Options

Questions, Discussion, Tutorials

1282931333449

Posts

  • Options
    ProspicienceProspicience The Raven King DenvemoloradoRegistered User regular
    kevindee wrote: »
    Anyone have a color scheme picker/generator that they would recommend in photoshop or online or whathaveyou?

    @Prospicience Perhaps Kuhler? I don't know of any others. This has a photoshop plug-in as well, which I think is standard nowadays.

    They've got an explore section where you can check out colour schemes according to popularity and whatnot, that might suit you.

    Thanks Kevin, will give it a try.

  • Options
    MagicToasterMagicToaster JapanRegistered User regular
    I'm seconding Kuler. CS5 and onwards has it as a kuler tab that you can keep on your work area. If you have an adobe ID, you can get a little more out of that window, as well as a really solid Kuler app.

  • Options
    IntotheVASTIntotheVAST Registered User regular
    I have a two part question for anyone who has the experience.

    I draw a small webcomic. The process I use is I start with drawing the comic out on paper I then scan the paper into the computer. I use Illustrator to ink the comic and then transfer it to photoshop for color

    My questions are....

    1. How should I be exporting to photoshop? I have been exporting as a PSD document, but I am not sure if that is the optimal way of doing it.
    2. Once I have completed the coloring in photoshop what type of file should I be saving it as? I have been saving it as a PNG24, but once again I am not sure if that is optimal for high quality viewing.

    Thanks for your advice!

  • Options
    MagicToasterMagicToaster JapanRegistered User regular
    There is no right way of doing things, only what is best for your workflow. Keeping with native formats, such as .ai or .psd will offer you a greater amount of flexibility, I suggest to go native as often as possible. As for your second question, I don't think you'll see a big difference in quality between the different variations of .png and .jpgs. I'd go with the one that gives you the smallest file size.

  • Options
    surrealitychecksurrealitycheck lonely, but not unloved dreaming of faulty keys and latchesRegistered User regular
    as a general rule i've always heard that one should go for png over jpeg if you have the choice as it is lossless whereas jpeg is not

    obF2Wuw.png
  • Options
    NibCromNibCrom Registered User regular
    as a general rule i've always heard that one should go for png over jpeg if you have the choice as it is lossless whereas jpeg is not

    I'd have to disagree with this. If you can cut the file size of your comic page in half by using a high quality lossy jpeg, I would go that route.

  • Options
    artencheartenche simply simple floridaRegistered User new member
    Hey guys, been lurking the artist forums for the past day or so, and decided to sign up. I've put down the pencil for a really long time now, and would like to pick up where I left off.. but when it comes to drawing we know that's not how it works. I've lost a lot, and only retained a little. All my sloppy habits have also returned. My first attempt in a while was a bit discouraging. Can anyone recommend what to read on drawing and basic shapes, shading and perspective. I feel like these are huuuuge essentials for me to pick up on my journey to becoming a better artist. I wanna get all of that down before even attempting to capture humans accurately on paper. I've been told reducing the big shapes to simple geometry first and placing it all in space will save you years, maybe decades in practicing drawing. I feel like if you want to get better, they're simply not many shortcuts. I'm ok with this, but I figured that learning and practicing the RIGHT things will save you a lot more time than learning and practicing bad technique.

  • Options
    IrukaIruka Registered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    @artenche

    Try some simple shape studies:
    http://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/172670/feb-monthly-enrichment-simple-shapes-light-and-form

    Jumping around the enrichment threads should give you some links/videos to help you get back into the swing of things.

  • Options
    artencheartenche simply simple floridaRegistered User new member
    Iruka wrote: »
    @artenche

    Try some simple shape studies:
    http://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/172670/feb-monthly-enrichment-simple-shapes-light-and-form

    Jumping around the enrichment threads should give you some links/videos to help you get back into the swing of things.

    Many thanks, I will be frequenting these threads.

  • Options
    Tidus53Tidus53 Registered User regular
    Hey guys Tidus here; I've been drawing for a long time and have finally decided to commit to digital art, I just need a tablet first. The job I'm working right now pays me just above the US minimum wage (first job, so I'm thankful I've got that) and I just want to know if there are any good tablets you guys would recommend.

