External hard drive died today at work when I accidentally pulled the power plug out of the power strip. I extracted the SATA hard drive out of the enclosure and was going to try and put into my work desktop but didn't have a SATA cable there.
Luckily it worked when I put it into my home computer although I did get a boot error detecting Smart status error and but I was still able to get some data off it. Some Intel storage software popped up as well detecting the error which allowed me to reset the error status on the drive. Tried putting it back in the enclosure but it still didn't work there.
Gonna try putting the drive into work computer tomorrow and hopefully can get the rest of the stuff off it.
Anyone have a recommend program for getting detailed Smart staus info? I need to figure out if the drive actually needs to be trashed after getting data off it or if I just killed the board on the hd enclosure.
Outputting to a second monitor (even if it's just in Windows) always caused my GPU to run a little hotter, so I'm assuming it's at least somewhat more taxing and should be turned off to maximize main monitor FPS.
What's a good wireless mouse/keyboard combo? There're so many different wireless techs out now that I have no idea which is the best/most reliable kind of connection.
I havent had an issue with my Logitech Performance MX, and my grandmother is running a super cheap (like $15) Logitech KBAM combo and the only time she complained about it was when it wasnt working because the batteries were dead.
So is having a 2GB GTX 680 going to give me any grief getting triple digit FPS numbers gaming at 1920x1080?
Should I sell it and get two 4GB 680s?
It shouldn't...but I'm not sure why your focusing on "triple digit FPS". Anything over 60 is just headroom unless you are one of the 2% of the population with sensitive enough eyes to notice things over 60 frames.
There is zero reason to go SLI 680's for single monitor gaming. My 2GB 670 pushes 1920x1080 single monitor at max settings in nearly everything...and by "nearly" I mean I haven't found a game yet that it can't do. I'll see how FarCry 3 does later today, probably the game right now that has the most chance of making it sweat. So if my 670 can do it, your 680 can.
Even from the "future proofing" angle, it's better to use your 680 until it actually struggles on something, then upgrade it. SLI for single monitor gaming is just overkill and you're introducing all kinds of issues for very little gain (SLI setup headaches, game compatibility, micro stutter).
ApogeeLancks In Every Game EverRegistered Userregular
edited December 2012
Hey, so do any of you folks have experience with 3D gaming these days? I'm thinking of upgrading to a 3D capable monitor, and I've noticed passive 3D displays are starting to come out; that seems preferable to the active-shutter glasses that are prominent now. I'm guessing it's really taxing on a video card to display 3d; does it effectively halve your frame rate? Should I wait for the technology to mature some more?
Hey, so do any of you folks have experience with 3D gaming these days? I'm thinking of upgrading to a 3D capable monitor, and I've noticed passive 3D displays are starting to come out; that seems preferable to the active-shutter glasses that are prominent now. I'm guessing it's really taxing on a video card to display 3d; does it effectively halve your frame rate? Should I wait for the technology to mature some more?
I'm planning on buying a 3D-capable monitor soon, though I mainly want one for 120Hz. I want one at 27", however, so that limits my choices. The ASUS VG278HE and the Samsung S27A950D are currently at the top of my list. The latter apparently has much better 2D image quality, but it doesn't support Nvidia 3D Vision unless I trick the software.
And yeah, 3D can cut your framerate in half. It has to render everything twice. Some monitors do include a 2D to 3D conversion feature that doesn't eat into your performance, as the monitor is doing the work instead of your GPU, but it's not as good as the solutions from Nvidia and TriDef.
If you want to send that kind of money and not worry about SLI issues, you could always just get a GTX 690. Even I'm tempted by that, but in just over a year Nvidia's Maxwell cards will be out and they'll probably eat the Kepler line for breakfast.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
So is having a 2GB GTX 680 going to give me any grief getting triple digit FPS numbers gaming at 1920x1080?
Should I sell it and get two 4GB 680s?
It shouldn't...but I'm not sure why your focusing on "triple digit FPS". Anything over 60 is just headroom unless you are one of the 2% of the population with sensitive enough eyes to notice things over 60 frames.
I got into an argument with a stranger on Facebook when he said that gamers regularly play at 200fps and can tell when it dips to 100fps. The original topic of conversation was about the 48fps Hobbit.
I got a good laugh out of that.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I like being able to hit 100fps, because that means I normally don't drop below 60fps during big slowdowns.
Anyone who claims to be able to tell the difference between 200fps and 100fps is on crack, however.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
the only modernish games i can think of that i might be able to get close to 200fps in are the kinda games where you wouldn't care if your fps was lower.
maybe tf2? I'dunno i've never played it but it's gettin on in years now and looks kinda twitchy.
