Safety cutout, I think. Temperature controls are all electronic, so without them there's enough hydrocarbons to heat the water to scalding.
This is super good to know! We installed one right after moving in and I had no idea that was possible. Our fun learning came from when they taped over the whole unit (it's attached to the side of the house, right next to the main gas hook up) while painting the exterior. Thankfully the pilot light went out before the gas started to build up. The piece of plastic they covered it with had turned in to a fart-filled balloon.
"If complete and utter chaos was lightning, then he'd be the sort to stand on a hilltop in a thunderstorm wearing wet copper armour and shouting 'All gods are bastards'."
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
So I have discovered a negative about my new house. The house is like less than a mile to the nearest Fedex Hub. Ditto for the nearest UPS hub. So nice easy access and....what's that? They load the truck in reverse order? With the nearest drop offs being loaded first and then filled in with further away deliveries which the driver starts with?
Yeah, I've been routinely running against that "By 8 pm" thing on my Amazon deliveries. Not the worst thing in the world but will be annoying for things like release day shipping of big games.
So I have discovered a negative about my new house. The house is like less than a mile to the nearest Fedex Hub. Ditto for the nearest UPS hub. So nice easy access and....what's that? They load the truck in reverse order? With the nearest drop offs being loaded first and then filled in with further away deliveries which the driver starts with?
Yeah, I've been routinely running against that "By 8 pm" thing on my Amazon deliveries. Not the worst thing in the world but will be annoying for things like release day shipping of big games.
Call the hub (find the locally listed number) - have them hold your stuff there and just pick it up at your convenience. Generally shouldn't be an issue.
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
This sounds like a blockage in the sewer line from your house, along with a possible bad/degrading seal under that toilet. (I'm guessing the washing machine and the toilet are physically close to each other and therefore have a common sewer pipe.)
So I have discovered a negative about my new house. The house is like less than a mile to the nearest Fedex Hub. Ditto for the nearest UPS hub. So nice easy access and....what's that? They load the truck in reverse order? With the nearest drop offs being loaded first and then filled in with further away deliveries which the driver starts with?
Yeah, I've been routinely running against that "By 8 pm" thing on my Amazon deliveries. Not the worst thing in the world but will be annoying for things like release day shipping of big games.
Call the hub (find the locally listed number) - have them hold your stuff there and just pick it up at your convenience. Generally shouldn't be an issue.
Hmm....I think I can actually do this through UPS's My Choice program. Fedex has something similar but keep refusing to verify the address to me. I'll probably have to call them and complain at them for awhile.
So I have discovered a negative about my new house. The house is like less than a mile to the nearest Fedex Hub. Ditto for the nearest UPS hub. So nice easy access and....what's that? They load the truck in reverse order? With the nearest drop offs being loaded first and then filled in with further away deliveries which the driver starts with?
Yeah, I've been routinely running against that "By 8 pm" thing on my Amazon deliveries. Not the worst thing in the world but will be annoying for things like release day shipping of big games.
Call the hub (find the locally listed number) - have them hold your stuff there and just pick it up at your convenience. Generally shouldn't be an issue.
Hmm....I think I can actually do this through UPS's My Choice program. Fedex has something similar but keep refusing to verify the address to me. I'll probably have to call them and complain at them for awhile.
It can be quicker to get it done by just calling the hub, as usually they're happy to pull freight off the trucks and hold it provided you pick it up within a day or two. It's one less thing to do and fill the truck.
Just got all of the windows in our house replaced with energy efficient ones. When we got the house, the windows had this film on the inside that we couldn't seem to get rid of. They managed to finish downstairs and upstairs within one day. That's 15 windows plus an 8 foot sliding glass door.
I can see out my windows now you guys!
First thing we saw when looking out the sliding door was our dog staring at us while taking a dump. Hurray.
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JedocIn the scupperswith the staggers and jagsRegistered Userregular
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
This sounds like a blockage in the sewer line from your house, along with a possible bad/degrading seal under that toilet. (I'm guessing the washing machine and the toilet are physically close to each other and therefore have a common sewer pipe.)
Yup. The plumber will probably just need to snake the main drain or, at worst, clean out your house trap. But you'll definitely need to replace the wax ring under your toilet. Once it leaks, the integrity is pretty much compromised for good.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
I don't like the sound of running a heater constantly, especially not in an enclosed space like that. I don't want you getting all charred and crispy! How much does getting the pipes in the crawl space insulated cost? Could you have the crawl space filled with some sort of fireproof loose insulation like treated chopped wool or something?
