Club PA 2.0 has arrived! If you'd like to access some extra PA content and help support the forums, check it out at patreon.com/ClubPA
The image size limit has been raised to 1mb! Anything larger than that should be linked to. This is a HARD limit, please do not abuse it.
Our new Indie Games subforum is now open for business in G&T. Go and check it out, you might land a code for a free game. If you're developing an indie game and want to post about it, follow these directions. If you don't, he'll break your legs! Hahaha! Seriously though.
Our rules have been updated and given their own forum. Go and look at them! They are nice, and there may be new ones that you didn't know about! Hooray for rules! Hooray for The System! Hooray for Conforming!

Computer Build Thread: Embracing Web 2.0 (Sorta)

16061636566100

Posts

  • AlectharAlecthar Alan Shore We're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    PWR_FAN is fine. Go with that.

    As to your previous questions: Yes the CPU_FAN is for the 212+ fan. Yes, you should plug your other fans into those other ports, and yes you can leave the LEDs off. You might want to include them just in case for boot up, you can always take them off later.

    Alecthar on
  • BurtletoyBurtletoy regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Edit: Antec BP550 Plus

    Am I doing this right or wrong?

    Image2-21.png

    Image1-22.png

    It only came with 2 PCI-e 6 pin cords, this one with the red end, and the 6+2 pin hardwired in one that I already have in the HD6870.

    Burtletoy on
  • AlectharAlecthar Alan Shore We're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered User regular
    Looks like you're doing it right to me. You can probably route the modular cable behind the tray too, if you feel like it.

  • BurtletoyBurtletoy regular Registered User regular
    The red was throwing me off, since red/black means positive/negative on everything electrical related that I know of.

  • JAEFJAEF Unstoppably Bald Registered User regular
    So I run a CORSAIR 520W HX power supply. I'm looking to upgrade mobo/proc/RAM, currently running a GTX560 Ti and will eventually look at SLI'ing two of them together. I'm thinking I'll definitely need a new power supply if I want to SLI, but if I just upgrade the guts and wait on the SLI until later, should it be fine?

    Battle.net ID: Jaef#1126 -- Steam: Jaef -- PSN: Jaef -- League of Legends: Jaef
    jaefster.png
  • BurtletoyBurtletoy regular Registered User regular
    Hopefully my last question

    My old DVD-R/RW drive I was planning on reusing is IDE instead of SATA.

    Is there a converter I can buy? Or would it be cheaper to just buy a SATA drive?

    I don't really burn DVD's or anything, I can live without that. But I need the drive for installation CDs

    And hats off to you fine gentlemen for walking me through this.

  • twmjrtwmjr regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    It looks like there are some adapters you can buy, but frankly for how cheap you can get a SATA DVD burner these days, it's probably better to just pick up a new SATA one and not deal with any potential hassles for a few more dollars than the adapter.

    twmjr on
  • JAEFJAEF Unstoppably Bald Registered User regular
    Burners have been $20 for ages. I don't know about you but I'd spend the money just to not have a fat ugly IDE cable in my case blockin' up airflow.

    Hell you can get a Bluray reader that burns DVDs/CDs for $65 if you don't have anything that plays them already and it interests you.

    Battle.net ID: Jaef#1126 -- Steam: Jaef -- PSN: Jaef -- League of Legends: Jaef
    jaefster.png
  • BurtletoyBurtletoy regular Registered User regular
    Oh; theres a local place that's not BestBuy/RadioShack that has optical drives.

    Guess $24 is a good enough price for me.

  • AlectharAlecthar Alan Shore We're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered User regular
    JAEF wrote:
    So I run a CORSAIR 520W HX power supply. I'm looking to upgrade mobo/proc/RAM, currently running a GTX560 Ti and will eventually look at SLI'ing two of them together. I'm thinking I'll definitely need a new power supply if I want to SLI, but if I just upgrade the guts and wait on the SLI until later, should it be fine?

    Yes, you'll be absolutely fine.

  • JAEFJAEF Unstoppably Bald Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    I'll probably want to upgrade for SLI though, yeah?

    Or would it be good?

    JAEF on
    Battle.net ID: Jaef#1126 -- Steam: Jaef -- PSN: Jaef -- League of Legends: Jaef
    jaefster.png
  • AlectharAlecthar Alan Shore We're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered User regular
    JAEF wrote:
    I'll probably want to upgrade for SLI though, yeah?

    Or would it be good?

    For SLI you'll want 650W. Modular supply wise, your best options are the XFX XXX Edition 650W supply (if you can find it in stock), Thortech's Thunderbolt 650W unit, or the HX650.

