Comes out to $430.92 without OS - would I need a 32-bit or 64-bit version? I'm also a bit iffy on the HDD - this one's only got SATA-II with the SATA-III being $10 more.
Ianator on
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welp i definitely have no idea how to fix this. Literally nothing has changed inside my machine, but it's no longer capable of running for more than 2-3 minutes without shutting down.
Comes out to $430.92 without OS - would I need a 32-bit or 64-bit version? I'm also a bit iffy on the HDD - this one's only got SATA-II with the SATA-III being $10 more.
64 bit, for recognizing all the RAM and any high capacity hard drives.
I can't imagine recommending a 32-bit OS these days.
Vegan on
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Looking up Blu-Ray drives on Newegg for a hypothetical FM2 build. Will MPC or XBMC let me play BDs or will I have to fork out for PowerDVD?
XBMC will play un-encrypted Blu-Rays (or decrypted Blu-Rays if you're comfortable with legal gray areas). MPC I'm not sure about. Your drive may come with a copy of PowerDVD that will do basic Blu-Ray playback.
If the drive doesn't come with software, the better options for playback (ArcSoft TMT or PowerDVD) cost, as do the better options for decryption. You can probably get MakeMKV and VLC/XBMC to work for a lot of discs.
welp i definitely have no idea how to fix this. Literally nothing has changed inside my machine, but it's no longer capable of running for more than 2-3 minutes without shutting down.
Take the CPU heatsink off, clean off the thermal paste, apply new paste, and put it back on. It probably got knocked loose when you moved it.
So now I'm thinking of really going for a video card. I'm looking at the EVGA 670 FTW+ (the 4gb version). Thoughts?
If you're running one monitor, you won't see any benefit with a 4GB card over a 2GB card. Even in tests where they used multiple monitors, performance was almost always equal.
However, a scant few games do use a ton of a VRAM. A modded version of Skyrim can use up to 3GB, for example. I might just go with the 4GB version myself just because it's only like 40 bucks more, and I can think of it as future proofing.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
Yeah, the next card I grab is probably going to have 4GBs of VRAM just because I seem to be at or near my VRAM cap with my GTX 570 (1.25GBs) since I run dual monitors (even though I only game on one). Im getting a little sick of disabling my second monitor every time I play Skyrim/BF3/Batman.
My card is now throwing 3 red leds at me, which, from googling, can either mean it is fucked, my power supply is done, or i need a new MOBO entirely. Or it simply isn't plugged in. I've verified it is not the last solution. It hasn't been unplugged in a long, long time, and i still double checked just in case.
So now I'm thinking of really going for a video card. I'm looking at the EVGA 670 FTW+ (the 4gb version). Thoughts?
If you're running one monitor, you won't see any benefit with a 4GB card over a 2GB card. Even in tests where they used multiple monitors, performance was almost always equal.
However, a scant few games do use a ton of a VRAM. A modded version of Skyrim can use up to 3GB, for example. I might just go with the 4GB version myself just because it's only like 40 bucks more, and I can think of it as future proofing.
That's not the only difference, either. Apparently the FTW+ is based on the 680 spec or something. I heard the ASUS DCII Top is better but I can't seem to find one. Not with Prime shipping anyway.
I spent two hours once trying to figure out why the PC I had just built for someone wouldn't power on at all. After panicking for a bit I realized it wasn't plugged in.
So now I'm thinking of really going for a video card. I'm looking at the EVGA 670 FTW+ (the 4gb version). Thoughts?
If you're running one monitor, you won't see any benefit with a 4GB card over a 2GB card. Even in tests where they used multiple monitors, performance was almost always equal.
However, a scant few games do use a ton of a VRAM. A modded version of Skyrim can use up to 3GB, for example. I might just go with the 4GB version myself just because it's only like 40 bucks more, and I can think of it as future proofing.
That's not the only difference, either. Apparently the FTW+ is based on the 680 spec or something. I heard the ASUS DCII Top is better but I can't seem to find one. Not with Prime shipping anyway.
I might have to keep an eye on that one for when I can order my new parts.
I'm getting excited, but I'm also nervous. I haven't put together a PC in quite awhile. It's not a difficult process, but when something is wrong and you can't figure out what it is, it becomes a frustrating one. I've had that happen more than once.