    First off let me say this, I've been very hesitant about committing to digital art because of the fact that in most cases it relies on a tablet to do the art and that is sort of the problem for me. I always prefer seeing what I'm drawing, actually bearing witness to what is being created. I don't know if that the best way to put it but lemme try this: when I worked with a tablet I had to look at the computer screen while I drew and not at the spot where I was drawing and that became uncomfortable for me. I didn't like the fact that I could monitor(?) what I was drawing and the whole switching from tablet to PC thing got a little annoying. I've been looking at the Cintiq for awhile but I'm not sure if that's the best thing for a first tablet, I'm also unaware if there are any cheaper hybrid tablets available. If I had to make a choice I'd love to get a hybrid graphics tablet, but that might be a little to advanced for me considering I don't have a lot of experience with digital drawing.

    So any clues or hints?

  • Options
    WassermeloneWassermelone Registered User regular
    edited March 2014
    Well first off, it takes a while to get used to a tablet. So the awkwardness you are experiencing would most likely go away. Eventually you won't even notice the 'disconnect'.

    Alternatively, on screen drawing is actually starting to become a bit cheaper with some pretty good alternatives to the cintiq. The stand out is the Yiynova MSP19u. Some people say that they like it as much or more than a cintiq... I think thats silly, having tried both, but it IS great for the price.

    Wassermelone on
  • Options
    JeckalHydeJeckalHyde Lord Awesome New ZealandRegistered User regular
    hey guys, I'm creating a character design brief for a book cover as part of my tutoring work, I plan on getting my students to create them in Illustrator, as have done a different project for PS, though they can do shading work and touch ups in PS. Anyway, my problem is deciding on the kind of characters I want them to design. I'm thinking pull from hat thing with 2-3 hats: 1. object/animal 2. occupation/personality 3.emotion/adjective. Anyone got any other ideas, on setting parameters??

  • Options
    MetalbourneMetalbourne Inside a cluster b personalityRegistered User regular
    Sculptors? Clay suggestions? I need something that doesn't need an armature, doesn't air harden, and doesn't leave any kind of residue on my hands. I've been sculpting at work, so I have need to switch back and forth between my sculpting and the keyboard very quickly. I have been using this modeling clay you get at michaels for about four bucks a pound, but it leaves tooooons of residue. Super sculpey is not only very expensive, but also doesn't stand up by itself. How is play doh. I haven't used that stuff since I was young.

  • Options
    tapeslingertapeslinger Space Unicorn Slush Ranger Social Justice Rebel ScumRegistered User regular
    Sculptors? Clay suggestions? I need something that doesn't need an armature, doesn't air harden, and doesn't leave any kind of residue on my hands. I've been sculpting at work, so I have need to switch back and forth between my sculpting and the keyboard very quickly. I have been using this modeling clay you get at michaels for about four bucks a pound, but it leaves tooooons of residue. Super sculpey is not only very expensive, but also doesn't stand up by itself. How is play doh. I haven't used that stuff since I was young.

    Play Doh's definitely worse than Super Sculpey for all of those features, since it does air harden, would need an armature, and is pretty messy in general... great for playing with but not a great material for artwork.

    ***standard "this is my day job" disclaimer***

    The first thing that occurs to me based on what you're describing is a material called Castilene, which is a wax-based clay. Minimal hand residue, capable of standing on its own without armature, and permanently malleable, but also available in three different firmnesses depending on how you'd rather work-- soft is malleable at room temperature, medium is firm but detailable at room temperature, and hard will take some tooling at room temperature but really becomes incredibly useful with a little extra heat. The only downside is that you'll need to make a mold if you want to keep whatever you make in a "permanent" way. I've been using it for about eight years and I like it a lot. A lot of the toy/figure guys who don't have their own wax recipes use Castilene because it sort of bridges the gap between plastilene and wax.



  • Options
    MetalbourneMetalbourne Inside a cluster b personalityRegistered User regular
    Thanks TS.

    Doing a bit of research, it looks like castilene is about 10 bucks a pound? That's not horrible. Working next to a computer means I collect a lot of lint. How many times can you melt the stuff into a liquid and skim the crud off the top?

  • Options
    tapeslingertapeslinger Space Unicorn Slush Ranger Social Justice Rebel ScumRegistered User regular
    I am at that point where I use a tea strainer for most of my waxes because lol cat hair
    you can melt it basically indefinitely but you have to be careful not to take it too far higher than liquefying it, because you don't want to end up cooking the solids in the wax mix (it gets gritty and weird when that happens)
    I also usually store my waxes in plastic tupperware-esque containers (my wax collection lives in a set I got from Ikea a while back) to minimize dirt accumulation.

