I'm still super hesitant about OLED. I'm reading too many complaints about them in general: burn in/image retention, brightness levels over time, and general longevity/lifespan. I'm coming up on 10 years with my current TV and it still looks great. Not sure if the same can be said of OLED? Granted, those complaints could be from early adopters and the tech really has gotten better now...
Here's how I looked at it. I went to a magnolia to look at top end panels and nothing blew me away like the LG OLED (This was 2017). I also thought about my last TV/Monitor that was a Sony XBR4. I had that sucker for 7-8 years and everything, even the crappiest Insignia TV blew it out of the water as the back light was so dim and colors faded, it didn't matter that it was the premier TV back in 2009 or whatever. So I figured that if gaming was a major part of my life, I was probably going to have to look at replacement's every 5 years or so.
With all that in consideration, I went with the OLED. I figured I don't watch news 12 hours a day and I also don't game for 8+ hours a day, so I wanted the best picture quality I could get. Also factored in budget. Unlike in 2009, I didn't go for the best in the line, but the lower end model, so I could save money to use in 5 years on a new one. I use my OLED every day as a web browser (typing on it right now) and gaming, and have not had burn in.
That said, I was comfortable with my decision. If you're the type of person to be checking every week to see if there is IR or Burn in. Or would worry about it anyways even if you don't see it, then go LCD and be worry free.
Origin ID\ Steam ID: Warder45
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Magus`The fun has been DOUBLED!Registered Userregular
So I'm looking to upgrade from my 2018 TCL Series 6.
Things I need:
Decent size (55" minimum)
HDR
Good upscaling (would sometimes play from my PC which is generally strong enough for 1440p)
120hz native (1440p, mainly)
Atmos support (pass-through)
A good UI
Under $1,000
Things I want:
QLED / Mini-LED
eARC/Atmos support (via TV)
HDMI 2.1
120hz native (supports 4k)
Things I don't care about:
8K
Speaker quality
I'm considering just getting the current Series 6. Perhaps I should wait?
I'm still super hesitant about OLED. I'm reading too many complaints about them in general: burn in/image retention, brightness levels over time, and general longevity/lifespan. I'm coming up on 10 years with my current TV and it still looks great. Not sure if the same can be said of OLED? Granted, those complaints could be from early adopters and the tech really has gotten better now...
Here's how I looked at it. I went to a magnolia to look at top end panels and nothing blew me away like the LG OLED (This was 2017). I also thought about my last TV/Monitor that was a Sony XBR4. I had that sucker for 7-8 years and everything, even the crappiest Insignia TV blew it out of the water as the back light was so dim and colors faded, it didn't matter that it was the premier TV back in 2009 or whatever. So I figured that if gaming was a major part of my life, I was probably going to have to look at replacement's every 5 years or so.
With all that in consideration, I went with the OLED. I figured I don't watch news 12 hours a day and I also don't game for 8+ hours a day, so I wanted the best picture quality I could get. Also factored in budget. Unlike in 2009, I didn't go for the best in the line, but the lower end model, so I could save money to use in 5 years on a new one. I use my OLED every day as a web browser (typing on it right now) and gaming, and have not had burn in.
That said, I was comfortable with my decision. If you're the type of person to be checking every week to see if there is IR or Burn in. Or would worry about it anyways even if you don't see it, then go LCD and be worry free.
Even after checking what I saw today, it seems OLED is the best in terms of reliability. It doesn't even seem to be close.
The use case where it doesn't seem to work is if you plan to leave it on 12 hours a day on a news station that has a static component.
Even on my LG, which easily gets 8hrs (Mix of TV and gaming) usage a day now that I'm 100% remote. No burn-in or other issues.
Ah yeah, the new A series OLEDs from LG arrive this year, but I haven't actually looked up what the price points will be. It's meant to be the new entry level models and lower pricing, but who knows how much lower.
I'm not sure how great the Visio ones are as well, when looking at the reliability thing it specifically mentioned Sony and LG as the top contenders.
Dixon on
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
So my soundbar, Yamaha ats-2090, doesn't seem to let me change bluetooth devices. It always connects to the last paired device if available, there's no way to disconnect from it's currently paired device, and it won't accept a new connection if it's already connected. The only workaround I've found is too turn off the Bluetooth on the connected phone and then try to connect to it from the other phone
That's how most dumb bluetooth devices work. It's annoying, and there's really no way around it. And it's largely why I don't ever talk about the Bluetooth connection on soundbars when I set them up for people. If you want that kind of functionality you're better off going with Sonos or Bose.
