After several dozen panic attacks - the highlights included such hits as "oh god should I be pushing this hard on the CPU latch" and "why are all my fan plugs female" (it took me an hour to realize the male ends had dummy covers) - and, like, seven hours, I finally hit power for the first time.
It booted!
Then I promptly ran around my apt punching the air Rocky-style. I felt like a god.
Thanks to everyone in this thread and in chat for all your help!
I can't wait to play some games!
I still can't believe you got it to boot without offering a blood tithe.
You lucked out, my friend.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
I cut myself on my second to last build on the CPU heatsink, don't think my last build I offered a sacrifice. I was in a flurry to put it together as fast as possible.
Any video card & processor suggestions? Low-end stuff for my parents' computer.
What about this RAM? That should work, right? 1.5v, and I've got a 15% off coupon for it.
The RAM I linked earlier is cheaper and you wont notice a difference between 1333 and 1600 RAM. If you were going with a beefier system Id definitely recommend the 1600, but on an i3 where you may end up using the integrated graphics its just extra money you dont need to spend.
Any video card & processor suggestions? Low-end stuff for my parents' computer.
What about this RAM? That should work, right? 1.5v, and I've got a 15% off coupon for it.
The RAM I linked earlier is cheaper and you wont notice a difference between 1333 and 1600 RAM. If you were going with a beefier system Id definitely recommend the 1600, but on an i3 where you may end up using the integrated graphics its just extra money you dont need to spend.
Well, I mean, I'm trying to keep costs down, but a $12-$15 price increase for twice as much faster RAM seems like a pretty good return on investment, right?
Why not just get this? I wouldn't trust Wintec, honestly.
LGA 1155 shows very small benefits from increased RAM speeds.
Also, I found this RAM, which is only 1.35V. I know above 1.5V isn't suitable for 1155, but does below that number matter? Is this intended for overclocking or something?
After several dozen panic attacks - the highlights included such hits as "oh god should I be pushing this hard on the CPU latch" and "why are all my fan plugs female" (it took me an hour to realize the male ends had dummy covers) - and, like, seven hours, I finally hit power for the first time.
It booted!
Then I promptly ran around my apt punching the air Rocky-style. I felt like a god.
Thanks to everyone in this thread and in chat for all your help!
I can't wait to play some games!
I still can't believe you got it to boot without offering a blood tithe.
You lucked out, my friend.
Oh I'll be offering a blood tithe. Imperial blood. Spilled my Nord's blade.
Why not just get this? I wouldn't trust Wintec, honestly.
LGA 1155 shows very small benefits from increased RAM speeds.
Also, I found this RAM, which is only 1.35V. I know above 1.5V isn't suitable for 1155, but does below that number matter? Is this intended for overclocking or something?
What about this? Corsair stuff is good, correct? Between MIR and my coupon code, it gets down to $22.
Why not just get this? I wouldn't trust Wintec, honestly.
LGA 1155 shows very small benefits from increased RAM speeds.
Also, I found this RAM, which is only 1.35V. I know above 1.5V isn't suitable for 1155, but does below that number matter? Is this intended for overclocking or something?
What about this? Corsair stuff is good, correct? Between MIR and my coupon code, it gets down to $22.
This kit is five bucks cheaper, and faster to boot. Unless your coupon is limited by brands. If you don't care at all about speed this G skill is the same speed as that corsair stuff and significantly cheaper.
e: I'm an idiot and don't see rebates.
So yeah that corsair stuff seems pretty cheap and should work just fine.
Anandtech has a writeup that, while old by now, is still 100% accurate as far as RAM speeds on sandybridge. Just ignore their price comparisons since the price of DDR3 in the wild has changed since then. The real world speed differences are accurate though.
So I'm about to buy the parts for my computer FINALLY, I had to wait for my tax return but it has been so long since Alecthar was kind enough to suggest parts for me most of the deals and or parts are no longer available. I had a 6-700$ budget, already have monitor, speakers, M&KB. This was the original list of suggested parts.
