Yeah the 970 won't really drop in price until the next iteration comes out. The only option is to wait for a promotion where they offer a free game with purchase. I managed to snag Far Cry 4 for free with my 970.
Except the 970 is a lot more performance for it's price than the 770 or 470 were. (I don't know about the others, I wasn't paying attention)
Get the 850 Evo instead. Unless that $10 is really too much. Quicker, don't need to patch the firmware to fix a performance bug (so far...).
No interest in overclocking?
Not really. I know it's only another 50 bucks, but I'm paranoid about putting a liquid cooler in the computer. That case is too small for a tower cooler.
Get the 850 Evo instead. Unless that $10 is really too much. Quicker, don't need to patch the firmware to fix a performance bug (so far...).
No interest in overclocking?
Not really. I know it's only another 50 bucks, but I'm paranoid about putting a liquid cooler in the computer. That case is too small for a tower cooler.
Installing my all-in-one cooler was SUPER easy. The only part that is kiiiind of a pain in starting the screws through the fans into the rad (much easier if you have friends, or are Goro of Mortal Kombat fame).
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Big D'oh! on my part: when, after I'd returned the PC from the repair shop, it worked fine for two days, I decided to give the Asus EZ-Wizard a whirl with a conservative OC. The result? The system's back to its former shenanigans; it won't post, though weirdly the beeps indicate that the problem is the video card. (The PC speaker is something the PC doc put in for free; my impression is that the computer is doing the same as it did before I brought it there, while (incorrectly?) claiming that the problem is the Geforce 980.)
Do I understand correctly that my best bet for now is to flash the CMOS and reset the BIOS?
"Nothing is gonna save us forever but a lot of things can save us today." - Night in the Woods
0
AkimboEGMr. FancypantsWears very fine pants indeedRegistered Userregular
Hello computer build thread!
I'm considering getting more RAM for my PC.
As far as I know, my Motherboard can handle up to 2100MHz, but the CPU can only do up to 1066MHz.
What I don't know is the relationship between two triple-channel kits.
Does it have to be the same kit?
Can the kits differ in frequency, timing, voltage, manufacturer, total memory (so, memory per stick), etc?
Will it have any effect if I buy a higher MHz kit and have it running on the lower 1066MHz?
*Can't find specs anywhere online, but it's a triple-channel kit of 2GB cards at 1333MHz, currently running at 1066MHz due to CPU limitations.
Give me a kiss to build a dream on; And my imagination will thrive upon that kiss; Sweetheart, I ask no more than this; A kiss to build a dream on
Big D'oh! on my part: when, after I'd returned the PC from the repair shop, it worked fine for two days, I decided to give the Asus EZ-Wizard a whirl with a conservative OC. The result? The system's back to its former shenanigans; it won't post, though weirdly the beeps indicate that the problem is the video card. (The PC speaker is something the PC doc put in for free; my impression is that the computer is doing the same as it did before I brought it there, while (incorrectly?) claiming that the problem is the Geforce 980.)
Do I understand correctly that my best bet for now is to flash the CMOS and reset the BIOS?
As far as I know, my Motherboard can handle up to 2100MHz, but the CPU can only do up to 1066MHz.
What I don't know is the relationship between two triple-channel kits.
Does it have to be the same kit?
Can the kits differ in frequency, timing, voltage, manufacturer, total memory (so, memory per stick), etc?
Will it have any effect if I buy a higher MHz kit and have it running on the lower 1066MHz?
*Can't find specs anywhere online, but it's a triple-channel kit of 2GB cards at 1333MHz, currently running at 1066MHz due to CPU limitations.
Don't differ in volts or (probably) timings. Frequency will scale to the slowest (so will timing in theory...). Size 'should' match but probably will be fine regardless. Same with manufacturer. Lower speed you won't notice. You do want to try and get another triple kit set, though. Stupid triple channel memory.
Xeddicus on
"For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
+2
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I kind of doubt a 960ti will be better price/performance than a 970. The 970 is kind of amazing and a 960Ti would have to be really cheap to compete.
Agreed. The only possible reason I see to hold out is if you are really worried about VRAM and want to see if there will be a 6GB or 8GB 980 or something.
Judging from past generations the x60ti is usually about 80% the performance of a x70, maybe less vram, and about $50-100 cheaper. So it could work out to be a better overall value if your not caring about things like 4k resolutions.
