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The TV Thread: More for Less

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Posts

  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    Here's a writeup from Wirecutter that cuts through a little bit of it:
    Last year ProPublica reported on how Vizio TVs tracked what their owners were watching and submitted that data to Vizio. The company then sold that data, along with owners’ IP addresses (but not their names or physical addresses), to third parties such as advertising partners.

    We don’t like this practice any more than you do. But it isn’t limited to Vizio—all TV manufacturers do the same. If you have a TV connected to the Internet, it’s almost certainly tracking some aspect of what you’re viewing. Further, if you use any streaming media services, such as Netflix, they’re also tracking what you watch.

    A recent Vizio firmware update now produces a screen telling you about data the company can collect. What Vizio collects hasn’t changed; the company has just become much more transparent and direct about it, while also making it clear how you can opt out of this tracking. This makes the Vizio sets the best of all the TVs we’ve looked at recently, as virtually all TV makers collect this data but none are as up-front as Vizio and none make opting out as easy.

    The most obvious way around this problem is to leave the TV unconnected and use a streaming media player like a Roku device. Except they do it too. You could get our alternative picks from Samsung, but they now are randomly showing ads in their main bar that we couldn’t find a way to disable in the settings.

    So the only option is to leave all your devices off the Internet and watch only Blu-ray movies (that you paid for outright, in cash). Except doing so would make firmware and software updates for your devices more difficult, because you would have to download each update to a thumb drive and install it manually. Oh, and the Web browser you use to do that is probably allowing pretty much every website to track you, as well.

    Sadly, in the real world there is no way around such things. Check out our post on privacy policies for more disheartening privacy info.

    And here's their post about privacy policies from various manufacturers: http://thewirecutter.com/blog/your-privacy-your-devices-and-you/

    The short version is - anything that streams or connects to the internet (besides AppleTV) has at least reserved the right to collect and sell this data. Vizio is the only major TV maker that lets you opt-out easily, due to the FTC settlement.

  • ButtcleftButtcleft Registered User regular
    a5ehren wrote: »
    Here's a writeup from Wirecutter that cuts through a little bit of it:
    Last year ProPublica reported on how Vizio TVs tracked what their owners were watching and submitted that data to Vizio. The company then sold that data, along with owners’ IP addresses (but not their names or physical addresses), to third parties such as advertising partners.

    We don’t like this practice any more than you do. But it isn’t limited to Vizio—all TV manufacturers do the same. If you have a TV connected to the Internet, it’s almost certainly tracking some aspect of what you’re viewing. Further, if you use any streaming media services, such as Netflix, they’re also tracking what you watch.

    A recent Vizio firmware update now produces a screen telling you about data the company can collect. What Vizio collects hasn’t changed; the company has just become much more transparent and direct about it, while also making it clear how you can opt out of this tracking. This makes the Vizio sets the best of all the TVs we’ve looked at recently, as virtually all TV makers collect this data but none are as up-front as Vizio and none make opting out as easy.

    The most obvious way around this problem is to leave the TV unconnected and use a streaming media player like a Roku device. Except they do it too. You could get our alternative picks from Samsung, but they now are randomly showing ads in their main bar that we couldn’t find a way to disable in the settings.

    So the only option is to leave all your devices off the Internet and watch only Blu-ray movies (that you paid for outright, in cash). Except doing so would make firmware and software updates for your devices more difficult, because you would have to download each update to a thumb drive and install it manually. Oh, and the Web browser you use to do that is probably allowing pretty much every website to track you, as well.

    Sadly, in the real world there is no way around such things. Check out our post on privacy policies for more disheartening privacy info.

    And here's their post about privacy policies from various manufacturers: http://thewirecutter.com/blog/your-privacy-your-devices-and-you/

    The short version is - anything that streams or connects to the internet (besides AppleTV) has at least reserved the right to collect and sell this data. Vizio is the only major TV maker that lets you opt-out easily, due to the FTC settlement.

    People know their browsers track them, and there are things you install that can severely limit that.

    People dont fucking expect their TV to be fucking spying on them, and that should not be expected as an everyday thing. People should be flipping their shit and demanding it stop. You didnt pay 500+ for a fucking TV just to have everything you do tracked and reported and sold.

    that's it, I'm shutting this entire forum down, everyone thank buttcleft
  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    I expect any app to be tracking what I watch and probably selling that data. I don't expect a tv to be sampling a section of pixels to be able to track anything shown on it.

