Okay so I've finalized my build spec. Have half the parts, should have CPU and Video Card by Saturday. I am excited.
Components:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UDH5-WB
- CPU: i7-3770k
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x8 DDR3 1600 CL10
- Video Card: EVGA GTX 670 FTW+
- Case: Corsair Carbide Series 500R (Black)
- PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2
- CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
So I guess my final questions:
a) If I do some minimal CPU and GPU overclocking, will that be enough cooling?
b) Is the stock thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 EVO sufficient?
c) Am I missing anything? I don't need or want an optical drive and I have an external one (Xbox 360 HD-DVD) that I can plug in if I really need it. Also, I have a new 3.0 TB SATA 3.0 HDD I will be migrating over to the new PC so I'm covered there.
d) Regardimg the HDD... I know the cleanest thing to do would be to reinstall Windows but that will be a major hassle at this point. Is it absolutely necessary? Wait - if I do resin tall without doing a full format first, it will move my old Windows stuff into Windows.old, right? This is Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit.
e) I have an LCD monitor and an HDTV in my bedroom and I have both connected to my current video card with an HDMI switch. The problem is, they are far away from each other. I use the HDTV for gaming and the LCD for productivity and photoshop/art editing stuff. The case would go near the LCD and my seat would be a few meters from the case when I use the HDTV.
Is that too far for a witless mouse? I was thinking about the R.A.T. 9. I usually avoid wireless but te current setup (wired with USB extension cables) is unwieldy and annoying. Thoughts?
f) With this setup should I be able to play pretty much anything at max settings?
concerning e) I have a similar setup, LCD/workstation in the corner, on the opposite wall and center of the room is my TV, straight shot from my coffee table to my desktop is probably 2-2.5m. YMMV but my mamba 2012 seems to operate fine from the coffee table for controlling my media players. I don't have a wireless keyboard so I'm not 100% certain that it has a strong enough signal for continuous use in action games... Maybe tonight I'll plug in a USB extension, haul my keyboard over to the coffee table and play some MWO with it to verify.
Okay so I've finalized my build spec. Have half the parts, should have CPU and Video Card by Saturday. I am excited.
Components:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UDH5-WB
- CPU: i7-3770k
- Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x8 DDR3 1600 CL10
- Video Card: EVGA GTX 670 FTW+
- Case: Corsair Carbide Series 500R (Black)
- PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2
- CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
So I guess my final questions:
a) If I do some minimal CPU and GPU overclocking, will that be enough cooling?
b) Is the stock thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 EVO sufficient?
c) Am I missing anything? I don't need or want an optical drive and I have an external one (Xbox 360 HD-DVD) that I can plug in if I really need it. Also, I have a new 3.0 TB SATA 3.0 HDD I will be migrating over to the new PC so I'm covered there.
d) Regardimg the HDD... I know the cleanest thing to do would be to reinstall Windows but that will be a major hassle at this point. Is it absolutely necessary? Wait - if I do resin tall without doing a full format first, it will move my old Windows stuff into Windows.old, right? This is Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit.
e) I have an LCD monitor and an HDTV in my bedroom and I have both connected to my current video card with an HDMI switch. The problem is, they are far away from each other. I use the HDTV for gaming and the LCD for productivity and photoshop/art editing stuff. The case would go near the LCD and my seat would be a few meters from the case when I use the HDTV.
Is that too far for a witless mouse? I was thinking about the R.A.T. 9. I usually avoid wireless but te current setup (wired with USB extension cables) is unwieldy and annoying. Thoughts?
f) With this setup should I be able to play pretty much anything at max settings?
concerning e) I have a similar setup, LCD/workstation in the corner, on the opposite wall and center of the room is my TV, straight shot from my coffee table to my desktop is probably 2-2.5m. YMMV but my mamba 2012 seems to operate fine from the coffee table for controlling my media players. I don't have a wireless keyboard so I'm not 100% certain that it has a strong enough signal for continuous use in action games... Maybe tonight I'll plug in a USB extension, haul my keyboard over to the coffee table and play some MWO with it to verify.
Cool, thanks.
Switch: SW-7690-2320-9238Steam/PSN/Xbox: Drezdar
0
Just_Bri_ThanksSeething with ragefrom a handbasket.Registered User, ClubPAregular
edited October 2012
So the new hardware sees my ss drive in the machine while in the bios, but it refuses to boot from it. Windows setup doesn't see the drive.
Is there a setting somewhere I should be changing?
Edit: it doesn't see the drive in the bios, that was my optical drive and I was mistaking the serial.
Just_Bri_Thanks on
...and when you are done with that; take a folding
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
Just_Bri_ThanksSeething with ragefrom a handbasket.Registered User, ClubPAregular
Let me check that.