Well, I'm using this on my TV, so I don't really care about 4K.
What really got me thinking this is playing shadow of Mordor, and then looking at the specs for Evolve...the minimum GPU is I think a GTX 560, which compares almost equally to my 470.
Why I expected this thread to talk me OUT of upgrading my rig, I'll never know. Thanks for the opinions-
I kind of doubt a 960ti will be better price/performance than a 970. The 970 is kind of amazing and a 960Ti would have to be really cheap to compete.
Agreed. The only possible reason I see to hold out is if you are really worried about VRAM and want to see if there will be a 6GB or 8GB 980 or something.
Judging from past generations the x60ti is usually about 80% the performance of a x70, maybe less vram, and about $50-100 cheaper. So it could work out to be a better overall value if your not caring about things like 4k resolutions.
Well, I'm using this on my TV, so I don't really care about 4K.
What really got me thinking this is playing shadow of Mordor, and then looking at the specs for Evolve...the minimum GPU is I think a GTX 560, which compares almost equally to my 470.
Why I expected this thread to talk me OUT of upgrading my rig, I'll never know. Thanks for the opinions-
SLI a pair of Titan Blacks, NOW.
Psssht. Two days late, them shits got ordered on Monday.
In all seriousness though, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on a 970 relatively soon. Seems like the MSI is my best bet for performance to quiet ratio, unless I hear any different.
XBL: Jhnny Cash PSN: Jhnny_Cash Steam ID: http://steamcommunity.com/id/hypephb 3DS: 0619-4582-9630 Nintendo Network ID: DBrickashaw
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
Awesome, I am becoming an adult and having TWO monitors and the second one I got just realized only has DVI-D and not HDMI and I was like "Awww, I hope that doesn't matter!"
I am in the business of saving lives.
0
Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
I'm pretty sure HDMI has audio thru while DVI doesn't.
I'm pretty sure HDMI has audio thru while DVI doesn't.
it does, hdmi can carry other data on it as well, but for just the video data portions DVI and HDMI were designed to be interchangeable with just a pin adapter.
-I CAN pair other devices to my PC, no problem. Phone and headset paired no problem. So my Bluetooth is fine.
-I CANNOT pair the PS4 controller to another PC; same issues on both machines. I don't think the controller's faulty though, because...
-I followed that post @Dave_T linked to and it got my farther than I'd previously got, but still not all of the way there. A couple people on that thread are having the exact same problem I am, which is sort of comforting (I'm not alone), yet a little infuriating (no one knows how to fix it).
So. At this point I'll probably fiddle with it for another day or two before giving up and returning the controller to Best Buy. Seems like if I had Win8 it wouldn't be a problem, but 7 for whatever reason just doesn't play nice with it; I imagine whenever WinX comes out and I upgrade to that I'll give this all another go. In the meantime I'll just pine for the days of a touchpad controller and go back to using my 360 pad like a sad, last-gen hobo...
For reasons I didn't look into, certain bluetooth dongles seem to pair happily with DS3s and others do not. When I got the Scarlett Crush drivers to work on one bluetooth dongle I had to install some custom drivers. Drivers which rendered the dongle useless for anything else. I'm not sure if any such drivers exist for DS4, or if the same ones would work?
If I get round to buying a new console at some point, this is actually quite likely to be a defining factor. I.e. Spending over a hundred pounds on controllers that only work on a single system simply due to the greed of the manufacturer.
The other place DVI -vs- DVI+HDMI+etc makes a difference is with the cheap Korean monitors; the overclockable ones are the ones with _only_ DVI-D connectors. That's because for those, they (roughly speaking) just wire the connector straight up to the pixels, the internals of the monitor "run on DVI-D" and there's nothing else in the middle -- which means you can overclock the display by pushing more pixels more rapidly. The ones with HDMI (etc) connectors have actual smarts in there to convert between formats, but those smarts aren't good enough to be overclockable. Something like that, though I suspect the details are more complicated.
So recently I plugged my top fan back in on my Antec 300 since it sits in a corner and I wanted a better way to exhaust hot air. Problem is, I'm picky. And now I'm heavily considering swapping the fan out for a Scythe S-Flex I have sitting in a drawer. Plus, this gives me a reason to crack open the case again, and move the SSDs behind the mobo tray; or somewhere else less obtrusive where I can tuck cables.