  • JAEFJAEF Unstoppably Bald Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Thanks. The SLI will likely be at least several months ahead. Curious why you recommend the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3P over the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3 in the OP? Tried to find the differences, apparently it's just Crossfire support and dual gigabit LAN?

    About to pull the trigger on:

    GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3
    Intel Core i5-2500K
    and some standard 2x4GB 1600Mhz DDR3.

    JAEF on
    Battle.net ID: Jaef#1126 -- Steam: Jaef -- PSN: Jaef -- League of Legends: Jaef
    jaefster.png
  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    JAEF wrote:
    Thanks. The SLI will likely be at least several months ahead. Curious why you recommend the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3P over the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3 in the OP? Tried to find the differences, apparently it's just Crossfire support and dual gigabit LAN?

    About to pull the trigger on:

    GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3
    Intel Core i5-2500K
    and some standard 2x4GB 1600Mhz DDR3.

    The other difference is that it looks like the -UD3P is the better board for OCing. There's a reason Gigabyte's site specifically tells you that the -UD3P has a 12 power phase VRM while completely neglecting to mention the VRM design of the -UD3 (a bit of googling says that the -UD3 has a 7 phase VRM). And you can see that the -UD3P has an extra heatsink over the VRM.

    The -UD3 will likely be good enough for a decently big OC, but the -UD3P will be better. Whether you want to spend an extra $40 for a more aggressive OC is up to you.

    TheCanMan on
  • XaviarXaviar regular Registered User regular
    So my parts for my new build are showing up today. Quick question. I've got a 120gb SSD and a 1TB HDD.
    What's the best way to use these? Just OS on the SSD? OS + games? Something else?

  • minor incidentminor incident Helen Keller to the bullshit Registered User regular
    I'd say OS + current games (assuming you aren't playing like 15 games at once) on the SSD. Keep everything else on the HDD. Steam Mover will help tremendously with this, if Steam is your channel of choice for games.

    Steam: minor incident || PSN: inter-punct
    You may not find all that you're after. In the end I hope it doesn't matter.
  • StraygatsbyStraygatsby regular Registered User regular
    Wow, GO newegg. Ordered my case and parts late Monday evening, and the case is out for delivery here in Louisiana today with ALL my components (top to bottom build) getting into Texas this afternoon and presumably to me tomorrow night. I'm really impressed. Now let's hope I don't get any DOAs.

    Between finishing my A+ exams, work normalizing after semester rush, and an ahead of schedule PC parts shipment, this is going to be a gloriously nerdtastic weekend. :P

  • XaviarXaviar regular Registered User regular
    Lame. My guaranteed 3-day shipping has taken 7 days =P

  • OhtheVogonityOhtheVogonity regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    doublepost

    OhtheVogonity on
    Oh freddled gruntbuggly...thy micturations are to me/ As plurdled gabbleblotchits on a lurgid bee
  • JAEFJAEF Unstoppably Bald Registered User regular
    TheCanMan wrote:
    JAEF wrote:
    Thanks. The SLI will likely be at least several months ahead. Curious why you recommend the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3P over the GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3 in the OP? Tried to find the differences, apparently it's just Crossfire support and dual gigabit LAN?

    About to pull the trigger on:

    GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3
    Intel Core i5-2500K
    and some standard 2x4GB 1600Mhz DDR3.

    The other difference is that it looks like the -UD3P is the better board for OCing. There's a reason Gigabyte's site specifically tells you that the -UD3P has a 12 power phase VRM while completely neglecting to mention the VRM design of the -UD3 (a bit of googling says that the -UD3 has a 7 phase VRM). And you can see that the -UD3P has an extra heatsink over the VRM.

    The -UD3 will likely be good enough for a decently big OC, but the -UD3P will be better. Whether you want to spend an extra $40 for a more aggressive OC is up to you.
    Good to know. Looks like I'll be fine with the UD3.

    Battle.net ID: Jaef#1126 -- Steam: Jaef -- PSN: Jaef -- League of Legends: Jaef
    jaefster.png
  • CojonesCojones regular Registered User regular
    After recommendations, here's my revised list:
    CPU: NEW! Intel Core i3 2100


    Included

    Operating System: No Operating System - I will install my own

    Motherboard: NEW! Asus P8H61-M LX2 (Rev. 3)

    Included

    Memory: 4.0GB Corsair DDR3 1600mhz XMS3 (2x 2GB)


    Hard Drives: NEW! 500GB S-ATAIII 6.0Gb/s


    Included

    Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA


    Included

    Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 450 1GB

    Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio


    Included

    Case: Piano Black ATX


    Included

    PSU: 500W Xigmatek


    Warranty: 3 Year Platinum Warranty
    Cost = £353

    Well within my budget, I'm just slightly concerned that the graphics card might be a little weak. Advice?

    exmac.png
  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?