So I'm about to buy the parts for my computer FINALLY, I had to wait for my tax return but it has been so long since Alecthar was kind enough to suggest parts for me most of the deals and or parts are no longer available. I had a 6-700$ budget, already have monitor, speakers, M&KB. This was the original list of suggested parts.
Do you also need an OS? With that budget, I think an i3 would be better (the i5 is the better chip, but it just eats up too much of the budget to be worth it). And how do you feel about open-box motherboards, because there are some really great deals on open-box motherboards.
So I'm about to buy the parts for my computer FINALLY, I had to wait for my tax return but it has been so long since Alecthar was kind enough to suggest parts for me most of the deals and or parts are no longer available. I had a 6-700$ budget, already have monitor, speakers, M&KB. This was the original list of suggested parts.
So I'm about to buy the parts for my computer FINALLY, I had to wait for my tax return but it has been so long since Alecthar was kind enough to suggest parts for me most of the deals and or parts are no longer available. I had a 6-700$ budget, already have monitor, speakers, M&KB. This was the original list of suggested parts.
Do you also need an OS? With that budget, I think an i3 would be better (the i5 is the better chip, but it just eats up too much of the budget to be worth it). And how do you feel about open-box motherboards, because there are some really great deals on open-box motherboards.
Sorry it took so long to respond, I was at work, I would be willing to downgrade to an i3 to save some money if it doesn't affect the build too much. I'm not trying to get super insane graphics out of this build but it would be nice to run some current games on high settings and admire the pretty. Open box means refurbished right? If newegg is good about replacing them if they are faulty I'm all for cost saving methods. I don't have windows 7 but I do have XP so I'd be willing to hold off on a new OS.
So I'm about to buy the parts for my computer FINALLY, I had to wait for my tax return but it has been so long since Alecthar was kind enough to suggest parts for me most of the deals and or parts are no longer available. I had a 6-700$ budget, already have monitor, speakers, M&KB. This was the original list of suggested parts.
Do you also need an OS? With that budget, I think an i3 would be better (the i5 is the better chip, but it just eats up too much of the budget to be worth it). And how do you feel about open-box motherboards, because there are some really great deals on open-box motherboards.
Sorry it took so long to respond, I was at work, I would be willing to downgrade to an i3 to save some money if it doesn't affect the build too much. I'm not trying to get super insane graphics out of this build but it would be nice to run some current games on high settings and admire the pretty. Open box means refurbished right? If newegg is good about replacing them if they are faulty I'm all for cost saving methods. I don't have windows 7 but I do have XP so I'd be willing to hold off on a new OS.
You should be able to run anything out now just fine with an i3. Going for more punch on the CPU really only makes sense if you either do things that aren't game related, or you are running a multiGPU setup.
As far as open box, newegg open box stuff has never done me wrong, just be aware that sometimes you won't get all the sata cables for instance with a motherboard, so you might need to track some down yourself if you don't have any on hand.
Microcenter seems to have pretty goof prices for SATA cables if you need them. When I realized I was one short for my build someone in chat commented that I'd be spending around 20 bucks. I paid $6 for a SATA2 (my Mobo only had two slots for 3s and I was fine using a 2 for my optical drive... the 3s the Mobo came with went to my HDD and SSD)
I should post some rig pictures on Monday.
Also I'm kinda tempted to open it up again and fiddle with my rather ugly job of cable management... but on the other hand, everything works on I'd cry if I screwed something up now.
EDIT: wow, I just realized how lucky I am. There's only one Microcenter in my entire STATE (PA), and it happens to be a 20 minute WALK from my home.
That's fortuitous. Especially since I don't have a cat.
APODionysus on
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Lord_SnotЖиву за выходныеAmerican ValhallaRegistered Userregular
Microcenter seems to have pretty goof prices for SATA cables if you need them. When I realized I was one short for my build someone in chat commented that I'd be spending around 20 bucks. I paid $6 for a SATA2 (my Mobo only had two slots for 3s and I was fine using a 2 for my optical drive... the 3s the Mobo came with went to my HDD and SSD)
I should post some rig pictures on Monday.
