If it was over heating it wouldn't stop being over heated and would keep doing whatever until it cooled. I would assume. That just seems off, but maybe that is the problem, shrug.
"For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
Well I'm at a loss then. Disconnected all components and recollected them after dusting it all out. Nothing. Multiple Os installs, nothing. BIOS updated no change. Manually set memory timings nope, no change.
I can't figure it out, just figured the heat from the board would be slowing the signals being sent or something.
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acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
edited October 2011
FFFFFFffffff I got my 600T SE build all set up and everything installed when I realized there's about an inch long dent/scratch on the side panel emailed ncix support and they offered to send me a door someone else returned because it's got a scratch on it. I don't know what to do because RMAing the whole case would be a massive PITA, should I snark-mail someone higher up to get some resolution?
edit: does anyone have a black 600T case? If so, is the finish a glossy black or a matte? I know they sell windowed doors separately so if worse comes to worse I could just order one of them, but it totally wouldn't look right if it wasn't glossy.
acidlacedpenguin on
GT: Acidboogie PSNid: AcidLacedPenguiN
0
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
FFFFFFffffff I got my 600T SE build all set up and everything installed when I realized there's about an inch long dent/scratch on the side panel emailed ncix support and they offered to send me a door someone else returned because it's got a scratch on it. I don't know what to do because RMAing the whole case would be a massive PITA, should I snarkmail someone higher up to get some resolution?
If it makes you feel better, my 600T SE has an ugly 3-inch black scrape the width of a fingernail on the side panel. It came that way too, but by the time I realized it was all built up, and Microcenter was out of stock.
minor incident on
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
So I took some pictures of the R3's light in the dark. I took them with my cell phone and Im about 10ft away. I dont think it gives a super accurate picture of what its like having the light on since my eyes are apparently more sensitive to light than my phone's camera, but itll give you an idea of what its like:
I was going to take a picture of my room from my computer's perspective to give you an idea of how illuminating it is, but my camera couldnt see anything.
Also, that red dot isnt from the case if youre wondering.
Hahaha, Im actually surprised by how little it bothers me. The easiest solution is just to shut it off (although electrical tape/draping something over it is super easy too), but I use my computer as an alarm so... Its not that bad, I mean Im not staring at the light while Im trying to go to sleep.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Yeah, I'm a little OCD about light in the bedroom. My living room, however is practically daylight due to all the lights from tv, speakers, receiver, Drobo, nas, router, server, etc.
I can't even keep an alarm clock in my bedroom because the light would make me crazy. Every once in a while Windows wakes my computer up at 3am to update as I immediately bolt out of bed to go poke at it furiously until it stops.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
I feel like I'm the only one who actually shuts his computer down.
Mine only shut down for updates or hardware stuff. Aside from the gaming machine (which shuts down occasionally for hardware upgrades, Windows bullshit, etc) my MacBook Pro and Mac Mini haven't been shut down since Lion was released. Prior to that, the Mini had an uptime of just under a year.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
Jesus
I suppose if I was fronting the energy bills then mine would stay on. Recently its been staying for an average of 16 hours or so but even then I feel bad about keeping it on so long. Plus I can't sleep with the drone.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
It's not that bad, really. Most machines use only marginally more than zero power while sleeping, and the Mac Mini (which NEVER sleeps—it's my server) uses less power than a lightbulb while at work.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
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HenroidMexican kicked from Immigration ThreadCentrism is Racism :3Registered Userregular
When I took formal training in computer repair I was told that a computer that is constantly shut on and off will fail more frequently (typically power supply, which could fry everything else in my experience) than a computer that is simply left on, going into sleep mode.
The MOBO is $40 off in combo with the processor, usually $124.99
I was planning on waiting for Black Friday, but this sale seems too good to pass up. Any opinions on picking up the rest now, or maybe waiting for a nice sale on a GPU?
Exactly how much performance difference would I see between a Radeon 6950 and 6970?
A few frames, according to most benchmarks. Considering the substantial price jump between the two, I think the 6970 is hard to recommend. I'm personally VERY happy with my 6950s.
If you're interested, some 6950s are unlockable into 6970s. Google will help you out with that.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
Is there anything wrong with this ASRock motherboard, to go with my shiny new 2500k? There must be, for it to be so cheap, right? I guess the "regular price" was $120 which doesn't seem as bargain-binny as $90 does...