  • DoctorArchDoctorArch Curmudgeon Registered User regular
    So I'm saving money right now for a completely new computer, but a couple of quick questions:

    Is it a good time to buy a computer between now and the end of the year, or am I out of step with the technology price cycle?

    I have a five year old computer with a 550W Antec power supply. Should I cannibalize it or get a new one, like one of the Earthwatts models?

    Is there any good reason for a full tower other than "just because I want one"?

    Switch Friend Code: SW-6732-9515-9697
  • CojonesCojones regular Registered User regular
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    exmac.png
  • deadonthestreetdeadonthestreet regular Registered User regular
    DoctorArch wrote:
    So I'm saving money right now for a completely new computer, but a couple of quick questions:

    Is it a good time to buy a computer between now and the end of the year, or am I out of step with the technology price cycle?

    I have a five year old computer with a 550W Antec power supply. Should I cannibalize it or get a new one, like one of the Earthwatts models?

    Is there any good reason for a full tower other than "just because I want one"?

    New AMD processors are coming out in theory later this month (but they were supposed to be out last month so who knows when they are actually coming). Intel's next batch comes early 2012.

  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    Cojones wrote:
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    Well, if it's the best you can do, it's the best you can do. Just know that it's basically the absolute lowest card anyone would reasonable suggest buying. It'll probably play most current games (at reduced setting). So it'll be serviceable for a little while, but it will definitely be the first component you need to upgrade in the future.

  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    DoctorArch wrote:
    So I'm saving money right now for a completely new computer, but a couple of quick questions:

    Is it a good time to buy a computer between now and the end of the year, or am I out of step with the technology price cycle?

    I have a five year old computer with a 550W Antec power supply. Should I cannibalize it or get a new one, like one of the Earthwatts models?

    Is there any good reason for a full tower other than "just because I want one"?

    New AMD processors are coming out in theory later this month (but they were supposed to be out last month so who knows when they are actually coming). Intel's next batch comes early 2012.

    I've got a new build in the works to. And personally, I'm holding off ordering until the post-Thanksgiving sales.

  • BurtletoyBurtletoy regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Cojones wrote:
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    Is it cheaper to select one of the worser 2 options they give you, and then just buying a GPU on your own to replace it?

    Burtletoy on
  • Xenogear_0001Xenogear_0001 regular Registered User regular
    Looking at the Phenom II X4 and the Sandy Bridge i5-2500K, I'm seeing that the latter is 32nm and the former 45nm. But what practical difference does that make? More efficiency? Less heat? It does look like the i5 uses more power.

    Ultimately, I'm not sure what it is that makes the i5 cost $90 more than the Phenom. Pure overclock ability maybe?

    steam_sig.png
  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Looking at the Phenom II X4 and the Sandy Bridge i5-2500K, I'm seeing that the latter is 32nm and the former 45nm. But what practical difference does that make? More efficiency? Less heat? It does look like the i5 uses more power.

    Ultimately, I'm not sure what it is that makes the i5 cost $90 more than the Phenom. Pure overclock ability maybe?

    The i5 cost $90 more because it's a vastly superior processor. The chart below tops out at the i5-2400, but it'll give you a good sense of how things stack up. Notice that even the least powerful Sandy Bridge, the i3-2100, gives slightly better performance than the X4 970 and the x6 1075T.

    u2tZh.png

    TheCanMan on
  • CojonesCojones regular Registered User regular
    Burtletoy wrote:
    Cojones wrote:
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    Is it cheaper to select one of the worser 2 options they give you, and then just buying a GPU on your own to replace it?

    This is absolutely an option; I could quite easily opt to buy no graphics card and purchase one separately. The question then is, which GPU offers the best bang for my ~£100 budget?

    Again, thanks in advance, I can't stress just how helpful and reassuring you guys are.

    exmac.png
  • TheCanManTheCanMan regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Cojones wrote:
    Burtletoy wrote:
    Cojones wrote:
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    Is it cheaper to select one of the worser 2 options they give you, and then just buying a GPU on your own to replace it?

    This is absolutely an option; I could quite easily opt to buy no graphics card and purchase one separately. The question then is, which GPU offers the best bang for my ~£100 budget?

    Again, thanks in advance, I can't stress just how helpful and reassuring you guys are.

    I'm assuming you're in the UK? If so, and if you can stretch that another £20 I'd get this HD6850. Otherwise, get either a 5770 or 6770 (they're the same card just re-badged).