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
I don't like the sound of running a heater constantly, especially not in an enclosed space like that. I don't want you getting all charred and crispy! How much does getting the pipes in the crawl space insulated cost? Could you have the crawl space filled with some sort of fireproof loose insulation like treated chopped wool or something?
My parents tried to do that, but every plumber/worker they got in to the house said that the crawl space was just too short for them to be able to do any work under there.
I'm not sure how bad it is, because even with it running like that the heat doesn't permeate up to the floor, and it's not just like a regular heater, it's a heater with a fan so it does blow the hot air to the entire crawl space which with how cold it is outside keeps an equilibrium.
I will keep you all appraised of what plumber dude says, arriving bright and early at 7 am tomorrow morning.
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
depends pretty gravely on location. 30,000 for 6 acres of bare land can be wickedly overpriced in some parts of the world
I can't remember if asked this before or not. So here it is.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
It's honestly probably not as bad as I'm describing but I'd need to see it in person to really decide on that.
Building new would likely be $200,000+
Renovating a 1890 house would probably only be about $100,000... a lot of knocking down walls though because it's one of those "everything is a room" style houses.
Kitchen is a big room, dining room, hallway rooms, just everything has a doorway.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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StraightziHere we may reign secure, and in my choice,To reign is worth ambition though in HellRegistered Userregular
I can't remember if asked this before or not. So here it is.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
Do you drink from the tap? Sounds like you need a water softener instead.
So get a water softener system. Then put water filters at the places you'd rationally get a drink of water from (kitchen sink). You'll probably want the softener upstream of your washer/dryer, and you'll want something that's in the 20-30 gpm range. Once you break 10 gpm you're looking at like $1500 though.
Edit: wow I was way off on those numbers, look like 10-15 would be more than enough in a home unless you plan to use like, everything at once.
bowen on
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
The issue is 1890 houses are designed for 1890 living. Like you have parlors and foyers and all that shit. I'd deffo need to open up the bottom level because the living room is barely large enough for a couch.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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StraightziHere we may reign secure, and in my choice,To reign is worth ambition though in HellRegistered Userregular
Oh yeah, I can totally understand why you might not want that. But personally, I find that sort of thing super appealing. Separate rooms for separate things that can be closed off and opened as needed. Being able to dedicate specific space and not have constant overflow.
Essentially I want to be able to have all of my parties be a live action game of Clue, and open concept ain't conducive to that.
I can't remember if asked this before or not. So here it is.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
Do you drink from the tap? Sounds like you need a water softener instead.
So get a water softener system. Then put water filters at the places you'd rationally get a drink of water from (kitchen sink). You'll probably want the softener upstream of your washer/dryer, and you'll want something that's in the 20-30 gpm range. Once you break 10 gpm you're looking at like $1500 though.
Edit: wow I was way off on those numbers, look like 10-15 would be more than enough in a home unless you plan to use like, everything at once.
The water softener isn't the way i want to go as I hear it stops removing chlorine in 2 to 3 years and isn't the best way to remove it. This isn't being done for drinking water. I want the chlorine out of all the water in the house.
I can't remember if asked this before or not. So here it is.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
Do you drink from the tap? Sounds like you need a water softener instead.
So get a water softener system. Then put water filters at the places you'd rationally get a drink of water from (kitchen sink). You'll probably want the softener upstream of your washer/dryer, and you'll want something that's in the 20-30 gpm range. Once you break 10 gpm you're looking at like $1500 though.
Edit: wow I was way off on those numbers, look like 10-15 would be more than enough in a home unless you plan to use like, everything at once.
The water softener isn't the way i want to go as I hear it stops removing chlorine in 2 to 3 years and isn't the best way to remove it. This isn't being done for drinking water. I want the chlorine out of all the water in the house.
Yeah the carbon is usually built into the system and can't be removed easily. You'll want a whole home chlorine system I suppose. If your skin is drying out it almost seems like you have a hard water problem.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
I can't remember if asked this before or not. So here it is.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
Do you drink from the tap? Sounds like you need a water softener instead.