I'd maaaaybe be willing to spend another $20-30 if it will get me something significantly better if anybody has better ideas.
Exactly how much performance difference would I see between a Radeon 6950 and 6970?
A few frames, according to most benchmarks. Considering the substantial price jump between the two, I think the 6970 is hard to recommend. I'm personally VERY happy with my 6950s.
If you're interested, some 6950s are unlockable into 6970s. Google will help you out with that.
I feel like I'm the only one who actually shuts his computer down.
I'm pretty adamant about keeping any electronics in a totally separate room from where I sleep. Just feels like I sleep so much better that way. I currently sleep in the 'library' as me and my brother call it. We like books (a lot) and put our collection in one room in our parents house (yes I currently have to live with the 'rents...). Only thing missing is a proper catalogue system ^o^
I've lived in studio situations and in those cases I try to cover even turned off electronics with a blanket or my clothes. If it's in the same room as me I even turn off power strips
Is there anything wrong with this ASRock motherboard, to go with my shiny new 2500k? There must be, for it to be so cheap, right? I guess the "regular price" was $120 which doesn't seem as bargain-binny as $90 does...
I'd maaaaybe be willing to spend another $20-30 if it will get me something significantly better if anybody has better ideas.
I have the z68 flavor of the pro3 board running an i5 2500k and it is a solid board. I can't speak to how well it handles high OC's because I've only got it going at 4ghz right now due to not having the scratch to dump on a better cooler but I'd say that if that board isn't lacking in features that you want then it should be a very nice buy.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
1. Is that PSU sufficient? I have been out of this game for a few years, and I have no idea what's good anymore.
2. Is that memory ok? Any issues with clearance with the heatsinks they use?
That PSU is crazypants overkill unless you're planning to Crossfire two of those GPUs. You'd be fine with plenty of breathing room with a 500/550watt PSU.
Of course if you think you might wanna do crossfire later it could be worth going for the more powerful PSU now just to save on cost later.
But a single 2gig 6950 should run most stuff on very respectable settings at any res
Yeah sorry, I should have mentioned that. I may crossfire in 6 months or so. I figured 650W would probably be enough...but wasn't sure on that.
@minor incident thanks, I'll take a look at that memory. Edit: Which one should I be looking at in that list?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I run 2x 6950s on a 750watt. I previously had a 700watt. You'd be fine with your PSU if you do want to crossfire. 650 may be pushing it for two 6950s, though.
Also, I've been very happy with my Corsair RAM, if you need a testimonial. The G.Skill will be fine, too, but why not save a few bucks for equally good memory?
Regardless of which way you go, you'll love this rig!
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
I don't plan on any kind of overclocking, and will probably just use the cooler that comes with the processor, though I'll probably use my thermal paste instead of whatever they provide.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I don't plan on any kind of overclocking, and will probably just use the cooler that comes with the processor, though I'll probably use my thermal paste instead of whatever they provide.
I honestly wouldn't bother using your own, especially if you're not overclocking. It'll cost you an extra 5-10 bucks, and at best it'll result in your CPU running 1 or 2 degrees cooler, when it's already cooler than it needs to be. Worst case scenario: you'll apply too much and have to keep reapplying and reseating the cooler. (Pro tip if you do decide to use your own - figure on less thermal paste than you think you should use, then apply about half of that amount)
If you're overclocking (which is insanely easy with Sandy Bridge - literally changing a number in a drop down menu), then you can go for it. You'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler in that case anyway.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
Also, don't overtighten the screws if you have to use a separate bracket for the aftermarket Heatsink and fan :oops:
I managed to snap a bracket off, easily fixed with some epoxy but still.
edit: Minor, how'd you get the wiring in your case so neat? I'd love to see a pic of the other side of your case if you can take one. Honestly, at first I thought you didn't have anything plugged in
Big Classy on
0
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Also, don't overtighten the screws if you have to use a separate bracket for the aftermarket Heatsink and fan :oops:
I managed to snap a bracket off, easily fixed with some epoxy but still.
edit: Minor, how'd you get the wiring in your case so neat? I'd love to see a pic of the other side of your case if you can take one. Honestly, at first I thought you didn't have anything plugged in
Haha, thanks. The Corsair 600T has a LOT of room behind the backplate, and a convex sidepanel, so a LOT of wiring can be stuffed back there. It's actually kind of a mess from the other side, but I just got some zipties to tidy it all up. I'll post a photo of that soon. The 600T has lots of nice rubber grommets in just the right positions to run power cables right to the spots you need them. Other ones, like fan cables and such are routed around the fans, under the video cards, etc, to keep them mostly invisible. It took a lot of fiddling to get the tubing for the H60 watercooling block wedged up and out of eyesight near the top of the case.
