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New Puppy, Modern Training, Won't chew chew toys

DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
edited November 2012 in Help / Advice Forum
I've had a few dogs in my life, and I apologize to say that all of them prior to this were raised based on the old methods of training. Pre-Cesar, but still basically the same system, which involved a lot of rubbing noses in poop and shouting no.

So I've got a new puppy, I've read most of the new training material, I've decided to start out based on Dr. Ian Dunbar's methods outlined in "Before and After Getting Your New Puppy" and then move on to some other positive reinforcement training with a clicker, etc.

Fundamental problem: Everything I've understood about this relied on one simple truth that Dr. Dunbar takes on faith, which is simply not working out to be true: That you can feed your dog meals out of chew toys and use the chew toys as a primary activity to settle into everything (huge starting point: crate training). This dog refuses to chew chew toys. Even though he seems to be hungry and I've got chew toys stuffed with kibble, some smeared with peanut butter, some packed with freeze dried liver on each end, he shows absolutely no interest in them whatsoever. I've got a puppy kong, a small breed kong (slightly larger and harder) and another more ballish thing my some other brand that still allows for stuffing. He's licked at the peanut butter a bit, but then completely ignores them. He also won't go for a rubber bone, a stuffed toy or a bully stick.

I think part of my problem is going to be the previous owner. He's still a puppy, but growing up it looks like he didn't play with many toys, and those he did must've been pieces of paper and towels, because he WILL chew those. I don't want to use a towel longterm, I'd like to get him on proper chew toys so we can have longer meal times out of them, etc., which will also lead to getting him more comfortable in his crate. Right now he'll sleep in his crate if the door is open, but he goes full demon if you shut it.

It's been a long time since I've had a puppy. I thought I remembered more about dogs than apparently I do, and I thought I was prepped with all the reading I've done. Now I'm completely stumped. Halp.

And I'll post pictures when I can find the time to find the dang camera connector.

What is this I don't even.
Darkewolfe on

Posts

  • ceresceres When the last moon is cast over the last star of morning And the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    What breed is he, and how old?

    And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
  • SkeithSkeith Registered User regular
    If he's into towels, you could try a rope.

    aTBDrQE.jpg
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    He's 11 weeks and a terrier type. I think I'm just flipping out because he's flipping out, due to the whole "kidnap you from your family, torture you for a car ride and with all new ideas like leashes and collars, put you in an environment like you've never known."

    I don't seem to be getting anywhere with anything except exhausting him till he sleeps, TRYING to get him outside for bathroom time (cleaning when I fail), and dissuading him from destroying everything. He's starting to sleep in his crate because we sit there and play with toys and eat when I think he might get sleepy. Making progress, I guess.

    What is this I don't even.
  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    i see a major fault with that. if you only feed him with kong type they won't have any interest in them unless its stuffed with food.

    some dogs don't have a high chew drive. when our dog was a puppy she wouldn't touch kongs other than when we stuffed them
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    He's 11 weeks and a terrier type. I think I'm just flipping out because he's flipping out, due to the whole "kidnap you from your family, torture you for a car ride and with all new ideas like leashes and collars, put you in an environment like you've never known."

    I don't seem to be getting anywhere with anything except exhausting him till he sleeps, TRYING to get him outside for bathroom time (cleaning when I fail), and dissuading him from destroying everything. He's starting to sleep in his crate because we sit there and play with toys and eat when I think he might get sleepy. Making progress, I guess.

    yep thats the best way to train a puppy. just stay consistent

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  • KarrmerKarrmer Registered User regular
    I just got a new puppy as well and can understand some of the frustration. I'd suggest going to Petco/Petsmart/something similar, iif he's able to handle it, and literally just letting him try playing with all sorts of toys and chews. Our 9 week old mini aussie wasn't really digging the rope or anything but seems to really be into toys with bells in them, which we only found out by letting him grab things there.

    Also try other treats in the kong? My first puppy went insane for peanut butter but this new one doesn't like it at all. Maybe try cheese?

  • ihmmyihmmy Registered User regular
    you can try things like Greenies or Dentastix as well (I personally love Greenies - I used them to train my 2nd dog that her kennel was an awesome place to be, and they still get one 4/5 times when I leave in the am. They hear me rustling the bag and run to their kennels all on their own now)

    How long have you had him? I found with my second dog (adopted from a bad home) it took at least a few weeks before she started feeling even vaguely close to settled in. My first dog it wasn't quite the same, but I had visited her tonnes before hand (adopted from a family friend). A lot of it may be patience and calm for now, and puppy-proofing the place from having papers and other delicious non-chewables around.

  • supabeastsupabeast Registered User regular
    11 weeks is very, very young. Puppies that young shouldn’t even be separated from their mothers. Don’t expect to see any training method start taking hold that young. Just keep trying with the toys every day until he finally understands.

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    supabeast wrote: »
    supabeast wrote: »
    11 weeks is very, very young. Puppies that young shouldn’t even be separated from their mothers. Don’t expect to see any training method start taking hold that young. Just keep trying with the toys every day until he finally understands.