Also I'm kinda tempted to open it up again and fiddle with my rather ugly job of cable management... but on the other hand, everything works on I'd cry if I screwed something up now.
EDIT: wow, I just realized how lucky I am. There's only one Microcenter in my entire STATE (PA), and it happens to be a 20 minute WALK from my home.
That's fortuitous. Especially since I don't have a cat.
Send the cat out to collect the cables, would you? :P
Microcenter seems to have pretty goof prices for SATA cables if you need them. When I realized I was one short for my build someone in chat commented that I'd be spending around 20 bucks. I paid $6 for a SATA2 (my Mobo only had two slots for 3s and I was fine using a 2 for my optical drive... the 3s the Mobo came with went to my HDD and SSD)
I should post some rig pictures on Monday.
Also I'm kinda tempted to open it up again and fiddle with my rather ugly job of cable management... but on the other hand, everything works on I'd cry if I screwed something up now.
EDIT: wow, I just realized how lucky I am. There's only one Microcenter in my entire STATE (PA), and it happens to be a 20 minute WALK from my home.
That's fortuitous. Especially since I don't have a cat.
Send the cat out to collect the cables, would you? :P
Hiya computer thread! I'm wrapping up my first build (successful POST on the first try, yay), and I'm satisfied with everything I got, save for the stock fans that came with my case, which are not even worth keeping. What are some good 140mm fans out there?
I'm finally replacing my Core2 Duo E4500 / 2GB DDR2 800 RAM system that's been saddled with a shitty Micro-ATX motherboard for the past 4 years. The only thing I'm keeping is the DVD drive, the X-Fi card, and of course the mouse & keyboard. Everything else is a whole new computer, it's gonna blow the smoke off the old one. I've gotten tired of paying extra for old tech just because it's the only thing that will work/fit in this computer. I'm tired of buying games on Steam and not really knowing if they're going to work or not. Finally I can actually get something faster than a GeForce 240 card (because of space issues).
I was aiming for $1,000, which I went over slightly, but considering that I'm replacing EVERYTHING (case, PSU, the works), I'm not too disappointed. This is probably considered a mid-range or even a budget system nowadays, but consider what I'm coming from. I think I managed a pretty good bang for the buck.
I roll with horizontal HTPC cases, and I'm adamant about going full ATX so as not to create any upgrade roadblocks like last time. I found this snazzy-looking wooden case that's actually gotten good reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204039
I decided on the Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3 motherboard because it was described as a perfect pairing with the Core i5, and it still has an Ivy Bridge upgrade path if the time comes (although usually I just drive computers into the ground until it's time to replace them with new architecture): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UDITPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
It's time to experience the joys of an SSD boot drive. There's a major jump in price going past 128GB, so I'm staying there. Going with the OCZ Vertex 4 based on its performance reputation: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227791
Throw in a few odds and ends like cable ties and a mini-HDMI adapter that the video card woefully doesn't include, and you have a $1200 gaming HTPC after rebates.
I haven't actually hit the button yet. It's past 4 in the morning, so I'm going to bed. I figure that anyone who has any objections they'd like to point out has about 12 hours to do so!
First, that case looks awesome. I assume its pretty terrible for airflow, but the thing looks pretty damn great.
Personally Id grab the 2500k over the 2550 since youre (I assume, since youre getting a k processor) just going to overclock it anyway. And then if you ever transcode anything you might be able to take advantage of the integrated GPU which can drastically speed up the process.
Id also think about going with the 560ti over the 560 if you could fit it in your budget.
Also, new CPUs and Nvidia GPUs should be coming out soonish so if you wait you may see better prices. Although that hard drive is tempting since hard drive prices are pretty fucking crazy right now.
First, that case looks awesome. I assume its pretty terrible for airflow, but the thing looks pretty damn great.
Personally Id grab the 2500k over the 2550 since youre (I assume, since youre getting a k processor) just going to overclock it anyway. And then if you ever transcode anything you might be able to take advantage of the integrated GPU which can drastically speed up the process.