Also, black motherboard + black cable sleeving + black video cards + black case interior + black power connectors helps everything blend in nicely, and keeps most of the cabling invisible.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
Hah, thats about the only good thing my case has going for it, its black
But yeah, you get what you pay for and Iseriously regret not getting something much more decent than generic steel case #27. But then we go by what we can afford so it was either that or nothing at all. Hopefully, next year I can get around to buying the 600T (made a note of it so I remember!).
I don't plan on any kind of overclocking, and will probably just use the cooler that comes with the processor, though I'll probably use my thermal paste instead of whatever they provide.
I honestly wouldn't bother using your own, especially if you're not overclocking. It'll cost you an extra 5-10 bucks, and at best it'll result in your CPU running 1 or 2 degrees cooler, when it's already cooler than it needs to be. Worst case scenario: you'll apply too much and have to keep reapplying and reseating the cooler. (Pro tip if you do decide to use your own - figure on less thermal paste than you think you should use, then apply about half of that amount)
If you're overclocking (which is insanely easy with Sandy Bridge - literally changing a number in a drop down menu), then you can go for it. You'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler in that case anyway.
I still have some paste from my last build, so no money spent. I'm pretty familiar with how much to put on...used to be a bit more of an enthusiast "back in the day"...I'm just kind of past that point in my life now.
Thanks for all your tips and help. I'll be buying in a few weeks.
Any thoughts on a good LCD monitor? I've got a Samsung SyncMaster 204b right now...but I can tell it's dying on me. I'd like something with a good refresh rate and decent size. I was eyeing this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236050
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Ladies, gentlemen, etc. etc.
Sorry about my abrupt disappearing act recently. I had a rather unexpected confluence of life events (big policy changes at work + family coming from the US to visit + just shit in general) that left me with enough free time to work, sit around, and every so often watch my cousin play Mass Effect repeatedly on a PC that, were life fair, I would be playing Mass Effect repeatedly on (on the plus side, I'm going to have an awesome Paragon save if/when I get around to ME2). So, anyone who recently sent me a PM that didn't get responded to, wondered where I was, had a question for me, so on and so forth, know that I have returned.
All of that isn't to say that I thought the world had stopped turning in this thread due to my absence. You guys don't need me.
But you want me. Admit it.
Regardless, I'm back. Let the accusations/joyous welcoming parades begin.
I don't plan on any kind of overclocking, and will probably just use the cooler that comes with the processor, though I'll probably use my thermal paste instead of whatever they provide.
I honestly wouldn't bother using your own, especially if you're not overclocking. It'll cost you an extra 5-10 bucks, and at best it'll result in your CPU running 1 or 2 degrees cooler, when it's already cooler than it needs to be. Worst case scenario: you'll apply too much and have to keep reapplying and reseating the cooler. (Pro tip if you do decide to use your own - figure on less thermal paste than you think you should use, then apply about half of that amount)
If you're overclocking (which is insanely easy with Sandy Bridge - literally changing a number in a drop down menu), then you can go for it. You'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler in that case anyway.
I still have some paste from my last build, so no money spent. I'm pretty familiar with how much to put on...used to be a bit more of an enthusiast "back in the day"...I'm just kind of past that point in my life now.
Thanks for all your tips and help. I'll be buying in a few weeks.
Any thoughts on a good LCD monitor? I've got a Samsung SyncMaster 204b right now...but I can tell it's dying on me. I'd like something with a good refresh rate and decent size. I was eyeing this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236050
The real issue (issue being an overstatement of the actual difficulty, but anyway...) is that you'll need to remove the stuff that already comes pre-applied to the stock 'sink, which isn't hard as long as you have isopropyl alcohol and lint-free cloth around. Otherwise it's genuinely more trouble than it's worth. The alcohol (or a dedicated TIM removing compound like ArctiClean) and coffee filters (lint-free cloth on the cheap) and the time you waste getting them are definitely worth less than the temperature improvements you'll see. I honestly wouldn't even burn the time it took me to hunt down thermal paste in my work area, if it were just to replace TIM on a stock 'sink, so long as we're talking about a fresh processor/heatsink.
