and quick timing, otherwise your input lag will be incredibly high. For something slower like a Japanese RPG, I'll sometimes go back to a standard picture mode and play with AMP enabled. Turn Game Mode on when you can and compare how it feels to those standard picture modes, though. The difference in responsiveness is very noticeable.
3. I don't believe so. I suppose your best bet would be to trade in some of your Blu-rays, if that's possible (Amazon?), and then order the 3D versions to replace them. Thankfully, the 3D releases do come with everything - 3D Blu-ray, 2D Blu-ray, DVD, Digital.
You won't be dissatisfied with The Hobbit in 3D, but check out some of the others recommended, too. Hugo, Prometheus and Tangled are wonderfully eye-popping in 3D. The lantern scene in Tangled is incredible. Oh man, now I'm going to have to go put that in later today. :whistle: I've got a dream! I've got a dream! I just want to see the floating lanterns gleam! :whistle:
I haven't tried Game Mode yet, but from the onscreen description it sounds like I would be sacrificing the picture quality just to achieve that latency. But do correct me if I'm wrong.
Also in regards to the TV wall mounts in Monoprice, could anyone perhaps direct me to a cheap one that's compatible with my TV and possibly offer a swivel option. I'm talking dirt cheap, the barest minimum as possible.
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Found some calibration settings online. Just blown away by the image, maybe the blacks aren't as deep as some plasma screens but I'm happy.
Twitter - discolouie PSN - Loupa Steam - Loupa
One of these that will support your tv's weight and vesa mount spaces (yours probably has 400x400, but check the tech specs).
What would be the easiest way to measure whether a mount will support my TV or not? Just the measurements and weight? I don't need to worry about compatible slots behind the TV or anything?
I'd probably want something that would let me adjust the TV both vertically and horizontally. I know we're heading to Costco in the weekend, so maybe I can find something there at a comparable price?
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It's going to be real tough to beat monoprice pricing. For weight just make sure the mount is rated for the weight handily. As to whether or not it will fit your tv, find out the VESA mount spacing. VESA is the standard used for this purpose. It's usually 100x100, 200x200, 400x400 etc. The numbers are the spacing in millimeters for bolt-holes in the back of your flat screen. Some mounts will directly attach to the bolt holes on the back of your tv, and for some mounts you attach a mounting plate or brackets to the VESA holes and then attach the plate or brackets (w/tv attached to it) to the wall mount. If the mount says can fit your VESA mount spacing then it'll fit.
If the VESA bolts come with the wall mount then test the bolt (gently screw it in) before mounting anything or torquing it down. You don't want to drive a bolt through your screen.
Tilt and swivel are pretty easy to get cheap. Mounts with "full motion" or "full articulation" may allow you to push/pull the tv in and out a bit or to rotate the tv to some degree, and they will cost a bit more. I haven't seen mounts that allow you to move the tv "vertically" (not tilt) except for some pretty expensive free-standing gear. Not saying there isn't something reasonable out there; I just don't know about them.
If you get a mount that anchors the tv to the wall with something that looks like an arm, then I recommend buying something a bit over-engineered. I've seen some real cheap ones not support the tv properly. In those situation I could see perpendicular lines correlating with the VESA bolt holes showing up slightly brighter than the rest of the screen.
This a thousand times. I bought a cheapo $500 Samsung PN51D450 plasma off Amazon about two years ago because of the owner's thread on AVS. Its only 1360x768 but let me tell you, the picture quality after calibrating it using other users settings made it look like a much higher end panel. I was hesitant about getting a 720P TV but after reading reviews and seeing what everyone was saying on AVS I was sold.
I could use some recommended settings for the 3D content though. I watched some of Immortals on Netflix via my PS3. Pretty damn impressive, though with some 3D content I've seen the picture sometimes gets a bit too dark in dark scenes.
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Yeah really it comes down to what looks best to you and what kind of lighting environment you view in. Most of the hardcore calibration settings are for very natural color and designed for viewing in a dark room. A lot of people like the super bright and vibrant look too though. I haven't had any experience with 3D calibration so I won't be any help there. Congrats on the new set though!
But I won't be truly satisfied until I've got the settings right where I want them. Specifically, what can I do to make the non-blacks more vibrant? There's probably a better option then just raising the color variable.
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So, to preserve my limited HDMI inputs, could running the lower resolution component signal do any damage/reduce the image quality on my tv?
Actually, I think I remember reading that Wind Waker HD was supposed to be one of the very first 1080p console games, but I don't know if that actually came to fruition.