Buying a car, it's been sitting for a while.

spookymuffin

Do I have anything to worry about? I'm pretty set on getting it (1999 Golf IV), and I'm getting a pretty good deal on it, but I found out that it has been sitting since about May. Is there anything specific I should be worried about? Everything looked good to me when I checked it out last week, it started up fine, the tires don't look flat or misshapen, and I have to put new (winter) tires on it anyway. I'm just concerned that since it's been driven scarcely (or not at all) over the summer, I might be staring down a money pit.

Djeet

If sitting for 6 months I would only be concerned about the gas in the tank, the battery, and the tires. I would probably go ahead and change out the oil. It's cheap and you know it has been there at least 6 months.

grouch993

Pay to have a pre-purchase inspection performed. Make sure not to use the mechanics/facilities the previous owner used.

Karrmer

Definitely get it inspected by someone you trust, ESPECIALLY a Volkswagen. Other than that, problem areas would be battery, tires, and fluids mainly. Nothing huge

spookymuffin

Actually, the mechanic this guy used is the same guy that I currently go to. He knows the couple of problems the car has (I know of them as well), and it's nothing major. There is almost no gas in the tank. Buying a VW isn't a scare for me, since I currently own a Golf III, and I live in Germany.

juggerbot

I've never been able to get rid of my old car after getting a new one, and since it's fun to drive and cheap to insure, I usually just switch between the two, summer and winter. Since then I've learned of a few car storage pitfalls.

First, how was it stored? If outdoors, sun damage would be a concern, but this is mostly immediately visible such as paint fading and interior plastic degradation. You mentioned you are switching out the tires, but if you plan on switch out of winter tires in warm weather, you can use the old tires as long as there are no flat spots or cracked sidewalls.

I would second the suggestion of changing the oil as soon as it is convenient. Not only because of it having sat around, but also because used oil can serve as another check of the car's health, like a blood test. If it smells off (like fuel) or if it has water or metal shavings in it, there could be something very wrong.

As for fuel, I'm not sure what fuel standards they use in Germany, but I've never had a problem with gas after only 6 months of storage. If you want to be safe, bring a small fuel can of fresh fuel to dilute the old fuel, drive around until the tank is almost empty, then fill up the whole tank with fresh fuel. I've heard opposite tips on long term storage as far as fuel level. One school of thought suggests that a full tank will reduce the amount of water condensed out the air from heating and cooling cycles (less air = less water vapor to be condensed). The other school says that an empty tank minimizes the amount of "bad" fuel (either "oxidized" or fouled somehow) which will run through the fuel system. Again, this might have to do with additives in the fuel, which vary from place to place.

I recently had a problem with mice in my winter car. I left a pack of tissues inside, and the little bastards made a nest with some, leaving shredded tissue everywhere. So if you see an unusual amount of debris inside, or if it smells like something died inside, this may be an issue.

Lastly, I would highly recommend a test drive before purchase. This will ensure everything is in working order. Even if the seller is trustworty, there may be something wrong which they honestly have no idea about. Make sure you test the air conditioner if it has one, and no weird smells are coming from the vents. Test all electrical components, like power locks, windows, seats, etc., to make sure the wires haven't been chewed through.

zepherin

Also throw some fuel injector cleaner in the tank with a fresh tank of gas. Also make sure you have enough coolant.

mts

the gas is probably ok especially if its mostly empty, i definitely drop some cleaner as siggested. the biggest issue will be the battery and the tires

Pel

General information: Check rust, tires, and coolant/oil. Feel inside the wheel wells. You can feel rust forming there on the lip of the body where it meets the plastic wheel well liner before you can see it. You mentioned the tires, check also for uneven wear. Uneven wear can be a sign of not only misaligned steering (no big deal) but also worn ball joints, tie rods, or control arms. AFTER A TEST DRIVE, Check the oil. A layman can't always tell when the oil is dirty or unusual, but if the stuff has flecks of metal or a striking amount of froth or foaminess, or looks very light brown (normal oil will be brown to black depending on the stage of the oil change cycle), then RUN AWAY! If oil pan is empty, run (this could be innocuous but points AT LEAST to somewhat lax maintenance)! Check the coolant either before driving or immediately after starting the car. If bubbles rise steadily up, run! Start the car and check the exhaust. The exhaust should not be cloudy and black, or cloudy and white, but very nearly invisible (assuming the vehicle is not a diesel, with a diesel it's a bit different).

If you are a fan of VW/Audi and are committed to buying one, get a VAG-COM computer interface, or find someone that has one that will test the thing. The VAG (Volkswagen auto group) onboard computers are very comprehensive and can notify you of faults in nearly every system of the car. Not only will it assist you in troubleshooting future mechanical problems, but it can give you an instant snapshot of the state of the running mechanicals of the car. The downside is.... the device and the license cost about $350, and you need a laptop to interface with it obviously. The upside is, the thing will work on any VW/Audi currently on the road, although older ones like the one you are considering will have limited functionality aside from engine conditions.

You can also probably run a scan and post it to a VW enthusiast forum (I lurk VWVORTEX, for example) and generally they will give you in depth input.

Whether this is worth the investment depends on the price of the car and the likelihood you will be doing maintenance on it yourself. If you plan on tweaking the thing or working on it yourself, the purchase is essentially a no-brainer.

Good luck!