    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
    LostNinjaKetaremp123chrishallett83
  • ButtcleftButtcleft Registered User regular
    Foomy wrote: »
    I expect any app to be tracking what I watch and probably selling that data. I don't expect a tv to be sampling a section of pixels to be able to track anything shown on it.

    it can go more indepth than that, if you remember the Samsung bullshit of listening to everything said in the room and broadcasting it to third parties.

    that's it, I'm shutting this entire forum down, everyone thank buttcleft
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Get over yourself. Registered User regular
    Amazon has a couple of refurb B6 OLED for $519. You guys think they're scam, or trash?

    steam_sig.png
  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    Generally things that sound too good be true are just that. If it's Amazon Warehouse, the return policy is a bit better if it is just totally fucked, but if it's 3rd party run away screaming.

  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    Im thinking about getting a new computer, and im going to go top of the line with all that stuff.

    Im going to need a new monitor for it. Right now i use my 10 year old 46inch 1080p samsung TV.

    Does it make sense these days to get a 4k tv and use it as a monitor? Im not sure if PC gaming is truely at the 4k level yet (i am just about to start the work of putting together a build), but i could easily do lower resolutions on the 4k tv yeah?

    big issue is it really needs to be 46inches+ and not a peice of shit. Can i even get a dedicated computer monitor like that?

    I dont have my computer set up at a desk. I have a good setup where i use it from my couch. This is why i need a big screen.

    PSN: AWATTT66
  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    edited March 6
    If you use your PC from a couch, TVs are your only option.

    RTings seems to think that Sony is your best option for "TV as a PC Monitor" usage: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/pc-monitor/best

    You won't get acceptable gaming performance at 4K unless you build a monster rig, but all of these will take a 1080p signal no problem. The higher-end Sonys apparently will even let you do 1080p@120Hz if you're into that.

    a5ehren on
  • AthenorAthenor Who needs lions when you have a battlecruiser? Registered User regular
    Anyone here have any recommendations when it comes to repairing a plasma TV? I suspect the power board blew a fuse, but I'm deathly afraid of putting it flat to get inside and take a look..

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  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    I removed the back panel on my ST30 to tighten/lock a screw once, but that didn't require laying it down.

    I think some of the concerns a bit overblown (beyond the "moving around a giant sheet of glass" sense, anyway), so I think you could get away with it for a few minutes if really needed.

  • cursedkingcursedking Registered User regular
    So I've been scanning the thread and reading CNET reviews, and I'm still feeling unsure of what sort of new tv to get. I'd like to try and get a 4k tv, 50-55 inches, and under a thousand dollars if I can manage it. Every time I get close to making a choice, there seems to be something terminally bad in the reviews.

    I thought I was going to get the Vizio M Series 50", but supposedly the remote sucks and they're spying on me so I'm not sure.

  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    edited March 7
    a5ehren wrote: »
    If you use your PC from a couch, TVs are your only option.

    RTings seems to think that Sony is your best option for "TV as a PC Monitor" usage: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/pc-monitor/best

    You won't get acceptable gaming performance at 4K unless you build a monster rig, but all of these will take a 1080p signal no problem. The higher-end Sonys apparently will even let you do 1080p@120Hz if you're into that.

    I'm at the point where if I'm only going to be at 1080, then there is no point in upgrading my PC or getting a new TV. (*I may end up choosing this option)

    After some reading I'm considering the option of getting a larger size monitor, say 40in. Now that I am actually in front of my TV (last night was phone post), a slightly smaller screen than 46in would be acceptable as long as I don't go too much smaller.

    Still investigating my options.

    Al_wat on
    PSN: AWATTT66
  • TaminTamin Registered User regular
    in an amazing display of grace and skill, I managed to drop the remote control into a glass of water. Unsurprisingly, it no longer works.

    I am currently very annoyed that television manufacturers do not simply offer remote controls for purchase. I mean, unless they're simply buying the remotes in bulk from some third party, one would think that they could spare a few.

    I bought a replacement off amazon, and it managed to be defective in two separate ways. I guess I misread the page, because I was trying to avoid third party.

