nissan 370z base model sticker price is now $30,000 CDN. I swear it used to be like, ten thousand more.
Its basically the same price, maybe a little more, that I paid for my Scion FRS.
I'm not buying a new car or getting rid of my FRS. But it definitely piques my interest a little.
I'm pretty sure it used to be, yeah.
I was in a Nissan dealership in January and they had a Touring Sport Coupe in the showroom and were advertising it based on "super cheap" bi-weekly payments for only 8 years!
I suspect, maybe, that there's not that great of a market for new 370Zs in Canada. Or the market that does exist is still waiting to finish high school (where are the flippant tags? I'm just poking fun).
Oh God, I shouldn't have looked up people's experiences driving FRS/BRZ/370Z in the winter. Knowing that so many of them don't change their tires makes me never want to go on the road in winter again.
Bear is Driving on
+1
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
nissan 370z base model sticker price is now $30,000 CDN. I swear it used to be like, ten thousand more.
Its basically the same price, maybe a little more, that I paid for my Scion FRS.
I'm not buying a new car or getting rid of my FRS. But it definitely piques my interest a little.
Yeah they used to be almost $70k in Australialand, then after the BRZ/FRS came out they dropped down to about $60k. At the moment they're back up to around $64k.
Also I drove my FRS all winter long. I have decent winter tires. Only once did I have to submit and drive my dads truck to work - when there was about 15 inches of unplowed snow on the roads.
Depending on where in Canada you actually are, it definitely might only be a "summer" car.
i am trying to run out the clock on my current car loan so I can step up to a harder sportscar. i tried shopping the 40-50k range and there's just nothing. The closest thing is the M235 but there are a couple of aspects of it that I don't like. The 4C is supposed to be 55k but the "regular ones" haven't hit the US yet and I don't know what the dealer markup will be like.
so I am just biding my time and waiting until I can start doing some legit car shopping. Probably another year. The candidates are
M4
Cayman S
F-Type S coupe (the V6, can't really afford the V8)
SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
edited May 2015
Sat in an M4 for the first time yesterday. It was gorgeous except it's in that metallic piss color that they're pushing this generation. Something like 60% of the M4s near me are in that color. Baffling.
They also had an M6 convertible and an i8 in there as well. My wife's on board with the i8 since it's a hybrid.
Car overheated.
Car goes to shop.
Shop says "it's your radiator, and you'll need a new fuel filter too. That'll be $1500"
I say "Nay, nay..give it to me and I shall fix it myself."
$250 later and a saturday later, it is fixed.
Car is still throwing a check engine light.
Silly car.
Shop says, "uh, that code means there is antifreeze in the engine. When it overheated it must have cracked the block. We can fix it, but it'll be 5-7k."
I say, "FUCK"
Fin.
This has been a DrZiplock Joint.
...and now I'm in NYC nowhere near my car unable to ascertain the whole of the situation, but I can't really sell a car with a cracked engine block. So I have an 04 WRX with 146k miles that is on its way to becoming a paperweight.
"zip, i dunno what it is about you, but there's something very cat-like about your face. i can't really place it. you'd make a good mountain lion." Hail, Satan!Satans Post
0
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
When you get back spend $15 on an OBDII reader and check the code yourself and see what it says. That shop already sounds shady quoting $1500 for a radiator and fuel filter. I would not trust them to read that code right.
SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
Yeah- I've had an ODB reader in my car forever. It comes in handy and reduces anxiety- "Oh bank 1 is running a little lean? Whatever, I'll clear the code and it probably won't come back."
If it's something more serious then you can put thought into it, but at least you know what you're dealing with. A cheap reader + a smartphone for googling and you're good to go.
Also, an overheat most likely wouldn't crack your block. Its possible that it cracked a head or compromised a head gasket. That could lead to coolant in the oil, if that ends up being the case.
I mean, it's possible the block cracked, but it's much less likely than a head.
Also I drove my FRS all winter long. I have decent winter tires. Only once did I have to submit and drive my dads truck to work - when there was about 15 inches of unplowed snow on the roads.
Depending on where in Canada you actually are, it definitely might only be a "summer" car.
Oh yeah, with winters I'm sure it's fine.
The most common question I get about the speed3 is how it drives in winter. With proper tires it drives perfectly fine.
