So how does this look for a preliminary parts list? I won't be clicking the Buy button until January at the earliest (though I don't know how likely this list is to change in the span of 3 months), so it's pretty tentative.
1. I doubt what kind of case I get makes all that much difference, and I love the P280 mostly for the sound-dampening features, wide-open layout, and fan filters (my room/house is extremely dust). It's $40 off right now, so should I just jump on the deal right now? I figure worst-case, I could put off spending the money on a PC overhaul and just move my current system into a swanky, high-airflow new case.
2. How are RAM speeds determined? I notice NewEgg sells up to like DDR3 2200, but those are referred to as "overclocked" speeds. I get the general impression that RAM speeds aren't all that important to gaming performance. I do intend to OC my CPU, but does that mean I'll have to OC my RAM as well? Would it be worthwhile investing in RAM with good heat-spreaders, if so?
3. I know that single-solution liquid cooling systems like the H100 and such are really popular (and relatively cheap) now, but will the Hyper 212 suffice for, say, a 3770K with a relatively mild OC -- say, to <4.5Ghz -- assuming overall airflow in the case is good?
EDIT: Oh, forgot to mention: I'll be carrying over my PC Power & Cooling 750W PSU, GTX 560 Ti, optical drive, and HDDs to the new build.
The 280 looks like a nice case. Kind of the Antec version of the Corsair Obsidian 550D I'm getting. (or should that be the other way around?)
4.5 Ghz on an Ivy Bridge chip is going to need something a bit better at dispersing heat than a Hyper 212. Ivy Bridge tends not to OC quite as high as Sandy Bridge, and also runs a smidge hotter doing so, but the extra efficiency per clock cycle and the new features that come with the new chipsets more than make up for that.
1. I just confirmed the purchase of the P280. As it happens, I also noticed there was a "$20 mail-in-rebate" on it... but it turns out it's actually just a $20 NewEgg card... that I could've used on the two extra 120mm fans I bought alongside the case...
2. If I buy DDR3 1600, will it actually run at 1600mhz? I get that the difference between 1333 and 1600 is negligible vis-a-vis gaming performance, but I'd still like to know.
3. Really? The Hyper 212 comes pretty highly recommended, from what I can tell. Guess I'll just have to see what kinda temps I see when I actually get the CPU and OC it.
I should also mention that because I have a couple of large purchases to make using the credit card before January, I'll most likely have enough points by then to get the 3770k without having to spend cash to buy points, to the 3770k will be totally free*.
*Minus the interest I'll have to pay for those purchases, of course. :P
Hamurabi on
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
So how does this look for a preliminary parts list? I won't be clicking the Buy button until January at the earliest (though I don't know how likely this list is to change in the span of 3 months), so it's pretty tentative.
1. I doubt what kind of case I get makes all that much difference, and I love the P280 mostly for the sound-dampening features, wide-open layout, and fan filters (my room/house is extremely dust). It's $40 off right now, so should I just jump on the deal right now? I figure worst-case, I could put off spending the money on a PC overhaul and just move my current system into a swanky, high-airflow new case.
2. How are RAM speeds determined? I notice NewEgg sells up to like DDR3 2200, but those are referred to as "overclocked" speeds. I get the general impression that RAM speeds aren't all that important to gaming performance. I do intend to OC my CPU, but does that mean I'll have to OC my RAM as well? Would it be worthwhile investing in RAM with good heat-spreaders, if so?
3. I know that single-solution liquid cooling systems like the H100 and such are really popular (and relatively cheap) now, but will the Hyper 212 suffice for, say, a 3770K with a relatively mild OC -- say, to <4.5Ghz -- assuming overall airflow in the case is good?
EDIT: Oh, forgot to mention: I'll be carrying over my PC Power & Cooling 750W PSU, GTX 560 Ti, optical drive, and HDDs to the new build.
The 280 looks like a nice case. Kind of the Antec version of the Corsair Obsidian 550D I'm getting. (or should that be the other way around?)