-I CAN pair other devices to my PC, no problem. Phone and headset paired no problem. So my Bluetooth is fine.
-I CANNOT pair the PS4 controller to another PC; same issues on both machines. I don't think the controller's faulty though, because...
-I followed that post @Dave_T linked to and it got my farther than I'd previously got, but still not all of the way there. A couple people on that thread are having the exact same problem I am, which is sort of comforting (I'm not alone), yet a little infuriating (no one knows how to fix it).
So. At this point I'll probably fiddle with it for another day or two before giving up and returning the controller to Best Buy. Seems like if I had Win8 it wouldn't be a problem, but 7 for whatever reason just doesn't play nice with it; I imagine whenever WinX comes out and I upgrade to that I'll give this all another go. In the meantime I'll just pine for the days of a touchpad controller and go back to using my 360 pad like a sad, last-gen hobo...
For reasons I didn't look into, certain bluetooth dongles seem to pair happily with DS3s and others do not. When I got the Scarlett Crush drivers to work on one bluetooth dongle I had to install some custom drivers. Drivers which rendered the dongle useless for anything else. I'm not sure if any such drivers exist for DS4, or if the same ones would work?
If I get round to buying a new console at some point, this is actually quite likely to be a defining factor. I.e. Spending over a hundred pounds on controllers that only work on a single system simply due to the greed of the manufacturer.
Y'know, I just said fuck it and took back the controller to Best Buy (had to return it last weekend or else I would've been out of my return window), but I posted in another thread and got a response. For what it's worth:
Seems like that might work. For future reference, I mean. I agree, though, it blows my mind that it's so difficult to connect. I really don't understand why that's the case. So frustrating.
XBL: Jhnny Cash PSN: Jhnny_Cash Steam ID: http://steamcommunity.com/id/hypephb 3DS: 0619-4582-9630 Nintendo Network ID: DBrickashaw
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
I was under the impression that the PS4 controller was actually supposed to connect to your PC much simpler than the PS3 and was actually part of the intended use on Sony's end
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
edited January 2015
The Dualshock 4, straight-up, functions a driverless HID controller when plugged into a PC via usb. That actually makes it more "standards compliant" than a 360/One controller, which require special handling for their brand of proprietary bs.
Of course, since a whole bunch games these days don't even acknowledge that DirectInput is a thing anymore, that's almost moot.
Right, because Sony doesn't fuck around and use proprietary bullshit even when there is an established open architecture already in place.....
I remember hearing that they promised something like that but now that I have actually looked it up, it seems that Sony is full of shit.
Oh sweet, trusting Ed. I was once like you. Full of hope, optimism, and stars in my eyes. I bought a PS4 controller and plugged it in via USB; all was right with the world. Well, I thought, the controller has Bluetooth, my computer has Bluetooth, this should be easy, right?
It was....not.
XBL: Jhnny Cash PSN: Jhnny_Cash Steam ID: http://steamcommunity.com/id/hypephb 3DS: 0619-4582-9630 Nintendo Network ID: DBrickashaw
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
0
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Right, because Sony doesn't fuck around and use proprietary bullshit even when there is an established open architecture already in place.....
I remember hearing that they promised something like that but now that I have actually looked it up, it seems that Sony is full of shit.
Oh sweet, trusting Ed. I was once like you. Full of hope, optimism, and stars in my eyes. I bought a PS4 controller and plugged it in via USB; all was right with the world. Well, I thought, the controller has Bluetooth, my computer has Bluetooth, this should be easy, right?
It was....not.
:hydra:
Damn those missing reactions...
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
My hubby is trying to install windows 7 on his new computer and has run into an error: "Windows setup could not configure Windows to run on this computer's hardware". It happens at the end of the installation and has him stuck. Googling for a solution I found this
At "windows setup cannot configure windows for this hardware"
Shift F10
Type -
Cd..
Cd..
Cd c:\windows\system32\oobe
Msoobe
This should force it to finalize and create computer name, password, time, etc.
However Shift F10 doesn't work, it does nothing. So he hasn't been able to try that fix.