    Pretty much everything I've ever read puts 8 weeks at the magic number, but some folks say 10 weeks if the original owner is good with training. Most sources seem to indicate that 12 weeks is one of the big event points, and you need to get certain training and socialization ideas in before that.

    I've only had him a couple days. He's still adjusting. My big problem is that I'd had everything around Dr. Dunbar's books, which swear up and down that the most important thing is stuffing Kongs with kibble and a tiny bit of treats to sweeten the deal. He'll gnaw on stuff, but he won't take to the kongs to get food out. A big part of Dunbar's stuff is keeping the dog occupied anytime he's got a few hours alone by having to work at chew toys to get at food.

    What is this I don't even.
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Someone remind me that I'll feel less like shouting at him all the time eventually. God, this is exhausting.

    And no, I haven't been shouting at him. Except the time he tried to eat a big branch of azalea leaves I wasn't aware I had.

    What is this I don't even.
  • SkeithSkeith Registered User regular
    Give it a couple more days for him to adjust, then take him to a Petco or something as per Karrmer's suggestion.

    aTBDrQE.jpg
  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    honestly i always cringe a little when someone says follow so and so method of trianing. since they assume every dog is the same.

    your method relies on him having a huge food and chew drive, which he doesn't since food isn't this mega awesome reward why bother trying to figure out the kong.

    11 weeks is really young for anyhting beyond sit, and down and maybe a few seconds of stay.

    does he respond to treats?

    have a favorite toy?

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  • Dr. FrenchensteinDr. Frenchenstein Registered User regular
    have you tried a treat ball, where when the pooch rolls it around, food falls out? Does he eat if you just put food in a bowl? and he likes the treats when out of a toy?

    I had a hard time playing anything but tug when my dog was a puppy, just because she didn't seem to "get" anything else. I've heard bad things about playing that, but i think if you do it right, it's fine. basically, i was told that you have to initiate the tug game, and you need to teach them that it stops when you say it does.

  • ThanatosThanatos Registered User regular
    Terriers are notoriously difficult to train, so try not to get too discouraged, and keep at it.

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    He won't play tug for long. He will get SUPER excited about getting fed anything at all out of the hand, and so training for "Come" is going really easily. He's definitely food motivated, he just seems to have too much ADD to bother with any chew toy for any long time. He'll put about 10 seconds on any toy before he wants to do something else. The only exception is a piece of rawhide which he really likes to chew while being held just before going to sleep. He really, really prefers to sit in my lap and chew that particular piece of rawhide while he dozes off. I didn't even realize he was sleeping at first, because he'd gone to sleep with his jaws locked around it.

    Things are improving somewhat. The really big key for me with the chew toys was giving him occupational items for the times when he's going to be alone while folks are at work. It was also a big goal for me for getting him comfortable being locked up in the crate while we're at home once we use the crate for crate training. (Referring to locking him up when it's close to time for him to void, so that we can take him outside confident that he has to go, giving us the opportunity to praise optimal behavior, rather than trying the old method of punishing voiding in the wrong spot, etc.)

    I think Than may also just have a gist of it. He's a smart, stubborn little bastard and every step is a challenge.

    What is this I don't even.
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Can anyone provide some help/tips for leash-training? I've read so much conflicting advice on this one. I understand that it depends on the dog, but I'm not confident that I understand enough to choose what to apply to my dog. The previous dog owner said that he absolutely needed a choke chain, and that a harness would ruin him because it'd train his aggressive, terrier tendencies to pull the leash. Most people recommend harnesses in general, but I do notice that a dog on a harness is less likely to be trained not to fight the leash. A head harness is often recommended, but I've read frightening things about worrying he might take a lunge at a rabbit or something and injure his neck.

    Right now he's just got a nylon collar and I was just going to try to work on that. I'd like to figure out a way to just train him not to pull at the leash.

    What is this I don't even.
  • ThanatosThanatos Registered User regular
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Can anyone provide some help/tips for leash-training? I've read so much conflicting advice on this one. I understand that it depends on the dog, but I'm not confident that I understand enough to choose what to apply to my dog. The previous dog owner said that he absolutely needed a choke chain, and that a harness would ruin him because it'd train his aggressive, terrier tendencies to pull the leash. Most people recommend harnesses in general, but I do notice that a dog on a harness is less likely to be trained not to fight the leash. A head harness is often recommended, but I've read frightening things about worrying he might take a lunge at a rabbit or something and injure his neck.
    Right now he's just got a nylon collar and I was just going to try to work on that. I'd like to figure out a way to just train him not to pull at the leash.
    My parents had a terrier who was, like, eighteen when she finally died. To her dying day, she would pull on that collar and leash, choke a bit, cough, and then go right back to pulling.

    I mean, we didn't have her on a leash very often (my parents have a large, fenced-in yard), but you'd still think she'd have eventually picked up on that. Nope.

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Yeah. That is my terror. This guy is going to be a city dog, which means most of his exercise will come from walks, usually in areas with high concentrations of other dogs and children. I need to be able to confidently control him so we don't get ourselves in trouble.

