Hey gents, I have a question. I posted about a harddrive dying not to long ago. I'm currently training for a new job. So in the mean time I just tossed a fresh copy of windows onto a smaller drive till I can buy a new large drive to clone my regular stuff back onto. It was a legit ISO from windows.
It's been a couple weeks and windows started to prompt me to activate. I ran into an old key in my room I gotten free from school. It was either my key from the other drive, or one I had given my brother.
Putting the key in met with an error, no surprise at all.
The key sat in the activation box and would try to activate periodically with me to lazy to clear the field.
However today I was greeted with a successful activation.
What the hell? I'm not even sure what direction to think in here since I have no idea how MS handles these keys or activation.
Specialized customers are who 32-bit windows exists for. Some businesses/customers may have legacy software that cannot be run by a 32-bit OS, or specialized equipment with legacy drivers that don't work in 64-bit environments. I don't think many OEM's offer consumer computers with 32-bit OS as the default.
I run 64-bit win7 but is there really that much 64-bit software out there? I think most of my programs are in "Program Files (x86)".
my always-on rig has developed a habit of completely shutting down at random. sometimes it restarts automatically, or tries to, and then shuts down again.
i've opened the case and wiggled the 6 pin motherboard cable and that usually starts it right up again. so i guess my question is whether i have a bad connector, a bad motherboard, or a bad power supply
At a guess...Well, I'd say PSU, but wiggling makes it boot? Find out and let us know so when it happens again we know! :P
"For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
If I wanted to rip say... 200 DVDs and BluRays (assorted) how much space am I looking at needing realistically?
I could probably compromise the blurays to 720p tbh.
Blu-rays remuxed to main-movie only with two audio options and English subtitles run at about 35GB / piece. DVDs ripped to AUDIO_TS / VIDEO_TS folders for the main movie only come out at about 2/3 GB depending on the length. Obviously there's tons of space you could save by converting them to something else but I'm lazy, and storage is cheap. Clearly I'm lazy because I spent a few days ripping my movie collection to save me having to cross the room to the shelving unit to grab something to watch when Netflix doesn't cut it.
4TB curently holds ~200 films, with me sitting at about ~65% disc space used.
35GB seems like raw bluray too, eh?
Pretty much. Most of the blu-rays I have don't see much filesize difference when remuxed. The menus and other languages always account for a minimal amount of space. Usually the bonus features will be on another disc or won't take up much space anyway. I'd say they vary from 28-35GB apiece but I just went with the maximum I remember off the top of my head.
The one about the fucking space hairdresser and the cowboy. He's got a tinfoil pal and a pedal bin
Specialized customers are who 32-bit windows exists for. Some businesses/customers may have legacy software that cannot be run by a 32-bit OS, or specialized equipment with legacy drivers that don't work in 64-bit environments. I don't think many OEM's offer consumer computers with 32-bit OS as the default.
I run 64-bit win7 but is there really that much 64-bit software out there? I think most of my programs are in "Program Files (x86)".
The other problem is that Intel Atom CPUs don't really support 64-bit that well (the hardware to support it is theoretically there, but Intel doesn't really want you to use it and doesn't release 64-bit drivers for it) and Netbooks were still a Thing when Win7 launched.
Anyone not using a Netbook should install 64-bit at this point, though.
Computer thread, I am sad. My MSI 660ti 'Power Edition' is haunted by dumb ghosts or some shit.
Every so often for the last few days I'm getting either "Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and has successfully recovered" during game play which, despite the 'successfully' only manages to crash the game in question or a full on crash that leaves me powered on but with no display out until I restart. I've had it happen with a whole slew of games as well.
I've already removed current drivers and downgraded, done clean installs to the latest off of just the default windows driver, futzed around with nvlddmkm.sy_ expansion to replace the file, and basically every other alleged fix I've found.
Temperatures are holding firm right around ~60c on max gpu utilization and I still have room to rev up fans and drop it a degree or two. No overclock on the card or cpu currently but it happened both with and without OC anyways.