    Naturally, I'm a bit afraid of making the same mistake again - is there a site or a supplier you can recommend?

  • captainkcaptaink TexasRegistered User regular
    Seems like an excellent time to invest in a universal remote. I don't have any recommendations on brands but I know TV reviewer guys like them.

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  • emp123emp123 Registered User regular
    I absolutely love the Logitech Harmony One remote I got my mom a number of years ago. I dont think the make the One anymore, and while its replacement is well reviewed I dont think its as beloved as the Harmony One.

    I'm thinking of picking up a universal remote myself and I may just ebay a Harmony One, but admittedly I havent looked all that deep into (info I have on the Harmony One's replacement is from the last time I thought I'd pick up a universal remote).

    At some point its going to come down to personal preference, but I'd stay away from any remote that uses a touch screen for common controls. I think its really dumb having to look down at your remote to make sure you're hitting the right buttons, which will only happen more frequently with a touchscreen since you know, fewer locational clues.

    I'd recommend going with something thats backlit though. Love that shit.

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  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    edited March 7
    The Harmony 650 is a good general recommendation. If you have a full A/V system especially then you should really look into it.
    Al_wat wrote: »
    a5ehren wrote: »
    If you use your PC from a couch, TVs are your only option.

    RTings seems to think that Sony is your best option for "TV as a PC Monitor" usage: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/pc-monitor/best

    You won't get acceptable gaming performance at 4K unless you build a monster rig, but all of these will take a 1080p signal no problem. The higher-end Sonys apparently will even let you do 1080p@120Hz if you're into that.

    I'm at the point where if I'm only going to be at 1080, then there is no point in upgrading my PC or getting a new TV. (*I may end up choosing this option)

    After some reading I'm considering the option of getting a larger size monitor, say 40in. Now that I am actually in front of my TV (last night was phone post), a slightly smaller screen than 46in would be acceptable as long as I don't go too much smaller.

    Still investigating my options.

    Well, if you're willing to spend $$$ to build a machine around a 1080Ti, then 4K is doable. But whether or not 4K is worth it depends on how far away you sit from the TV, etc.

    And if you want to keep up with recent high-end games going forward, you'll be committing to buying high-end video cards every 18 months or so for the next 3-5 years.

    a5ehren on
  • TaminTamin Registered User regular
    traditionally, I am not fond of universal remote controls. My background prefers dedicated tools, at least as much as possible. Less chance of crossed signals or unexpected behavior.

    my aversion (which I am more than happy to ignore if that is your recommendation) mostly comes from my time at phone support trying to walk people through the process of programming one; but also my own experiences of the remote losing the code (battery replacement, whatever), the convoluted 3-finger programming pinch, and even when it's 'working', it never seems to work right.

    these observations are regarding tech from perhaps 9 years ago.

    have they gotten better in recent years? That is, easier to program or more reliable?

  • BlazeFireBlazeFire Registered User regular
    Harmony's are programmed via software on your PC using a USB cable.

    Bolthornemp123ShadowfireJebus314
  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    Tamin wrote: »
    traditionally, I am not fond of universal remote controls. My background prefers dedicated tools, at least as much as possible. Less chance of crossed signals or unexpected behavior.

    my aversion (which I am more than happy to ignore if that is your recommendation) mostly comes from my time at phone support trying to walk people through the process of programming one; but also my own experiences of the remote losing the code (battery replacement, whatever), the convoluted 3-finger programming pinch, and even when it's 'working', it never seems to work right.

    these observations are regarding tech from perhaps 9 years ago.

    have they gotten better in recent years? That is, easier to program or more reliable?

    Harmony remotes are programmed via USB after you tell the program what devices you have and what tasks you want to setup. There isn't any fiddling with codes and the remote has a built-in help system to fix anything that goes wrong.

  • TaminTamin Registered User regular
    Sounds like a win. I'll look into it tonight.

    Thanks!

  • BolthornBolthorn Registered User regular
    Another recommendation for the Harmony 650. It took me awhile to get everything set up the way I wanted it by making minor changes over the course of the first few months when I'd realize I'd like to be able to do something that I didn't have set up. It chews through batteries at a rather quick pace. Every other thing though I love about it. It feels right in my hand. Buttons aren't too squishy.