  • Options
    Ronin356Ronin356 Nowhere MORegistered User regular
    edited March 2014
    I'm going to display my art in loncon 3. It will be the first time I displayed my art outside the States.
    http://www.loncon3.org/showcase/shaner.php

    Ronin356 on
    Nobody sees a flower really; it is so small. We haven't time, and to see takes time - like to have a friend takes time.
    Georgia O'Keeffe
    Be sure to like my Comic Book "Last Words" on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Last-Words-The-Comic-Book/458405034287767
    and Magenta the Witchgirl!: http://www.drunkduck.com/Magenta_the_Witchgirl/



  • Options
    RevGutterRevGutter Registered User regular
    edited March 2014
    Just getting in to jpeg slinging and made my very first web comic along with my first time using a drawing tablet which I think is an old graphire 3. Basically I'm hooked now and want to get something that fits me a little better. Wacom tablets are out since I don't want to make that type of investment for my first buy, plus the lower end models have an active area that is just too small for my liking. The one I used was something like 4 inches and just didn't cut it.

    Looking for suggestions on one off graphics tablets in the $50-100 range since I don't really trust Amazon reviews for import brands. I'd like the biggest drawing area I can get, reliable drivers for win 7, and some shortcut buttons would be nice.
    Looking at the Huion 8 H610 and the Monoprice MP1060-HA60. Any experience with those or any other suggestions would be swell.

    RevGutter on
  • Options
    MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    In Photoshop, is it possible to APPLY an adjustment layer? That is, "realize" it's effect on the layers below?

  • Options
    Angel_of_BaconAngel_of_Bacon Moderator Mod Emeritus
    @Mayday

    Well, you can just merge everything down (if I'm understanding what you're trying to do correctly)- but if you want to retain multiple layers, you'll have to
    1) Make a copy of the adjustment layer for every layer you want to apply the effect to.
    2) In the Layers window, make sure each layer has one of the adjustment layers directly on top of it
    3) Select each adjustment layer, and hit Ctrl-Alt-G (or whatever it is on a Mac, if you're using one). This sets the layer as a clipping mask, so the adjustment layer only applies to that layer. Repeat for all layers.
    4) Hit Ctrl-E on each layer to Merge the adjustment layer down onto the layer.

    This works fine with 'Normal' layers, if you try it on a layer set to Multiply or something it'll probably give you some weird effects.

  • Options
    tynictynic PICNIC BADASS Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited April 2014
    You can also turn off the layers you don't want merged and then do 'merge visible', which works even if you have layer modes other than normal.

    edit: but obviously this will flatten everything you've got the adjustment over, so if you want to retain layers then the way Bacon suggested is the way to go.

    tynic on
  • Options
    MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    Alright, that should be okay. I'll just try to minimize the amount of layers I work on to make things faster. Thanks, Bacon! (especially for the key-shortcuts, those will make this a breeze).
    I was hoping for a one-click way to to this, since I notoriously fuck up the contrast values on my backgrounds when working from imagination and I have to do this EVERY. DAMN. TIME.

  • Options
    m3nacem3nace Registered User regular
    Does anyone have any examples of good spatial composition/design? Tutorials and resources are also welcome.
    Just to be clear I don't need perspective resources, only spatial design.

  • Options
    earthwormadamearthwormadam ancient crust Registered User regular
    I'm terrible at the business side of design freelance.

    So I did a CD front and back design for someone, for a couple hundred bucks. The logo I did for the front I made from scratch because they didn't seem to have one.

    Now they've payed for the work on the CD, but want the high res logo for shirts and stickers...

    How do I know how much to ask for in this case? I'm not doing any extra work to supply it to him since it's done already, but I feel like they're gonna be selling my work.

    I did the whole commission for him cheap as it is because he was someone I knew. I always feel like I'm extorting money from people in this scenario.

  • Options
    NightDragonNightDragon 6th Grade Username Registered User regular
    I'm terrible at the business side of design freelance.

    So I did a CD front and back design for someone, for a couple hundred bucks. The logo I did for the front I made from scratch because they didn't seem to have one.

    Now they've payed for the work on the CD, but want the high res logo for shirts and stickers...

    How do I know how much to ask for in this case? I'm not doing any extra work to supply it to him since it's done already, but I feel like they're gonna be selling my work.

    I did the whole commission for him cheap as it is because he was someone I knew. I always feel like I'm extorting money from people in this scenario.

    Draft up a contract, first off. I'm assuming that you didn't have one in place already. This might be a good place to start reading - it talks about licensing. This is another great link, which might help you determine price.

    This might seem surprising to them, even after you explain license agreements...so try to always have a contract handy before doing work, even (especially?) if it's work between friends/family/people you know. I know that it can feel that you're extorting money from people, but you are due payment for additional licensing, and this didn't seem to have been a verbally-agreed-upon thing prior to you starting, or you should have charged them more initially.