So my soundbar, Yamaha ats-2090, doesn't seem to let me change bluetooth devices. It always connects to the last paired device if available, there's no way to disconnect from it's currently paired device, and it won't accept a new connection if it's already connected. The only workaround I've found is too turn off the Bluetooth on the connected phone and then try to connect to it from the other phone
That's how most dumb bluetooth devices work. It's annoying, and there's really no way around it. And it's largely why I don't ever talk about the Bluetooth connection on soundbars when I set them up for people. If you want that kind of functionality you're better off going with Sonos or Bose.
My random Bluetooth speakers at least have the good graces to just swap to any connection attempt. Can make for some fun trolling at parties but at least it's usable. I was surprised that my sound bar that costs 3x my speakers and has a dedicated app can't replicate the functionality.
TCL 5 50" was finally in stock at Amazon, actually from Amazon, so I bit the bullet. Well, it will be in stock on March 28th, anyway. $428. I apparently bought the last one in that shipment, too, so...
Honestly I'm wondering if the TCL 4 43" would have been a better bet, since that's available locally, is on sale at Walmart, and is a more manageable size for my tiny living room.
The 40 or 43" or whatever this TV was replacing was already a bit much, and this adds 10" on top of that.
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Magus`The fun has been DOUBLED!Registered Userregular
Thoughts between TCL R635 and Samsung's Q80T?
The latter seems to review better but is significantly more expensive.
The latter seems to review better but is significantly more expensive.
They're different target markets, aren't they? The TCL 6 is the "high end" budget TCL model, whereas the Samsung Q80T is the middle range premium model from Samsung?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
The latter seems to review better but is significantly more expensive.
They're different target markets, aren't they? The TCL 6 is the "high end" budget TCL model, whereas the Samsung Q80T is the middle range premium model from Samsung?
The Q80T is near the high end, but yeah pretty much this. The TCL 6 is great, but you're playing the panel lottery to make sure you get a great looking screen compared to the guarantee with the Q.
The latter seems to review better but is significantly more expensive.
They're different target markets, aren't they? The TCL 6 is the "high end" budget TCL model, whereas the Samsung Q80T is the middle range premium model from Samsung?
The Q80T is near the high end, but yeah pretty much this. The TCL 6 is great, but you're playing the panel lottery to make sure you get a great looking screen compared to the guarantee with the Q.
Oh god, I didn't even think about the Panel lotto.
Eh, it's been a thing for a good five+ years, and you can always use throwaway email address. You won't ever need it again.
I'm just an old man who's tired of making accounts for every last thing. I especially hate using Google to sign in, because it's like they own every facet of my life - but that's a longer thread for elsewhere.
We have a Samsung TV that's like....six or seven years old. It has 3D, back when that was a thing. I hooked up a Roku Streaming Stick+ and basically we use it as a streaming TV.
Today I bought a Yamaha Soundbar with wireless subwoofer. My goal was to get everything controlled by a single remote control, an old Logitech Harmony 650.
Then I found out the stick is a RF frequency remote control not IR, so the Roku Control won't control the volume. When I used the actual TV remote (using that HDMI CEC Anynet+ thing to have the TV see the sound bar) I still couldn't get everything controlled by a single remote.
I'm thinking of just buying a straight Roku TV from Costco, but I don't know if that set would let the Roku Control change volume and settings via the soundbar with just an audio out.
Also, I noticed Costco's Roku sets are now made by 'HiSense' and not TCL? What's up with that?
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Eh, it's been a thing for a good five+ years, and you can always use throwaway email address. You won't ever need it again.
I'm just an old man who's tired of making accounts for every last thing. I especially hate using Google to sign in, because it's like they own every facet of my life - but that's a longer thread for elsewhere.
We have a Samsung TV that's like....six or seven years old. It has 3D, back when that was a thing. I hooked up a Roku Streaming Stick+ and basically we use it as a streaming TV.
Today I bought a Yamaha Soundbar with wireless subwoofer. My goal was to get everything controlled by a single remote control, an old Logitech Harmony 650.
Then I found out the stick is a RF frequency remote control not IR, so the Roku Control won't control the volume. When I used the actual TV remote (using that HDMI CEC Anynet+ thing to have the TV see the sound bar) I still couldn't get everything controlled by a single remote.