    Our setup involves the TV, a HTPC, a receiver, PS4, PS3, and a turn table. The remote can't control the PS3, PS4, or the turntable but can at least easily switch to the inputs where they are. The volume control always controls the volume on the receiver when in "watch TV" mode which is where ours lives 99% of the time. You can also go into each component individually too which is helpful for when I need to access the settings menu on the TV or receiver.

    You can do a lot of cool things with the remote too. Reassign buttons, dedicate buttons to specific devices. For the $50 amazon has for the silver one right now I definitely think it's worth the money.

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  • McFodderMcFodder Registered User regular
    This seems to be the general home theatre thread as well, right? I'm trying to work out the best way to re-jig my system to get surround sound from everything.

    Most of my current set up is ~5 years old, TV is a Panasonic TH-P42ST30A, blu-ray player is an (LG HB906TAW but mostly just on receiver duties).

    Hooked up to it we have a PS3 which we use as the media player most of the time, Wii U and now the Switch.

    Everything is plugged into the TV via HDMI, no issues there.

    I have two optical cables running into a manually controlled optical switch, one from the PS3 so we get surround sound when watching Netflix or movies or whatever else, and the other from the TV to pass through audio from the other HDMI inputs. The TV only passes it through in stereo, which didn't bother me too much when it was just the Wii U, but now I want that sweet sweet Zelda immersion from the capital-S Switch surround sound as well.

    The best solution I can come up with would be to pick up a HDMI switch with an optical splitter, to feed all the video into one port on the TV and all the audio into the surround sound system - is there a better way?

    NNID/PSN: Fodder185
  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    Your best option is something like this, probably: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5557 (I dunno if Monoprice sells to Australia, but there's probably an equivalent box available)

    This kind of situation is also why I'll always recommend a dedicated AV Receiver over a HTIB solution. Which is what I'd still recommend here as a best-case if it is possible to re-use the speakers with normal wiring.

    BolthornMcFodder
  • McFodderMcFodder Registered User regular
    Thanks a5ehren, I found this one which looks like the same product from an aussie seller - https://www.homewired.com.au/shop/splitters-and-switches/4-port-hdmi-switch-with-audio-outputs-and-remote/ - nice to have confirmation that it's the right way to go. I could get a 3 into 1 HDMI switch and a separate optical line out splitter cheaper but that would be cheap and nasty eBay stuff and I don't want to complicate things by having multiple connectors if I can help it.

    At some point in the future I'll definitely be looking at an AV receiver setup, but I don't think I could re-use my current speakers unfortunately - looked into this briefly a while back when the HDMI out from the blu-ray player stopped working.

    NNID/PSN: Fodder185
  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    Yeah, that appears to be the same box. It should do what you need.

  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    So after some research and walking into a few stores I'm leaning towards the samsung 55inch ks8000.

    Seems to have the best balance of spec's and price for my needs.

    Havent bought one yet, i was close at one store that had them in stock and free delivery, but im going to check online a bit more before i make a final decision.

    PSN: AWATTT66
  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    a5ehren wrote: »
    Your best option is something like this, probably: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5557 (I dunno if Monoprice sells to Australia, but there's probably an equivalent box available)

    This kind of situation is also why I'll always recommend a dedicated AV Receiver over a HTIB solution. Which is what I'd still recommend here as a best-case if it is possible to re-use the speakers with normal wiring.

    Monoprice does sell to Australia, I just got some USB cables from them this week.

    terriblepostsigpic.jpg
    McFodder
  • McFodderMcFodder Registered User regular
    edited March 13
    Thanks Chris - they're showing out of stock on that particular thing until June, but good to know for the future.

    Edit: Or April at least, because American dates.

    McFodder on
    NNID/PSN: Fodder185
    chrishallett83
  • SatanIsMyMotorSatanIsMyMotor Registered User regular
    Al_wat wrote: »
    So after some research and walking into a few stores I'm leaning towards the samsung 55inch ks8000.

    Seems to have the best balance of spec's and price for my needs.

    Havent bought one yet, i was close at one store that had them in stock and free delivery, but im going to check online a bit more before i make a final decision.

    For what it's worth, I really like mine and am happy to answer questions.

