What do you guys make of this pc here? Apologies for the constant questions but ireally need a pc/laptop badly and Friday is the deadline for ordering it. I have a 6950 and a gtx 460 so I'm set on the gpu front.
What's the status of your old PC? Are there other parts or a windows license you can bring along?
What do you guys make of this pc here? Apologies for the constant questions but ireally need a pc/laptop badly and Friday is the deadline for ordering it. I have a 6950 and a gtx 460 so I'm set on the gpu front.
What's the status of your old PC? Are there other parts or a windows license you can bring along?
Well I think I found the overclocking sweet spot for my system. Currently running at 4.4 GHz with Core Voltage around 1.24 V. Running Prime95 Blender Test for an hour got me no errors or crashes and temps generally hovered around 85C, occasionally spiking to 90C. Idling now at about 30C. Pretty sure I'm going to go forward with this speed since it seems perfectly stable.
and then after it does it's 10 passes, see if all the results are the same, if so you've got a completely stable system.
Hmm, so maybe not as stable as I thought. Using the Burn Test on Standard mode, it did remain stable with 10 runs, but my temps were alarmingly high, at times sitting at about 97C. I ended up scaling it back to 4.2 GHz with Core Voltage around 1.23 V, and now I can run a stable Burn Test on High stress mode without ever cracking 85C.
Honestly, I'm happy with that. It's plenty for me, and knowing that I can always go back in and tweak it some more if I want to is fine. Pretty sure I won't have any problems running anything at 4.2 anyway, so away we go.
That burn test is putting all your cores to 100% for the entirety of the test, so it's an extreme situation that will never happen in real life.
So you would of probably been fine at your old OC, but 85C at 4.2 in that test is great as long as all the results for the math come out the same, that's the part that matters.
That's probably true, and as you and Bear (and others) said, there's little chance I'll ever hit that kind of stress on the CPU in normal use. I'm really good with 4.2 though, I don't see anything taxing it any time soon. Knowing I can go higher though, eventually I may just put in a water cooler and go all out to see how far I can push it. Gives me something to look forward to I suppose.
Now it's time to look a bit into GPU overclocking.
The thing that makes me the angriest is that closing that window before leaving would have avoided the whole situation. But this was a particularly bad storm, lots of flooded streets and strong winds. The desk that got wet is actually on the opposite wall, facing the window, almost 10 feet away. The rain was coming in almost horizontally. And this is the 6th floor on an apartment building!
You should perhaps brush up on your stormwatching skills.
I didn't wanna be the one to have to bite the bullet and make a joke.
I'm just disappointed I didn't think to make this joke first.
@big classy 500watts is plenty of power for a single gpu sandybridge system.
@Stormwatcher here's hoping the rice works. I'd have probably removed all components from one another (including HSF and CPU) and wash generally with degreaser or contact cleaner (for electrical contacts, not eyeball contacts). These are quick evaporating solvents where and the object to to generously rinse out any moisture with a faster evaporating solvent. If you do choose to do this then do it in a well-ventilated area cause poor ventilation means you'll get light headed fast from the evaporating fumes.
On DotB and others' advice, I bought a fan controller to try and create a positive-pressure situation inside my case to prevent dust build-up. It was definitely trying to get in through random tiny openings in my case when I opened it up to install the fan controller. Finally received and installed this guy.
Didn't realize turning the knob all the way down actually means zero fan power, so it stops spinning. Turned the intake fans up to 100% (so like 5:00 on the radial knobs), and turned the exhaust fans up to where they were just barely spinning. Idle temps for the last half-hour or so have been the same as before, when all fans were running off the built-in Antec rear controller. It was also very disappointing to realize that Antec has tethered the included fans to their controller with a second wire apart from the 3-pin connector, so I can't actually remove the fans without snipping the cable to the controller; I don't know if doing that will kill the fans.
I spent the last 24 hours FIGHTING with the bank I got this gift card from in order to be able to use it to buy a newegg GC, so that I could apply it to my stalled order correctly. Newegg tells me I can't retroactively apply the gift card, and I have to cancel the order.
Now that Galaxy 660 TI is out of stock. I AM LIVID.
sigh...there's always another deal but man. All that fucking phone tag for nothing. LET ME SPLIT PAYMENTS, NEWEGG!!!
@Stormwatcher here's hoping the rice works. I'd have probably removed all components from one another (including HSF and CPU) and wash generally with degreaser or contact cleaner (for electrical contacts, not eyeball contacts). These are quick evaporating solvents where and the object to to generously rinse out any moisture with a faster evaporating solvent. If you do choose to do this then do it in a well-ventilated area cause poor ventilation means you'll get light headed fast from the evaporating fumes.