I'm thinking of just buying a straight Roku TV from Costco, but I don't know if that set would let the Roku Control change volume and settings via the soundbar with just an audio out.
Also, I noticed Costco's Roku sets are now made by 'HiSense' and not TCL? What's up with that?
HDMI-CEC is a bit touchy. It's gotten better, especially on newer Samsung and Sony TVs, but it was always kind of hit or miss on whether it would work or not. If you just got the Roku, you could exchange it for a Roku Premiere or Express. Those work on IR instead of the RF that the sticks use. But getting the soundbar to work without its own remote on an older TV is probably not happening. You might get lucky with an ARC connection, but it's very likely to break.
I use them with my old Harmony remote; one for the TV & soundbar and one for the blu-ray and xfinity box.
Nah, the problem is the Roku Stick talks to the remote over RF, so it won't work with a Harmony. You have to use one of the IR Rokus, so Premiere, Express, or Ultra. And those emitters work for the Harmony remotes that have base stations (if you have an old one, I'm guessing it's a 900?), the 650 that MegaMan has is a strictly IR remote with no base. It's the old version of the current 665.
Anyone know off hand if one of those Hisense Roku TVs would let me control the volume from the sound bar via the Roku remote and a simple audio out cable?
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
Not likely. A TV with HDMI CEC featured would be able to command your soundbar volume if your soundbar has HDMI but I doubt you'll get control with a tv remote from just an audio output cable. If you have cable or satellite though, your remote for that might have independent volume control that could be programmed for a soundbar. I know the modern DirecTV remote can do that.
I ordered a 65" TCL Roku TV for a family member. We'll see how that one turns out.
The annoying thing is they have the 55" TCL 5 locally at Bestbuy. If the replacement doesn't work, I'll be asking for a refund instead.
Having said that, I may have annoyed the Amazon customer service rep taking too long to attach photos to an email, and the order I have for the replacement is a $0.00 invoice paid with a gift card. And I don't have an RMA number to send the broken TV back. Weird stuff.
I’m in the market for a new TV specifically for a PS5. I’d like something with HDMI 2.1 and 50 or 55 inches. It’s going to be in a fairly well lit room. My budget is under $1k but the lower the better.
Is the Sony X900h my only option? Is the LG Nano85 as bad as I’m reading?
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
edited March 2021
The X900h is Sony's only HDMI 2.1 compatible unit as I understand it. The Samsung Q80T is the current king of HDMI 2.1 among LEDs but that is out of your price range. From what I can tell your sub-$1k options are the X900h, LG NANO90, and Vizio M7.
The X900h is Sony's only HDMI 2.1 compatible unit as I understand it. The Samsung Q80T is the current king of HDMI 2.1 among LEDs but that is out of your price range. From what I can tell your sub-$1k options are the X900h, LG NANO90, and Vizio M7.
I was looking at the Vizio but apparently the HDMI 2.1 doesn’t work, despite it being advertised, according to RTINGS and Reddit.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
The X900h is Sony's only HDMI 2.1 compatible unit as I understand it. The Samsung Q80T is the current king of HDMI 2.1 among LEDs but that is out of your price range. From what I can tell your sub-$1k options are the X900h, LG NANO90, and Vizio M7.
I was looking at the Vizio but apparently the HDMI 2.1 doesn’t work, despite it being advertised, according to RTINGS and Reddit.
The X900h is Sony's only HDMI 2.1 compatible unit as I understand it. The Samsung Q80T is the current king of HDMI 2.1 among LEDs but that is out of your price range. From what I can tell your sub-$1k options are the X900h, LG NANO90, and Vizio M7.
I was looking at the Vizio but apparently the HDMI 2.1 doesn’t work, despite it being advertised, according to RTINGS and Reddit.
I was thumbing through a lot of the TV reviews and reddit posts and that "HDMI 2.1 port... that is setup actually as a HDMI 2.0 port.... which we might fix later in a firmware update...." seems to have been a common theme the past few years in a lot of TVs, not just Vizio.
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
It isn't just TVs either. A ton of A/V receivers that were hoping to patch in HDMI 2.1 support with firmware have run into problems.
I think the remote on my Vizio TV has died again. This is at least the second time in 2 years which is pretty irritating. They have a phone app I can use in the meantime but I'm pretty sure we are out of warranty. I'm going to call them tomorrow to see what a replacement remote costs but I was curious about any recommendations for a Harmony remote. I only have a TV and and old Yamaha stereo receiver that I would worry about controlling but it would be nice to only worry about 1 remote. And are the Harmony remotes durable? I don't think anything crazy happened to these Vizio ones but they've just up and died.