There is zero reason to go SLI 680's for single monitor gaming. My 2GB 670 pushes 1920x1080 single monitor at max settings in nearly everything...and by "nearly" I mean I haven't found a game yet that it can't do. I'll see how FarCry 3 does later today, probably the game right now that has the most chance of making it sweat. So if my 670 can do it, your 680 can.
To report back on this, FarCry 3 detected it's optimal settings for me to be basically everything ultra/very high, on my 670. It was completely playable at this, though I wasn't getting 60fps constant (had dips to 40ish in really intense areas). I would say the 680 should get right at 60fps with basically everything on, but this is the game that could actually push a single 680 at 1080p, I believe. I still don't think SLI 680's is worth it, but there is a subjective value question there that I can't answer for someone else.
Not that i think buying a second card to run msaa is worth it per se but i'm curious since the benches i've seen suggest that not even a 680/7970 can't average 60fps with full ultra and 4x msaa on.
Gonna test it later on on my OC'd 7970s i think
Day of the Bear on
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
That's with 4x MSAA. And to clarify, I have everything maxed. What it detected as "optimal" for my 670 the exact same settings as it's "ultimate" preset.
Turning off traditional AA methods should net a huge gain in frames. I tend to either leave them off - a few jaggies don't bother me - or turn on FXAA if the option is present. I think Nvidia has a similar method called TXAA? I'll probably only use that once I switch from the red camp into the green.
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
Jaggies bother me more than frames, I am perfectly fine at 40-60 FPS. I may try 2x MSAA just to see.
I think I got mine running nicely at 2x or 4x MSAA.
I always forget which one is the "free" AA for Nvidia cards, so I usually end up stuck with MSAA just because the two cards can power through it most of the time.
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
i am delighted there is a game that can bring a dual gpu setup down a notch when cranked all the way up
Developers keep putting out games that require more expensive cards --> nVidia and ATI are happy to oblige people with $400, $500, and $600 graphics cards --> developers put out a new game that makes those $600 cards look awful --> ??
The virtuous cycle of spending continues.
Hamurabi on
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
i am delighted there is a game that can bring a dual gpu setup down a notch when cranked all the way up
Me too. It's nice to know it's actually using all my horsies.
This is actually the first game that I couldn't max out completely. Well, I could, but my frame rate was dipping under 30, so it's not like the game "looks awful" or anything. Hell, Far Cry 3 looks pretty hot on medium.
minor incident on
Everything looks beautiful when you're young and pretty
ye, msaa8x is too much for my cards. Puts my fps down around 30. 4x and i'm around 45-50 though and things are looking mighty fine. I might see if i can push my OCs further but i doubt i'll net another 15fps that way.
e: i noticed that it's not that heavy on the vram usage so tomorrow i might get it installed on the other rig and see what some two and a half year old GPUs can make of things.
Day of the Bear on
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
What happens when a game's VRAM usage exceeds the card's onboard RAM? Does it offload the extra textures (I assume VRAM is used largely for texture storage) onto system RAM?
Generally you'll get very uneven framerates as you get a moment or two of smooth frames as you eat through the frame buffer then bad stutter as the card tries to play catch up
Most modern games will just tell you no if you try to crank settings well above what your vram can do so it's more typical if you're modding or otherwise messing with the way the graphics look(hello skyrim)
I am able to get an employee discount on Samsung products. Sometimes the prices are worse than a retailer like newegg or Amazon, but one thing I'm able to get good prices on is SSDs.
So my question is: 830 or an 840 pro? The difference in price is about $50, but if the performance on the 840 is worth it, then I don't mind spending the extra scratch.
Posts
Luckily it worked when I put it into my home computer although I did get a boot error detecting Smart status error and but I was still able to get some data off it. Some Intel storage software popped up as well detecting the error which allowed me to reset the error status on the drive. Tried putting it back in the enclosure but it still didn't work there.
Gonna try putting the drive into work computer tomorrow and hopefully can get the rest of the stuff off it.
Anyone have a recommend program for getting detailed Smart staus info? I need to figure out if the drive actually needs to be trashed after getting data off it or if I just killed the board on the hd enclosure.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Photo-Rec for file recovery.
What's a good wireless mouse/keyboard combo? There're so many different wireless techs out now that I have no idea which is the best/most reliable kind of connection.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
So is having a 2GB GTX 680 going to give me any grief getting triple digit FPS numbers gaming at 1920x1080?
Should I sell it and get two 4GB 680s?
Probably not for most stuff
Yes
It shouldn't...but I'm not sure why your focusing on "triple digit FPS". Anything over 60 is just headroom unless you are one of the 2% of the population with sensitive enough eyes to notice things over 60 frames.
