Finally stopped procrastinating and got my 2015 pin display done. Attended Prime for the 5th time. So this is every Prime pin + Staff pins + Core set and Polygon from all 4x PAXs. Put the poster together in photoshop and had it printed.
With my pin collection unlikely to change much until next PAX East I've gone ahead and set-up a couple 12x12 frames, one with PA stuff, one with non-PA stuff (including a few non-Pinny pins). May also do a third frame for my badges but for now I'm pretty happy with this.
Display time! Here's my setup, I've got Pinny pins and Disney stuff, along with anything I'd file under "Other", but this section is just for the Video game pins.
FTC: honk.
FTC: HONK.
PAX Prime 2014 Resistance Tournament Winner
+4
bravesaturnWorld's Best Entry Level EmployeeRegistered Userregular
InterestingMixA little bit of everything reallyMelbourne, AustraliaRegistered Userregular
@bravesaturn Those are beautiful. I was actually looking/thinking for how to do something similar this week with an Armadeaddon Comic panel for all those pins. Apologies if you have already covered/answered this, but do you cut all the internal card/pieces yourself or do you get it done?
bravesaturnWorld's Best Entry Level EmployeeRegistered Userregular
@InterestingMix Thank you! I actually take my pins into a store to have them frame it. I just show them where I want the pins, and they cut the mattes and everything else!
Working to get my pin collection organized, while leaving room for expansion. Frames are 16"x16" on Amazon, and can be pretty cheap if you watch prices like a hawk (I think I got them for $12 plus Prime shipping). Went to Pat Catan's for the Matte Board (the only blue and the closest to orange they had). Will try to post a follow-up once they are hung.
Items Needed:
Frame/Shadowbox
Base material - material to stab pins into (cork, foam core/foamboard, cardboard, etc.)
Adhesive (glue, duct tape, etc.)
Cloth or other covering if using cork or cardboard
Ruler/straightedge
Utility knife
Scissors
Graph paper
Quake Hold museum putty (if you have pins that like to move around, like Tycho Tot)
Step 2: Plan out your display based on your frame purchase
Measure the inside of your frame to determine what size you need to cut your base material down to. Next, measure the top visible dimensions of your frame (this may be the same as the previous dimensions, it entirely depends on the style of frame).
Find an old Amazon box that you still haven’t broken down for recycling, and cut 2 pieces of cardboard slightly larger than this. For my framing example, my dimensions are 13.5” x 5.5”. Technically, the viewable area inside is 5 11/16” for the width, but I am using ¼” graph paper, so it’s easier to chop it off at 5.5”. Use the graph paper to determine your design layout and spacing.
Step 3: Prep your frame and base material
For this frame, I’m using cork wall tile, cardboard, and cloth. The average pin post depth is 3/8”, and the cork tile I bought was slightly undersized in the depth department. Cut your base material to size using your straightedge and utility knife/razor blade. You CAN use scissors to cut cork, but the edge looks terrible. This isn’t as important if you’re covering it in fabric after. I prefer the cleanliness of the razor cut.
Sadly, I forgot to take pictures of this part of the process, but I made up for it by doing it all over again with a sample piece! You’re welcome. Because my cork tile wasn’t thick enough, I had to cut some cardboard to match the cork size and use trusty Elmer’s glue to stick them together.
Next, I was going to cover the cork with black fabric, from the clearance section of <insert your local fabric and craft store here>. IRON YOUR FABRIC!!! This is what separates us from the savages. Well, unless your fabric can’t be ironed. Be picky about what you buy, and make sure you can flatten that fabric out before attaching it to your base material. I used spray adhesive to affix the fabric to the cork, but honestly pulling it slightly taut and duct taping the back side of it also works if you want to be super lazy.