4.5 Ghz on an Ivy Bridge chip is going to need something a bit better at dispersing heat than a Hyper 212. Ivy Bridge tends not to OC quite as high as Sandy Bridge, and also runs a smidge hotter doing so, but the extra efficiency per clock cycle and the new features that come with the new chipsets more than make up for that.
1. I just confirmed the purchase of the P280. As it happens, I also noticed there was a "$20 mail-in-rebate" on it... but it turns out it's actually just a $20 NewEgg card... that I could've used on the two extra 120mm fans I bought alongside the case...
2. If I buy DDR3 1600, will it actually run at 1600mhz? I get that the difference between 1333 and 1600 is negligible vis-a-vis gaming performance, but I'd still like to know.
3. Really? The Hyper 212 comes pretty highly recommended, from what I can tell. Guess I'll just have to see what kinda temps I see when I actually get the CPU and OC it.
Your motherboard should automatically detect the memory's settings and run it at what it is written on it. You can go into the bios and try to tweak a bit more speed out of your RAM if you want, but there's really no point for gaming, especially if you bought quality 1600Mhz RAM with nice tight timings (CL9 or 10).
The 212 is a great air cooler for quietness (to replace the stock cooler at stock speeds) or for a mild to moderate overclock, but for the extra 1000Mhz you want to squeeze out of your processor, I personally would go with a Noctua NH-D14 or one of these:
With DDR 1600 RAM you'll need to set it to that speed in the BIOS. Its really no big deal and honestly I would be surprised if the RAM didnt come with an XMP profile which makes setting the RAM speed really easy.
Seems like a good price off the cuff but I'm not sure. My PC has been randomly shutting down lately and based on monitors and my logs, best I can figure out is it isn't anything with temps, so I'm guessing something might be going bad with my PSU at high loads, so I was thinking of getting something decent, but cheap, to replace it (current one is a 600w running my i5 and dual 460 gtx's)
So is it any good? Is it actually a good price (the $89, not the listed $160 on the page)?
EDIT: Bleh, mail in rebate to bring it that low. Still...
So how does this look for a preliminary parts list? I won't be clicking the Buy button until January at the earliest (though I don't know how likely this list is to change in the span of 3 months), so it's pretty tentative.
1. I doubt what kind of case I get makes all that much difference, and I love the P280 mostly for the sound-dampening features, wide-open layout, and fan filters (my room/house is extremely dust). It's $40 off right now, so should I just jump on the deal right now? I figure worst-case, I could put off spending the money on a PC overhaul and just move my current system into a swanky, high-airflow new case.
2. How are RAM speeds determined? I notice NewEgg sells up to like DDR3 2200, but those are referred to as "overclocked" speeds. I get the general impression that RAM speeds aren't all that important to gaming performance. I do intend to OC my CPU, but does that mean I'll have to OC my RAM as well? Would it be worthwhile investing in RAM with good heat-spreaders, if so?
3. I know that single-solution liquid cooling systems like the H100 and such are really popular (and relatively cheap) now, but will the Hyper 212 suffice for, say, a 3770K with a relatively mild OC -- say, to <4.5Ghz -- assuming overall airflow in the case is good?
EDIT: Oh, forgot to mention: I'll be carrying over my PC Power & Cooling 750W PSU, GTX 560 Ti, optical drive, and HDDs to the new build.
The 280 looks like a nice case. Kind of the Antec version of the Corsair Obsidian 550D I'm getting. (or should that be the other way around?)
4.5 Ghz on an Ivy Bridge chip is going to need something a bit better at dispersing heat than a Hyper 212. Ivy Bridge tends not to OC quite as high as Sandy Bridge, and also runs a smidge hotter doing so, but the extra efficiency per clock cycle and the new features that come with the new chipsets more than make up for that.
1. I just confirmed the purchase of the P280. As it happens, I also noticed there was a "$20 mail-in-rebate" on it... but it turns out it's actually just a $20 NewEgg card... that I could've used on the two extra 120mm fans I bought alongside the case...