...and when you are done with that; take a folding
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
0
Just_Bri_ThanksSeething with ragefrom a handbasket.Registered User, ClubPAregular
OK, I got it to boot. Grub comes up and Linux works fine, but selecting Windows in grub results in a reset. Still trying to boot to CD-rom so I can try to repair it or something.
...and when you are done with that; take a folding
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
There will be people gaming on it, but they're super hardcore about it. WoW, Minecraft, TF2, plus any recent titles and some upcoming ones they want to play, but had to skip because of this computer (2 core Athlon 4200+ with a Geforce 7800 GT). Basically I want it to not break a sweat on WoW while playing new games and then also stay relevant for a while even with no upgrades.
This is versus the one I built for myself a month or two ago, which was 16GB of RAM, an SSD, and a GTX 670 etc and cost a bit over 1200$. If they were definitely just gonna youtube/browse then I'd be comfortable dropping it's specs way down. And since I'm considering it a combination Christmas present for the entire family, I do view it as being a bit less concerned about the cost.
tl;dr kinda beefy, long relevance, but not bleeding edge so that I don't have to keep it alive all the time, because i'll be living in another country for a while.
I feel like youd get a better computer if you went with something like: i5 3470 - $199 AsRock Z77 Extreme3 - $119 AMD 6850 - $139 ($125 after MIR)
You could definitely get away with a Sandy Bridge processor or even an i3 and get a better video card.
Also, dont get a Biostar anything. Theyre terrible. God awful. Im pretty sure they raped my CMOS.
I looked at your suggestions, although I have to stick with the AMD based choices I made. However, we had to switch to Amazon for the parts (due to Newegg's billing) so I switched the mobo to a Gigabyte one Amazon carried at about the same price so it'd qualify for Prime.
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
edited October 2012
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
So I guess it's a good thing I continued to poke around the Citi Rewards website summore: apparently they have a combo deal with the 3570k and a Z77 Gigabyte board for not much more points than I have now. I'll probably have enough points accrued to get it once I get back to the States in January, in fact. I will have gotten almost a whole new PC for ~$280.
EDIT: Seems to be this particular $190 Gigabyte board.
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
I'm thinking back to last time I did this. Doesn't it dump Program Files as well? My Steam directory is in the default location so it might preserve it.
Also, couldn't I just dump whatever I want to keep in My Documents, if it keeps that DIR?
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
I'm thinking back to last time I did this. Doesn't it dump Program Files as well? My Steam directory is in the default location so it might preserve it.
Also, couldn't I just dump whatever I want to keep in My Documents, if it keeps that DIR?
I went and checked again, apparently it DOES copy Program Files
Specifically:
Documents and Settings
Program Files
Windows directory
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
go out, but a $100 external backup drive that automagically backs up the entire internal hd. run it overnight.
if you do it by hand, i guarantee you that you will miss something.
Out of curiosity: why AMD? There's virtually nothing compelling about Bulldozer from a value or performance perspective, it even uses more power than most Intel chips.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
Well, it's done. I pulled the trigger on the GTX670 FTW+ and the i7-3770k, the last two parts I needed. They will arrive tomorrow.
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
go out, but a $100 external backup drive that automagically backs up the entire internal hd. run it overnight.
if you do it by hand, i guarantee you that you will miss something.
I actually just reinstalled Windows three weeks ago, on a brand new HDD. I don't really have much except 1TB of Steam that I don't want to redownload.
So I have a $110 128GB M4 in my current parts list, but I'm wondering if being able to put more games (and some important applications) plus room for potential 1080p video editing is worth the extra $50-100 for a 256GB. I could skimp and spend just ~$60 more for a Kingston or Samsung. I notice the 256GB M4 is up on NewEgg for $200 atm -- $187 on Amazon because of their sale.
Is an M4 really good enough to merit a $40 premium over the competition? I notice the quoted transfer rates seem substantially higher than the competitors, but does it deliver that kind of performance real-world?
Ordered an SSD for that computer with the rest of the stuff yesterday. Go to look at it today to see if I'd have to request a refund for the difference from Amazon.. the SSD went up by 10$ since last night.
So make sure you're comparing their prices against the other guys.
@Dashui BTW, if you purchase the GTX670 FTW+ by 10/30, you are eligible for a $20 mail in rebate.
Oh no, I won't be able to do it until sometime next month or so. I'm just doing a lot of research and planning my build because it's been so long since I've done this. My last few machines were pre-built, so I'm a little nervous and excited at the same time. The last two machines I did put together had parts arrive DOA from the store, which made everyone in the house want to leave and cautious about this new machine because I, uh, flew into a bit of a rage trying to troubleshoot what was wrong.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
So I have a $110 128GB M4 in my current parts list, but I'm wondering if being able to put more games (and some important applications) plus room for potential 1080p video editing is worth the extra $50-100 for a 256GB. I could skimp and spend just ~$60 more for a Kingston or Samsung. I notice the 256GB M4 is up on NewEgg for $200 atm -- $187 on Amazon because of their sale.