I don't plan on any kind of overclocking, and will probably just use the cooler that comes with the processor, though I'll probably use my thermal paste instead of whatever they provide.
I honestly wouldn't bother using your own, especially if you're not overclocking. It'll cost you an extra 5-10 bucks, and at best it'll result in your CPU running 1 or 2 degrees cooler, when it's already cooler than it needs to be. Worst case scenario: you'll apply too much and have to keep reapplying and reseating the cooler. (Pro tip if you do decide to use your own - figure on less thermal paste than you think you should use, then apply about half of that amount)
If you're overclocking (which is insanely easy with Sandy Bridge - literally changing a number in a drop down menu), then you can go for it. You'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler in that case anyway.
I still have some paste from my last build, so no money spent. I'm pretty familiar with how much to put on...used to be a bit more of an enthusiast "back in the day"...I'm just kind of past that point in my life now.
Thanks for all your tips and help. I'll be buying in a few weeks.
Any thoughts on a good LCD monitor? I've got a Samsung SyncMaster 204b right now...but I can tell it's dying on me. I'd like something with a good refresh rate and decent size. I was eyeing this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236050
The real issue (issue being an overstatement of the actual difficulty, but anyway...) is that you'll need to remove the stuff that already comes pre-applied to the stock 'sink, which isn't hard as long as you have isopropyl alcohol and lint-free cloth around. Otherwise it's genuinely more trouble than it's worth. The alcohol (or a dedicated TIM removing compound like ArctiClean) and coffee filters (lint-free cloth on the cheap) and the time you waste getting them are definitely worth less than the temperature improvements you'll see. I honestly wouldn't even burn the time it took me to hunt down thermal paste in my work area, if it were just to replace TIM on a stock 'sink, so long as we're talking about a fresh processor/heatsink.
Fair enough. I still have a dedicated cloth somewhere around here that I used for that kind of stuff. But you're right, it can be a pain to get off.
So now I just need to pick out a monitor and I'm set.
Edit: And now I realize the monitor I linked higher up in this quote tree has built in speakers. Meh.
Heir on
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
I guess my pm was timed to perfection then
Swift reply. Anyone would think you never leave the computer let alone be gone for a good few days.
In the OP, by the way.
For the latest page fixated: Big Isy wants UK buyers to be aware of www.dabs.com, which I'm sure he's mentioned before but it can't hurt to say it again.
Unless it can, in which case I assume no criminal or civil liability for my words.
Fair enough. I still have a dedicated cloth somewhere around here that I used for that kind of stuff. But you're right, it can be a pain to get off.
So now I just need to pick out a monitor and I'm set.
Edit: And now I realize the monitor I linked higher up in this quote tree has built in speakers. Meh.
There are a boatload of reasonably priced, reasonably sized 1920x1080 LCD 60hz monitors that have perfectly acceptable performance characteristics in terms of response rate. Reviews (from reputable sites, preferably not Newegg customers...*shudder*) can tell you more about which ones have acceptable color reproduction and picture quality.
If you want a 120hz monitor (for 3D, or if you hate VSync like I do) you'll want to go with either Alienware's model, or ASUS'. Dell makes a really reasonably priced 1080p IPS screen, if viewing angles and color reproduction are important to you. Right now you can't get an 120hz IPS monitor, as far as I know.
Posts
I can't figure it out, just figured the heat from the board would be slowing the signals being sent or something.
edit: does anyone have a black 600T case? If so, is the finish a glossy black or a matte? I know they sell windowed doors separately so if worse comes to worse I could just order one of them, but it totally wouldn't look right if it wasn't glossy.
If it makes you feel better, my 600T SE has an ugly 3-inch black scrape the width of a fingernail on the side panel. It came that way too, but by the time I realized it was all built up, and Microcenter was out of stock.
I was going to take a picture of my room from my computer's perspective to give you an idea of how illuminating it is, but my camera couldnt see anything.
Also, that red dot isnt from the case if youre wondering.
Which is why I sleep my machine before I go to bed. And put electrical tape over my TV led, my Boxee, and my surge protector. Ugh.
