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Help me to buy a car! (Doesn't need to be cheap used, but I'm losing perspective)

LoneIgadzraLoneIgadzra Registered User regular
edited December 2011 in Help / Advice Forum
My current car is a '90 Camry. It has lasted forever, as they do, but lately it's hemorrhaging oil (could be over a $1000 repair) and I'm just tired of how unpleasant it is to drive, the bi-annual $800 repair, etc. I consider my maximum price to be $18,000 on a 5-year loan.

Until now I have not given a single damn about cars in my entire life, so it's all very bewildering. I've been around to all of the nearest dealers to try their latest models in my price range (Toyota, Honda, Ford, gotta go further afield for more selection), and at first I didn't give a shit, it was just a bunch of new cars that drove 100x better than my current car, but then it kind of jumped out at me that Civics are significantly more enjoyable to drive than a lot of the competition. The problem is everybody else seems to agree, so they tend to be a lot more expensive than, say, a Corolla, and don't depreciate at all. (Also, the basic model is impossible to find, and doesn't have air conditioning!)

And now I'm all befuddled by the fact that the only car I've driven that I actually want is hovering just outside my price range. So to end the ramble, can you guys give some suggestions for how I should be approaching this (before I lose my head and go out of my price range), or what cars I should be looking at?

My only real criteria are I want to enjoy driving it and I want it to last 10 years and get decent gas mileage. I'm hoping to buy before Christmas so I can drive the five hours home to my parents without worrying about my car dying two hours from anywhere worthwhile. I live in western MA.

LoneIgadzra on

Posts

  • KafkaAUKafkaAU Western AustraliaRegistered User regular
    You can't go wrong with a Civic.

    Other good cars in a similar price range (note I am Australian so your prices may differ or even be a different name):
    Mazda 3,
    Mitsubishi Lancer,
    Subaru Impreza.

    These are all probably right at that top end of 18k though (At least in Aus!).

    My preference would be for the Mazda 3. I've driven a 3 and it was a great little car. I've owned a Mazda 6 MPS and now own a Mazda 6 Hatch. I test drove a brand new lancer and impreza before buying the 6, both were good but the 6 had a bigger back seat and it was a family car. You'll get people who are in all the camps, the best advice, IMO, is, find a few cars you like, test drive them all, then decide. Consider stuff like boot sizes and other requirements such as back seat comfortableness (if you carry passengers often) etc.

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  • Blake TBlake T Do you have enemies then? Good. That means you’ve stood up for something, sometime in your life.Registered User regular
    What is the price of the civic?

    I just signed the papers to a new car (a 1.4turbo cruze) last week. Things I learnt.

    There are online car brokers that exist on the Internet. I paid a guy ten dollars and he got the ticket intial price of $25,975 down to $22,790. I took that number to the dealer and asked for another $100 dollars off that price and told them I wasn't interested if they could match it.

    Once you sign the papers though they will try and fleece the fuck out of you. Extended warranty is your choice but I'd say no. Tinting is great. Do your research in regards to this though. Before you go in, find a tinting place, (google them for reviews, or google their name + problems) ask them for a quote. The dealership wanted to charge me 300 dollars more than what the tinting place would.

    Also google the dealership for reviews and problems.

  • Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    99% of the aftersales stuff is utter crap.

    Scotchguarding your interior isn't a terrible idea per se, but some nice fitted seat covers are a much better idea.

    "Paint protection"? Fuck no.

    Underbody rust protection? Definitely no way. All that shit does is end up trapping moisture, rather than inhibiting it. And it makes it much harder for underbody work/repairs.

    Any kind of magic box of sparks they want to fit that is supposed to stop corrosion/rust? Look 'em dead in the eye, and tell 'em to eat shit. This is homeopathy for cars.

  • Blake TBlake T Do you have enemies then? Good. That means you’ve stood up for something, sometime in your life.Registered User regular
    Well technically it does work.

    The reason why it does work is that they wash the car behind they rub their magic beans in it.

    Wash and polish you car once a year and it will be fine.

  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    Stay away from American cars in this class that aren't Ford.

    Mazda 3s are very nice. A base model hatch would come in ever so slightly over your number, but the sedan would be no problem. Lancers are alright, but they just feel cheap to me when compared to a 3. Subarus are nice but might be a little too expensive. You might also check out the Hyundai Veloster, I haven't tried one, but on paper the base model has got to about the most awesomely equipped base model I've ever seen.

  • LoneIgadzraLoneIgadzra Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    It's not dealer BS that gives me trouble (I've done my homework), it's just trying to find my way to not paying a $2000+ premium just to get a car that I enjoy driving, when a cheaper, uglier one will meet all my other criteria and wouldn't be bad to drive. I'd be really lucky to get a new Civic for $18,000 around here, but I can find plenty of Toyotas and hatchbacks that will be fuel efficient and reliable for $16,000 or less.