I completely disassembled the machine, yeah, and fortunately the insides were not really drenched, but there were a few humid spots. The parts are still separate and covered in damn rice. It's been pretty hot weather overall, and most devices are back to work already (the vdsl modem, the wireless mice, the powerline ethernet little box).
I'm pretty confident about most parts, with the exception of the external UPS unit and the PSU, which was probably kinda bad, and I wanted to get a new one anyways.
Also despite my tantrum, cancelling my order DID free the availability of that card, so I would up being able to purchase it. Very happy...also guilty for acting like a baby.
But man, seriously NewEgg? Just allow split payments.
Also despite my tantrum, cancelling my order DID free the availability of that card, so I would up being able to purchase it. Very happy...also guilty for acting like a baby.
But man, seriously NewEgg? Just allow split payments.
Also despite my tantrum, cancelling my order DID free the availability of that card, so I would up being able to purchase it. Very happy...also guilty for acting like a baby.
But man, seriously NewEgg? Just allow split payments.
I'm going to go ahead and call racism.
The Galaxy has a $25 MIR, as opposed to the GIGABYTES $10.
Do they generally blow air down onto the PCB? I'm trying to work on the airflow in my case, and I'm finding that my video-card (measly 560 Ti) is hitting ~65C, while while apparently perfectly acceptable, offends my delicate OCD low-temps sensibilities. What I'm wondering is how I can improve airflow to the video-card, and through the case in general. Here's a breakdown of my current airflow situation:
Note that the back slots (where the water cooling grommets go on the P280) and some cutouts in the expansion slot covers are taped up to prevent dust from getting in.
that card looks like an open cooling design, so the fans are blowing upward at the pcb and exhaust air flows out in all directions.
Does your case have a side panel fan hole? An intake fan blowing cool external air in right on top of a gpu can help a lot.
Alternately I've seen people ziptie a pair of 120mm fans edge to edge and mount them from a lower pci slot cover pointing up. I've seen people get some pretty impressive results doing this, and you've got the space for it.
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acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
on the topic of fans, what's the generally accepted direction a fan blows? towards the side that has the "support frame" or away from it?
I have the same fan configuration as Hamurabi (though my cpu fan blows into the heatsink as opposed to pulling air through it), and have been wondering if flipping one of the fans above the CPU to blow fresh air onto it instead of pulling air away from it would improve my cpu temps. My temps are absolutely fine I'm just curious. I haven't done it yet because it's going to be a real pain in the ass to reach the fans above the cpu and I don't want to do it if it wont make an appreciable difference.
I have the same fan configuration as Hamurabi (though my cpu fan blows into the heatsink as opposed to pulling air through it), and have been wondering if flipping one of the fans above the CPU to blow fresh air onto it instead of pulling air away from it would improve my cpu temps. My temps are absolutely fine I'm just curious. I haven't done it yet because it's going to be a real pain in the ass to reach the fans above the cpu and I don't want to do it if it wont make an appreciable difference.
My understanding is that you generally want cool(er) air coming in from the bottom of the case, then heating up and moving naturally toward the top where it's expelled -- warm air rises, etc.
I have the same fan configuration as Hamurabi (though my cpu fan blows into the heatsink as opposed to pulling air through it), and have been wondering if flipping one of the fans above the CPU to blow fresh air onto it instead of pulling air away from it would improve my cpu temps. My temps are absolutely fine I'm just curious. I haven't done it yet because it's going to be a real pain in the ass to reach the fans above the cpu and I don't want to do it if it wont make an appreciable difference.
My understanding is that you generally want cool(er) air coming in from the bottom of the case, then heating up and moving naturally toward the top where it's expelled -- warm air rises, etc.
it's not so much about the temperature of the air your moving, it's more about reducing turbulence. So you want to draw air through the case in one smooth river of air, generally from the front/bottom/side and out the top/back. if you start to change that around too much you can create pockets of air in the case that just swirl around and heat up more and more.
Top fan intake will definitely lower cpu temps, as well as providing ram and vrm with better cooling.
the best way to do it is with a single intake fan placed forward of your cpu cooler's intake, and nothing else on top. This channels cool outside air down and into the cpu intake while minimizing the chances of recycling warm exhaust air or creating turbulence.
This will definitely create a positive intake pressure system unless you have crazy exhaust fans
E: I used an airflow setup like this while my 3930k was still on air. Temps absolutely improved
Also as others have noted convection is not a strong enough force to overcome or even measurably effect fan air flow. So long as you keep airflow moving along things will be fine
I was pondering about fans and airflow for a while myself. I've got a Corsair H60 cooler, and it's acting as an exhaust. However they recommend it as an intake for better cooling. So far this is how my case is set up:
-1 fan in front, sucking in air.
-1 fan on the left side, sucking in air.
-1 fan on top, blowing out air.