I can't even keep an alarm clock in my bedroom because the light would make me crazy. Every once in a while Windows wakes my computer up at 3am to update as I immediately bolt out of bed to go poke at it furiously until it stops.
Mine only shut down for updates or hardware stuff. Aside from the gaming machine (which shuts down occasionally for hardware upgrades, Windows bullshit, etc) my MacBook Pro and Mac Mini haven't been shut down since Lion was released. Prior to that, the Mini had an uptime of just under a year.
I suppose if I was fronting the energy bills then mine would stay on. Recently its been staying for an average of 16 hours or so but even then I feel bad about keeping it on so long. Plus I can't sleep with the drone.
Intel Core i5 2500K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor 1 $149.99
SKU: 200121
ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard 1 $84.99
SKU: 812289
The MOBO is $40 off in combo with the processor, usually $124.99
I was planning on waiting for Black Friday, but this sale seems too good to pass up. Any opinions on picking up the rest now, or maybe waiting for a nice sale on a GPU?
Exactly how much performance difference would I see between a Radeon 6950 and 6970?
A few frames, according to most benchmarks. Considering the substantial price jump between the two, I think the 6970 is hard to recommend. I'm personally VERY happy with my 6950s.
If you're interested, some 6950s are unlockable into 6970s. Google will help you out with that.
According to this and this not too much.
Edit: Damnit, this is what I get for citing sources!
Is there anything wrong with this ASRock motherboard, to go with my shiny new 2500k? There must be, for it to be so cheap, right? I guess the "regular price" was $120 which doesn't seem as bargain-binny as $90 does...
I'd maaaaybe be willing to spend another $20-30 if it will get me something significantly better if anybody has better ideas.
Video Card: HIS IceQ X Turbo H695QNT2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB - 270.00
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz 220.00
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 - 175.00
Case: ZALMAN Z9 Plus Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - 70.00
Power Supply: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 (CMPSU-750AX) 750W - 170.00
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - 70.00
Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s - 60.00
Total: $1035 before shipping
Couple of questions:
1. Is that PSU sufficient? I have been out of this game for a few years, and I have no idea what's good anymore.
2. Is that memory ok? Any issues with clearance with the heatsinks they use?
Thanks!
You too @Xeddicus
I'm pretty adamant about keeping any electronics in a totally separate room from where I sleep. Just feels like I sleep so much better that way. I currently sleep in the 'library' as me and my brother call it. We like books (a lot) and put our collection in one room in our parents house (yes I currently have to live with the 'rents...). Only thing missing is a proper catalogue system ^o^
I've lived in studio situations and in those cases I try to cover even turned off electronics with a blanket or my clothes. If it's in the same room as me I even turn off power strips
I have the z68 flavor of the pro3 board running an i5 2500k and it is a solid board. I can't speak to how well it handles high OC's because I've only got it going at 4ghz right now due to not having the scratch to dump on a better cooler but I'd say that if that board isn't lacking in features that you want then it should be a very nice buy.
That PSU is crazypants overkill unless you're planning to Crossfire two of those GPUs. You'd be fine with plenty of breathing room with a 500/550watt PSU.
That memory should be fine, but if I were you, I'd save 20 bucks or so and go with 8gb of Corsair Vengeance: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&N=-1&isNodeId=1&Description=Corsair+vengence+8gb&x=0&y=0
But a single 2gig 6950 should run most stuff on very respectable settings at any res
Yeah sorry, I should have mentioned that. I may crossfire in 6 months or so. I figured 650W would probably be enough...but wasn't sure on that.
@minor incident thanks, I'll take a look at that memory. Edit: Which one should I be looking at in that list?
Also, I've been very happy with my Corsair RAM, if you need a testimonial. The G.Skill will be fine, too, but why not save a few bucks for equally good memory?
Regardless of which way you go, you'll love this rig!
the low profile corsair stuff will fit no problem
I don't know what kind of cpu cooling you are planning but it's worth keeping in mind.
I honestly wouldn't bother using your own, especially if you're not overclocking. It'll cost you an extra 5-10 bucks, and at best it'll result in your CPU running 1 or 2 degrees cooler, when it's already cooler than it needs to be. Worst case scenario: you'll apply too much and have to keep reapplying and reseating the cooler. (Pro tip if you do decide to use your own - figure on less thermal paste than you think you should use, then apply about half of that amount)
If you're overclocking (which is insanely easy with Sandy Bridge - literally changing a number in a drop down menu), then you can go for it. You'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler in that case anyway.