    After having it professionally calibrated I like it even more.

    steam_sig.png
    Al_wat
  • ThirithThirith Registered User regular
    I'm a big fan of my 65" KS8000, but there are some things about it that are pretty annoying.

    I can very much recommend this thread on the AVS Forums, and it's got a handy guide linked in the first post.

    "Nothing is gonna save us forever but a lot of things can save us today." - Night in the Woods
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  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    Thirith wrote: »
    I'm a big fan of my 65" KS8000, but there are some things about it that are pretty annoying.

    I can very much recommend this thread on the AVS Forums, and it's got a handy guide linked in the first post.

    @Thirith what are the annoying things?

    PSN: AWATTT66
  • ThirithThirith Registered User regular
    Bear in mind that the following may be down to user stupidity rather than the TV itself, but at least I haven't found any solutions in the three months I've had the TV. Also, the first two points are probably non-issues if you're not using an AV receiver.
    • ARC functionality: I originally had Anynet+ on. This allowed for ARC, i.e. any sources hooked up directly to the TV could then pass on their audio to the AV receiver via the HDMI cable connecting the two, and it meant that to some extent I could control the AV receiver with my TV remote. Except in practice this meant that both the TV and the receiver could easily get confused, e.g. I'd switch on the TV and settop box (connected directly to the TV via HDMI1), then I'd switch on the receiver, which would result in the TV switching to HDMI4 (the ARC-enabled port), so I'd press Home on the TV remote in order to switch back to the right source, but the AV receiver would then switch to its own Home screen etc. etc. I've now deactivated everything to do with Anynet+ and ARC on both devices and connected the TV and AV receiver with an optical cable, which means that it doesn't do anything automatically, but I also lose some functionality that would be useful if it didn't come with the other crap.
    • As I've got several devices hooked up to the receiver, the TV receives them all via HDMI4. This means that when I use my PS4, the TV says it's found a new source connected to HDMI4 and asks whether it should set it up. Next time I might use my Blu-ray player, so the TV finds a new source and wants to set it up. Then I switch back to PS4, and guess what? The TV finds a new source and asks if it should set it up. You'd think that Samsung is aware of the fact that some people use AV receivers and that as a result one HDMI port might receive data from more than one source as part of a regular setup. It's easy enough to click away the TV dialogue box, but you'd think there'd be a better way of handling this.¨
    • The settings are handled inconsistently and not very clearly. For instance, the Movie mode is handled internally as two separate Movie settings, one with HDR, one with SDR, and the individual settings are saved separately for the two. It doesn't tell you this, it doesn't show it anywhere, but hey, it means you can tweak each setting (which is necessary, as things such as backlight should have different values for HDR and SDR) and not worry about it. However, the Game mode doesn't have that same functionality; whatever settings you've set up will be applied to games in HDR and SDR, which means that whichever you go for won't be ideal for the other. Of course you can switch to Movie mode when gaming and get the two separate, specialised settings (HDR, SDR) - but then you have higher latency, which can be an issue with certain games (Rock Band, I'm looking at you).
    • The YouTube app (and to a lesser extent the Netflix app) is buggy as fuck, which means that half the time I can't even use it. When it works it works well, but sometimes I can't navigate with the remote, sometimes connecting your mobile device to it doesn't work, and pretty often various video thumbnails in a menu are displayed on top of each other, which means that you can't actually read their titles because they're all superimposed on each other. I usually just use the PS4 apps for YouTube and Netflix, which are much more reliable - but as far as I know they don't do HDR yet (at least the YouTube app doesn't), so if you want to watch Luke Cage in glorious 4K HDR, you need to use the TV's own app. (For the record, these aren't made by Samsung, but in the end it doesn't matter who's to blame: it doesn't work, or at least it's fairly unreliable.)
    None of these are major issues, and I'd still go for the exact same TV - but they are annoying, considering how much the TV costs and how easy some of them would be to fix. Especially with respect to UI and user experience, my impression is that Samsung lost interest halfway through and decided to half-arse it.

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  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    Thanks for the write up!

    Those do sound like legit annoyances. I think I should be able to deal though, since I plan on basically using the TV for PS4 and PC only and connecting them via separate HDMI slots.