So get a water softener system. Then put water filters at the places you'd rationally get a drink of water from (kitchen sink). You'll probably want the softener upstream of your washer/dryer, and you'll want something that's in the 20-30 gpm range. Once you break 10 gpm you're looking at like $1500 though.
Edit: wow I was way off on those numbers, look like 10-15 would be more than enough in a home unless you plan to use like, everything at once.
The water softener isn't the way i want to go as I hear it stops removing chlorine in 2 to 3 years and isn't the best way to remove it. This isn't being done for drinking water. I want the chlorine out of all the water in the house.
Yeah the carbon is usually built into the system and can't be removed easily. You'll want a whole home chlorine system I suppose. If your skin is drying out it almost seems like you have a hard water problem.
Yeah the drying out is more than just hard water though. Our old house had hard water and with moisturizing soap I'm usually fine. I just hate this water. In fact I may spring on a RO system for downstairs and fridge on top of the carbon filter system. Currently I can't stand the water out of the fridge even with their filter.
Oh yeah, I can totally understand why you might not want that. But personally, I find that sort of thing super appealing. Separate rooms for separate things that can be closed off and opened as needed. Being able to dedicate specific space and not have constant overflow.
Essentially I want to be able to have all of my parties be a live action game of Clue, and open concept ain't conducive to that.
Shit you'd love my house. Built in the 1890s. Has a parlour room off the hallway with two sets of doors. One set of big old pocket doors and some equally big ones that swing outwards. There's a door that separates the hallways and living room/dining room. Then doorways for the mudroom and the kitchen off the living room/dining room. Transoms you can open and put stuff in everywhere and chimneys all over. Wood everywhere too.
Macro9 on
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StraightziHere we may reign secure, and in my choice,To reign is worth ambition though in HellRegistered Userregular
Oh yeah, I can totally understand why you might not want that. But personally, I find that sort of thing super appealing. Separate rooms for separate things that can be closed off and opened as needed. Being able to dedicate specific space and not have constant overflow.
Essentially I want to be able to have all of my parties be a live action game of Clue, and open concept ain't conducive to that.
Shit you'd love my house. Built in the 1890s. Has a parlour room off the hallway with two sets of doors. One set of big old pocket doors and some equally big ones that swing outwards. There's a door that separates the hallways and living room/dining room. Then doorways for the mudroom and the kitchen off the living room/dining room. Transoms you can open and put stuff in everywhere and chimneys all over. Wood everywhere too.
Yessssss. That's fantastic.
My current apartment was built in the 1890s, so it's got some of those architectural details, but parts of it have been very distinctly redone, and it has more of a greatroom design overall (which, admittedly, is a room with dark wood paneling, multiple picture rails/ledges, and a giant built in cabinet).
Not hard to add those features, just tends to be costly if you can't DIY.
So most people stick with an ultra basic crown molding or quarter round because they're cheap.
But the room thing annoys me on a visceral level, I hate going through rooms to get to like a kitchen because there's 18 doorways in between the living room and the kitchen.
I guess if I had a servant it wouldn't be so bad.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Anyone know how to get the cover off my bathroom light? I've tried rotating the cover in various directions and nothing budges. I can get my fingers over the top part of the over but can't feel any latches or anything holding it together.
CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
edited January 2017
Hmm, hmm, someone is selling used iron balusters on craigslist. They're selling it along with newell posts (I already have some of those I bought, much nicer than theirs) and wooden banister parts (tricky since they're stair measurements will not match mine). I sent an email asking for just the price on the balusters. They're an interesting design and seem to maybe include the bottom shoe plates of the balusters. Got an answer back stating that she has to ask her husband if they can sell part of the lot instead of the whole thing. I suspect a lot of their price has to do with the balusters, but I think they're over-reaching by a lot on their price if so. They are a rather interesting design, but I'm not going to pay $250 for balusters that are already cut to a size that I didn't get to choose and that have been used. I may not be able to talk them down, though.
Edit: Ok, I've worked out that I can get all the baluster parts I want new for $230, and that means I can cut them to my own size and they don't have anything on them that needs to be cleaned off (like old epoxy or glued-on wood), that also includes shoes for both the bottom and the top, it involves letting me choose my own design instead of being "stuck" with someone else's (not that I mind their style of baluster, but I'm marshaling my arguments for talking them down in price). Since their balusters have inferior shoes to what I actually want, and per the lady who messaged me a few of the balusters are shorter than the others, I think the best they can expect from me is $100. We'll see what response I get when it comes to bargaining.