Now it’s time to secure the base material to the back of the frame. This might not be necessary, it really depends on if you are framing with spacers or not. The frame I bought had spacers already in it, but they were nailed and glued to the inside of the frame. Double-sided tape can work if it’s strong enough, otherwise glue + weights is the easiest option. You have to be careful with this, because it’s possible that if you mess this step up there isn’t really any turning back. Carefully place your prepped base material on the frame backing, and slide it in to place from the bottom, glass facing up. Once the backing is flush with the frame, carefully take the top of the frame back off, trying not to move the base material from its proper position. Mark the position of the corners using either a black sharpie or silver sharpie. Finally, apply glue to the backing and place the prepped base material back into position, and add weights. Old textbooks are great for this. I used my initial cardboard prep piece as a spacer between the books and the base material, to help with even distribution of the weight.
Step 4: Pin assembly
With the frame finally ready to receive pins, disassembly of our graph paper prep piece is necessary. If you had multiple stabbing attempts to get your spacing correct, make sure to circle the proper pin post hole, and label them for which pin went where.
Place the graph paper over your prepped base material, and carefully stab the post through part way. THIS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT IF YOU’RE USING FOAM CORE BECAUSE IT DOESN’T HOLD AS WELL AS CORK! Remove the pin, and set it aside. Do this with all of the pins in your display. Next, remove the graph paper. You should be able to see where the pin post punctured your prepped base material (easy to see on foam core, harder to see on cloth covered cork, but still possible). Use that pilot hole to place your pins for final display.
Step 5: Fin
Place the backing on the frame, close it up, take a picture and post it on the twitters, tag it #pinnyarcade, then post that link in the Displays thread for all to see! Why twitter? Because the forums will auto-embed tweets, and there are file size limitations to uploads here and display image sizes, and twitter is the easiest solution to this.
I have those folders as well! The basic ones, though, no year labelling and no case. My PA one is full though so I'm waiting until Christmas for my super secret I-already-asked-for-pin-books-so-I-better-get-them surprise. :biggrin:
The only thing I don't really like about them is that if you need to rearrange any pins the plastic page backing starts to look a little haggard. Maybe I should just be less terrible at pin organisation and design.
Posts
Truly inspiring, a masterpiece!!
"Damn fine pins!"
I think I'll eventually get a separate board for every year
They look great! I reckon I can see one of my @RocketOgre trades in there
"Damn fine pins!"
Pinny Pals Lanyard
2015 PAX Prime Omeganaut (I will forever hate Katamari)
What's up with the LE polygons in the middle (Aus, East and South)? Is it just the lighting? They have an orange tint to them.
https://www.pinnypals.com/pals/MarioManiac
My best guess is that it's a reflection of my orange Hi vis work shirt that I had on when I took the photo
https://www.pinnypals.com/pals/MarioManiac
2015 PAX Prime Omeganaut (I will forever hate Katamari)
Oh goodness the potato picture quality
PAX East Attendee since 2011
FTC: HONK.
PAX Prime 2014 Resistance Tournament Winner
2015 PAX Prime Omeganaut (I will forever hate Katamari)
...
Woosh!
...
My Pax Aus pins: just one to go.
Working to get my pin collection organized, while leaving room for expansion. Frames are 16"x16" on Amazon, and can be pretty cheap if you watch prices like a hawk (I think I got them for $12 plus Prime shipping). Went to Pat Catan's for the Matte Board (the only blue and the closest to orange they had). Will try to post a follow-up once they are hung.
I'm on Pinny Pals! - Find Me here!
I swear I'm not a completionist!
2013.....
2016.....
i think i have a problem.....
I disagree. You have an awesome. Keep it up!
Step 1: Shopping
Frame/Shadowbox
Base material - material to stab pins into (cork, foam core/foamboard, cardboard, etc.)
Adhesive (glue, duct tape, etc.)
Cloth or other covering if using cork or cardboard
Ruler/straightedge
Utility knife
Scissors
Graph paper
Quake Hold museum putty (if you have pins that like to move around, like Tycho Tot)
Step 2: Plan out your display based on your frame purchase
Find an old Amazon box that you still haven’t broken down for recycling, and cut 2 pieces of cardboard slightly larger than this. For my framing example, my dimensions are 13.5” x 5.5”. Technically, the viewable area inside is 5 11/16” for the width, but I am using ¼” graph paper, so it’s easier to chop it off at 5.5”. Use the graph paper to determine your design layout and spacing.