2. If I buy DDR3 1600, will it actually run at 1600mhz? I get that the difference between 1333 and 1600 is negligible vis-a-vis gaming performance, but I'd still like to know.
3. Really? The Hyper 212 comes pretty highly recommended, from what I can tell. Guess I'll just have to see what kinda temps I see when I actually get the CPU and OC it.
Your motherboard should automatically detect the memory's settings and run it at what it is written on it. You can go into the bios and try to tweak a bit more speed out of your RAM if you want, but there's really no point for gaming, especially if you bought quality 1600Mhz RAM with nice tight timings (CL9 or 10).
The 212 is a great air cooler for quietness (to replace the stock cooler at stock speeds) or for a mild to moderate overclock, but for the extra 1000Mhz you want to squeeze out of your processor, I personally would go with a Noctua NH-D14 or one of these:
-snip-
I don't know how much space the P280 will have for an H100 in a push-pull. Is a just-push or just-pull config substantially worse than a push-pull for radiators? Is there a better option between just-push and just-pull?
I'm not sure which CPU cooler to go with. I don't intend to overclock, at least nothing major, and the closed loop water coolers make me a little nervous. Should I just go with an air cooler? The choices seem to be the Noctua NH-D14 and the Cooler Master Hyper 212. That said, I'm not leaving the Corsair H100 off the table just yet, but I have read it can be a tad loud. Noise levels are important to me, so which cooler would you guys recommend?
I'd also like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough.
Edit: Oh boy, I looked for some images of that case with those air coolers. The Noctua completely covers up the memory slots, barely giving the sticks clearance. The Cooler Master isn't quite so large. Hmmmm.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
I'm not sure which CPU cooler to go with. I don't intend to overclock, at least nothing major, and the closed loop water coolers make me a little nervous. Should I just go with an air cooler? The choices seem to be the Noctua NH-D14 and the Cooler Master Hyper 212. That said, I'm not leaving the Corsair H100 off the table just yet, but I have read it can be a tad loud. Noise levels are important to me, so which cooler would you guys recommend?
I'd like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough, too.
If you have no plans of OCing, the stock cooler will be just fine. If youre going to only do slight OCs, the Hyper 212 will be fine. Really, the Noctua and the H100 (really, H60+) are only "necessary" when you start OCing to 4.5Ghz plus.
So what's the collective verdict on that? I'd prefer to get the 212 just because it's cheaper ($30 versus $60 for the lowest-end Corsair liquid cooler), but if getting the best bang for my buck (ie. performance and "future-proofing" out of my CPU) means getting an H60 or H100, I'd rather bite the bullet.
(And yes, I understand that I won't see much if any difference in WoW performance, which is what I'll mostly be doing.)
I'm not sure which CPU cooler to go with. I don't intend to overclock, at least nothing major, and the closed loop water coolers make me a little nervous. Should I just go with an air cooler? The choices seem to be the Noctua NH-D14 and the Cooler Master Hyper 212. That said, I'm not leaving the Corsair H100 off the table just yet, but I have read it can be a tad loud. Noise levels are important to me, so which cooler would you guys recommend?
I'd like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough, too.
If you have no plans of OCing, the stock cooler will be just fine. If youre going to only do slight OCs, the Hyper 212 will be fine. Really, the Noctua and the H100 (really, H60+) are only "necessary" when you start OCing to 4.5Ghz plus.
With Turbo Boost the i5-3570K gets up to 3.8GHz, which sounds completely fine to me. I only intend to game with the system, too. If I were to ever try my hand at overclocking, I'd probably only go from 3.4 to 4.0, but by the time that would ever be necessary I'd probably just upgrade my computer with a new CPU.
Based on the size alone, though, I'll probably go with the Hyper 212. That Noctua is effin' HUGE!