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
All 670s are based on the same GPU as the 680 (GK104). The differences between the cards come down to clockspeed and disabled rendering and shader units. Both cards have the same memory bus width and VRAM options (2 or 4 GB)
I spent two hours once trying to figure out why the PC I had just built for someone wouldn't power on at all. After panicking for a bit I realized it wasn't plugged in.
i would be heartbroken if this happened to me. oh man
I spent two hours once trying to figure out why the PC I had just built for someone wouldn't power on at all. After panicking for a bit I realized it wasn't plugged in.
either not plugged in or i forgot to flip the switch on the PSU to on gets me at least half the builds i do
and every time i start to panic for just a moment before realizing i haven't checked the obvious failures
I connected the power button headers wrong, so the power button didn't work when I first tried to turn it on.
Thankfully the mobo had a little power button so I was able to quickly realize what the problem was before I started ripping it all apart.
Just an fyi guys, Best Buy can now price match Newegg and Amazon.com so if you need something in a hurry, you can just roll on up ins and pick it up. The bigger Best Buys actually have some fairly decent equipment, albeit a slim selection. You might have to go with an eVGA graphics card instead of something else, but still.
Is it pretty standard practice to include a little molded plastic bit into which you can plug in all your front LED headers, and then put that plastic bit directly onto the LED pins? I remember one of my old boards did that, and it was an incredibly convenient detail that saved me no small amount of headache when trying to line up LED headers in the awkward positions my old, mid-size-or-smaller cases afforded me.
This is a rather dumb question
I tried to play a Blu Ray in my computer's blu ray drive but it wants a codec or something to do a playback? Or aka that's what it says it wants
I got rather confused as I went to the window's site and it listed nothing for this? I then looked around online for a codec and saw a lot of fishy sites
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
This is a rather dumb question
I tried to play a Blu Ray in my computer's blu ray drive but it wants a codec or something to do a playback? Or aka that's what it says it wants
I got rather confused as I went to the window's site and it listed nothing for this? I then looked around online for a codec and saw a lot of fishy sites
Windows does not come with the necessary codec (basically a key that encodes and/or decodes data) to play Blu-Ray discs. Your drive may have come with basic software that you can use, otherwise you'll need to buy compatible software (basically either PowerDVD or Arcsoft Total Media Theater) or software that will decrypt the discs (technically illegal under the DMCA).
The way the licensing of Blu-Ray has been handled essentially screws over users who want to use their PCs to view actual Blu-Ray discs, particularly given that the compatible software isn't very good, and users who simply decrypt the disc get to use better players and can do more with their media (rip a backup copy to an HDD, for example).
And all of that is why I don't generally recommend Blu-Ray drives.
I know I guessed since it was the same price for either a DVD or Blu ray drive when I bought it so I thought in a few years they would be using blu rays
I will check the box again . I will admit it is rather confusing when Windows hints you may be able to work around this in troubleshooting or some other program
Is there any reason I'd want more than 8GB of RAM? I think the subject of RAM drives came up awhile ago in the thread, but I don't know how useful that would be if you're running your OS off an SSD. Could I use the RAM drive as an HDD cache for my storage drives?
Do you do any high-level computing that would benefit from additional ram, such as large number crunching, large frame rendering, run multiple ram-hungry applications at the same time, or have multiple "always-on" virtual machines that will steal a dedicated chunk of the physical memory?
If not, then you probably don't need more than 8GB.
RAM is so cheap, for me it's basically 'how much can I cram in this board' as opposed to 'how much should I get'.
I was planning on putting 64 gigs in a socket 2011 build...
this. My firefox instance is like 1.5gb pretty much constantly, I'll often have photoshop, firefox, and a game open, doing photoshopping between rounds. Depending on what I've got loaded I could easily break into swapping territory if I had 8gb. My 16gb of ram only cost me like $30 more than 8 would have cost me. That's like, not eating fast food twice.
Okay so I've finalized my build spec. Have half the parts, should have CPU and Video Card by Saturday. I am excited.