But with summer tires in sub-zero weather you can't even breath on the throttle without the traction control going insane. I got caught in a late October snow storm once before I had my tires changed and could barely accelerate at all. It was easily the most terrifying drive of my life.
I get a bit excited when I hear people saying they don't need winter tires.
+1
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Car overheated.
Car goes to shop.
Shop says "it's your radiator, and you'll need a new fuel filter too. That'll be $1500"
I say "Nay, nay..give it to me and I shall fix it myself."
$250 later and a saturday later, it is fixed.
Car is still throwing a check engine light.
Silly car.
Shop says, "uh, that code means there is antifreeze in the engine. When it overheated it must have cracked the block. We can fix it, but it'll be 5-7k."
I say, "FUCK"
Fin.
This has been a DrZiplock Joint.
...and now I'm in NYC nowhere near my car unable to ascertain the whole of the situation, but I can't really sell a car with a cracked engine block. So I have an 04 WRX with 146k miles that is on its way to becoming a paperweight.
Nooooope.
Cracked the block? I highly doubt that. Maybe, if you're unlucky, a warped head. More likely a busted head gasket.
$5-7k my left motherfucking testicle, tell that dealer to go fuck themselves. Get an OBDII code reader, see what the code actually is. If it is a thing you are not sure of repairing yourself, take your car to a local garage. Dealerships are dirty fucking thieves, and I say this as a technician that has worked at multiple dealerships.
When you get back spend $15 on an OBDII reader and check the code yourself and see what it says. That shop already sounds shady quoting $1500 for a radiator and fuel filter. I would not trust them to read that code right.
Radiators cost $Texas these days. And it's bullshit! You can often buy an all-aluminium aftermarket radiator of much higher quality than the stock nippondenso unit for the same price or less, and they bolt straight in.
Also, there doesn't appear to be any diagnostic code, even among the Subaru proprietary extensions, that would even remotely indicate "antifreeze in the engine." There are a lot of codes that a cracked block might cause, but all of them have much, much simpler first explanations. The way you'd determine if coolant got in the oil would be the old-fashioned way, by visual or chemical inspection of oil and/or coolant. And even *then*, you'd assume (as chrishallet83 points out) something much simpler: a blown head gasket. So you'd test for the simple(r) things like that, *then* you'd come up with a plan.
Fuck that shop: they're either incompetent idiots or trying to screw you.
When you get back spend $15 on an OBDII reader and check the code yourself and see what it says. That shop already sounds shady quoting $1500 for a radiator and fuel filter. I would not trust them to read that code right.
Radiators cost $Texas these days. And it's bullshit! You can often buy an all-aluminium aftermarket radiator of much higher quality than the stock nippondenso unit for the same price or less, and they bolt straight in.
I've never had a shop do a radiator, I've always done them myself for that very reason. For my Cherokee it took me longer to remove the trim than it did to actually change the radiator.
Good to know they charge $texas.
Ohhh I got a good dealership story though! Took the Hyundai in to get serviced at the dealership, and sometime in the last few weeks a little chrome trim bit has fallen off under one of the windows. It appears to have either clipped in to the plastic or was attached with adhesive. Either way I figure, dirt cheap fix, get a new one. NOPE. $200 for an all new window and frame if I want that chrome bit back.
Bullshit says I. I bet I can find that piece online or at a junkyard for significantly less.
an overvolt to the headlights is probably the culprit
Or a short to earth.
0
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited May 2015
Are you touching the bulbs with bare fingers or with gloves? I've always been told, and had first hand experience that the oils on your fingers will create hot spots on the bulb, making it burn out much faster. I went through a couple pairs on my old mazda within 20000 miles before my local mechanic told me to wear gloves when I asked him about it.
You car folks with a lot more experience than me, please feel free to debunk if I'm wrong.
Are you touching the bulbs with bare fingers or with gloves? I've always been told, and had first hand experience that the oils on your fingers will create hot spots on the bulb, making it burn out much faster. I went through a couple pairs on my old mazda within 20000 miles before my local mechanic told me to wear gloves when I asked him about it.
You car folks with a lot more experience than me, please feel free to debunk if I'm wrong.
The high-beam halogen globes, yeah. Oils from your fingers trap heat and make hotspots which leads to the glass cracking.