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
I'm not sure which CPU cooler to go with. I don't intend to overclock, at least nothing major, and the closed loop water coolers make me a little nervous. Should I just go with an air cooler? The choices seem to be the Noctua NH-D14 and the Cooler Master Hyper 212. That said, I'm not leaving the Corsair H100 off the table just yet, but I have read it can be a tad loud. Noise levels are important to me, so which cooler would you guys recommend?
I'd like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough, too.
If you have no plans of OCing, the stock cooler will be just fine. If youre going to only do slight OCs, the Hyper 212 will be fine. Really, the Noctua and the H100 (really, H60+) are only "necessary" when you start OCing to 4.5Ghz plus.
With Turbo Boost the i5-3570K gets up to 3.8GHz, which sounds completely fine to me. I only intend to game with the system, too. If I were to ever try my hand at overclocking, I'd probably only go from 3.4 to 4.0, but by the time that would ever be necessary I'd probably just upgrade my computer with a new CPU.
Based on the size alone, though, I'll probably go with the Hyper 212. That Noctua is effin' HUGE!
The stock cooler is fine for turbo boost speed, but if you plan (or at least think) you might go over that then the Hyper 212 would be just fine. Plus, the Hyper 212 is going to be a quieter heatsink/fan setup than the stock one and itll keep your stock load temperatures cooler. Get the Evo over the Plus since on Newegg its less than $1 more and it performs slightly better.
I'm not sure which CPU cooler to go with. I don't intend to overclock, at least nothing major, and the closed loop water coolers make me a little nervous. Should I just go with an air cooler? The choices seem to be the Noctua NH-D14 and the Cooler Master Hyper 212. That said, I'm not leaving the Corsair H100 off the table just yet, but I have read it can be a tad loud. Noise levels are important to me, so which cooler would you guys recommend?
I'd like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough, too.
If you have no plans of OCing, the stock cooler will be just fine. If youre going to only do slight OCs, the Hyper 212 will be fine. Really, the Noctua and the H100 (really, H60+) are only "necessary" when you start OCing to 4.5Ghz plus.
With Turbo Boost the i5-3570K gets up to 3.8GHz, which sounds completely fine to me. I only intend to game with the system, too. If I were to ever try my hand at overclocking, I'd probably only go from 3.4 to 4.0, but by the time that would ever be necessary I'd probably just upgrade my computer with a new CPU.
Based on the size alone, though, I'll probably go with the Hyper 212. That Noctua is effin' HUGE!
The stock cooler is fine for turbo boost speed, but if you plan (or at least think) you might go over that then the Hyper 212 would be just fine. Plus, the Hyper 212 is going to be a quieter heatsink/fan setup than the stock one and itll keep your stock load temperatures cooler. Get the Evo over the Plus since on Newegg its less than $1 more and it performs slightly better.
Yeah I'd go with Hyper 212 Evo... That's what I put in my Ivy Bridge build. Haven't actually done any overclocking with it though because I literally have no need... I've not seen anything other than benchmarking software cause any CPU load.
Also who are we kidding... all of these aftermarket coolers are large... The Noctua is just one of the biggest of a massive group.
I'm OCing my 2500K at 4.0 and the Hyper+ is doing a fine job. Haven't seen temps go over 55C.
Actually, this reminds me: what is a "tolerable" load temp for both the CPU and GPU? The Anandtech article on Ivy Bridge OCing implies that 80C under load is an acceptable temp for an OC'd chip... but I would (perhaps unnecessarily) immediately quit whatever app was running if my CPU hit 80C.
I wasn't planning on it because I've never really had any luck with it but someone said that it's super easy to OC an i7-3770k.
I haven't upgraded or built shit i a very long time so I'm a bit out of the loop.
edit: I was looking at the H100 but I don't know if I want to dick around with liquid coolers anymore. Thoughts?
edit 2: Also, I'm super-lazy.
What case are you getting? The H100 requires 2 120mm fan slots right next to each other.
Personally, if I wasnt OCing and I didnt want to mess about with closed loop liquid coolers Id just grab the Hyper 212.
For what its worth, I have the H70 which cools my 2600k to 60c when OCd to 4.5Ghz.