Yes, the SSD the is the only hard drive. No USBs or other drives other then the dvd player plugged in atm but a second HD will be added later. And it is 64 bit windows. After googling some more I found this discussing the problem. All of it is pretty much way over our heads though. --> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/255180-32-install-windows-raid0-gigabyte-x58a-ud3r
Apparently it might be a SATA driver problem that might be solvable by doing this
Here’s how to install Windows 7 using unsigned drivers:
1. Copy your unsigned driver to FDD, USB stick or other media (you will probably need only one .inf and a .sys file).
2. Start Windows 7 setup. At this point, if you choose ‘Install’, your HDD controllers won’t be detected if not supported by W7. So don’t do that.
3. Click ‘Repair’.
4. Wait for the pseudo-scanner to finish.
5. Click load driver.
6. Point to your unsigned driver (the .inf file) you previously copied to FDD/USB stick.
7. Wait again for the pseudo-scanner to finish.
8. Click the ‘x’ in the corner to close the repair mode.
9. Click ‘Install’ to start the installation.
10. Now your SCSI controllers and SCSI HDDs will be detected and there will be no warning of unsigned drivers.
That link is for a raid problem, "shouldn't" apply to your problem. Are you sure the installation media isn't bad? Just a guess.
Edit what is he using to install, exactly? MS says it happens when "You are installing by using Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2 RTM media.". Of course, it could be happening with anything really... you probably saw this I suppose, though, being the first google result...
Xeddicus on
"For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
That link is for a raid problem, "shouldn't" apply to your problem. Are you sure the installation media isn't bad? Just a guess.
Edit what is he using to install, exactly? MS says it happens when "You are installing by using Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2 RTM media.". Of course, it could be happening with anything really... you probably saw this I suppose, though, being the first google result...
Yeah I saw that link and we would love to try it but his computer is currently stuck in a loop with Windows mostly installed and we don't know how to start over from scratch. He starts his computer, windows load screen, windows setup could not complete the installation error, reboot and same thing all over again.
That link is for a raid problem, "shouldn't" apply to your problem. Are you sure the installation media isn't bad? Just a guess.
Edit what is he using to install, exactly? MS says it happens when "You are installing by using Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2 RTM media.". Of course, it could be happening with anything really... you probably saw this I suppose, though, being the first google result...
Yeah I saw that link and we would love to try it but his computer is currently stuck in a loop with Windows mostly installed and we don't know how to start over from scratch. He starts his computer, windows load screen, windows setup could not complete the installation error, reboot and same thing all over again.
Check out the motherboard manual - see what key you have to press to get into the BIOS (usually DEL).
Turn the computer completely off - just hold the power button until it shuts off. Turn it back on and mash that DELETE key while it's turning on. From there you can do things like change the boot order (so you can boot off your install media again) or change your hard drive settings.
Monoprice (....sell displays...) now they're taking it a step further with a 30" IPS display that they're saying they'll guarantee will run at 120Hz 2560x1600.
...
There's no specific release date yet, but Monoprice says the display should be out in the next couple of months.
No price info yet, but that could be an interesting option if you can wait a bit and want to avoid the gamble of getting one from Korea.
+1
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Monoprice (....sell displays...) now they're taking it a step further with a 30" IPS display that they're saying they'll guarantee will run at 120Hz 2560x1600.
...
There's no specific release date yet, but Monoprice says the display should be out in the next couple of months.
No price info yet, but that could be an interesting option if you can wait a bit and want to avoid the gamble of getting one from Korea.
Bad ass, not sure I want to see the price on them though...
Who am I kidding, yes I do.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Posts
Except the 970 is a lot more performance for it's price than the 770 or 470 were. (I don't know about the others, I wasn't paying attention)
Not really. I know it's only another 50 bucks, but I'm paranoid about putting a liquid cooler in the computer. That case is too small for a tower cooler.
I'm already saving my money for that upgrade. Hell I might as well go all the way upgrade everything for the VR revolution.
Installing my all-in-one cooler was SUPER easy. The only part that is kiiiind of a pain in starting the screws through the fans into the rad (much easier if you have friends, or are Goro of Mortal Kombat fame).
Do I understand correctly that my best bet for now is to flash the CMOS and reset the BIOS?
"Nothing is gonna save us forever but a lot of things can save us today." - Night in the Woods
I'm considering getting more RAM for my PC.
It's an Intel i7 940 on a Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 with three sticks of Corsair CM3X2G1333C9*.
As far as I know, my Motherboard can handle up to 2100MHz, but the CPU can only do up to 1066MHz.
What I don't know is the relationship between two triple-channel kits.
Does it have to be the same kit?