Low beam though? Unless you have those 2-in-1 globes, shouldn't be a problem.
0
Raijin QuickfootI'm your Huckleberry YOU'RE NO DAISYRegistered User, ClubPAregular
Are you touching the bulbs with bare fingers or with gloves? I've always been told, and had first hand experience that the oils on your fingers will create hot spots on the bulb, making it burn out much faster. I went through a couple pairs on my old mazda within 20000 miles before my local mechanic told me to wear gloves when I asked him about it.
You car folks with a lot more experience than me, please feel free to debunk if I'm wrong.
The high-beam halogen globes, yeah. Oils from your fingers trap heat and make hotspots which leads to the glass cracking.
Low beam though? Unless you have those 2-in-1 globes, shouldn't be a problem.
Gotcha. My Mazda Proteges was a 2 in 1 bulb. Good to know! Headlight problems are the worst, because when they break is probably when you need them the most.
@DrZiplock I can almost guarantee that all you have is a head gasket issue, which should only be 2k at most. Cracking a subaru block is really hard. Ditch your mechanic like yesterday.
Ok, I should clarify a few things...though I appreciate all the input.
The conversation was not quoted verbatim. There was also talk of it being a head gasket, but I was on a train pulling into Penn Station when we were talking and that is why I'd like to get back to VA to talk with them about it. Also, I never said it was a dealership, this is a mechanic shop a few blocks from where I live. I've been taking my cars there for the entirety of the time I've lived in VA. I do trust them.
However, because of the neighborhood in which I live, their hourly rate is $165 an hour. And that explains why the radiator replacement was what it was...including parts. Also the price of any any other work. Welcome to DC.
I have an ODBII waiting for me at home so that I can check the code as well.
In the meantime, I'm preparing for the purchase of something new to me just in case.
"zip, i dunno what it is about you, but there's something very cat-like about your face. i can't really place it. you'd make a good mountain lion." Hail, Satan!Satans Post
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Ok, I should clarify a few things...though I appreciate all the input.
The conversation was not quoted verbatim. There was also talk of it being a head gasket, but I was on a train pulling into Penn Station when we were talking and that is why I'd like to get back to VA to talk with them about it. Also, I never said it was a dealership, this is a mechanic shop a few blocks from where I live. I've been taking my cars there for the entirety of the time I've lived in VA. I do trust them.
However, because of the neighborhood in which I live, their hourly rate is $165 an hour. And that explains why the radiator replacement was what it was...including parts. Also the price of any any other work. Welcome to DC.
I have an ODBII waiting for me at home so that I can check the code as well.
In the meantime, I'm preparing for the purchase of something new to me just in case.
$165/hour?
Isn't that about $100/hour more than most garages over there? Shit, that's a high rate here in Australia, where dealership techs get paid $35-40/hour...
I had a 911 GTS come into my station this morning. I'm about to blasphem, I do not like how most Porsches sound. 911 most of all. Where my station is placed, there is a light and a long stretch of road with nothing that might slow people down. There is a Porsche that likes to launch there and it just sounds like clatter.
I had a 911 GTS come into my station this morning. I'm about to blasphem, I do not like how most Porsches sound. 911 most of all. Where my station is placed, there is a light and a long stretch of road with nothing that might slow people down. There is a Porsche that likes to launch there and it just sounds like clatter.
Posts
I'm pretty sure it used to be, yeah.
I was in a Nissan dealership in January and they had a Touring Sport Coupe in the showroom and were advertising it based on "super cheap" bi-weekly payments for only 8 years!
I suspect, maybe, that there's not that great of a market for new 370Zs in Canada. Or the market that does exist is still waiting to finish high school (where are the flippant tags? I'm just poking fun).
It just struck me as very strange and irresponsible to try and get someone to buy a car like that and finance it over 8 goddamn years.
Yeah they used to be almost $70k in Australialand, then after the BRZ/FRS came out they dropped down to about $60k. At the moment they're back up to around $64k.
Also I drove my FRS all winter long. I have decent winter tires. Only once did I have to submit and drive my dads truck to work - when there was about 15 inches of unplowed snow on the roads.
Depending on where in Canada you actually are, it definitely might only be a "summer" car.
so I am just biding my time and waiting until I can start doing some legit car shopping. Probably another year. The candidates are
M4
Cayman S
F-Type S coupe (the V6, can't really afford the V8)
They also had an M6 convertible and an i8 in there as well. My wife's on board with the i8 since it's a hybrid.