I guess next step is either a clean OS install to make certain nothing is just bunged up or contacting MSI for a replacement card to see if that changes anything.
my always-on rig has developed a habit of completely shutting down at random. sometimes it restarts automatically, or tries to, and then shuts down again.
i've opened the case and wiggled the 6 pin motherboard cable and that usually starts it right up again. so i guess my question is whether i have a bad connector, a bad motherboard, or a bad power supply
At a guess...Well, I'd say PSU, but wiggling makes it boot? Find out and let us know so when it happens again we know! :P
I'm tempted to say PSU, especially if the fan isn't working properly, but if wiggling helps, it may indeed be a connection issue. Unfortunately, you'll just have to test the parts independently. I forget how you do it, but if you Google, you can test a power supply with like a paper clip or something when it's disconnected from motherboard and outlet. Check this maybe: http://dodji.seketeli.com/downloads/shuttle-psu-paper-clip-test.pdf
I think that a big strength of consoles, and a big selling point for them, is that they're beginning to function as an HTPC that can play games, for significantly less than you can usually accomplish that with a PC. Now you have the option to stream movies, or even play content stored on your home network. Granted, they don't do those HTPC tasks as well as a dedicated PC (or even some media player boxes) does but if the aim is to make one box to rule them all, they are making strides.
At the risk of going too off topic, my original Xbox360 finally red ringed a month ago and my primary motivation to replace it is because it's my media extender, with a bonus that I have games that can only be played on it.
customised that to include a 600w modular psu and a 1tb hdd. Came to £811. That said would the 430w psu t they have pre-built into the system be adequate?
customised that to include a 600w modular psu and a 1tb hdd. Came to £811. That said would the 430w psu t they have pre-built into the system be adequate?
But doesn't it say right there it comes with a terabyte drive? Or close enough really.
The 430w seems like.. right on the line. They certainly went with only what was needed.
I did the old "paper clip in the green+black wires" to test the PSU without risking any components, and it worked: The fan started spinning, and there was no fire, smoke, sparks or anything scary.
Should I take that as a go-ahead to reassemble the PC using that PSU? Or is it still too risky even if the thing works?
I did the old "paper clip in the green+black wires" to test the PSU without risking any components, and it worked: The fan started spinning, and there was no fire, smoke, sparks or anything scary.
Should I take that as a go-ahead to reassemble the PC using that PSU? Or is it still too risky even if the thing works?
well any local auto parts store, or home reno store, or something like that should have them for like $10-20, or at least US/Canada do, no idea what it's like in Brazil.
The psu is probably fine, but personally I wouldn't use it without a little testing, don't want to have it fry any of your more expensive components.
I am personally quite paranoid about PSUs, but if it spins up and there is no bad sounds or smoke or anything it's likely fine?
I can't say as i've any experience with a potentially water damaged power supply so i am just going by general good practices here. If you've let it alone for a while to allow for drying and it's obviously working now you could give it a go.
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
You don't need 850w, no one needs 850w (well some people do, but those people are running a dual socket x79 boards, with overclocked i7's and triple sli 690's, and there are like 3 people in the world with that)
You don't need a $130 psu, there are some really great 550W units on newegg, for like $70-80.
After a further look at the local shop's offerings for PSUs it seems like even at $125 it is still around $20 more than some of the 650-700W supplies they offer. I might hold off on that purchase and just get something online when it comes time to build the computer. Unless one of you wants to convince me I shouldn't pass that up?
BarcardiAll the WizardsUnder A Rock: AfganistanRegistered Userregular
General PSU question, I built my PC about 4 years ago (quad core intel, 8gigs ram, 4850 ATI I think, disk drives, actual sound card, 4 fans, etc) and a 700W power supply. At the time i was thinking that was plenty for a PSU. Now reading this thread i see that most recommendations for even a higher end gaming PC are a PSU of about 500W or so (just averaging). This is even though there are 1000W PSUs on the market.
So, just generally, what happened with the power supply wattage over time? Did something just collapse in power needed? If so was it the Intel chip or graphics cards that got more efficient? Or did i just do overkill 4 years ago? In all of this, what good is a 1000W PSU? What would that thing even be for?
two things happened. Number one, there's been a big focus on increasing power efficiency on parts.
A core2quad or nehalem i7 was a 130 watt part at least, an ivy bridge i7 is a 77 watt part.
GPUs have come down a similar amount. The other thing is people are growing more aware that you don't need overkill wattage for a normal build.
Heavily overclocked multi card configurations are an entire other story. I've got a 1200 watt which i think will be just about right, and an 850 that is currently scraping by but won't manage when i add another GPU.
General PSU question, I built my PC about 4 years ago (quad core intel, 8gigs ram, 4850 ATI I think, disk drives, actual sound card, 4 fans, etc) and a 700W power supply. At the time i was thinking that was plenty for a PSU. Now reading this thread i see that most recommendations for even a higher end gaming PC are a PSU of about 500W or so (just averaging). This is even though there are 1000W PSUs on the market.