Id also think about going with the 560ti over the 560 if you could fit it in your budget.
Also, new CPUs and Nvidia GPUs should be coming out soonish so if you wait you may see better prices. Although that hard drive is tempting since hard drive prices are pretty fucking crazy right now.
I keep expecting people to call that case hokey, like something out of Skymall, but everyone who sees it falls in love with it. I'm hoping that airflow is decent enough for my needs once I add the two front case fans to help out the 140mm exhaust. I don't think the case has a PSU intake vent to suck in cool outside air, but that's not the end of the world. And of course, wood doesn't radiate heat like metal does. On the plus side, I hear that the wood makes the case extremely quiet.
I think I'll take your CPU advice. It's only a .1GHz difference between the two processors, and yeah I'm going to try a modest overclock (hence the aftermarket cooler). Good trade-off to get faster transcoding speed (even though I don't expect to use that very often at all).
I don't think I can go any higher on the video card, the 560 is $160 after rebate which is quite a lot lower than the 560ti. Changing the CPU only nets a $10 savings, doesn't really make up for it. Keep in mind what video performance I'm coming from -- GT240; the 560 will knock my socks off well enough, I think. Something tells me I'll have no room to complain!
I know that if I wait a couple of months, the new stuff will come out and drive these prices down. But I really hate this computer I have now and I'm ready to throw down for an all new architecture.
Thanks for looking over my stuff. Good to hear that I didn't make any egregious errors.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
@Vegan - that case may be the coolest thing ever. It looks just like my dad's record player.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
First, that case looks awesome. I assume its pretty terrible for airflow, but the thing looks pretty damn great.
Personally Id grab the 2500k over the 2550 since youre (I assume, since youre getting a k processor) just going to overclock it anyway. And then if you ever transcode anything you might be able to take advantage of the integrated GPU which can drastically speed up the process.
Id also think about going with the 560ti over the 560 if you could fit it in your budget.
Also, new CPUs and Nvidia GPUs should be coming out soonish so if you wait you may see better prices. Although that hard drive is tempting since hard drive prices are pretty fucking crazy right now.
I keep expecting people to call that case hokey, like something out of Skymall, but everyone who sees it falls in love with it. I'm hoping that airflow is decent enough for my needs once I add the two front case fans to help out the 140mm exhaust. I don't think the case has a PSU intake vent to suck in cool outside air, but that's not the end of the world. And of course, wood doesn't radiate heat like metal does. On the plus side, I hear that the wood makes the case extremely quiet.
I think I'll take your CPU advice. It's only a .1GHz difference between the two processors, and yeah I'm going to try a modest overclock (hence the aftermarket cooler). Good trade-off to get faster transcoding speed (even though I don't expect to use that very often at all).
I don't think I can go any higher on the video card, the 560 is $160 after rebate which is quite a lot lower than the 560ti. Changing the CPU only nets a $10 savings, doesn't really make up for it. Keep in mind what video performance I'm coming from -- GT240; the 560 will knock my socks off well enough, I think. Something tells me I'll have no room to complain!
I know that if I wait a couple of months, the new stuff will come out and drive these prices down. But I really hate this computer I have now and I'm ready to throw down for an all new architecture.
Thanks for looking over my stuff. Good to hear that I didn't make any egregious errors.
Wait, after looking at your RAM, get this instead. Its cheaper, twice as much RAM, and the voltage is 1.5 instead of 1.65 (voltages over 1.5 can damage Sandybridge chips).
The RAM is slower, but you really dont notice a performance increase over 1600.
Wait, after looking at your RAM, get this instead. Its cheaper, twice as much RAM, and the voltage is 1.5 instead of 1.65 (voltages over 1.5 can damage Sandybridge chips).
The RAM is slower, but you really dont notice a performance increase over 1600.
The details say it's 1.65v...
I'll poke around and see what I can find based on that suggestion, though, if it's really not much difference. And yeah, it's certainly way cheaper.