Car goes to shop.
Shop says "it's your radiator, and you'll need a new fuel filter too. That'll be $1500"
I say "Nay, nay..give it to me and I shall fix it myself."
$250 later and a saturday later, it is fixed.
Car is still throwing a check engine light.
Silly car.
Shop says, "uh, that code means there is antifreeze in the engine. When it overheated it must have cracked the block. We can fix it, but it'll be 5-7k."
I say, "FUCK"
Fin.
This has been a DrZiplock Joint.
...and now I'm in NYC nowhere near my car unable to ascertain the whole of the situation, but I can't really sell a car with a cracked engine block. So I have an 04 WRX with 146k miles that is on its way to becoming a paperweight.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
If it's something more serious then you can put thought into it, but at least you know what you're dealing with. A cheap reader + a smartphone for googling and you're good to go.
I mean, it's possible the block cracked, but it's much less likely than a head.
Oh yeah, with winters I'm sure it's fine.
The most common question I get about the speed3 is how it drives in winter. With proper tires it drives perfectly fine.
But with summer tires in sub-zero weather you can't even breath on the throttle without the traction control going insane. I got caught in a late October snow storm once before I had my tires changed and could barely accelerate at all. It was easily the most terrifying drive of my life.
I get a bit excited when I hear people saying they don't need winter tires.
Nooooope.
Cracked the block? I highly doubt that. Maybe, if you're unlucky, a warped head. More likely a busted head gasket.
$5-7k my left motherfucking testicle, tell that dealer to go fuck themselves. Get an OBDII code reader, see what the code actually is. If it is a thing you are not sure of repairing yourself, take your car to a local garage. Dealerships are dirty fucking thieves, and I say this as a technician that has worked at multiple dealerships.
Radiators cost $Texas these days. And it's bullshit! You can often buy an all-aluminium aftermarket radiator of much higher quality than the stock nippondenso unit for the same price or less, and they bolt straight in.
Fuck that shop: they're either incompetent idiots or trying to screw you.
You and me both, brother. You and me both.
I've never had a shop do a radiator, I've always done them myself for that very reason. For my Cherokee it took me longer to remove the trim than it did to actually change the radiator.
Good to know they charge $texas.
Ohhh I got a good dealership story though! Took the Hyundai in to get serviced at the dealership, and sometime in the last few weeks a little chrome trim bit has fallen off under one of the windows. It appears to have either clipped in to the plastic or was attached with adhesive. Either way I figure, dirt cheap fix, get a new one. NOPE. $200 for an all new window and frame if I want that chrome bit back.
Bullshit says I. I bet I can find that piece online or at a junkyard for significantly less.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Only the low beams, never the high beams.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1JI9WWSRW1YJI
That ain't right. Do you have a multimeter?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1JI9WWSRW1YJI
Or a short to earth.
You car folks with a lot more experience than me, please feel free to debunk if I'm wrong.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The high-beam halogen globes, yeah. Oils from your fingers trap heat and make hotspots which leads to the glass cracking.
Low beam though? Unless you have those 2-in-1 globes, shouldn't be a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1JI9WWSRW1YJI
Gotcha. My Mazda Proteges was a 2 in 1 bulb. Good to know! Headlight problems are the worst, because when they break is probably when you need them the most.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Torques
I never finish anyth
The conversation was not quoted verbatim. There was also talk of it being a head gasket, but I was on a train pulling into Penn Station when we were talking and that is why I'd like to get back to VA to talk with them about it. Also, I never said it was a dealership, this is a mechanic shop a few blocks from where I live. I've been taking my cars there for the entirety of the time I've lived in VA. I do trust them.
However, because of the neighborhood in which I live, their hourly rate is $165 an hour. And that explains why the radiator replacement was what it was...including parts. Also the price of any any other work. Welcome to DC.
I have an ODBII waiting for me at home so that I can check the code as well.
In the meantime, I'm preparing for the purchase of something new to me just in case.
$165/hour?
Isn't that about $100/hour more than most garages over there? Shit, that's a high rate here in Australia, where dealership techs get paid $35-40/hour...
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
you and me
we must join forces. the 911 is a bad sound