So, just generally, what happened with the power supply wattage over time? Did something just collapse in power needed? If so was it the Intel chip or graphics cards that got more efficient? Or did i just do overkill 4 years ago? In all of this, what good is a 1000W PSU? What would that thing even be for?
As chips are made with a smaller and smaller fab processes, the power usage generally goes down, plus a further emphasis on power efficiency. But at the same time, even 4 years ago 700w was more then most machines used, and a 500-600w psu would of fit your build just fine.
the psu's that are 700w+ are just for those insane people who always think larger number = better, and have more money then sense. I can't even think of a build that would draw anywhere near 1000W.
BarcardiAll the WizardsUnder A Rock: AfganistanRegistered Userregular
So if i were to go with a Geforce 660 of some kind, or wait a few months and get whatever the future 660 is, I would still be around a 500-600W PSU? And your 1200W system, just curious, but how loud do your multiple GPUs get? And how loud is the fan on the 1200W PSU? Any idea?
And side question, does anyone put any faith/stock in these fanless PSUs? Or do they just give off too much heat?
Sorry for all the questions but i'm just genuinely curious at this point.
So if i were to go with a Geforce 660 of some kind, or wait a few months and get whatever the future 660 is, I would still be around a 500-600W PSU? And your 1200W system, just curious, but how loud do your multiple GPUs get? And how loud is the fan on the 1200W PSU? Any idea?
And side question, does anyone put any faith/stock in these fanless PSUs? Or do they just give off too much heat?
Sorry for all the questions but i'm just genuinely curious at this point.
yes you'd still be fine with 5-600W with any gtx 6*0 card, even a 690.
multiple high-end gpu's get very loud, one of the loudest components on any pc is the gpu, just based on the way most cooling setups are on them. and if you go with a sli/crossfire build you generally want "Slot" cooling versions of the card (there are 2 ways that gpu have their fans setup, either it's a single rotor style fan that draws in air, and then blows it across the heatsinks and out the back of the case, or it's multiple fans that just blow the air down onto the heatsinks and then into the case.) and the slot cooled versions are much louder.
a 1220W psu fan would be as loud as any other 120-140mm fan, so depends on the quality of the fan, and the rpm it runs at. The higher the rpm, and smaller a fan is, the louder it is. Plus other factors like number of blades, blade angle, and other features can affect the noise.
fanless psu are ok, they're engineered with the heat in mind, and run just fine. Modern psu don't really put off a lot of heat, and most have the fans off a lot of the time only to kick in occasionally under higher loads.
the reason they even design a 100W psu is because it's easier to design for a really high end, and then you just remove a few components for each smaller psu in the same family line, like the 900w will have a few less voltage regulators and such, and so on down the line. That way they get a psu they only make a few of for those people who enjoy spending to get the best of the best for no reason, and also get a psu at every 50-100w step down from that.
One of the differences too is that it used to be that you might want extra headroom in case you wanted to upgrade - newer parts were expected to use MORE power than older ones. This is no longer the case.
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
You don't need 850w, no one needs 850w (well some people do, but those people are running a dual socket x79 boards, with overclocked i7's and triple sli 690's, and there are like 3 people in the world with that)
You don't need a $130 psu, there are some really great 550W units on newegg, for like $70-80.
Well, those people need 2 850W PSUs, but your point stands.
The other issue is that it's a Cooler Master unit, and even some of their higher end units suck pretty hard.
So if i were to go with a Geforce 660 of some kind, or wait a few months and get whatever the future 660 is, I would still be around a 500-600W PSU? And your 1200W system, just curious, but how loud do your multiple GPUs get? And how loud is the fan on the 1200W PSU? Any idea?
And side question, does anyone put any faith/stock in these fanless PSUs? Or do they just give off too much heat?
Sorry for all the questions but i'm just genuinely curious at this point.
A 660/660 successor and any given CPU would be fine on probably 450watts. 500-600 would see you well clear.
My multi GPU system is watercooled so it's actually pretty quiet when compared to even some single GPU rigs.
As others have said the PSU is no louder than most. THe loudest one i have is actually the bronze efficiency 850watt i have.
Bah! Thought I had it fixed with some additional settings changes but nooope still happens within like half an hour at most. Running Memtest now+overnight and if that is clean I guess its fresh OS time. Might as well send in a RMA request as well just to get that ball rolling if needed. Poopy butts. Poopy poopy butts.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
You don't need 850w, no one needs 850w (well some people do, but those people are running a dual socket x79 boards, with overclocked i7's and triple sli 690's, and there are like 3 people in the world with that)
You don't need a $130 psu, there are some really great 550W units on newegg, for like $70-80.