Step 3: Prep your frame and base material
Sadly, I forgot to take pictures of this part of the process, but I made up for it by doing it all over again with a sample piece! You’re welcome. Because my cork tile wasn’t thick enough, I had to cut some cardboard to match the cork size and use trusty Elmer’s glue to stick them together.
Next, I was going to cover the cork with black fabric, from the clearance section of <insert your local fabric and craft store here>. IRON YOUR FABRIC!!! This is what separates us from the savages. Well, unless your fabric can’t be ironed. Be picky about what you buy, and make sure you can flatten that fabric out before attaching it to your base material. I used spray adhesive to affix the fabric to the cork, but honestly pulling it slightly taut and duct taping the back side of it also works if you want to be super lazy.
Now it’s time to secure the base material to the back of the frame. This might not be necessary, it really depends on if you are framing with spacers or not. The frame I bought had spacers already in it, but they were nailed and glued to the inside of the frame. Double-sided tape can work if it’s strong enough, otherwise glue + weights is the easiest option. You have to be careful with this, because it’s possible that if you mess this step up there isn’t really any turning back. Carefully place your prepped base material on the frame backing, and slide it in to place from the bottom, glass facing up. Once the backing is flush with the frame, carefully take the top of the frame back off, trying not to move the base material from its proper position. Mark the position of the corners using either a black sharpie or silver sharpie. Finally, apply glue to the backing and place the prepped base material back into position, and add weights. Old textbooks are great for this. I used my initial cardboard prep piece as a spacer between the books and the base material, to help with even distribution of the weight.
Step 4: Pin assembly
Place the graph paper over your prepped base material, and carefully stab the post through part way. THIS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT IF YOU’RE USING FOAM CORE BECAUSE IT DOESN’T HOLD AS WELL AS CORK! Remove the pin, and set it aside. Do this with all of the pins in your display. Next, remove the graph paper. You should be able to see where the pin post punctured your prepped base material (easy to see on foam core, harder to see on cloth covered cork, but still possible). Use that pilot hole to place your pins for final display.
Step 5: Fin
Place the backing on the frame, close it up, take a picture and post it on the twitters, tag it #pinnyarcade, then post that link in the Displays thread for all to see! Why twitter? Because the forums will auto-embed tweets, and there are file size limitations to uploads here and display image sizes, and twitter is the easiest solution to this.
STILL TO COME IN A FUTURE EDIT: COST BREAKDOWN OF MATERIALS ABOVE, SHAMELESSLY STOLEN FROM MY PART OF THE WEST 2016 PANEL
2015 PAX Prime Omeganaut (I will forever hate Katamari)
THIS ONE GIRL...
Time to t-t-t-t-trade! ⭐️http://www.pinnypals.com/pals/Renfamous⭐️
2015 PAX Prime Omeganaut (I will forever hate Katamari)
THIS ONE GIRL...
Time to t-t-t-t-trade! ⭐️http://www.pinnypals.com/pals/Renfamous⭐️
...
Woosh!
...
"Damn fine pins!"
(Getting scared about how much it's likely to cost
...
Woosh!
...
Was at Ikea and saw this (didn't grab one yet though) http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/00287417/
Inside depth: 5.5 cm
Inside width: 24.5 cm
Inside height: 41.5 cm
Width: 30 cm
Depth: 8 cm
Height: 47 cm
Max. load: 1 kg
It's compact and relatively cheap @ $19.99, might be worth a look next time your at one.
"Damn fine pins!"
I get them from the site https://www.safepub.com/
https://www.safepub.com/sections/pin-collecting-display/pin-albums/p/compact-album-with-5-pin-pages#tabs-1
...
Woosh!
...
The only thing I don't really like about them is that if you need to rearrange any pins the plastic page backing starts to look a little haggard. Maybe I should just be less terrible at pin organisation and design.
[/br]https://www.pinnypals.com/pals/misskass
The brown one on the left is for non-pinny pins
Ah! I was wondering about that one 8-)
"Damn fine pins!"