    Mazda 3 is one I've been meaning to try, but they tend to run higher than civics if I'm not mistaken.

    LoneIgadzra on
  • wonderpugwonderpug Registered User regular
    Since you live in a region that gets snow, I highly recommend you consider sticking to an all wheel drive car. I live in eastern Mass, and I feel oh so smug every time I see other people spinning their tires trying to get out of a parking spot when I'm able to just push on out with my Subaru. It's safer when you're on the move in snow, too, of course.

  • DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    And now I'm all befuddled by the fact that the only car I've driven that I actually want is hovering just outside my price range. So to end the ramble, can you guys give some suggestions for how I should be approaching this (before I lose my head and go out of my price range), or what cars I should be looking at?

    You've already isolated it.
    My only real criteria are I want to enjoy driving it and I want it to last 10 years and get decent gas mileage.

    If the car you've fixated on is above your price range, ask yourself if there's another car that fits your criteria that you can get cheaper (net of any included maintenance and warranty). That said, you're going to be driving it at least 10 years, right? May want to have something that gives you some enjoyment/comfort while driving rather than just being a transportation appliance; may cost you $2K+ or more over something that would get you from place to place just as well. Corollas are boring as hell, and due for an update (which will likely freshen the styling and might improve fuel economy), but they hold their value well and tend to have few problems. Also check this out, may make you think twice before buying the newest model Fords, and Scion repeats having lowest problem rate this year. Might even be worth paying CR to read the whole report.

  • LoneIgadzraLoneIgadzra Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    Heh, not the first time I've heard the AWD recommendation. I usually go with snow tires in the winter, which does the trick well enough. Last winter was insane, but I was cruising around in 6 inches of snow at times feeling pretty smug myself. (Of course buying a set of snow tires may be out of the question after dropping all my savings on a down payment and sales tax.)

    I guess, to put it more simply, I'm just wondering what are some cars people like, so I can make a point of trying them and expanding my options. Nothing I've driven so far jumped out at me except Honda. (Even the Fit made me think "wow, this is pretty nice and has great handling/space for a hatchback, too bad it reminds me of my parents' minivan".)

    LoneIgadzra on
  • adytumadytum The Inevitable Rise And FallRegistered User regular
    edited December 2011
    I'd take a serious look at Subaru. The Impreza is in your price range, and the Legacy might be with some haggling and/or dealer rebates. (you can get the base Legacy down to the mid-18's.)

    They're a blast to drive, last forever, drive great in inclement weather, hold their value, get good mileage for being AWD, etc.

    adytum on
  • Blake TBlake T Do you have enemies then? Good. That means you’ve stood up for something, sometime in your life.Registered User regular
    Like I said, I bought the 1.4T cruze, they (at least in Australia) are no longer built in Asia and are made in south Australia.

    I didn't really look too hard at the honda but I've driven the Mazda 3 and I wasn't a huge fan and I've driven plenty of corollas over the years.

    Really though think of it this way, if you do a lot of commuting $3000 dollars isn't a lot if you really enjoy it. I mean if you keep the car for ten years it's an extra 300 dollars a year, which is less than a dollar a day (or you could say two dollars a day conservatively due to interest) to drive something you enjoy.

  • Count FunkulaCount Funkula Registered User regular
    Check out Scion. Good quality (made by Toyota), more fun/interesting than standard Toyota cars, and cheap.

  • XArchangelXXArchangelX Registered User regular
    Also seriously consider looking for a used variant of what you want. If you find a 2-year old car with decent mileage at a dealers Used section, you could find something for a lot cheaper. A new car loses >30% of it's value in the first two years.

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  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    Also seriously consider looking for a used variant of what you want. If you find a 2-year old car with decent mileage at a dealers Used section, you could find something for a lot cheaper. A new car loses >30% of it's value in the first two years.

    A lot of the time getting a new car with a <2% (maybe even 0%) APR deal can cost less in the long run than that 2 or 3 year old car that you wont be able to get a rate that low on. You've just gotta shop around and play with the math.

    MushroomStick on
  • XArchangelXXArchangelX Registered User regular
    Also seriously consider looking for a used variant of what you want. If you find a 2-year old car with decent mileage at a dealers Used section, you could find something for a lot cheaper. A new car loses >30% of it's value in the first two years.

    A lot of the time getting a new car with a <2% (maybe even 0%) APR deal can cost less in the long run than that 2 or 3 year old car that you wont be able to get a rate that low on. You've just gotta shop around and play with the math.