I think the remote on my Vizio TV has died again. This is at least the second time in 2 years which is pretty irritating. They have a phone app I can use in the meantime but I'm pretty sure we are out of warranty. I'm going to call them tomorrow to see what a replacement remote costs but I was curious about any recommendations for a Harmony remote. I only have a TV and and old Yamaha stereo receiver that I would worry about controlling but it would be nice to only worry about 1 remote. And are the Harmony remotes durable? I don't think anything crazy happened to these Vizio ones but they've just up and died.
As mentioned earlier, i have an old Harmony 915 - just checked; bought in 2013 - that's still going, and they used to be pretty well regarded.
I've been fine with a screenless model; using the app occasionally. Looks like they still sell it for $180 which is too much. Newer model is the Logitech Harmony Companion for $125.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
If nothing is closed in a cabinet you can get by easily with a Harmony 665. They're like $50-60 almost everywhere and they do the job pretty well. If you don't want to go for a Harmony, you can get a used Vizio remote off eBay pretty cheap. They haven't changed their remote codes in like 15+ years so just about anything will work there.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
For basic controls like power and volume you're mostly ok, yeah. Samsung (grrrrr) has done some stuff with menu/settings/home/tools over the years that has messed with stuff. And their older soundbars are famously difficult to program with a harmony if you're using more than one input because they cycle inputs rather than being able to select specific ones.
Ok. It's not a 0 on the panel lotto like last time. It's in one piece and it looks fine.
BUT.
There's 4 dim spots. They're NOT where the VESA screws went in. Also, they seem to come and go... ish.
Not sure if it's worth returning over. Like I said, they seem to come and go. The upper left one also had a dead pixel, but it went away when I tried rubbing away what I thought was a fingerprint.
Thoughts, Arcadians? It bothers me but I'm not sure I want to roll the panel lotto again.
Posts
Here's how I looked at it. I went to a magnolia to look at top end panels and nothing blew me away like the LG OLED (This was 2017). I also thought about my last TV/Monitor that was a Sony XBR4. I had that sucker for 7-8 years and everything, even the crappiest Insignia TV blew it out of the water as the back light was so dim and colors faded, it didn't matter that it was the premier TV back in 2009 or whatever. So I figured that if gaming was a major part of my life, I was probably going to have to look at replacement's every 5 years or so.
With all that in consideration, I went with the OLED. I figured I don't watch news 12 hours a day and I also don't game for 8+ hours a day, so I wanted the best picture quality I could get. Also factored in budget. Unlike in 2009, I didn't go for the best in the line, but the lower end model, so I could save money to use in 5 years on a new one. I use my OLED every day as a web browser (typing on it right now) and gaming, and have not had burn in.
That said, I was comfortable with my decision. If you're the type of person to be checking every week to see if there is IR or Burn in. Or would worry about it anyways even if you don't see it, then go LCD and be worry free.
Things I need:
Decent size (55" minimum)
HDR
Good upscaling (would sometimes play from my PC which is generally strong enough for 1440p)
120hz native (1440p, mainly)
Atmos support (pass-through)
A good UI
Under $1,000
Things I want:
QLED / Mini-LED
eARC/Atmos support (via TV)
HDMI 2.1
120hz native (supports 4k)
Things I don't care about:
8K
Speaker quality
I'm considering just getting the current Series 6. Perhaps I should wait?
Steam Profile | Signature art by Alexandra 'Lexxy' Douglass
Even after checking what I saw today, it seems OLED is the best in terms of reliability. It doesn't even seem to be close.
The use case where it doesn't seem to work is if you plan to leave it on 12 hours a day on a news station that has a static component.
Even on my LG, which easily gets 8hrs (Mix of TV and gaming) usage a day now that I'm 100% remote. No burn-in or other issues.
I'm not sure how great the Visio ones are as well, when looking at the reliability thing it specifically mentioned Sony and LG as the top contenders.
That's how most dumb bluetooth devices work. It's annoying, and there's really no way around it. And it's largely why I don't ever talk about the Bluetooth connection on soundbars when I set them up for people. If you want that kind of functionality you're better off going with Sonos or Bose.
My random Bluetooth speakers at least have the good graces to just swap to any connection attempt. Can make for some fun trolling at parties but at least it's usable. I was surprised that my sound bar that costs 3x my speakers and has a dedicated app can't replicate the functionality.