    Also for audio for my setup I don't go through my TV, I go straight from the PC or PS4, so I should be fine on that.

    PSN: AWATTT66
  • KetarKetar Lacks the basic intelligence required for pretty much everythingRegistered User regular
    I like my KS8000 quite a bit. I don't use an AV receiver though.

    My lone complaint is that the black levels/quality really don't even come close to the quality of the plasma tv we were using previously. Everything else is a step up though.

    I use the YouTube app a fair amount, and have had zero of the issues Thirith has had, so ymmv on those. I use Netlfix close to daily and have also had zero issues with it. On the other hand, the Amazon Video app often fails to connect if it's the first thing I try to use after turning the TV on. If I do anything else first though, or turn anything else on briefly after Amazon errors out, then it works just fine.

  • ClipseClipse Registered User regular
    A bit late to the party, but re: Harmony remotes, I'll add another strong recommendation for the brand. And more specifically, I've got (an older iteration of) the Harmony Companion, which includes the Harmony Hub and a simple remote (no touchscreen, just physical buttons). I'm quite happy with it for my own purposes -- it lets me control things without line of sight, supports everything I've thrown at it (including impersonating a bluetooth keyboard to control an HTPC for a while!), and is simple enough to be usable by guests. I also got a Harmony Elite for my parents not too long ago to replace the Harmony 650 I got them ages ago, as they wanted to move their a/v equipment out of sight. They relied pretty heavily on the on-screen "help" feature of the 650, so I didn't want to stick them with a remote that didn't have a screen; I was worried that not having a physical numpad on the remote would be very annoying for them, but once we got their favorite channels set up they actually prefer it to the old remote. All the other common controls (volume +/-, channel +/-, guide, menu, play, pause, ff, rw, etc.) are physically present on the remote, and the uncommon controls are much easier to access on a touch screen as compared to the half-way solution provided by the 650.

  • Al_watAl_wat Registered User regular
    picked up my 55 inch KS8000 today 8-)

    I've just been messing with the picture settings. Its taken a while, watched a few videos on good settings. I think I have it where I want it, but I'll have to test how it looks in a few games to tweak it.



    PSN: AWATTT66
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  • JihadJesusJihadJesus Registered User regular
    So, I've had the same 37' VIZIO for almost 8 years now, and it's time for an upgrade. I am by no means discerning when it comes to TVs. I'm scouring 2016 closeouts looking to find a 50' or 55' for around $400, but I know I'll have that thing for at least a decade. It looks like the Verizon E series is a pretty good choice, and I assume I'll need 4k since I know I'll have it long term?

    Is there any reason to avoid a refurb? It seems like the stock levels basically only have refurbished left. And CNET seems to say the VIZIO models don't even have tuners which is...stupid.

    If I'm looking for a cheap model in that range, are there any other brands or models I should be looking at?

  • a5ehrena5ehren AtlantaRegistered User regular
    You're probably a month or two late on the good closeout/clearance deals.

    But yes, if you plan to keep the TV for 8-10 years I would recommend 4K. HDR would be really nice to have as well, but isn't going to happen in your price range.

    The Samsung 6300 Series has similar performance to the E-series, IIRC.

    Vizios not having a tuner isn't really an issue unless you are using OTA broadcasts (but OTA -> HDMI tuners are pretty cheap) - pretty much every cable provider that I know of has moved to satellite-style boxes.

  • JihadJesusJihadJesus Registered User regular
    Yeah, after looking into it I think the big feature for future proofing is HDR, not 4K, and that probably means I'm a year or two out before it starts penetrating the more budget sets. I was hoping to upgrade just for size reasons, but I think I'm just going to have to wait it out. Right now it looks like the cheapest entry there is the Vizio M series, and that's a tier above where I'd hoped to buy.

  • ThirithThirith Registered User regular
    The thing with HDR is that while it's gorgeous when used well, it isn't necessarily out of the box. You need to set up your TV, otherwise it won't be particularly impressive; a well-calibrated TV without HDR might pop more than a badly-calibrated TV with HDR. I'm pretty sure there'll be lots of people out there that have HDR because they got a new TV but they'll never know what is and isn't HDR content. As such, I'm sure it'll catch on with AV-heads, but I'm not sure it'll be all that big a factor otherwise.

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