Components:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UDH5-WB
- CPU: i7-3770k
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x8 DDR3 1600 CL10
- Video Card: EVGA GTX 670 FTW+
- Case: Corsair Carbide Series 500R (Black)
- PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2
- CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
So I guess my final questions:
a) If I do some minimal CPU and GPU overclocking, will that be enough cooling?
b) Is the stock thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 EVO sufficient?
c) Am I missing anything? I don't need or want an optical drive and I have an external one (Xbox 360 HD-DVD) that I can plug in if I really need it. Also, I have a new 3.0 TB SATA 3.0 HDD I will be migrating over to the new PC so I'm covered there.
d) Regardimg the HDD... I know the cleanest thing to do would be to reinstall Windows but that will be a major hassle at this point. Is it absolutely necessary? Wait - if I do resin tall without doing a full format first, it will move my old Windows stuff into Windows.old, right? This is Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit.
e) I have an LCD monitor and an HDTV in my bedroom and I have both connected to my current video card with an HDMI switch. The problem is, they are far away from each other. I use the HDTV for gaming and the LCD for productivity and photoshop/art editing stuff. The case would go near the LCD and my seat would be a few meters from the case when I use the HDTV.
Is that too far for a witless mouse? I was thinking about the R.A.T. 9. I usually avoid wireless but te current setup (wired with USB extension cables) is unwieldy and annoying. Thoughts?
f) With this setup should I be able to play pretty much anything at max settings?
Concerning a. and b. you're good to go.
I used the included paste with my 212+ and it's been absolutely fine. I have my 2500K OC'd to 4.0GHz and the cooling is pretty damn sufficient.
Re: optical drive, I use mine so rarely that once it took me several months to realize I never plugged in the power cable into it last time I was rummaging around in my PC. Literally the only time I use it is when I'm reinstalling Windows and all the drivers/software I have. So your external one sound perfect, actually.
I think I've also mostly settled on my build. There's still plenty of time to change my mind, but this is the general ballpark of what I'm looking at:
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
CPU: i5-3570K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (Any opinions on G.Skill's new Trident X series?)
GPU: EVGA GeForce 670 FTW+ 4GB
Case: Corsair 600T White (Or should I go for something larger?)
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 SSD
PSU: Corsair HX750
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
Currently choosing parts to build a computer for my parents before I go back to Canada. Replacing an old Athlon 64bit 2-core w/2GB of RAM that's on it's way out. The general idea is the computer is good enough, but not a super power monster like the one I built a couple months ago, and will last for a decent amount of time even with no upgrades (they generally have bought a computer and used it for 6 years or so)
However, I'm still always a slight bit paranoid that I chose incompatible parts. Mostly wondering if the PSU is enough.
PSU is definitely enough. I notice that case doesn't seem to have any cable management cut outs, and you'll really want that to keep your PC nice and tidy and to minimize heat.
So maybe get something like this or this.
What're they gonna be doing with that PC? Specs seem like they're for a gaming PC. If cost is a non-issue, then I guess that's fine, but if it is, you could probably cut the price in half if all they're doing is browsing the Web and watching YouTube videos.
There will be people gaming on it, but they're super hardcore about it. WoW, Minecraft, TF2, plus any recent titles and some upcoming ones they want to play, but had to skip because of this computer (2 core Athlon 4200+ with a Geforce 7800 GT). Basically I want it to not break a sweat on WoW while playing new games and then also stay relevant for a while even with no upgrades.
This is versus the one I built for myself a month or two ago, which was 16GB of RAM, an SSD, and a GTX 670 etc and cost a bit over 1200$. If they were definitely just gonna youtube/browse then I'd be comfortable dropping it's specs way down. And since I'm considering it a combination Christmas present for the entire family, I do view it as being a bit less concerned about the cost.
tl;dr kinda beefy, long relevance, but not bleeding edge so that I don't have to keep it alive all the time, because i'll be living in another country for a while.
There will be people gaming on it, but they're super hardcore about it. WoW, Minecraft, TF2, plus any recent titles and some upcoming ones they want to play, but had to skip because of this computer (2 core Athlon 4200+ with a Geforce 7800 GT). Basically I want it to not break a sweat on WoW while playing new games and then also stay relevant for a while even with no upgrades.