Cambiata on
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
Anyone know how to get the cover off my bathroom light? I've tried rotating the cover in various directions and nothing budges. I can get my fingers over the top part of the over but can't feel any latches or anything holding it together.
It is possibly like some in my place, there are 3 clips that hold onto the glass and one is spring loaded so you have to push it one specific direction to unclip from the other two fixed clips.
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
Anyone know how to get the cover off my bathroom light? I've tried rotating the cover in various directions and nothing budges. I can get my fingers over the top part of the over but can't feel any latches or anything holding it together.
It is possibly like some in my place, there are 3 clips that hold onto the glass and one is spring loaded so you have to push it one specific direction to unclip from the other two fixed clips.
I know the ones you're talking about - the clips are usually visable and easily accessable in those ones like this
I'm pretty sure the people that did the puzzles in old adventure games were the same people that design lighting fixtures.
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CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
Whelp. The people selling the stair parts are a member of that tribe that think their used, cut and glued parts are just as good as buying new from a store. I laid out my arguments, we'll see if I can convince them. I'm thinking probably not, since the husband already decided that the $280 the wife listed for isn't enough, despite the fact that I can get the parts I want new for that.
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
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CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
Just filed taxes that for the first time weren't done on the EZ 1040 form. Thanks to having a mortgage and a husband, I got about 4 times as much back as I usually do (while having been paid the highest amount in my life). Part of the refund check is going for this here chest of drawers I think I've mentioned.
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
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This is super good to know! We installed one right after moving in and I had no idea that was possible. Our fun learning came from when they taped over the whole unit (it's attached to the side of the house, right next to the main gas hook up) while painting the exterior. Thankfully the pilot light went out before the gas started to build up. The piece of plastic they covered it with had turned in to a fart-filled balloon.
I ran a load of clothes in my washing machine, and when it came time for the water to drain out of it, a pool of water started seeping out from underneath the toilet in my bathroom. I can't tell where it was leaking from though, the behind of the washing machine was dry, the toilet bowl and reservoir were dry, it was really leaking out from underneath the toilet bowl.
I thought that maybe the water pipes had frozen a little bit, because how my house works is that there's about a 1.5-2 foot tall crawlspace under the floor where all the pipes run, and it's just dirt under there, no cement or anything, so I have some heaters under there running perpetually during the winter to hopefully keep the pipes from freezing. It was on half power which is what it was on all of last winter and was fine, but I just turned it up to full power so I'll mention that to whoever the plumber sends to figure out wtf happened.
If I run the dishwasher, any of the sinks, the shower, or the toilet itself, there's no water leaking anywhere. It was just that one time where the washing machine was draining out.
Yeah, I've been routinely running against that "By 8 pm" thing on my Amazon deliveries. Not the worst thing in the world but will be annoying for things like release day shipping of big games.
Call the hub (find the locally listed number) - have them hold your stuff there and just pick it up at your convenience. Generally shouldn't be an issue.
This sounds like a blockage in the sewer line from your house, along with a possible bad/degrading seal under that toilet. (I'm guessing the washing machine and the toilet are physically close to each other and therefore have a common sewer pipe.)
Hmm....I think I can actually do this through UPS's My Choice program. Fedex has something similar but keep refusing to verify the address to me. I'll probably have to call them and complain at them for awhile.
It can be quicker to get it done by just calling the hub, as usually they're happy to pull freight off the trucks and hold it provided you pick it up within a day or two. It's one less thing to do and fill the truck.
I can see out my windows now you guys!
Yup. The plumber will probably just need to snake the main drain or, at worst, clean out your house trap. But you'll definitely need to replace the wax ring under your toilet. Once it leaks, the integrity is pretty much compromised for good.
I don't like the sound of running a heater constantly, especially not in an enclosed space like that. I don't want you getting all charred and crispy! How much does getting the pipes in the crawl space insulated cost? Could you have the crawl space filled with some sort of fireproof loose insulation like treated chopped wool or something?
built in 1890
hasn't seen renovations since like 1960
hmmmmmmmmm
Get it, bulldoze the house, build new.
My parents tried to do that, but every plumber/worker they got in to the house said that the crawl space was just too short for them to be able to do any work under there.