    Well, it does depend on the exact nature of the eventual deal you could get, but let me give an example of what I'm talking about. If he buys a car that started out at 18k, but is 2 yo, it's now worth about 12.6k. I have a friend who only buys cars from Carmax(Some friends are weird), and the highest interest he's ever had was 2.5%. If you buy a new 18k car, you lose 5400 in value in the first 2 years, so realistically, there's already a hefty APR built into the purchase. Total interest on the used would come out to 3150, less depending on the size of the downpayment and if you can get a deal.

    - A 2yo used car has any mechanical kinks worked out, ie its burned in
    - Lower cost also means it's paid for sooner, freeing up income for important stuff, ie hookers, blow

    This is why paying cash for a good used car is usually the best way to buy a car, and why leasing is the most expensive way to operate a motor vehicle. Leasing = You get to pay for that initial lost value+interest, but don't get use of the car when the depreciation slows down to something reasonable.

    Eve Online is a terrible game, but I used to play, for the lulz!
    Steam
    Only the strong can help the weak.
  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    Your 30% rule kind of got broken in most of the US when the whole cash for clunkers thing crushed the used car market into tiny cubes though. Even if that weren't an issue there's still the fact that new cars come with infinitely better warranties than used cars.

  • XArchangelXXArchangelX Registered User regular
    Can you explain that? I don't understand how CfC "crushed the used car market" or broke the 30% rule. It was two years ago, lasted less than two months, and only affected 690k total cars.

    Eve Online is a terrible game, but I used to play, for the lulz!
    Steam
    Only the strong can help the weak.
  • LoneIgadzraLoneIgadzra Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    Anyone have any suggestions for determining what kind of money to try to get out of my 1990 Camry? Honestly it still runs great, but probably looking at over a $1000 repair to fix the oil leaking (significant labor just to diagnose) and it's starting to have a little rust. Foisting it back off on my parents who live five hours away is an amusing logistical challenge.

    All the cars I'm looking at don't depreciate at all, from what I've seen shopping used, so it's better to get the warrantee, better interest rates, etc on a new car. Basically the good used car market has shrunk drastically, and everyone wants the (relatively) small, fuel-efficient cars.

    Just tried a Mazda 3, I'm definitely a fan as it's the tightest and most responsive of everything I've tried, and the dealer has a decent price with no hidden bullshit or haggling. (That alone is enough to sell me, that shit drives me nuts.)

    I'll probably be doing a more in-depth comparison with the civic and springing for either my favorite (if I have one) or the one that the dealer gives me a significantly lower price on. I doubt I'll regret buying either, as they both seem like they'll last and be enjoyable to own. Since I'm throwing in the towel and accepting an $18,000 price point, I'll try the subaru too.

    LoneIgadzra on
  • Blake TBlake T Do you have enemies then? Good. That means you’ve stood up for something, sometime in your life.Registered User regular
    Yeah 30% depreciation isn't a hard and fast rule.

    Additionally for the cars that it doesn't apply to, it's because there is a lack of second hand supply. I was looking for a diesel manual golf for a while and just gave up because the entire time that I was looking for them, exactly two were available.

    I mean sure, if you can find a good second hand deal, take it for sure. But if you can't find it, then you may as well look at other things.

  • DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    Can you explain that? I don't understand how CfC "crushed the used car market" or broke the 30% rule. It was two years ago, lasted less than two months, and only affected 690k total cars.

    I don't know how it did either, but I saw my '04 Forester KBB value appreciate over time during CfC and sold it for $11K in May '10 (more than KBB from April '09). In late '09 I couldn't get better than $4.5K trade-in cause (I think) dealers were moving so much inventory due to CfC. I've no idea if that pattern has persisted til today, but I'm pretty sure a lot of driveable cars got crushed that would still be running $1-3K cars today.

  • wonderpugwonderpug Registered User regular
    Oh, don't forget to factor in the MA excise tax into your figures for your new car. You're probably used to paying $25 or at most $50 each year, but a $20k car in its model year will be $450.

  • WassermeloneWassermelone Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    I don't know what your personal style preferences are so this might be completely off base, but take a look at the Honda Fit. I think its pretty cool and I don't tend to like hatchbacks.
    Its got great mileage - for my wife and I its actually higher than their advertised MPG, and personally I like the way it drives. Kind of go-kart-y.

    I would, however, suggest the sport option over the base model.

    Wassermelone on
  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    Can you explain that? I don't understand how CfC "crushed the used car market" or broke the 30% rule. It was two years ago, lasted less than two months, and only affected 690k total cars.