This is versus the one I built for myself a month or two ago, which was 16GB of RAM, an SSD, and a GTX 670 etc and cost a bit over 1200$. If they were definitely just gonna youtube/browse then I'd be comfortable dropping it's specs way down. And since I'm considering it a combination Christmas present for the entire family, I do view it as being a bit less concerned about the cost.
tl;dr kinda beefy, long relevance, but not bleeding edge so that I don't have to keep it alive all the time, because i'll be living in another country for a while.
I feel like youd get a better computer if you went with something like: i5 3470 - $199 AsRock Z77 Extreme3 - $119 AMD 6850 - $139 ($125 after MIR)
You could definitely get away with a Sandy Bridge processor or even an i3 and get a better video card.
Also, dont get a Biostar anything. Theyre terrible. God awful. Im pretty sure they raped my CMOS.
Posts
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Ouch.
Case: Silverstone MILO ML03B
CPU: AMD A4-5300 Trinity APU
Mobo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35
RAM: G-SKILL Value 8GB (2x 4GB)
PSU: Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D
HDD/SSD : Seagate Momentus XT 500GB Hybrid
Optical: ASUS Blu-ray Drive
Wi-Fi: ASUS PCE-N10
Comes out to $430.92 without OS - would I need a 32-bit or 64-bit version? I'm also a bit iffy on the HDD - this one's only got SATA-II with the SATA-III being $10 more.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
64 bit, for recognizing all the RAM and any high capacity hard drives.
I can't imagine recommending a 32-bit OS these days.
XBMC will play un-encrypted Blu-Rays (or decrypted Blu-Rays if you're comfortable with legal gray areas). MPC I'm not sure about. Your drive may come with a copy of PowerDVD that will do basic Blu-Ray playback.
If the drive doesn't come with software, the better options for playback (ArcSoft TMT or PowerDVD) cost, as do the better options for decryption. You can probably get MakeMKV and VLC/XBMC to work for a lot of discs.
Battle.net
Take the CPU heatsink off, clean off the thermal paste, apply new paste, and put it back on. It probably got knocked loose when you moved it.
If you're running one monitor, you won't see any benefit with a 4GB card over a 2GB card. Even in tests where they used multiple monitors, performance was almost always equal.
However, a scant few games do use a ton of a VRAM. A modded version of Skyrim can use up to 3GB, for example. I might just go with the 4GB version myself just because it's only like 40 bucks more, and I can think of it as future proofing.
My card is now throwing 3 red leds at me, which, from googling, can either mean it is fucked, my power supply is done, or i need a new MOBO entirely. Or it simply isn't plugged in. I've verified it is not the last solution. It hasn't been unplugged in a long, long time, and i still double checked just in case.
That's not the only difference, either. Apparently the FTW+ is based on the 680 spec or something. I heard the ASUS DCII Top is better but I can't seem to find one. Not with Prime shipping anyway.
This one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130824&name=Desktop-Graphics-Cards
I might have to keep an eye on that one for when I can order my new parts.
I'm getting excited, but I'm also nervous. I haven't put together a PC in quite awhile. It's not a difficult process, but when something is wrong and you can't figure out what it is, it becomes a frustrating one. I've had that happen more than once.
Battle.net
i would be heartbroken if this happened to me. oh man
either not plugged in or i forgot to flip the switch on the PSU to on gets me at least half the builds i do
and every time i start to panic for just a moment before realizing i haven't checked the obvious failures
Thankfully the mobo had a little power button so I was able to quickly realize what the problem was before I started ripping it all apart.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
I tried to play a Blu Ray in my computer's blu ray drive but it wants a codec or something to do a playback? Or aka that's what it says it wants
I got rather confused as I went to the window's site and it listed nothing for this? I then looked around online for a codec and saw a lot of fishy sites
Windows does not come with the necessary codec (basically a key that encodes and/or decodes data) to play Blu-Ray discs. Your drive may have come with basic software that you can use, otherwise you'll need to buy compatible software (basically either PowerDVD or Arcsoft Total Media Theater) or software that will decrypt the discs (technically illegal under the DMCA).