I'm not sure how bad it is, because even with it running like that the heat doesn't permeate up to the floor, and it's not just like a regular heater, it's a heater with a fan so it does blow the hot air to the entire crawl space which with how cold it is outside keeps an equilibrium.
I will keep you all appraised of what plumber dude says, arriving bright and early at 7 am tomorrow morning.
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
Our city water is so heavily chlorinated that I want to get a whole house water filter. I'm finding one that does what I want but it's only 10gpm. Is 10 too low for a house with 2 adults a 12 year old and a 15 month. I know it comes down to how many things are running at once but I seriously doubt we'd be doing laundry, dishwasher and washing dishes by hand as someone is flushing. The reason for whole house over filters at faucets? Baths smell bad of chlorine as do flushed toilets. And I swear it's drying me out more than normal from showers.
Also I'm looking at 2 stage as I don't see a need for a sediment filter.
It's honestly probably not as bad as I'm describing but I'd need to see it in person to really decide on that.
Building new would likely be $200,000+
Renovating a 1890 house would probably only be about $100,000... a lot of knocking down walls though because it's one of those "everything is a room" style houses.
Kitchen is a big room, dining room, hallway rooms, just everything has a doorway.
I love older houses though.
Do you drink from the tap? Sounds like you need a water softener instead.
So get a water softener system. Then put water filters at the places you'd rationally get a drink of water from (kitchen sink). You'll probably want the softener upstream of your washer/dryer, and you'll want something that's in the 20-30 gpm range. Once you break 10 gpm you're looking at like $1500 though.
Edit: wow I was way off on those numbers, look like 10-15 would be more than enough in a home unless you plan to use like, everything at once.
The issue is 1890 houses are designed for 1890 living. Like you have parlors and foyers and all that shit. I'd deffo need to open up the bottom level because the living room is barely large enough for a couch.
Essentially I want to be able to have all of my parties be a live action game of Clue, and open concept ain't conducive to that.
The water softener isn't the way i want to go as I hear it stops removing chlorine in 2 to 3 years and isn't the best way to remove it. This isn't being done for drinking water. I want the chlorine out of all the water in the house.
Yeah the carbon is usually built into the system and can't be removed easily. You'll want a whole home chlorine system I suppose. If your skin is drying out it almost seems like you have a hard water problem.
Yeah the drying out is more than just hard water though. Our old house had hard water and with moisturizing soap I'm usually fine. I just hate this water. In fact I may spring on a RO system for downstairs and fridge on top of the carbon filter system. Currently I can't stand the water out of the fridge even with their filter.
Shit you'd love my house. Built in the 1890s. Has a parlour room off the hallway with two sets of doors. One set of big old pocket doors and some equally big ones that swing outwards. There's a door that separates the hallways and living room/dining room. Then doorways for the mudroom and the kitchen off the living room/dining room. Transoms you can open and put stuff in everywhere and chimneys all over. Wood everywhere too.
Yessssss. That's fantastic.
My current apartment was built in the 1890s, so it's got some of those architectural details, but parts of it have been very distinctly redone, and it has more of a greatroom design overall (which, admittedly, is a room with dark wood paneling, multiple picture rails/ledges, and a giant built in cabinet).
So most people stick with an ultra basic crown molding or quarter round because they're cheap.
But the room thing annoys me on a visceral level, I hate going through rooms to get to like a kitchen because there's 18 doorways in between the living room and the kitchen.
I guess if I had a servant it wouldn't be so bad.
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
Edit: Ok, I've worked out that I can get all the baluster parts I want new for $230, and that means I can cut them to my own size and they don't have anything on them that needs to be cleaned off (like old epoxy or glued-on wood), that also includes shoes for both the bottom and the top, it involves letting me choose my own design instead of being "stuck" with someone else's (not that I mind their style of baluster, but I'm marshaling my arguments for talking them down in price). Since their balusters have inferior shoes to what I actually want, and per the lady who messaged me a few of the balusters are shorter than the others, I think the best they can expect from me is $100. We'll see what response I get when it comes to bargaining.
Thanks I'll have a try when I get home!
It might also have tricky flanges, so apply downward pressure while rotating counterclockwise just in case there's a notch in there.
It is possibly like some in my place, there are 3 clips that hold onto the glass and one is spring loaded so you have to push it one specific direction to unclip from the other two fixed clips.
I know the ones you're talking about - the clips are usually visable and easily accessable in those ones like this
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.