Is an M4 really good enough to merit a $40 premium over the competition? I notice the quoted transfer rates seem substantially higher than the competitors, but does it deliver that kind of performance real-world?
I'm kinda having difficulty parsing this post, but a Samsung 830 256GB is a good choice over an m4 256GB if it's cheaper. The differences in speed, if any, aren't really going to be noticeable in day to day work. I love the m4s and own two myself but a few people I know (including people in this thread) really like the 830s
Just_Bri_ThanksSeething with ragefrom a handbasket.Registered User, ClubPAregular
Looks like I am getting this thing up to snuff right about the time I go out of town for the weekend. :P
I love putting Windows machines together. *sigh*
...and when you are done with that; take a folding
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The Samsung 830 series SSDs use a different type of memory chip. It's supposedly better? I bought mine because of their speed and reliability reputation.
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The Samsung 830 series SSDs use a different type of memory chip. It's supposedly better? I bought mine because of their speed and reliability reputation.
It uses a different controller, and Samsung makes their own (quite excellent) NAND, but the fundamental design of the memory isn't really different.
I'm fairly certain that the Crucial drives use Micron NAND.
Anyone mind recommending me some parts for some parts on a budget upgrade build?
I need a PSU, Motherboard, CPU, and Memory. I've got a 60Gb SSD and another HDD to put into the build, and I'm buying a pair of GTX 260's to SLI off a friend of mine, so that feature is necessary.
This was just sort of my first delve into looking into it, is there anything more worthwhile out there? I'm trying to spend less than $300 total on the parts, cheaper the better. Looking to squeeze some more power into the build if I can. Any help is greatly appreciated.
edit: Damn, just noticed the motherboard is discontinued on there now. Any other recommendations for a cheap SLI compatible motherboard?
Anyone mind recommending me some parts for some parts on a budget upgrade build?
I need a PSU, Motherboard, CPU, and Memory. I've got a 60Gb SSD and another HDD to put into the build, and I'm buying a pair of GTX 260's to SLI off a friend of mine, so that feature is necessary.
This was just sort of my first delve into looking into it, is there anything more worthwhile out there? I'm trying to spend less than $300 total on the parts, cheaper the better. Looking to squeeze some more power into the build if I can. Any help is greatly appreciated.
edit: Damn, just noticed the motherboard is discontinued on there now. Any other recommendations for a cheap SLI compatible motherboard?
I'm about a half hour from being home from work, I'll drop a recommendation when I get to my PC.
Anyone mind recommending me some parts for some parts on a budget upgrade build?
I need a PSU, Motherboard, CPU, and Memory. I've got a 60Gb SSD and another HDD to put into the build, and I'm buying a pair of GTX 260's to SLI off a friend of mine, so that feature is necessary.
This was just sort of my first delve into looking into it, is there anything more worthwhile out there? I'm trying to spend less than $300 total on the parts, cheaper the better. Looking to squeeze some more power into the build if I can. Any help is greatly appreciated.
edit: Damn, just noticed the motherboard is discontinued on there now. Any other recommendations for a cheap SLI compatible motherboard?
Are you looking for a MicroATX-sized mobo? Here is a list of SLI-capable mobo in that form. That CPU is fine for gaming, and adding a ~$100 mobo plus ram leaves a lot of room in your budget!
proyebat on
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
edited October 2012
This would probably be my recommendation. It's not particularly impressive, but it'll work for a serious budget build. You might consider using the G2100 Pentium that just came out.
So today is the day. I brought my case and mobo manuals with me to work so I can familiarize myself with them before I get home tonight. As long as UPS doesn't fuck up my shipment of t video card and CPU, daddy's finally gonna play Crysis this weekend.
Because I haven't installed a mobo in so long: do I need to do anything other than just place it down onto the separator pins and just screw it in? Is there a washer that goes on before the screws go into the pins?
Newegg is starting to really irritate me with their near-constant reminders to "LOCK IN" my purchase of Windows 8. I do not want this shit. I can get it legitimately for free and still do not want it.
Because I haven't installed a mobo in so long: do I need to do anything other than just place it down onto the separator pins and just screw it in? Is there a washer that goes on before the screws go into the pins?
I actually have the same question. It's been like five or six years for me.
I've always put in the RAM and CPU/Cooler before putting the mobo in the case to avoid any sort of bending or pushing down on it while it's up on the separators.