-H60 fan, blowing out air.
-I've also got the options of an additional fan on the left side, and an additional fan on top. However with the H60 I very much doubt I could fit another in there.
There's been no overheating at all from anything. The CPU hovered around 75'ish C under full load testing. There's also a temperature LCD on the front of the case which appears to monitor the general case temp, and the highest it's ever been is 25C. If I leave the window open and it's a particularly chilly night, it can hit below 20. I've still been wondering if it's worth tweaking, or if it's better to subscribe to the ol' "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". The only other worries I have are how things will be if and when I throw in a proper video card in (there's nothing inside, just running on integrated right now), and how it'll be during summer (this room can get pretty toasty at times).
If nothing else, I might replace the fans in the near future. They all came with the case, and they're not particularly strong. Like I said though, absolutely no problems with overheating yet.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
mounting the radiator as intake would certainly yield lower temps but with the way your airflow is laid out there's no really good place to put it unless you flipped the top to intake
T'was pretty much my initial thought as well. It seems so backwards to normal conventions that I'm not sure how anybody could take advantage of it.
I suppose if I wanted to get super crazy about it, I could mount the fan on the side or even the top, and put in a normal fan in its place. Seems like a lot of fiddling though for not really that much gain.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
Do they generally blow air down onto the PCB? I'm trying to work on the airflow in my case, and I'm finding that my video-card (measly 560 Ti) is hitting ~65C, while while apparently perfectly acceptable, offends my delicate OCD low-temps sensibilities. What I'm wondering is how I can improve airflow to the video-card, and through the case in general. Here's a breakdown of my current airflow situation:
Note that the back slots (where the water cooling grommets go on the P280) and some cutouts in the expansion slot covers are taped up to prevent dust from getting in.
With a setup like that I might be tempted to flip the PSU so that air gets pulled from the front of your case downwards as well as up. Give it a shot and see if your temps change.
Do they generally blow air down onto the PCB? I'm trying to work on the airflow in my case, and I'm finding that my video-card (measly 560 Ti) is hitting ~65C, while while apparently perfectly acceptable, offends my delicate OCD low-temps sensibilities. What I'm wondering is how I can improve airflow to the video-card, and through the case in general. Here's a breakdown of my current airflow situation:
Note that the back slots (where the water cooling grommets go on the P280) and some cutouts in the expansion slot covers are taped up to prevent dust from getting in.
With a setup like that I might be tempted to flip the PSU so that air gets pulled from the front of your case downwards as well as up. Give it a shot and see if your temps change.
There's no intake on the PSU -- just a small exhaust fan on the back where the power connector is.
0
Big DookieSmells great!Houston, TXRegistered Userregular
Do they generally blow air down onto the PCB? I'm trying to work on the airflow in my case, and I'm finding that my video-card (measly 560 Ti) is hitting ~65C, while while apparently perfectly acceptable, offends my delicate OCD low-temps sensibilities. What I'm wondering is how I can improve airflow to the video-card, and through the case in general. Here's a breakdown of my current airflow situation:
Note that the back slots (where the water cooling grommets go on the P280) and some cutouts in the expansion slot covers are taped up to prevent dust from getting in.
My setup is almost identical to this, except my CPU fan is rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise and is pushing air through the heatsink instead of pulling it. So it's basically blowing air through the sink to the top of the case where that hotter air is immediately being expelled by the two fans on top and one on the back. Am I doing this wrong? Would it be better to have the air blowing through the sink to the back of the case instead if the top?
I don't think it matters. The only reason I don't have it blowing the air up instead of out is because the HSF is blocked by the RAM sticks in that direction; it's also the reason I don't have a second 120mm fan on my Hyper212, though I could technically put one on there by just raising the brackets over the RAM a bit.
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Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
derp.
That's probably true, and as you and Bear (and others) said, there's little chance I'll ever hit that kind of stress on the CPU in normal use. I'm really good with 4.2 though, I don't see anything taxing it any time soon. Knowing I can go higher though, eventually I may just put in a water cooler and go all out to see how far I can push it. Gives me something to look forward to I suppose.
Now it's time to look a bit into GPU overclocking.
Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
Here in this godforsaken land, good PSUs are harder to find, and more expensive too, of course.
The best one I could locate so far is this one.
Please note that the newegg link is just for reference, I'm gonna buy it from a local store.
There are lots of Corsairs, but all from the CX series, that I understand are not very good.
It seems 500W should be enough for a Core i5 2500k, a radeon HD7950, plus two HDDs and two SDDs, right?
I'm just disappointed I didn't think to make this joke first.