Honestly I'm wondering if the TCL 4 43" would have been a better bet, since that's available locally, is on sale at Walmart, and is a more manageable size for my tiny living room.
The 40 or 43" or whatever this TV was replacing was already a bit much, and this adds 10" on top of that.
The latter seems to review better but is significantly more expensive.
Steam Profile | Signature art by Alexandra 'Lexxy' Douglass
They're different target markets, aren't they? The TCL 6 is the "high end" budget TCL model, whereas the Samsung Q80T is the middle range premium model from Samsung?
The Q80T is near the high end, but yeah pretty much this. The TCL 6 is great, but you're playing the panel lottery to make sure you get a great looking screen compared to the guarantee with the Q.
Oh god, I didn't even think about the Panel lotto.
How bad is the lotto on the TCL 5?
I'm just an old man who's tired of making accounts for every last thing. I especially hate using Google to sign in, because it's like they own every facet of my life - but that's a longer thread for elsewhere.
We have a Samsung TV that's like....six or seven years old. It has 3D, back when that was a thing. I hooked up a Roku Streaming Stick+ and basically we use it as a streaming TV.
Today I bought a Yamaha Soundbar with wireless subwoofer. My goal was to get everything controlled by a single remote control, an old Logitech Harmony 650.
Then I found out the stick is a RF frequency remote control not IR, so the Roku Control won't control the volume. When I used the actual TV remote (using that HDMI CEC Anynet+ thing to have the TV see the sound bar) I still couldn't get everything controlled by a single remote.
I'm thinking of just buying a straight Roku TV from Costco, but I don't know if that set would let the Roku Control change volume and settings via the soundbar with just an audio out.
Also, I noticed Costco's Roku sets are now made by 'HiSense' and not TCL? What's up with that?
HDMI-CEC is a bit touchy. It's gotten better, especially on newer Samsung and Sony TVs, but it was always kind of hit or miss on whether it would work or not. If you just got the Roku, you could exchange it for a Roku Premiere or Express. Those work on IR instead of the RF that the sticks use. But getting the soundbar to work without its own remote on an older TV is probably not happening. You might get lucky with an ARC connection, but it's very likely to break.
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Logitech-Blaster-Emitter-Harmony/dp/B00ITEPKIG
I use them with my old Harmony remote; one for the TV & soundbar and one for the blu-ray and xfinity box.
Nah, the problem is the Roku Stick talks to the remote over RF, so it won't work with a Harmony. You have to use one of the IR Rokus, so Premiere, Express, or Ultra. And those emitters work for the Harmony remotes that have base stations (if you have an old one, I'm guessing it's a 900?), the 650 that MegaMan has is a strictly IR remote with no base. It's the old version of the current 665.
Had to power it off after taking that picture because it was starting to spark.
Lets see if the replacement they're sending me isn't crushed in 7 different places.
Good luck with the next one!
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
I don't even have the photos handy of the edges of the box, which were ground off like the box had been dragged across cement or something.
The annoying thing is they have the 55" TCL 5 locally at Bestbuy. If the replacement doesn't work, I'll be asking for a refund instead.
Having said that, I may have annoyed the Amazon customer service rep taking too long to attach photos to an email, and the order I have for the replacement is a $0.00 invoice paid with a gift card. And I don't have an RMA number to send the broken TV back. Weird stuff.
Is the Sony X900h my only option? Is the LG Nano85 as bad as I’m reading?
Pft hahahaha
Oh Vizio.
I was thumbing through a lot of the TV reviews and reddit posts and that "HDMI 2.1 port... that is setup actually as a HDMI 2.0 port.... which we might fix later in a firmware update...." seems to have been a common theme the past few years in a lot of TVs, not just Vizio.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
As mentioned earlier, i have an old Harmony 915 - just checked; bought in 2013 - that's still going, and they used to be pretty well regarded.
I've been fine with a screenless model; using the app occasionally. Looks like they still sell it for $180 which is too much. Newer model is the Logitech Harmony Companion for $125.
BUT.
There's 4 dim spots. They're NOT where the VESA screws went in. Also, they seem to come and go... ish.
Not sure if it's worth returning over. Like I said, they seem to come and go. The upper left one also had a dead pixel, but it went away when I tried rubbing away what I thought was a fingerprint.
Thoughts, Arcadians? It bothers me but I'm not sure I want to roll the panel lotto again.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185