The way the licensing of Blu-Ray has been handled essentially screws over users who want to use their PCs to view actual Blu-Ray discs, particularly given that the compatible software isn't very good, and users who simply decrypt the disc get to use better players and can do more with their media (rip a backup copy to an HDD, for example).
And all of that is why I don't generally recommend Blu-Ray drives.
Battle.net
I will check the box again . I will admit it is rather confusing when Windows hints you may be able to work around this in troubleshooting or some other program
If not, then you probably don't need more than 8GB.
That's probably a good 4GB on its own...
Right?
I was planning on putting 64 gigs in a socket 2011 build...
this. My firefox instance is like 1.5gb pretty much constantly, I'll often have photoshop, firefox, and a game open, doing photoshopping between rounds. Depending on what I've got loaded I could easily break into swapping territory if I had 8gb. My 16gb of ram only cost me like $30 more than 8 would have cost me. That's like, not eating fast food twice.
Components:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UDH5-WB
- CPU: i7-3770k
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x8 DDR3 1600 CL10
- Video Card: EVGA GTX 670 FTW+
- Case: Corsair Carbide Series 500R (Black)
- PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2
- CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
So I guess my final questions:
a) If I do some minimal CPU and GPU overclocking, will that be enough cooling?
b) Is the stock thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 EVO sufficient?
c) Am I missing anything? I don't need or want an optical drive and I have an external one (Xbox 360 HD-DVD) that I can plug in if I really need it. Also, I have a new 3.0 TB SATA 3.0 HDD I will be migrating over to the new PC so I'm covered there.
d) Regardimg the HDD... I know the cleanest thing to do would be to reinstall Windows but that will be a major hassle at this point. Is it absolutely necessary? Wait - if I do resin tall without doing a full format first, it will move my old Windows stuff into Windows.old, right? This is Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit.
e) I have an LCD monitor and an HDTV in my bedroom and I have both connected to my current video card with an HDMI switch. The problem is, they are far away from each other. I use the HDTV for gaming and the LCD for productivity and photoshop/art editing stuff. The case would go near the LCD and my seat would be a few meters from the case when I use the HDTV.
Is that too far for a witless mouse? I was thinking about the R.A.T. 9. I usually avoid wireless but te current setup (wired with USB extension cables) is unwieldy and annoying. Thoughts?
f) With this setup should I be able to play pretty much anything at max settings?
I used the included paste with my 212+ and it's been absolutely fine. I have my 2500K OC'd to 4.0GHz and the cooling is pretty damn sufficient.
Re: optical drive, I use mine so rarely that once it took me several months to realize I never plugged in the power cable into it last time I was rummaging around in my PC. Literally the only time I use it is when I'm reinstalling Windows and all the drivers/software I have. So your external one sound perfect, actually.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
CPU: i5-3570K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (Any opinions on G.Skill's new Trident X series?)
GPU: EVGA GeForce 670 FTW+ 4GB
Case: Corsair 600T White (Or should I go for something larger?)
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 SSD
PSU: Corsair HX750
However, I'm still always a slight bit paranoid that I chose incompatible parts. Mostly wondering if the PSU is enough.
mobo - 130$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138341
CPU (8c bulldozer) - 190$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103960
8GB RAM - 40$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104173
nVidia GTX 550 Ti 2GB - 150$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130652
PSU (500w) - 50$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153165
Case - 55$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
hdd/dvd/os not included since those are the same price everywhere.
So maybe get something like this or this.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
This is versus the one I built for myself a month or two ago, which was 16GB of RAM, an SSD, and a GTX 670 etc and cost a bit over 1200$. If they were definitely just gonna youtube/browse then I'd be comfortable dropping it's specs way down. And since I'm considering it a combination Christmas present for the entire family, I do view it as being a bit less concerned about the cost.
tl;dr kinda beefy, long relevance, but not bleeding edge so that I don't have to keep it alive all the time, because i'll be living in another country for a while.
I feel like youd get a better computer if you went with something like:
i5 3470 - $199
AsRock Z77 Extreme3 - $119
AMD 6850 - $139 ($125 after MIR)
You could definitely get away with a Sandy Bridge processor or even an i3 and get a better video card.
Also, dont get a Biostar anything. Theyre terrible. God awful. Im pretty sure they raped my CMOS.