As for case fans, it depends. If youre not OCing, I wouldnt really worry about it (assuming your case comes with at least 1 fan). However, if you are worried about system temps fans are fairly cheap, easy to install and are pretty set-it-and-forget-it.
I wasn't planning on it because I've never really had any luck with it but someone said that it's super easy to OC an i7-3770k.
I haven't upgraded or built shit i a very long time so I'm a bit out of the loop.
edit: I was looking at the H100 but I don't know if I want to dick around with liquid coolers anymore. Thoughts?
edit 2: Also, I'm super-lazy.
What case are you getting? The H100 requires 2 120mm fan slots right next to each other.
Personally, if I wasnt OCing and I didnt want to mess about with closed loop liquid coolers Id just grab the Hyper 212.
For what its worth, I have the H70 which cools my 2600k to 60c when OCd to 4.5Ghz.
As for case fans, it depends. If youre not OCing, I wouldnt really worry about it (assuming your case comes with at least 1 fan). However, if you are worried about system temps fans are fairly cheap, easy to install and are pretty set-it-and-forget-it.
Corsair Carbide 500R. It's sitting at home, haven't really looked at it yet, but according to the Corsair site it supposedly has a spot for the H-series coolers. Duh, I just realized why: Both are Corsair.
Ive started upgrading my now-obsolete desktop and just got a tb HDD in the mail, plugged it in, realized i lost my SATA power cable and decided to just forget about it until i could go pick one up. Now my desktop, which hasn't had a single change except its now missing about half a pound of dust, is giving me Overheating warnings on startup and shutting down.
If I go into my BIOS it reads as waaaaaaay hotter than it obviously is, and im confused because nothing has actually changed...
Ive started upgrading my now-obsolete desktop and just got a tb HDD in the mail, plugged it in, realized i lost my SATA power cable and decided to just forget about it until i could go pick one up. Now my desktop, which hasn't had a single change except its now missing about half a pound of dust, is giving me Overheating warnings on startup and shutting down.
If I go into my BIOS it reads as waaaaaaay hotter than it obviously is, and im confused because nothing has actually changed...
This same shit happened to me yesterday, more or less. I was hitting 95 C in BIOS. Then it magically stopped.
Make sure all your expansion cards are seated properly. My video card wasn't at some point. Not sure if that can cause any heat production or maybe just a misreading but try it I guess.
Alright. Yeah maybe i jolted something or gave her a bit too much of a shake up on the way upstairs.
Yeah, all I was doing was cleaning and moving wires around. Also, my video card isn't screwed in properly. So I think that might have had something to do with my overheating, possibly. Either that or it was the way I was jiggling my cooling system around.
Switch: SW-7690-2320-9238Steam/PSN/Xbox: Drezdar
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kaliyamaLeft to find less-moderated foraRegistered Userregular
Ive started upgrading my now-obsolete desktop and just got a tb HDD in the mail, plugged it in, realized i lost my SATA power cable and decided to just forget about it until i could go pick one up. Now my desktop, which hasn't had a single change except its now missing about half a pound of dust, is giving me Overheating warnings on startup and shutting down.
If I go into my BIOS it reads as waaaaaaay hotter than it obviously is, and im confused because nothing has actually changed...
It's also possible that dust got into a fan somewhere where before it wasn't. Might run compressed air through the CPU and GPU fans.
Anyone mind recommending me some parts for some parts on a budget upgrade build?
I need a PSU, Motherboard, CPU, and Memory. I've got a 60Gb SSD and another HDD to put into the build, and I'm buying a pair of GTX 260's to SLI off a friend of mine, so that feature is necessary.
This was just sort of my first delve into looking into it, is there anything more worthwhile out there? I'm trying to spend less than $300 total on the parts, cheaper the better. Looking to squeeze some more power into the build if I can. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Is it weird that the one thing I am looking forward to the most with my PC upgrade is USB 3.0? USB 1.0 is so fucking slow. (I do a lot of photography and photoediting and copy stuff to and from my netbook a lot - so goddamn slow.)
So I guess this isn't strictly within the purview of a build thread... but how do I make my home PC's HDD(s) totally accessible from the Internet? Is that a VPN?
The only thing stopping me from putting together a 3TB+ Raid-0 home server is the fact that I'd only be able to access the content on it at home.
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Posts
1. I just confirmed the purchase of the P280. As it happens, I also noticed there was a "$20 mail-in-rebate" on it... but it turns out it's actually just a $20 NewEgg card... that I could've used on the two extra 120mm fans I bought alongside the case...
2. If I buy DDR3 1600, will it actually run at 1600mhz? I get that the difference between 1333 and 1600 is negligible vis-a-vis gaming performance, but I'd still like to know.
3. Really? The Hyper 212 comes pretty highly recommended, from what I can tell. Guess I'll just have to see what kinda temps I see when I actually get the CPU and OC it.
*Minus the interest I'll have to pay for those purchases, of course. :P
Your motherboard should automatically detect the memory's settings and run it at what it is written on it. You can go into the bios and try to tweak a bit more speed out of your RAM if you want, but there's really no point for gaming, especially if you bought quality 1600Mhz RAM with nice tight timings (CL9 or 10).
The 212 is a great air cooler for quietness (to replace the stock cooler at stock speeds) or for a mild to moderate overclock, but for the extra 1000Mhz you want to squeeze out of your processor, I personally would go with a Noctua NH-D14 or one of these:
Just got a newegg deal email about this thing:
Antec 750w Modular PSU that is $89 after all sorts of rebates/deals.
Seems like a good price off the cuff but I'm not sure. My PC has been randomly shutting down lately and based on monitors and my logs, best I can figure out is it isn't anything with temps, so I'm guessing something might be going bad with my PSU at high loads, so I was thinking of getting something decent, but cheap, to replace it (current one is a 600w running my i5 and dual 460 gtx's)
So is it any good? Is it actually a good price (the $89, not the listed $160 on the page)?
EDIT: Bleh, mail in rebate to bring it that low. Still...
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
but that is a pretty great price, I'd try it out.
we really should add these 2 articles to the OP, help people understand PSU's and not see them as mysterious black boxes.
Everything you need to know about power supplies
Anatomy of switching power supplies
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MYFODI
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX 12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply - CMPSU-750TXV2
I have a GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB motherboard, Corsair 500R care, and will be getting an i7-3770k this week.
I am going to initially migrate my Radeon HD 5870 to my new PC but will likely upgrade to a GTX 670 soon. Maybe two of them.
Thoughts?
Also: Will my video card serial throttle performance until I get a new one? It's a pretty solid card but games like Saints Row 3 and Crysis chug.
I don't know how much space the P280 will have for an H100 in a push-pull. Is a just-push or just-pull config substantially worse than a push-pull for radiators? Is there a better option between just-push and just-pull?
I'd also like to know if I should replace the Corsair 600T fans with something better of it they'll be good enough.
Edit: Oh boy, I looked for some images of that case with those air coolers. The Noctua completely covers up the memory slots, barely giving the sticks clearance. The Cooler Master isn't quite so large. Hmmmm.
Disagree. I am running an i5 3570k at 4.4-4.5Ghz with a Hyper 212+ in a Cooler Master HAF 922 case.
If you have no plans of OCing, the stock cooler will be just fine. If youre going to only do slight OCs, the Hyper 212 will be fine. Really, the Noctua and the H100 (really, H60+) are only "necessary" when you start OCing to 4.5Ghz plus.
(And yes, I understand that I won't see much if any difference in WoW performance, which is what I'll mostly be doing.)
With Turbo Boost the i5-3570K gets up to 3.8GHz, which sounds completely fine to me. I only intend to game with the system, too. If I were to ever try my hand at overclocking, I'd probably only go from 3.4 to 4.0, but by the time that would ever be necessary I'd probably just upgrade my computer with a new CPU.