    Maybe it shows more in some areas than others, but when the whole cfc thing was going on, the literally crushed all the cars that were traded in under the program. Around where I am, its still rare to drive past a dealership with more than a dozen or so used cars on the lot and I've personally seen asking prices that are as high as 3-4 times blue book values on the few they do have.

  • LoneIgadzraLoneIgadzra Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    wonderpug wrote:
    Oh, don't forget to factor in the MA excise tax into your figures for your new car. You're probably used to paying $25 or at most $50 each year, but a $20k car in its model year will be $450.

    Thanks, almost forgot about that.

    I don't know what your personal style preferences are so this might be completely off base, but take a look at the Honda Fit. I think its pretty cool and I don't tend to like hatchbacks.
    Its got great mileage - for my wife and I its actually higher than their advertised MPG, and personally I like the way it drives. Kind of go-kart-y.

    I would, however, suggest the sport option over the base model.

    Yeah, I tried one. It really impressed me, objectively - great interior space, great handling, real peppy, good price. It just seems like more of a family "minivan" type vehicle. So my emotional reaction is negative because it reminds my of my parents' minivan when I'm driving it and I don't really like how it looks on the outside.

    LoneIgadzra on
  • XArchangelXXArchangelX Registered User regular
    edited December 2011
    Ok, that makes sense. Definitely a regional thing, probably had a serious impact on smaller market areas. Here in Chicago there's at least a 100 used cars up on CL every day, and I drive past three used car dealerships on the way to work that don't appear to have inventory issues. Just last month I bought a crappy old mini-van for $600, 200< than it's KBB. Yeah, I know, anecdotal BS, but it just seems like the market would correct the cfc thing pretty quick.

    Edit: Funny story, I was recently looking to purchase a crappy old car, and someone put a 94 camry, 200k+ miles, but otherwise in good condition. I e-mailed to get a chance to look at it, and she told me that she was doing a showing at 2pm on a weekday since so many people asked to see it, and she wouldn't take less than the $850 asking price.

    However, with the $1000 in repairs, you're not going to get $$TEXAS$$ for it. You'll just get mechanics who want to get it for <$300, fix it, and re-sell it. On CL it's called a !!MECHANICS SPECIAL@@!!

    XArchangelX on
    Eve Online is a terrible game, but I used to play, for the lulz!
    Steam
    Only the strong can help the weak.
  • Jimmy KingJimmy King Registered User regular
    It's not dealer BS that gives me trouble (I've done my homework), it's just trying to find my way to not paying a $2000+ premium just to get a car that I enjoy driving, when a cheaper, uglier one will meet all my other criteria and wouldn't be bad to drive. I'd be really lucky to get a new Civic for $18,000 around here, but I can find plenty of Toyotas and hatchbacks that will be fuel efficient and reliable for $16,000 or less.

    Mazda 3 is one I've been meaning to try, but they tend to run higher than civics if I'm not mistaken.
    If you're ok with the little 2.0L Mazda 3, you can get into the one a step above the base model for $14k-$16k. I just went through this crap over the summer and that is what I ended up with. It wasn't quite as fun to drive as I wanted, but I've got a proper gas guzzling beast for my fun car, and even the 2.0l does a very good approximation of a sports car for the price. It feels like a much faster/sportier car until you really push it. It gets off the line fairly quickly, has a nice stiff suspension for an economy car, etc.

  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    Jimmy King wrote:
    It's not dealer BS that gives me trouble (I've done my homework), it's just trying to find my way to not paying a $2000+ premium just to get a car that I enjoy driving, when a cheaper, uglier one will meet all my other criteria and wouldn't be bad to drive. I'd be really lucky to get a new Civic for $18,000 around here, but I can find plenty of Toyotas and hatchbacks that will be fuel efficient and reliable for $16,000 or less.

    Mazda 3 is one I've been meaning to try, but they tend to run higher than civics if I'm not mistaken.
    If you're ok with the little 2.0L Mazda 3, you can get into the one a step above the base model for $14k-$16k. I just went through this crap over the summer and that is what I ended up with. It wasn't quite as fun to drive as I wanted, but I've got a proper gas guzzling beast for my fun car, and even the 2.0l does a very good approximation of a sports car for the price. It feels like a much faster/sportier car until you really push it. It gets off the line fairly quickly, has a nice stiff suspension for an economy car, etc.

    With the 2012 Mazda 3's, he could go for the i Touring 4 door and get the new skyactiv engine that's got almost as much horsepower as the 2.5 liter, but supposedly gets around 40mpg. It would be right at the top of the budget he's set, but it'd be a reasonably fun car to drive that's pretty damn good on gas too.

    Alternatively, I'm going to again suggest checking out the Hyundai Veloster. The base model stickers for $17,300 and already has most of the luxuries included.

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