Dunno about you, but if I had a system like that, I'd be running this power supply.
Aw drat, new psu installed, lights come on (the internal power and reset buttons), but it doesn't power up. No fans, nothing. Now I need to find out if I lost the mono, the CPU or both. Fuck
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
You don't need 850w, no one needs 850w (well some people do, but those people are running a dual socket x79 boards, with overclocked i7's and triple sli 690's, and there are like 3 people in the world with that)
You don't need a $130 psu, there are some really great 550W units on newegg, for like $70-80.
Dunno about you, but if I had a system like that, I'd be running this power supply.
So @minor incident sent me a 6950 last December which was awesome. Sly because I'd stayed workingi never had the time to pop it in and well now pc fried completely, I figured I wouldn't get to use it.
Messaged him and he tells me its a 2gb 6950, near enough the 7870i was going to get in the bundle! Removed the gpu from the bundle and the price comes to a neat £680. Little under £ 200 c cheaper! I love that baker!
Posts
It's been a couple weeks and windows started to prompt me to activate. I ran into an old key in my room I gotten free from school. It was either my key from the other drive, or one I had given my brother.
Putting the key in met with an error, no surprise at all.
The key sat in the activation box and would try to activate periodically with me to lazy to clear the field.
However today I was greeted with a successful activation.
What the hell? I'm not even sure what direction to think in here since I have no idea how MS handles these keys or activation.
I run 64-bit win7 but is there really that much 64-bit software out there? I think most of my programs are in "Program Files (x86)".
32bit windows has no idea what to do with lots of ram.
Also increasingly more software is 64bit enabled, especially newer versions of things that actually need more memory
At a guess...Well, I'd say PSU, but wiggling makes it boot? Find out and let us know so when it happens again we know! :P
Pretty much. Most of the blu-rays I have don't see much filesize difference when remuxed. The menus and other languages always account for a minimal amount of space. Usually the bonus features will be on another disc or won't take up much space anyway. I'd say they vary from 28-35GB apiece but I just went with the maximum I remember off the top of my head.
The other problem is that Intel Atom CPUs don't really support 64-bit that well (the hardware to support it is theoretically there, but Intel doesn't really want you to use it and doesn't release 64-bit drivers for it) and Netbooks were still a Thing when Win7 launched.
Anyone not using a Netbook should install 64-bit at this point, though.
Every so often for the last few days I'm getting either "Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and has successfully recovered" during game play which, despite the 'successfully' only manages to crash the game in question or a full on crash that leaves me powered on but with no display out until I restart. I've had it happen with a whole slew of games as well.
I've already removed current drivers and downgraded, done clean installs to the latest off of just the default windows driver, futzed around with nvlddmkm.sy_ expansion to replace the file, and basically every other alleged fix I've found.
Temperatures are holding firm right around ~60c on max gpu utilization and I still have room to rev up fans and drop it a degree or two. No overclock on the card or cpu currently but it happened both with and without OC anyways.
I guess next step is either a clean OS install to make certain nothing is just bunged up or contacting MSI for a replacement card to see if that changes anything.
I'm tempted to say PSU, especially if the fan isn't working properly, but if wiggling helps, it may indeed be a connection issue. Unfortunately, you'll just have to test the parts independently. I forget how you do it, but if you Google, you can test a power supply with like a paper clip or something when it's disconnected from motherboard and outlet. Check this maybe: http://dodji.seketeli.com/downloads/shuttle-psu-paper-clip-test.pdf
At the risk of going too off topic, my original Xbox360 finally red ringed a month ago and my primary motivation to replace it is because it's my media extender, with a bonus that I have games that can only be played on it.
customised that to include a 600w modular psu and a 1tb hdd. Came to £811. That said would the 430w psu t they have pre-built into the system be adequate?
The 430w seems like.. right on the line. They certainly went with only what was needed.
I did the old "paper clip in the green+black wires" to test the PSU without risking any components, and it worked: The fan started spinning, and there was no fire, smoke, sparks or anything scary.
Should I take that as a go-ahead to reassemble the PC using that PSU? Or is it still too risky even if the thing works?
@alecthar @Day of the Bear and the other nice guys, what do you think?
Well you know it turns on, that's a pretty good sign.
Do you have access to a multimeter? it would be good to check the voltage and amperage on each rail just to be sure that everything is ok.
well any local auto parts store, or home reno store, or something like that should have them for like $10-20, or at least US/Canada do, no idea what it's like in Brazil.