    TheCanMan on
  • XeddicusXeddicus regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    If you wait a few days this should be updated for September, but may not change much either, so: Handy best video card bang for you buck guide. The blog linked in the OP has some suggestions too, though it doesn't bother with low end budget cards. And beated, anyway, blast.

    Xeddicus on
    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • DoctorArchDoctorArch Curmudgeon Registered User regular
    And in a throwback to yesteryear, id has released the recommended specs for Rage:

    Recommended:
    OS: Win XP SP3, Vista, Win 7
    Processor: Intel Core 2 Quad or Equivalent AMD
    Memory: 4GB
    Hard Disk Space: 25GB
    Video Card: GeForce 9800 GTX, ATI Radeon HD 5550

    Switch Friend Code: SW-6732-9515-9697
  • Doctor DeimosDoctor Deimos regular Registered User regular
    Ok, so I think I'm actually getting a new computer now. I'm trying to stay around $1500, and this is what I got:


    Case (600t white) and disc drive: $175
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723268
    SSD: $135
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233193
    HD: $60 (might throw in another one)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
    Mobo + psu: $350
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.730292
    CPU + RAM: $405 (I know I should get only 8 gigs and an i5 instead, but I'm an elitist asshole)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723489


    NOW, here's my question: should I get a gtx 570 or 2 560's in SLI?
    570: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130593
    560: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121446

    Eventually I'm gonna add a nice sound card and another SSD, as well as a CPU cooler for overclockery.

  • CojonesCojones regular Registered User regular
    TheCanMan wrote:
    Cojones wrote:
    Burtletoy wrote:
    Cojones wrote:
    TheCanMan wrote:
    @Cojones

    That GPU is definitely a concern. How much more is left in your budget?
    I'd guess an extra £30-40, but the site I'm building this on, for some reason, only has three GPU options, the best of which I selected. Is it *that* bad?

    Is it cheaper to select one of the worser 2 options they give you, and then just buying a GPU on your own to replace it?

    This is absolutely an option; I could quite easily opt to buy no graphics card and purchase one separately. The question then is, which GPU offers the best bang for my ~£100 budget?

    Again, thanks in advance, I can't stress just how helpful and reassuring you guys are.

    I'm assuming you're in the UK? If so, and if you can stretch that another £20 I'd get this HD6850. Otherwise, get either a 5770 or 6770 (they're the same card just re-badged).

    Thanks, though perhaps this would be a better option? I'm a rank newbie when it comes to computer hardware but the price is lower and the clock speeds are higher, so that's good, right?

    I'm inches away from pressing the buy button here, so here's that list one last time:
    Graphics card: MSI HD 6850
    Processor: Intel Core i3 2100
    Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LX2 (Rev. 3)
    RAM: 4.0GB Corsair DDR3 1600mhz XMS3 (2x 2GB)
    HDD: 500GB S-ATAIII 6.0Gb/s
    Optical drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
    Sound: Onboard 7.1 Audio
    Case: Piano Black ATX
    PSU: 500W Xigmatek
    3 year warranty

    Price = ~£400

    There are no obvious compatibility issues here, are there?

    Thanks for your time.

    exmac.png
  • Big ClassyBig Classy regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    Been a week now since I installed the Psu and gpu and everything is running great. Still nor getting the desired visuals in witcher 2 but I hear no one is with a gtx 460 :lol:

    Manage 60fps on high but it drops drastically to around 20-30 during bigger fight scenes. I'm being pedantic,i know.

    I'll post pics of the finished PC once the monitor arrives. Massive thanks to our very own pabh for giving it to me for free, just paid delivery in it. No more 1280*1024!

    Edit: @cojones take a gander at dabs.co.uk. I bought my gpu from there and it was considerably cheaper than scan. Silly delivery charges. Also Theres some pretty cheap gtx460s there ;)

    Big Classy on
  • ParielPariel regular Registered User regular
    edited September 2011
    @Cojones
    That looks perfectly reasonable, although did someone here suggest the Xigmatek? I would go with an Antec, Corsair, or XFX supply for the same price.

    Pariel on
  • CojonesCojones regular Registered User regular
    Pariel wrote:
    @Cojones
    That looks perfectly reasonable, although did someone here suggest the Xigmatek? I would go with an Antec, Corsair, or XFX supply for the same price.
    Thanks very much for the reply. Given that the site I'm buying from has some kind of sponsorship deal with Xigmatek, they provide a free +1 year upgrade to my warranty if I buy a Xigmatek PSU. Seemed like a good deal.

    exmac.png
This discussion has been closed.