Wait, after looking at your RAM, get this instead. Its cheaper, twice as much RAM, and the voltage is 1.5 instead of 1.65 (voltages over 1.5 can damage Sandybridge chips).
The RAM is slower, but you really dont notice a performance increase over 1600.
The details say it's 1.65v...
I'll poke around and see what I can find based on that suggestion, though, if it's really not much difference. And yeah, it's certainly way cheaper.
Those are all solid brands, and those should all be good to go with SB.
Man, I really want another pair of 23" panels, a Z77 board, and a pair of 7970s (this is why I shouldn't look around Newegg). Now if only I can find a job for after graduation, this can happen.
Wait, after looking at your RAM, get this instead. Its cheaper, twice as much RAM, and the voltage is 1.5 instead of 1.65 (voltages over 1.5 can damage Sandybridge chips).
The RAM is slower, but you really dont notice a performance increase over 1600.
The details say it's 1.65v...
I'll poke around and see what I can find based on that suggestion, though, if it's really not much difference. And yeah, it's certainly way cheaper.
Those are all solid brands, and those should all be good to go with SB.
Man, I really want another pair of 23" panels, a Z77 board, and a pair of 7970s (this is why I shouldn't look around Newegg). Now if only I can find a job for after graduation, this can happen.
You can also save some money by getting a 120GB Vertex3 instead of the brand new Vertex 4. The 4 will no doubt be faster, but I also have no doubt that the 3 will be so blazingly fast that without having a direct side-by-side comparison you'll never notice the difference. I have a 120GB Agility 3 and I consider it the best PC component purchase I've ever made.
And between dropping down to the Vertex 3, 1600 RAM, and the 2500k, you'll have enough to upgrade to a 560Ti. And overall you'll have a much better gaming machine.
I'd definitely second dropping down to a vertex3 instead of the 4.
The 4 is based on a brand new controller that OCZ just released. As with all SSDs it's bound to have a few issues as it matures, especially since OCZ themselves have said they need to deploy some firmware tweaks to it to get sequential read speeds up from their currently not very good level.
I dropped it down to a Crucial M4. $50 savings, and a reputation for reliability. So many SSD horror stories have me wary of that part more than any other (second to the mechanical HDD, I guess nothing changes).
I dropped it down to a Crucial M4. $50 savings, and a reputation for reliability. So many SSD horror stories have me wary of that part more than any other (second to the mechanical HDD, I guess nothing changes).
Just to put your mind a bit at ease, most of those horror stories were fixed with a relatively recent firmware update. I haven't had a single issue with my Agility 3.
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I still can't believe you got it to boot without offering a blood tithe.
You lucked out, my friend.
The RAM I linked earlier is cheaper and you wont notice a difference between 1333 and 1600 RAM. If you were going with a beefier system Id definitely recommend the 1600, but on an i3 where you may end up using the integrated graphics its just extra money you dont need to spend.
LGA 1155 shows very small benefits from increased RAM speeds.
Also, I found this RAM, which is only 1.35V. I know above 1.5V isn't suitable for 1155, but does below that number matter? Is this intended for overclocking or something?
That said most sandybridge boards are fine with ram down around 1.3v, so if it's cheap and runs at a decent speed it's just fine.
Oh I'll be offering a blood tithe. Imperial blood. Spilled my Nord's blade.
Tonight.
One of the case fans is noisy! sounds unbalanced! boo!
how many and what size partitions should I make? (300gb to work with)
This kit is five bucks cheaper, and faster to boot. Unless your coupon is limited by brands. If you don't care at all about speed this G skill is the same speed as that corsair stuff and significantly cheaper.
e: I'm an idiot and don't see rebates.
So yeah that corsair stuff seems pretty cheap and should work just fine.
Anandtech has a writeup that, while old by now, is still 100% accurate as far as RAM speeds on sandybridge. Just ignore their price comparisons since the price of DDR3 in the wild has changed since then. The real world speed differences are accurate though.