I managed to snap a bracket off, easily fixed with some epoxy but still.
edit: Minor, how'd you get the wiring in your case so neat? I'd love to see a pic of the other side of your case if you can take one. Honestly, at first I thought you didn't have anything plugged in
Haha, thanks. The Corsair 600T has a LOT of room behind the backplate, and a convex sidepanel, so a LOT of wiring can be stuffed back there. It's actually kind of a mess from the other side, but I just got some zipties to tidy it all up. I'll post a photo of that soon. The 600T has lots of nice rubber grommets in just the right positions to run power cables right to the spots you need them. Other ones, like fan cables and such are routed around the fans, under the video cards, etc, to keep them mostly invisible. It took a lot of fiddling to get the tubing for the H60 watercooling block wedged up and out of eyesight near the top of the case.
Also, black motherboard + black cable sleeving + black video cards + black case interior + black power connectors helps everything blend in nicely, and keeps most of the cabling invisible.
But yeah, you get what you pay for and Iseriously regret not getting something much more decent than generic steel case #27. But then we go by what we can afford so it was either that or nothing at all. Hopefully, next year I can get around to buying the 600T (made a note of it so I remember!).
I still have some paste from my last build, so no money spent.
Thanks for all your tips and help. I'll be buying in a few weeks.
Any thoughts on a good LCD monitor? I've got a Samsung SyncMaster 204b right now...but I can tell it's dying on me. I'd like something with a good refresh rate and decent size. I was eyeing this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236050
Sorry about my abrupt disappearing act recently. I had a rather unexpected confluence of life events (big policy changes at work + family coming from the US to visit + just shit in general) that left me with enough free time to work, sit around, and every so often watch my cousin play Mass Effect repeatedly on a PC that, were life fair, I would be playing Mass Effect repeatedly on (on the plus side, I'm going to have an awesome Paragon save if/when I get around to ME2). So, anyone who recently sent me a PM that didn't get responded to, wondered where I was, had a question for me, so on and so forth, know that I have returned.
All of that isn't to say that I thought the world had stopped turning in this thread due to my absence. You guys don't need me.
But you want me. Admit it.
Regardless, I'm back. Let the accusations/joyous welcoming parades begin.
Battle.net
Swift reply. Anyone would think you never leave the computer let alone be gone for a good few days.
The real issue (issue being an overstatement of the actual difficulty, but anyway...) is that you'll need to remove the stuff that already comes pre-applied to the stock 'sink, which isn't hard as long as you have isopropyl alcohol and lint-free cloth around. Otherwise it's genuinely more trouble than it's worth. The alcohol (or a dedicated TIM removing compound like ArctiClean) and coffee filters (lint-free cloth on the cheap) and the time you waste getting them are definitely worth less than the temperature improvements you'll see. I honestly wouldn't even burn the time it took me to hunt down thermal paste in my work area, if it were just to replace TIM on a stock 'sink, so long as we're talking about a fresh processor/heatsink.
Battle.net
Fair enough. I still have a dedicated cloth somewhere around here that I used for that kind of stuff. But you're right, it can be a pain to get off.
So now I just need to pick out a monitor and I'm set.
Edit: And now I realize the monitor I linked higher up in this quote tree has built in speakers. Meh.
In the OP, by the way.
For the latest page fixated: Big Isy wants UK buyers to be aware of www.dabs.com, which I'm sure he's mentioned before but it can't hurt to say it again.
Unless it can, in which case I assume no criminal or civil liability for my words.
Battle.net
There are a boatload of reasonably priced, reasonably sized 1920x1080 LCD 60hz monitors that have perfectly acceptable performance characteristics in terms of response rate. Reviews (from reputable sites, preferably not Newegg customers...*shudder*) can tell you more about which ones have acceptable color reproduction and picture quality.
If you want a 120hz monitor (for 3D, or if you hate VSync like I do) you'll want to go with either Alienware's model, or ASUS'. Dell makes a really reasonably priced 1080p IPS screen, if viewing angles and color reproduction are important to you. Right now you can't get an 120hz IPS monitor, as far as I know.
Battle.net