The psu is probably fine, but personally I wouldn't use it without a little testing, don't want to have it fry any of your more expensive components.
I can't say as i've any experience with a potentially water damaged power supply so i am just going by general good practices here. If you've let it alone for a while to allow for drying and it's obviously working now you could give it a go.
~
In other news i finally found an old style 7970 ek waterblock to match the set i have now. Trifireee
It is way more wattage than I'll ever need but it seems pretty cheap. The fact that I can't find it on Newegg.ca should tell me something.
I'm going to pick up a 250gb Samsung 840 for $170 cdn, which seems pretty average for online prices, at the same shop.
edit: Looks like the PSU is a new product. No reviews on Newegg yet.
edit2: There are no other system details to give. I'm planning on building a new desktop once tax returns come in. Looking at an i5-3750k, one 2gb GeForce card levels. Probably only the SSD and one platter drive. Nothing crazy. 850W is definitely overkill but the price compares to some 650-700W supplies I quickly glanced at.
You don't need 850w, no one needs 850w (well some people do, but those people are running a dual socket x79 boards, with overclocked i7's and triple sli 690's, and there are like 3 people in the world with that)
You don't need a $130 psu, there are some really great 550W units on newegg, for like $70-80.
I don't expect on using SLI.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013
good psu, based upon a good seasonic design.
So, just generally, what happened with the power supply wattage over time? Did something just collapse in power needed? If so was it the Intel chip or graphics cards that got more efficient? Or did i just do overkill 4 years ago? In all of this, what good is a 1000W PSU? What would that thing even be for?
A core2quad or nehalem i7 was a 130 watt part at least, an ivy bridge i7 is a 77 watt part.
GPUs have come down a similar amount. The other thing is people are growing more aware that you don't need overkill wattage for a normal build.
Heavily overclocked multi card configurations are an entire other story. I've got a 1200 watt which i think will be just about right, and an 850 that is currently scraping by but won't manage when i add another GPU.
As chips are made with a smaller and smaller fab processes, the power usage generally goes down, plus a further emphasis on power efficiency. But at the same time, even 4 years ago 700w was more then most machines used, and a 500-600w psu would of fit your build just fine.
the psu's that are 700w+ are just for those insane people who always think larger number = better, and have more money then sense. I can't even think of a build that would draw anywhere near 1000W.
And side question, does anyone put any faith/stock in these fanless PSUs? Or do they just give off too much heat?
Sorry for all the questions but i'm just genuinely curious at this point.
yes you'd still be fine with 5-600W with any gtx 6*0 card, even a 690.
multiple high-end gpu's get very loud, one of the loudest components on any pc is the gpu, just based on the way most cooling setups are on them. and if you go with a sli/crossfire build you generally want "Slot" cooling versions of the card (there are 2 ways that gpu have their fans setup, either it's a single rotor style fan that draws in air, and then blows it across the heatsinks and out the back of the case, or it's multiple fans that just blow the air down onto the heatsinks and then into the case.) and the slot cooled versions are much louder.
a 1220W psu fan would be as loud as any other 120-140mm fan, so depends on the quality of the fan, and the rpm it runs at. The higher the rpm, and smaller a fan is, the louder it is. Plus other factors like number of blades, blade angle, and other features can affect the noise.
fanless psu are ok, they're engineered with the heat in mind, and run just fine. Modern psu don't really put off a lot of heat, and most have the fans off a lot of the time only to kick in occasionally under higher loads.
the reason they even design a 100W psu is because it's easier to design for a really high end, and then you just remove a few components for each smaller psu in the same family line, like the 900w will have a few less voltage regulators and such, and so on down the line. That way they get a psu they only make a few of for those people who enjoy spending to get the best of the best for no reason, and also get a psu at every 50-100w step down from that.
Well, those people need 2 850W PSUs, but your point stands.
The other issue is that it's a Cooler Master unit, and even some of their higher end units suck pretty hard.
Battle.net
A 660/660 successor and any given CPU would be fine on probably 450watts. 500-600 would see you well clear.
My multi GPU system is watercooled so it's actually pretty quiet when compared to even some single GPU rigs.
As others have said the PSU is no louder than most. THe loudest one i have is actually the bronze efficiency 850watt i have.
Dunno about you, but if I had a system like that, I'd be running this power supply.
Nope, higher.
Battle.net
Messaged him and he tells me its a 2gb 6950, near enough the 7870i was going to get in the bundle! Removed the gpu from the bundle and the price comes to a neat £680. Little under £ 200 c cheaper! I love that baker!