@big classy 500watts is plenty of power for a single gpu sandybridge system.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Didn't realize turning the knob all the way down actually means zero fan power, so it stops spinning. Turned the intake fans up to 100% (so like 5:00 on the radial knobs), and turned the exhaust fans up to where they were just barely spinning. Idle temps for the last half-hour or so have been the same as before, when all fans were running off the built-in Antec rear controller. It was also very disappointing to realize that Antec has tethered the included fans to their controller with a second wire apart from the 3-pin connector, so I can't actually remove the fans without snipping the cable to the controller; I don't know if doing that will kill the fans.
Now that Galaxy 660 TI is out of stock. I AM LIVID.
sigh...there's always another deal but man. All that fucking phone tag for nothing. LET ME SPLIT PAYMENTS, NEWEGG!!!
Anybody have a different suggestion for a 660?
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125441
I completely disassembled the machine, yeah, and fortunately the insides were not really drenched, but there were a few humid spots. The parts are still separate and covered in damn rice. It's been pretty hot weather overall, and most devices are back to work already (the vdsl modem, the wireless mice, the powerline ethernet little box).
I'm pretty confident about most parts, with the exception of the external UPS unit and the PSU, which was probably kinda bad, and I wanted to get a new one anyways.
Ah, different card. I was looking at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814162120
Also despite my tantrum, cancelling my order DID free the availability of that card, so I would up being able to purchase it. Very happy...also guilty for acting like a baby.
But man, seriously NewEgg? Just allow split payments.
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
I'm going to go ahead and call racism.
The Galaxy has a $25 MIR, as opposed to the GIGABYTES $10.
Also, they are better at math.
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
Do they generally blow air down onto the PCB? I'm trying to work on the airflow in my case, and I'm finding that my video-card (measly 560 Ti) is hitting ~65C, while while apparently perfectly acceptable, offends my delicate OCD low-temps sensibilities. What I'm wondering is how I can improve airflow to the video-card, and through the case in general. Here's a breakdown of my current airflow situation:
Note that the back slots (where the water cooling grommets go on the P280) and some cutouts in the expansion slot covers are taped up to prevent dust from getting in.
Does your case have a side panel fan hole? An intake fan blowing cool external air in right on top of a gpu can help a lot.
Alternately I've seen people ziptie a pair of 120mm fans edge to edge and mount them from a lower pci slot cover pointing up. I've seen people get some pretty impressive results doing this, and you've got the space for it.
The support frame always indicates the exhaust side. The side with just the blades/center is the intake side.
My understanding is that you generally want cool(er) air coming in from the bottom of the case, then heating up and moving naturally toward the top where it's expelled -- warm air rises, etc.
it's not so much about the temperature of the air your moving, it's more about reducing turbulence. So you want to draw air through the case in one smooth river of air, generally from the front/bottom/side and out the top/back. if you start to change that around too much you can create pockets of air in the case that just swirl around and heat up more and more.
the best way to do it is with a single intake fan placed forward of your cpu cooler's intake, and nothing else on top. This channels cool outside air down and into the cpu intake while minimizing the chances of recycling warm exhaust air or creating turbulence.
This will definitely create a positive intake pressure system unless you have crazy exhaust fans
E: I used an airflow setup like this while my 3930k was still on air. Temps absolutely improved
-1 fan in front, sucking in air.
-1 fan on the left side, sucking in air.
-1 fan on top, blowing out air.
-H60 fan, blowing out air.
-I've also got the options of an additional fan on the left side, and an additional fan on top. However with the H60 I very much doubt I could fit another in there.
There's been no overheating at all from anything. The CPU hovered around 75'ish C under full load testing. There's also a temperature LCD on the front of the case which appears to monitor the general case temp, and the highest it's ever been is 25C. If I leave the window open and it's a particularly chilly night, it can hit below 20. I've still been wondering if it's worth tweaking, or if it's better to subscribe to the ol' "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". The only other worries I have are how things will be if and when I throw in a proper video card in (there's nothing inside, just running on integrated right now), and how it'll be during summer (this room can get pretty toasty at times).
If nothing else, I might replace the fans in the near future. They all came with the case, and they're not particularly strong. Like I said though, absolutely no problems with overheating yet.
I suppose if I wanted to get super crazy about it, I could mount the fan on the side or even the top, and put in a normal fan in its place. Seems like a lot of fiddling though for not really that much gain.
With a setup like that I might be tempted to flip the PSU so that air gets pulled from the front of your case downwards as well as up. Give it a shot and see if your temps change.
There's no intake on the PSU -- just a small exhaust fan on the back where the power connector is.
My setup is almost identical to this, except my CPU fan is rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise and is pushing air through the heatsink instead of pulling it. So it's basically blowing air through the sink to the top of the case where that hotter air is immediately being expelled by the two fans on top and one on the back. Am I doing this wrong? Would it be better to have the air blowing through the sink to the back of the case instead if the top?
Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie