All my os stuff is back in the UK. Unless they associate it with my Microsoft account I'm sol
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Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
No necessarily, you may just need to repair the o/s you already have installed. You have access to anyone with the disc or someone who has a copy of the .iso? Are you near Denver CO?
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
So I ended up returning my Asus G551 to Amazon for a refund. I used it on a test run to Houston, and several things about it really annoyed me. First off, I had the TN panel version, and it was a really bad TN panel. It was a touch too heavy and bulky, even for a 15.6" machine. Finally, the 960M graphics card really wasn't quite up to the level of power I wanted. I almost ordered the upgraded version of the same laptop with an IPS panel, but I decided to shop around.
In the end I decided on a Sager NP8651. I'm sacrificing 8 GB of RAM stock (which I can easily upgrade later), but I'm getting the 970M with 3GB of video RAM which is a much better performer, plus I'm getting a much nicer LG IPS FHD screen. In the end I paid just a touch more than I would have for the higher end G551, but I think I got a machine that will meet my needs better as it's also quite a bit thinner and lighter than the G55. The only other laptops with 970M+ hardware in them that are sub 1" thick that I could find are the Razer Blade (which is overpriced, as sexy as it is) and the Gigabyte P34 which has build quality issues. This is substantially thicker than both, but still pretty lightweight given it's a 970M and an i7-4720HQ...and still less than 1" thick, so we aren't talking about a monster.
I'm glad I had a bit of a test vacation to take the G551 on, as it really let me put it through it's regular-use paces.
No necessarily, you may just need to repair the o/s you already have installed. You have access to anyone with the disc or someone who has a copy of the .iso? Are you near Denver CO?
I'll ask around my office, I'm nowhere near Denver I'm afraid. I also have 8 installed on my surface, but don't know if I can reuse that key. My hope is that I'll plug a different sata cable in and everything will work, but it's a long shot. This ssd showed no sign of problems a day ago when I took it out of the old case.
Tube on
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Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
I know with Windows 7 you can type in a product key that's already in use to buy you a week or two before it starts demanding another key.
go into your bios and try changing the sata mode from ahci to ata or the reverse, sometimes that setting can get toggled when you swap things around and cause boot problems
go into your bios and try changing the sata mode from ahci to ata or the reverse, sometimes that setting can get toggled when you swap things around and cause boot problems
@Foomy I have options for ide, ahci and raid. It's on ahci now
go into your bios and try changing the sata mode from ahci to ata or the reverse, sometimes that setting can get toggled when you swap things around and cause boot problems
@Foomy I have options for ide, ahci and raid. It's on ahci now
try changing it to ide and see if the drive shows up.
go into your bios and try changing the sata mode from ahci to ata or the reverse, sometimes that setting can get toggled when you swap things around and cause boot problems
@Foomy I have options for ide, ahci and raid. It's on ahci now
try changing it to ide and see if the drive shows up.
Was gonna suggest fiddling with this setting.
What else did you change in the case? Just try to do some process-of-elimination.
No luck I'm afraid. The only other info I have now is in these (literal) screenshots. I'm hoping it's just the sata cable, if not this is going to get super expensive. I don't know if a duff cable would be enough to make the computer shit the bed in such a specific way.
Oh and I never move my cd drive over because whatever.
Wait fuck that has a sata cable...
Edit: titfucks, it's not the cable. Same result with the one from the optical drive
Edit 2: The problem has regressed, and the computer no longer posts. Just turns on, spins the fans for ten seconds and turns off. I don't know, I guess I fucked this build up somewhere. I'll need to take it to the shop.
Do you have enough power from your PSU to run everything Tube? If it's overdrawing then some of your components might not work properly and cause problems.
Just to clarify, reading back on previous pages here, the only new hardware you've installed is the water cooling? What are the power requirements on it?
According to this, not much more than my stock fan. The gpu might be causing the current Won't Do Anything problem, but the boot problem happened whether it was plugged in or not. Cooler and gpu were all that changed when moving to the new case. I also didn't move my dvd drive.
Hmm wouldn't be the power then. At this point I would just go over all the connections one last time before you bring it into the shop. It seems like you've gone over most of the possibilities. I had a similar problem way back in the day and it was something trivial like a loose connection.
Didn't your case get banged up really bad during shipping? Was the motherboard in there at the time? Could be Bad Things happened to the motherboard as a result.
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Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
So I'm looking into a new router and I'm currently thinking about getting this one.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
Some_tall_guy on
LOL ZEALURKS
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EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
Earlier when I asked for monitor advice, I actually meant to ask about 1440p monitors. But now, I'm looking at this...
So I'm looking into a new router and I'm currently thinking about getting this one.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
You computer won't be connected to both bands at once. It'll connect to whatever the best signal is. Generally higher frequency (5GHz) has lower range while 2.4GHz bands offer greater range, but at a lower throughput.
One of those monitors is currently a wet dream for me. Something I may consider once they drop in price a few hundred dollars more. I too am curious to know how well the new line of cards performs at those resolutions.
So I'm looking into a new router and I'm currently thinking about getting this one.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
You computer won't be connected to both bands at once. It'll connect to whatever the best signal is. Generally higher frequency (5GHz) has lower range while 2.4GHz bands offer greater range, but at a lower throughput.
That's exactly what I thought. Which means that so long as I know to purchase an AC router in the first place theres no point in throwing down the extra $40 for the 2.4/5.0 combo wombo wireless card.
2.4 penetrates walls better then 5 does, so if you can try and test to make sure you won't get a worse signal from an AC only setup before you invest.
I dunno if it's this simple.
You also have to factor in the fact that everyone and their mother is on 2.4ghz band 6 now, because that's what their router is on by default, and so the additional interference on 2.4ghz is a real consideration, imho.
Though penetration through walls is a different thing altogether from consistent throughput once connected.
Didn't your case get banged up really bad during shipping? Was the motherboard in there at the time? Could be Bad Things happened to the motherboard as a result.
It's possible, but it was running fine in the old case (aside from running hot) for a long time. Regardless, it looks like I'll have to take it into the shop. It needs to have someone who can swap parts out to see what's broken, and I don't have any spare kit lying around since the move.
So I'm looking into a new router and I'm currently thinking about getting this one.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
In order to use AC you have to have an adapter that supports AC... Just getting a new router and using an existing N adapter won't get you the new speeds that 5ghz and AC provide.
2.4 penetrates walls better then 5 does, so if you can try and test to make sure you won't get a worse signal from an AC only setup before you invest.
I dunno if it's this simple.
You also have to factor in the fact that everyone and their mother is on 2.4ghz band 6 now, because that's what their router is on by default, and so the additional interference on 2.4ghz is a real consideration, imho.
Though penetration through walls is a different thing altogether from consistent throughput once connected.
Yea, I mean whether or not 2.4 is oversaturated or not becomes a moot point if 5GHz can't reach his computer from where the router is.
Honestly unless someone is 100% sure that they'd always have a rock solid signal on 5GHz all the time I'd always get a dual band system. There is literally 1 corner of my house that the 5GHz signal dies on, but 2.4 is fine, so devices over there just connect on 2.4. It would be a dead spot if I was 5GHz only.
Not to mention all the legacy devices that don't support 5GHz, and there are probably more than you think around =/
If you're going to push Battlefield 4 maxed settings at that res and you want a steady 60+ FPS, then no a GTX980 Ti isn't going to do it for you. A Titan Z probably would, though!
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EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
If you're going to push Battlefield 4 maxed settings at that res and you want a steady 60+ FPS, then no a GTX980 Ti isn't going to do it for you. A Titan Z probably would, though!
So I ended up returning my Asus G551 to Amazon for a refund. I used it on a test run to Houston, and several things about it really annoyed me. First off, I had the TN panel version, and it was a really bad TN panel. It was a touch too heavy and bulky, even for a 15.6" machine. Finally, the 960M graphics card really wasn't quite up to the level of power I wanted. I almost ordered the upgraded version of the same laptop with an IPS panel, but I decided to shop around.
In the end I decided on a Sager NP8651. I'm sacrificing 8 GB of RAM stock (which I can easily upgrade later), but I'm getting the 970M with 3GB of video RAM which is a much better performer, plus I'm getting a much nicer LG IPS FHD screen. In the end I paid just a touch more than I would have for the higher end G551, but I think I got a machine that will meet my needs better as it's also quite a bit thinner and lighter than the G55. The only other laptops with 970M+ hardware in them that are sub 1" thick that I could find are the Razer Blade (which is overpriced, as sexy as it is) and the Gigabyte P34 which has build quality issues. This is substantially thicker than both, but still pretty lightweight given it's a 970M and an i7-4720HQ...and still less than 1" thick, so we aren't talking about a monster.
I'm glad I had a bit of a test vacation to take the G551 on, as it really let me put it through it's regular-use paces.
You picked a Sager already, so kudos there! Apparently the MSI WS60 is also getting excellent reviews and is relatively thin.
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EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
Posts
I'm going to be super bummed if I have to buy an os and a new ssd
In the end I decided on a Sager NP8651. I'm sacrificing 8 GB of RAM stock (which I can easily upgrade later), but I'm getting the 970M with 3GB of video RAM which is a much better performer, plus I'm getting a much nicer LG IPS FHD screen. In the end I paid just a touch more than I would have for the higher end G551, but I think I got a machine that will meet my needs better as it's also quite a bit thinner and lighter than the G55. The only other laptops with 970M+ hardware in them that are sub 1" thick that I could find are the Razer Blade (which is overpriced, as sexy as it is) and the Gigabyte P34 which has build quality issues. This is substantially thicker than both, but still pretty lightweight given it's a 970M and an i7-4720HQ...and still less than 1" thick, so we aren't talking about a monster.
I'm glad I had a bit of a test vacation to take the G551 on, as it really let me put it through it's regular-use paces.
I'll ask around my office, I'm nowhere near Denver I'm afraid. I also have 8 installed on my surface, but don't know if I can reuse that key. My hope is that I'll plug a different sata cable in and everything will work, but it's a long shot. This ssd showed no sign of problems a day ago when I took it out of the old case.
@Foomy I have options for ide, ahci and raid. It's on ahci now
try changing it to ide and see if the drive shows up.
Was gonna suggest fiddling with this setting.
What else did you change in the case? Just try to do some process-of-elimination.
Bios says this: http://imgur.com/tbXfF1T
http://imgur.com/y4x0Kt9
@Hamurabi just the cooler and gpu. Gpu was the first thing I took out, and the cooler is working gangbusters. Idling at around 20.
Wait fuck that has a sata cable...
Edit: titfucks, it's not the cable. Same result with the one from the optical drive
Edit 2: The problem has regressed, and the computer no longer posts. Just turns on, spins the fans for ten seconds and turns off. I don't know, I guess I fucked this build up somewhere. I'll need to take it to the shop.
According to this, not much more than my stock fan. The gpu might be causing the current Won't Do Anything problem, but the boot problem happened whether it was plugged in or not. Cooler and gpu were all that changed when moving to the new case. I also didn't move my dvd drive.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260239
Good for gaming? 980 ti push it well enough?
You computer won't be connected to both bands at once. It'll connect to whatever the best signal is. Generally higher frequency (5GHz) has lower range while 2.4GHz bands offer greater range, but at a lower throughput.
That's exactly what I thought. Which means that so long as I know to purchase an AC router in the first place theres no point in throwing down the extra $40 for the 2.4/5.0 combo wombo wireless card.
I dunno if it's this simple.
You also have to factor in the fact that everyone and their mother is on 2.4ghz band 6 now, because that's what their router is on by default, and so the additional interference on 2.4ghz is a real consideration, imho.
Though penetration through walls is a different thing altogether from consistent throughput once connected.
It's possible, but it was running fine in the old case (aside from running hot) for a long time. Regardless, it looks like I'll have to take it into the shop. It needs to have someone who can swap parts out to see what's broken, and I don't have any spare kit lying around since the move.
In order to use AC you have to have an adapter that supports AC... Just getting a new router and using an existing N adapter won't get you the new speeds that 5ghz and AC provide.
Yea, I mean whether or not 2.4 is oversaturated or not becomes a moot point if 5GHz can't reach his computer from where the router is.
Honestly unless someone is 100% sure that they'd always have a rock solid signal on 5GHz all the time I'd always get a dual band system. There is literally 1 corner of my house that the 5GHz signal dies on, but 2.4 is fine, so devices over there just connect on 2.4. It would be a dead spot if I was 5GHz only.
Not to mention all the legacy devices that don't support 5GHz, and there are probably more than you think around =/
Depends on what you mean by "well enough".
If you're going to push Battlefield 4 maxed settings at that res and you want a steady 60+ FPS, then no a GTX980 Ti isn't going to do it for you. A Titan Z probably would, though!
Mainly FFXIV.
On that size of a monitor?
You picked a Sager already, so kudos there! Apparently the MSI WS60 is also getting excellent reviews and is relatively thin.
I don't think it quite works like that.
You play GTA V at 3440 x 1440 with a much lower powered card than that?