There is zero reason to go SLI 680's for single monitor gaming. My 2GB 670 pushes 1920x1080 single monitor at max settings in nearly everything...and by "nearly" I mean I haven't found a game yet that it can't do. I'll see how FarCry 3 does later today, probably the game right now that has the most chance of making it sweat. So if my 670 can do it, your 680 can.
Even from the "future proofing" angle, it's better to use your 680 until it actually struggles on something, then upgrade it. SLI for single monitor gaming is just overkill and you're introducing all kinds of issues for very little gain (SLI setup headaches, game compatibility, micro stutter).
Edit: Displays like this one: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176253CVF
Passive glasses, so a lot cheaper.
I'm planning on buying a 3D-capable monitor soon, though I mainly want one for 120Hz. I want one at 27", however, so that limits my choices. The ASUS VG278HE and the Samsung S27A950D are currently at the top of my list. The latter apparently has much better 2D image quality, but it doesn't support Nvidia 3D Vision unless I trick the software.
And yeah, 3D can cut your framerate in half. It has to render everything twice. Some monitors do include a 2D to 3D conversion feature that doesn't eat into your performance, as the monitor is doing the work instead of your GPU, but it's not as good as the solutions from Nvidia and TriDef.
Edit: ASUS just released a 27" passive 3D IPS panel for around $360 that looks interesting, though it doesn't do 120Hz: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236304
If you want to send that kind of money and not worry about SLI issues, you could always just get a GTX 690. Even I'm tempted by that, but in just over a year Nvidia's Maxwell cards will be out and they'll probably eat the Kepler line for breakfast.
I got into an argument with a stranger on Facebook when he said that gamers regularly play at 200fps and can tell when it dips to 100fps. The original topic of conversation was about the 48fps Hobbit.
I got a good laugh out of that.
Anyone who claims to be able to tell the difference between 200fps and 100fps is on crack, however.
maybe tf2? I'dunno i've never played it but it's gettin on in years now and looks kinda twitchy.
there may be displays out there that go higher but they aren't a normal available thing.
nice
still waiting for the tech to get to a place where 1440/1600 comes at 120hz though
Totes.
To report back on this, FarCry 3 detected it's optimal settings for me to be basically everything ultra/very high, on my 670. It was completely playable at this, though I wasn't getting 60fps constant (had dips to 40ish in really intense areas). I would say the 680 should get right at 60fps with basically everything on, but this is the game that could actually push a single 680 at 1080p, I believe. I still don't think SLI 680's is worth it, but there is a subjective value question there that I can't answer for someone else.
Not that i think buying a second card to run msaa is worth it per se but i'm curious since the benches i've seen suggest that not even a 680/7970 can't average 60fps with full ultra and 4x msaa on.
Gonna test it later on on my OC'd 7970s i think
It almost brings a year to my eye.
Actually, not totally maxed. Even with two 670s, I still had to dial down the AA a couple notches to keep it smooth.
i am delighted there is a game that can bring a dual gpu setup down a notch when cranked all the way up
I think I got mine running nicely at 2x or 4x MSAA.
I always forget which one is the "free" AA for Nvidia cards, so I usually end up stuck with MSAA just because the two cards can power through it most of the time.
Developers keep putting out games that require more expensive cards --> nVidia and ATI are happy to oblige people with $400, $500, and $600 graphics cards --> developers put out a new game that makes those $600 cards look awful --> ??
The virtuous cycle of spending continues.
Me too. It's nice to know it's actually using all my horsies.
This is actually the first game that I couldn't max out completely. Well, I could, but my frame rate was dipping under 30, so it's not like the game "looks awful" or anything. Hell, Far Cry 3 looks pretty hot on medium.
e: i noticed that it's not that heavy on the vram usage so tomorrow i might get it installed on the other rig and see what some two and a half year old GPUs can make of things.
;-)
Most modern games will just tell you no if you try to crank settings well above what your vram can do so it's more typical if you're modding or otherwise messing with the way the graphics look(hello skyrim)
So my question is: 830 or an 840 pro? The difference in price is about $50, but if the performance on the 840 is worth it, then I don't mind spending the extra scratch.
Going froma mech to SSD is like going from a 3 spd manual to a 7 speed automatic, no brainer.
Going from a 7 spd auto to an 8 spd really isn't something I put a premium on.
I'd rather put that fifty into more ram, better CPU, nicer case, lots of other things.
but for fifty bucks it may not be worth it depending on your usage
i'm personally planning on picking one up but the 830 is still an exceptional drive.