NZXT Beta Evo
Antec Neo Eco 520W (Enough power for dual 6850s)
Sapphire Radeon 6850
4GB A-Data DDR3
500GB 7200 RPM Seagate HDD
i5-2500K + ASUS P8P67
Do you also need an OS? With that budget, I think an i3 would be better (the i5 is the better chip, but it just eats up too much of the budget to be worth it). And how do you feel about open-box motherboards, because there are some really great deals on open-box motherboards.
Newegg has a XFX 6870 for $140 after rebate. Via slickdeals.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Sorry it took so long to respond, I was at work, I would be willing to downgrade to an i3 to save some money if it doesn't affect the build too much. I'm not trying to get super insane graphics out of this build but it would be nice to run some current games on high settings and admire the pretty. Open box means refurbished right? If newegg is good about replacing them if they are faulty I'm all for cost saving methods. I don't have windows 7 but I do have XP so I'd be willing to hold off on a new OS.
You should be able to run anything out now just fine with an i3. Going for more punch on the CPU really only makes sense if you either do things that aren't game related, or you are running a multiGPU setup.
As far as open box, newegg open box stuff has never done me wrong, just be aware that sometimes you won't get all the sata cables for instance with a motherboard, so you might need to track some down yourself if you don't have any on hand.
I should post some rig pictures on Monday.
Also I'm kinda tempted to open it up again and fiddle with my rather ugly job of cable management... but on the other hand, everything works on I'd cry if I screwed something up now.
EDIT: wow, I just realized how lucky I am. There's only one Microcenter in my entire STATE (PA), and it happens to be a 20 minute WALK from my home.
That's fortuitous. Especially since I don't have a cat.
Send the cat out to collect the cables, would you? :P
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You know what? I'm just leaving that typo there.
I was aiming for $1,000, which I went over slightly, but considering that I'm replacing EVERYTHING (case, PSU, the works), I'm not too disappointed. This is probably considered a mid-range or even a budget system nowadays, but consider what I'm coming from. I think I managed a pretty good bang for the buck.
I roll with horizontal HTPC cases, and I'm adamant about going full ATX so as not to create any upgrade roadblocks like last time. I found this snazzy-looking wooden case that's actually gotten good reviews:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204039
The case allows for two 92mm front case fans, which I'm electing to add:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034AFDL4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
My current PSU is actually from two computers ago. It's something like 7 or 8 years old and I have no idea what it's rated, so it's being replaced, no questions asked. In the interest of tidiness, I'm going modular for the first time:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EYV690/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I chose the Core i5 2550K because it was recommended by Tom's Hardware recently as a "best bang for the buck" processor. It lacks an integrated GPU, which is fine by me; why pay for what you're not going to use?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072B9X12/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Keeping that Core i5 cool is a Cooler Master Hyper TX3. I would have liked a Hyper 212 Evo but height restrictions made it impossible:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028Y4S9K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I decided on the Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3 motherboard because it was described as a perfect pairing with the Core i5, and it still has an Ivy Bridge upgrade path if the time comes (although usually I just drive computers into the ground until it's time to replace them with new architecture):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UDITPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Going with high speed RAM since the motherboard supports it. Sticking with a pair of 4GB sticks for now, with room to bump it up to 16GB later if I feel like it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231476
It's time to experience the joys of an SSD boot drive. There's a major jump in price going past 128GB, so I'm staying there. Going with the OCZ Vertex 4 based on its performance reputation:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227791
Complementing the SSD is a 2TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRN2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Last but certainly not least, the chosen GPU is a factory overclocked GeForce GTX 560 1GB, light years ahead of the 9500GT that I had until four months ago when I replaced it with a still-pokey GT 240:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050I1PH4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Throw in a few odds and ends like cable ties and a mini-HDMI adapter that the video card woefully doesn't include, and you have a $1200 gaming HTPC after rebates.
I haven't actually hit the button yet. It's past 4 in the morning, so I'm going to bed. I figure that anyone who has any objections they'd like to point out has about 12 hours to do so!