    What is this I don't even.
  • SiskaSiska Shorty Registered User regular
    edited November 2012
    From every dog training show I've seen on tv, when a dog pulls on the leash you do a complete 180 and walk the other way. Eventually the dog will get that you decide where you two are going and how fast. Not speaking from experience though. The only dog I ever had was an elderly female lab who was already well trained when we got her and would only occasionally give a little tug if something very interesting was happening and would always stop when told.

    Siska on
  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    yea you ideally want the dog to be watching you and not pulling ahead. to accomplish this, you need to change your direction a lot, speed up, stop etc randomly, and don't do it half assed, you might jerk him around a bit at first, but eventually he will start paying attention. also make sure you treat when he does what you want. just keep a bag of kibble in your pocket and discreetly grab one when you want to give it to him so it is more of a surprise.

    also i recomend getting him used to stopping at every intersection. we did this with our dog and it paid off. we had some friends watching her while we were on our honeymoon and after getting droppped off at our house, she found a way out of our fence and proceeded to walk to the intersection of the busy road, stop, wait for traffic to stop and then walked across the street to follow our friends home.

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  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    I've never seen a credible dog training show on tv, unfortunately.

    What is this I don't even.
  • IrukaIruka Registered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    Lots of SPCAs have obedience training, if you start running out of resources and need more advice. I dont know what city you are in, but look for something like this:

    http://www.sdhumane.org/site/PageServer?pagename=res_PuppyFunClass


    The benefit of doing it with a humane society is you'll get lots of puppies to socialize your dog with, and usually you'll encounter experienced and forward thinking animal lovers. If you don't have the time for this kind of thing, I totally understand, but getting this kind of advice in person can be super beneficial. The guys at my old SPCA were also really easy to stay in touch with, but we were in a pretty small city.

  • ihmmyihmmy Registered User regular
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Can anyone provide some help/tips for leash-training? I've read so much conflicting advice on this one. I understand that it depends on the dog, but I'm not confident that I understand enough to choose what to apply to my dog. The previous dog owner said that he absolutely needed a choke chain, and that a harness would ruin him because it'd train his aggressive, terrier tendencies to pull the leash. Most people recommend harnesses in general, but I do notice that a dog on a harness is less likely to be trained not to fight the leash. A head harness is often recommended, but I've read frightening things about worrying he might take a lunge at a rabbit or something and injure his neck.

    Right now he's just got a nylon collar and I was just going to try to work on that. I'd like to figure out a way to just train him not to pull at the leash.


    I use a pinch collar for my dogs since they try to pull all the damn time, no matter what I do (they're a collective 15lbs, but still, it's annoying). My parents dogs always use harnesses since collars slip right off them, but they pull quite badly with just the harness. My parents tend to also put a pinch collar on them and somehow leash both together and that works for them, but I have no idea the logistics on that one. Personally I've found the pinch collar to be appropriate corrective without being horribly painful (I tested it out on my arm pretty hard it was just uncomfortable, not truly painful)

    Also: where are the puppy pictures!?!?!?!

  • Dr. FrenchensteinDr. Frenchenstein Registered User regular
    a lot of people use that gentle lead (the one that goes over their muzzle) for bad pullers. obedience class will do you a world of good, it's totally worth the money, just make sure to do the homework.

  • DemonStaceyDemonStacey TTODewback's Daughter In love with the TaySwayRegistered User regular
    Thanatos wrote: »
    Terriers are notoriously difficult to train, so try not to get too discouraged, and keep at it.

    This.

    And you mentioned ADD. That's also a terrier thing. They kinda march to beat of their own drum and like to get into any trouble they can find. It's kinda their thing. Keep at it. He may never be perfect but eventually he'll come into his own and mature and you'll learn to love him despite the fact that he's a little shit.

  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    DaemonSadi wrote: »
    Thanatos wrote: »
    Terriers are notoriously difficult to train, so try not to get too discouraged, and keep at it.

    This.

    And you mentioned ADD. That's also a DOG thing. They kinda march to beat of their own drum and like to get into any trouble they can find. It's kinda their thing. Keep at it. He may never be perfect but eventually he'll come into his own and mature and you'll learn to love him despite the fact that he's a little shit.

    fixed that for you.
    a lot of people use that gentle lead (the one that goes over their muzzle) for bad pullers. obedience class will do you a world of good, it's totally worth the money, just make sure to do the homework.

    this will really depend on the type of dog and their body. if he is short snouted, the regular GL won't work as well. we had good luck with their EZ-walk harness. with either make sure you put it on correct and are using them properly

    camo_sig.png
  • SatsumomoSatsumomo Rated PG! Registered User regular
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    I've never seen a credible dog training show on tv, unfortunately.

    Even though a lot of people might dismiss him, Cesar Millan does point out very important things about dog's pack behaviours. My dad's a vet and he knew Millan when he was working with one of his colleagues in Culiacán, and he's seen the show and he vouches for a lot of stuff there.
    I have a friend whose dog always jumps up on people, except on me, because I've made it clear I'm a "leader" with the dog. He actually follows me around when I go visit.

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Cesar Millan is a stupid hack whose entire premise is based on outdated wolf research that was applied to dogs with no scientific foundation whatsoever. Cesar Millan kills dogs. Just... Just read up on it.

    What is this I don't even.
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