Posts
concerning e) I have a similar setup, LCD/workstation in the corner, on the opposite wall and center of the room is my TV, straight shot from my coffee table to my desktop is probably 2-2.5m. YMMV but my mamba 2012 seems to operate fine from the coffee table for controlling my media players. I don't have a wireless keyboard so I'm not 100% certain that it has a strong enough signal for continuous use in action games... Maybe tonight I'll plug in a USB extension, haul my keyboard over to the coffee table and play some MWO with it to verify.
Cool, thanks.
Is there a setting somewhere I should be changing?
Edit: it doesn't see the drive in the bios, that was my optical drive and I was mistaking the serial.
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
I looked at your suggestions, although I have to stick with the AMD based choices I made. However, we had to switch to Amazon for the parts (due to Newegg's billing) so I switched the mobo to a Gigabyte one Amazon carried at about the same price so it'd qualify for Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-990FXA-UD3-990FX-SATA-Motherboard/dp/B0055QYKQO/ref=sr_1_2?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1350520632&sr=1-2&keywords=AMD
Battle.net
Now my final dilemma is whether or not I go out drinking tomorrow night, or I go straight home and build the fuck out of my new computer.
Actually, one other thing: Does Windows 7 dump EVERYTHING into Windows.old on a reinstall, or not? I want to make sure I don't lose my Steam directory and backing it up will be a real hassle at this point.
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better
bit.ly/2XQM1ke
EDIT: Seems to be this particular $190 Gigabyte board.
I've just historically had better experience with them. None of my AMD machines have failed, while I've had to fix/replace Intel setups at least 4 times over the past five years. Much the same reason I go with nVidia over ATI/AMD for graphics cards. I know that's a bit of luck, but it works for me.
I'll probably do Intel for my next personal build though.
I think it just dumps My Documents and the Windows files. I can't remember if it actually just copies the drive contents. An easier way (if you're not up for burning the Steam images or transferring them to another HDD/computer) would be to partition your drive, put the Steam directory in that partition, install windows, then copy the steam files back out of the partition and then merge the partitions again.
I'm thinking back to last time I did this. Doesn't it dump Program Files as well? My Steam directory is in the default location so it might preserve it.
Also, couldn't I just dump whatever I want to keep in My Documents, if it keeps that DIR?
I went and checked again, apparently it DOES copy Program Files
Specifically:
Documents and Settings
Program Files
Windows directory
So it -should- copy your Steam stuff.
You should. Which one are you looking at?
Battle.net
go out, but a $100 external backup drive that automagically backs up the entire internal hd. run it overnight.
if you do it by hand, i guarantee you that you will miss something.
Joe's Stream.
The 830 series? It's about $160 I think. Thoughts?
edit: This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0077CR66A
I know there is a more expensive MZ model. What's the difference?
I actually just reinstalled Windows three weeks ago, on a brand new HDD. I don't really have much except 1TB of Steam that I don't want to redownload.
Is an M4 really good enough to merit a $40 premium over the competition? I notice the quoted transfer rates seem substantially higher than the competitors, but does it deliver that kind of performance real-world?
So make sure you're comparing their prices against the other guys.
Oh no, I won't be able to do it until sometime next month or so. I'm just doing a lot of research and planning my build because it's been so long since I've done this. My last few machines were pre-built, so I'm a little nervous and excited at the same time. The last two machines I did put together had parts arrive DOA from the store, which made everyone in the house want to leave and cautious about this new machine because I, uh, flew into a bit of a rage trying to troubleshoot what was wrong.
I'm kinda having difficulty parsing this post, but a Samsung 830 256GB is a good choice over an m4 256GB if it's cheaper. The differences in speed, if any, aren't really going to be noticeable in day to day work. I love the m4s and own two myself but a few people I know (including people in this thread) really like the 830s
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better
bit.ly/2XQM1ke
I love putting Windows machines together. *sigh*
chair to Creation and then suplex the Void.
I'm picking up my last two bits tomorrow afternoon (case and mobo), putting it together on Sunday, and then flying away for 8 days...
It uses a different controller, and Samsung makes their own (quite excellent) NAND, but the fundamental design of the memory isn't really different.
I'm fairly certain that the Crucial drives use Micron NAND.
Battle.net
edit: Damn, just noticed the motherboard is discontinued on there now. Any other recommendations for a cheap SLI compatible motherboard?
I'm about a half hour from being home from work, I'll drop a recommendation when I get to my PC.
Battle.net
Are you looking for a MicroATX-sized mobo? Here is a list of SLI-capable mobo in that form. That CPU is fine for gaming, and adding a ~$100 mobo plus ram leaves a lot of room in your budget!
Battle.net
Is anyone here planning a Windows 8 build?
I actually have the same question. It's been like five or six years for me.