(PS - I game at 1920x1080 on a 42" TV)
First, that case looks awesome. I assume its pretty terrible for airflow, but the thing looks pretty damn great.
Personally Id grab the 2500k over the 2550 since youre (I assume, since youre getting a k processor) just going to overclock it anyway. And then if you ever transcode anything you might be able to take advantage of the integrated GPU which can drastically speed up the process.
Id also think about going with the 560ti over the 560 if you could fit it in your budget.
Also, new CPUs and Nvidia GPUs should be coming out soonish so if you wait you may see better prices. Although that hard drive is tempting since hard drive prices are pretty fucking crazy right now.
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I keep expecting people to call that case hokey, like something out of Skymall, but everyone who sees it falls in love with it. I'm hoping that airflow is decent enough for my needs once I add the two front case fans to help out the 140mm exhaust. I don't think the case has a PSU intake vent to suck in cool outside air, but that's not the end of the world. And of course, wood doesn't radiate heat like metal does. On the plus side, I hear that the wood makes the case extremely quiet.
I think I'll take your CPU advice. It's only a .1GHz difference between the two processors, and yeah I'm going to try a modest overclock (hence the aftermarket cooler). Good trade-off to get faster transcoding speed (even though I don't expect to use that very often at all).
I don't think I can go any higher on the video card, the 560 is $160 after rebate which is quite a lot lower than the 560ti. Changing the CPU only nets a $10 savings, doesn't really make up for it. Keep in mind what video performance I'm coming from -- GT240; the 560 will knock my socks off well enough, I think. Something tells me I'll have no room to complain!
I know that if I wait a couple of months, the new stuff will come out and drive these prices down. But I really hate this computer I have now and I'm ready to throw down for an all new architecture.
Thanks for looking over my stuff. Good to hear that I didn't make any egregious errors.
My Mum taught me that if I don't have anything nice to say, then I should not say anything at all.
Wait, after looking at your RAM, get this instead. Its cheaper, twice as much RAM, and the voltage is 1.5 instead of 1.65 (voltages over 1.5 can damage Sandybridge chips).
The RAM is slower, but you really dont notice a performance increase over 1600.
would this get me a computer i won't have to worry about upgrading for 3-5 years?
Battle.net: Matt 3999 or [email protected]
PSN?: iammattpleevee
The details say it's 1.65v...
I'll poke around and see what I can find based on that suggestion, though, if it's really not much difference. And yeah, it's certainly way cheaper.
I think so.
I built mine and it cost a little under $800.
Here's my set up:
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 Mobo
G.SKILL Ripjaws 8GM RAM
GeForce GTX 560 video card
Corsair Enthusiast 560W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU cooler
The first thing I'll have to upgrade is going to be the video card, so drop the extra $30 for the 560ti (something I should have done, but oh well)
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A few other options:
Patriot
G.Skill
Mushkin
Those are all solid brands, and those should all be good to go with SB.
Man, I really want another pair of 23" panels, a Z77 board, and a pair of 7970s (this is why I shouldn't look around Newegg). Now if only I can find a job for after graduation, this can happen.
Battle.net: Matt 3999 or [email protected]
PSN?: iammattpleevee
You can also save some money by getting a 120GB Vertex3 instead of the brand new Vertex 4. The 4 will no doubt be faster, but I also have no doubt that the 3 will be so blazingly fast that without having a direct side-by-side comparison you'll never notice the difference. I have a 120GB Agility 3 and I consider it the best PC component purchase I've ever made.
And between dropping down to the Vertex 3, 1600 RAM, and the 2500k, you'll have enough to upgrade to a 560Ti. And overall you'll have a much better gaming machine.
The 4 is based on a brand new controller that OCZ just released. As with all SSDs it's bound to have a few issues as it matures, especially since OCZ themselves have said they need to deploy some firmware tweaks to it to get sequential read speeds up from their currently not very good level.
Just to put your mind a bit at ease, most of those horror stories were fixed with a relatively recent firmware update. I haven't had a single issue with my Agility 3.