Can the kits differ in frequency, timing, voltage, manufacturer, total memory (so, memory per stick), etc?
Will it have any effect if I buy a higher MHz kit and have it running on the lower 1066MHz?
*Can't find specs anywhere online, but it's a triple-channel kit of 2GB cards at 1333MHz, currently running at 1066MHz due to CPU limitations.
Reset the OC, yeah, however you have to do it.
Don't differ in volts or (probably) timings. Frequency will scale to the slowest (so will timing in theory...). Size 'should' match but probably will be fine regardless. Same with manufacturer. Lower speed you won't notice. You do want to try and get another triple kit set, though. Stupid triple channel memory.
SLI a pair of Titan Blacks, NOW.
Psssht. Two days late, them shits got ordered on Monday.
In all seriousness though, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on a 970 relatively soon. Seems like the MSI is my best bet for performance to quiet ratio, unless I hear any different.
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
nope, same signal, different connector.
it does, hdmi can carry other data on it as well, but for just the video data portions DVI and HDMI were designed to be interchangeable with just a pin adapter.
For reasons I didn't look into, certain bluetooth dongles seem to pair happily with DS3s and others do not. When I got the Scarlett Crush drivers to work on one bluetooth dongle I had to install some custom drivers. Drivers which rendered the dongle useless for anything else. I'm not sure if any such drivers exist for DS4, or if the same ones would work?
If I get round to buying a new console at some point, this is actually quite likely to be a defining factor. I.e. Spending over a hundred pounds on controllers that only work on a single system simply due to the greed of the manufacturer.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
Shit, you can overclock platter hard drives, soundcards, optical drives, gaming mice...
Y'know, I just said fuck it and took back the controller to Best Buy (had to return it last weekend or else I would've been out of my return window), but I posted in another thread and got a response. For what it's worth:
http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-XInput-Wrapper-for-DS3-and-Play-com-USB-Dual-DS2-Controller?pid=334146#pid334146
Seems like that might work. For future reference, I mean. I agree, though, it blows my mind that it's so difficult to connect. I really don't understand why that's the case. So frustrating.
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
I remember hearing that they promised something like that but now that I have actually looked it up, it seems that Sony is full of shit.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
They said something about eventually one day releasing a pc driver for the ds4, but that was all the info.
Of course, since a whole bunch games these days don't even acknowledge that DirectInput is a thing anymore, that's almost moot.
Oh sweet, trusting Ed. I was once like you. Full of hope, optimism, and stars in my eyes. I bought a PS4 controller and plugged it in via USB; all was right with the world. Well, I thought, the controller has Bluetooth, my computer has Bluetooth, this should be easy, right?
It was....not.
You might know me as D'Brickashaw on Steam.
Damn those missing reactions...
However Shift F10 doesn't work, it does nothing. So he hasn't been able to try that fix.
Anyone has a solution for any of these problems? The hard drive he is trying to install it on is an SSD, if that matters. --> http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct240m500ssd1
Are you installing 32-bit Windows 7 or 64-bit?
I think your best bet is going into the BIOS and making sure the SSD is set to ACHI mode.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2466753
Apparently it might be a SATA driver problem that might be solvable by doing this
I have no idea where to find those drivers though. His computer: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Izuela/saved/WkmWGX
*EDIT* I found some downloads on the MSI website. Would any of these files be correct for SATA driver thingamejs? http://us.msi.com/support/mb/Z97S_SLI_PLUS.html#down-bios
*2xEDIT* The SSD was already set to ACHI mode.
Edit what is he using to install, exactly? MS says it happens when "You are installing by using Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2 RTM media.". Of course, it could be happening with anything really... you probably saw this I suppose, though, being the first google result...
Check out the motherboard manual - see what key you have to press to get into the BIOS (usually DEL).
Turn the computer completely off - just hold the power button until it shuts off. Turn it back on and mash that DELETE key while it's turning on. From there you can do things like change the boot order (so you can boot off your install media again) or change your hard drive settings.
Bad ass, not sure I want to see the price on them though...
Who am I kidding, yes I do.
Have you tried F11 (I think) which will take you to the boot list? Then you can just pick what you want to boot off of?
Also, are you using a Windows 7 SP1 disc? If not you could try that - burn one using one of these ISO files (I assume you want x64 English):
http://www.w7forums.com/threads/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-image-downloads.12325/