    They're asking for more from your art, so they should be willing to pay for that extra. Don't feel bad! Just prepare a bit more next time. :) It can be a pain at first but it saves you stress if something like this comes to pass later on.

  • Options
    earthwormadamearthwormadam ancient crust Registered User regular
    Thanks ND, those links were def very helpful indeed!

  • Options
    SpaceMooseSpaceMoose Registered User regular
    Found this the other day on youtube and didn't find it in a quick search here. It's basically a set of recordings of figure drawing sessions. Kinda handy.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QrzH532NSWM

  • Options
    NakedZerglingNakedZergling A more apocalyptic post apocalypse Portland OregonRegistered User regular
    For the love of god. My cintiq 12wx is WORTHLESS. I can use it to sketch, but for colors...it's total shit. They're muddy and off. When you reopen the image on any other monitor it looks totally different and shitty. Apparently this is a known issue, and Wacom just ignores it. Im selling this piece of shit unless any of you know a fix.

  • Options
    IrukaIruka Registered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    Give it to me. I will pay you in drawn dollars.

  • Options
    NakedZerglingNakedZergling A more apocalyptic post apocalypse Portland OregonRegistered User regular
    You would hate it!! Your colors are BEAUTIFUL. this would make them look like dog poo

  • Options
    IrukaIruka Registered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    This requires science to know for sure. Send it to me, I will test your hypothesis.

    I will then never return it.

  • Options
    Angel_of_BaconAngel_of_Bacon Moderator Mod Emeritus
    For the love of god. My cintiq 12wx is WORTHLESS. I can use it to sketch, but for colors...it's total shit. They're muddy and off. When you reopen the image on any other monitor it looks totally different and shitty. Apparently this is a known issue, and Wacom just ignores it. Im selling this piece of shit unless any of you know a fix.

    Yeah, I've got one and it irritates me as well. That's why I always have a second duplicate window open in PS on another monitor (Window>Arrange>New Window for Docname) so I can keep an eye on the colors while I'm working.

  • Options
    NakedZerglingNakedZergling A more apocalyptic post apocalypse Portland OregonRegistered User regular
    OOO Bacon...thats a great idea!
    Its upsetting that wacom just kinda looked the other way on this issue. These things are not cheap!

  • Options
    squidbunnysquidbunny Registered User regular
    Hi guys! I am that one dude you briefly hung out with in college who you now never hear from unless I need help moving.

    Anyone know of any Manga Studio EX5 guides written for a career Photoshop user trying to migrate over?

    header_image_sm.jpg
  • Options
    MangoesMangoes Registered User regular
    I'd say the most important thing for migrating your painting workflow from PS to MS5 is finding the little checkbox under "Stroke" in the brush settings that says "Mix brush tips with darken". It makes your paint blend in a more Photoshop-y way instead of the strange way it does by default. Felt much more natural to me.

  • Options
    NakedZerglingNakedZergling A more apocalyptic post apocalypse Portland OregonRegistered User regular
    Hey guys. I have a question. In the video linked here, the guy is using illustrator to ink. I like how after he draws the lines the like snap straighter. Can this be done in photoshop to, or just illustrator?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Btr_o_vgFJw

  • Options
    m3nacem3nace Registered User regular
    Pretty sure it's only possible in Illustrator and other vector based programs (Manga studio, Sai maybe?)

  • Options
    MagicToasterMagicToaster JapanRegistered User regular
    Yeah, that's just Illustrator simplifying the line. Photoshop won't do that.

  • Options
    FlayFlay Registered User regular
    edited April 2014
    Does anyone know of any resources online that go through the construction of a perfect cube in THREE point perspective? I've only found one, and it's full of technical jargon.

    I'm doing some exercises that involve me drawing a freehand cube, then constructing it again in perspective to check my accuracy.

    Flay on
  • Options
    ChicoBlueChicoBlue Registered User regular
    edited April 2014
    How much do you know about constructing a proper perspective set up?

    Do you know about station points, measuring points, cones of vision, etc.?

    If you want to know how to create a PERFECT 3-point cube in perspective, those are the sorts of things that you'll need to know.

    If you're just looking for something to quickly compare some loose sketches to, then I'd suggest getting Google Sketchup, making a cube, setting the Face Style to X-Ray, using the Line tool to create some lines on top of the edges and extend them out to the distance and glancing at that as you doodle.

    ChicoBlue on
Sign In or Register to comment.