Based on the size alone, though, I'll probably go with the Hyper 212. That Noctua is effin' HUGE!
Probably but I'm more interested in compatibility at this point. Not really worried about overkill unless it will literally burn a hole in my floor.
I picked this one because it is on sale right now. But it isn't listed on Nvidia's SLI-certified PSU listing, on their site.
The stock cooler is fine for turbo boost speed, but if you plan (or at least think) you might go over that then the Hyper 212 would be just fine. Plus, the Hyper 212 is going to be a quieter heatsink/fan setup than the stock one and itll keep your stock load temperatures cooler. Get the Evo over the Plus since on Newegg its less than $1 more and it performs slightly better.
Yeah I'd go with Hyper 212 Evo... That's what I put in my Ivy Bridge build. Haven't actually done any overclocking with it though because I literally have no need... I've not seen anything other than benchmarking software cause any CPU load.
Also who are we kidding... all of these aftermarket coolers are large... The Noctua is just one of the biggest of a massive group.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
Actually, this reminds me: what is a "tolerable" load temp for both the CPU and GPU? The Anandtech article on Ivy Bridge OCing implies that 80C under load is an acceptable temp for an OC'd chip... but I would (perhaps unnecessarily) immediately quit whatever app was running if my CPU hit 80C.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
I wasn't planning on it because I've never really had any luck with it but someone said that it's super easy to OC an i7-3770k.
I haven't upgraded or built shit i a very long time so I'm a bit out of the loop.
edit: I was looking at the H100 but I don't know if I want to dick around with liquid coolers anymore. Thoughts?
edit 2: Also, I'm super-lazy.
What case are you getting? The H100 requires 2 120mm fan slots right next to each other.
Personally, if I wasnt OCing and I didnt want to mess about with closed loop liquid coolers Id just grab the Hyper 212.
For what its worth, I have the H70 which cools my 2600k to 60c when OCd to 4.5Ghz.
As for case fans, it depends. If youre not OCing, I wouldnt really worry about it (assuming your case comes with at least 1 fan). However, if you are worried about system temps fans are fairly cheap, easy to install and are pretty set-it-and-forget-it.
Corsair Carbide 500R. It's sitting at home, haven't really looked at it yet, but according to the Corsair site it supposedly has a spot for the H-series coolers. Duh, I just realized why: Both are Corsair.
Is the H70 a pain in the ass to set up?
If I go into my BIOS it reads as waaaaaaay hotter than it obviously is, and im confused because nothing has actually changed...
Kidding.
This same shit happened to me yesterday, more or less. I was hitting 95 C in BIOS. Then it magically stopped.
Make sure all your expansion cards are seated properly. My video card wasn't at some point. Not sure if that can cause any heat production or maybe just a misreading but try it I guess.
Yeah, all I was doing was cleaning and moving wires around. Also, my video card isn't screwed in properly. So I think that might have had something to do with my overheating, possibly. Either that or it was the way I was jiggling my cooling system around.
It's also possible that dust got into a fan somewhere where before it wasn't. Might run compressed air through the CPU and GPU fans.
I need a PSU, Motherboard, CPU, and Memory. I've got a 60Gb SSD and another HDD to put into the build, and I'm buying a pair of GTX 260's to SLI off a friend of mine, so that feature is necessary.
So far I'm looking at the Intel G850 2.9Ghz Dual-Core, ASUS P8H67-M motherboard (honestly I'm not entirely sure on motherboard here, this might not even be compatible with what I need), and G.Skill Ripjaw's 1333 4Gb. No clue on PSU yet.
This was just sort of my first delve into looking into it, is there anything more worthwhile out there? I'm trying to spend less than $300 total on the parts, cheaper the better. Looking to squeeze some more power into the build if I can. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better
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The only thing stopping me from putting together a 3TB+ Raid-0 home server is the fact that I'd only be able to access the content on it at home.
What's the ambient temperature, though? In summer here it often gets to over 40 degrees Celcius (104+ on the stupid scale).