I would start with opening the task manager to the full detail mode and see if you can see which process is driving the CPU usage.
It changes from moment to moment! Like straight up, one moment a process is taking one percent of the CPU, the next it is taking eight percent, and then back down to one again. It's not any one single process, just... whatever is the primary process (chrome, GTA, Steam, the resource monitor when everything else is closed) seems to spike randomly
It happens so constantly and so consistently that I really do feel like there's something wrong, but... on the other hand it's not exactly keeping me from playing games or anything. Mostly just multitasking
I'm just worried it's going to become a bigger problem further down the line, y'know?
When you are playing games and notice the stuttering, is your antivirus or similar programs attempting disk or process scans at the same time?
At the time I got the stuttering? Steam was downloading and installing something in the background
So... yeah, I guess!
It's also an SSD, though, if that matters
Side note: I just booted up my computer, and it boots up REAL fast, so I immediately booted up task manager/resource monitor to look and see how the CPU was doing, and at boot up it spiked to one hundred percent and then almost immediately went back down to the thirties and stuff until everything had finished booting up and then went back down to zero to three percent
I don't think my last CPU did that? But it always booted much slower
It's... still concerning to me? But I kept CoreTemp and Resource Monitor up while I was playing Witcher 3 a bunch last night, and according to what the internet says, it never went particularly high or dangerous! And the CPU never went higher than fifty percent or so, but did keep spiking around up and down between about twenty eight and thirty eight depending
So... I don't know! I don't know what I did wrong! Or if anything is actually wrong!
SSD or no if you're saturating the drive with a download and then installing, it's gonna cause access issues. It does't sound like anything it actually wrong with your system unless it's stuttering without doing anything other than playing a game.
Amazon has the ASUS reference board up for $614 with Prime shipping, and it'll ship "when it's available." Not bad -- a $50 discount at the expense of waiting a week or so for the ASUS cards to be back in stock.
Also: I would like to reiterate that Amazon customer service is amazing.
I got hit with a 20% restocking fee, presumably because I lost the original internal retail packaging for one of my STRIX 970's, and sent them back the card in bubble-wrap and in the original outer retail box and with no adapters.
Used the chat feature to talk to an Amazon rep and they issued a refund for the $68 restocking fee immediately. Jawesome.
I have an Asus R290 that I'll give away here, none of my meatspace friends need it. I'm not selling it because I rebuilt my old mans computer after it started having problems. I don't think the card was the issue but I don't want to sell it and risk an angry buyer. I'd like it to go to one of the folks in here scraping together a budget build, not one of you fools like me who goes through video cards like socks.
Anyway lemme know if you want this thing and I'll ship it out to you.
Cabezone on
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Zen VulgarityWhat a lovely day for teaSecret British ThreadRegistered Userregular
Repair is finished! I haven't picked it up yet though. They're telling me that it's running very "laggy" and said I might have a virus. It was running fine before the case move, am I right in thinking this is likely to be the Windows install freaking out because of the hardware changes?
Repair is finished! I haven't picked it up yet though. They're telling me that it's running very "laggy" and said I might have a virus. It was running fine before the case move, am I right in thinking this is likely to be the Windows install freaking out because of the hardware changes?
Probably.
Really your best bet in a motherboard swap situation is to just do a clean Windows install. Much less hassle than trying to install all the new drivers piecemeal/track down other culprits of wonkiness.
Repair is finished! I haven't picked it up yet though. They're telling me that it's running very "laggy" and said I might have a virus. It was running fine before the case move, am I right in thinking this is likely to be the Windows install freaking out because of the hardware changes?
Probably.
Really your best bet in a motherboard swap situation is to just do a clean Windows install. Much less hassle than trying to install all the new drivers piecemeal/track down other culprits of wonkiness.
Pretty much. I'm going to be super bummed out if the "lag" is something else.
He also said the computer was idling at around 34, which seems a little high for my fancy dan cooling but WHATEVER JUST GIVE ME MY COMPUTER BACK.
I did not know that! I'm hoping that it will be significantly lower under load. My old cooler was hitting between 60 and 70.
well, think of it as basic chemistry and physics. Water takes more energy to both heat up and cool down than air. So if the processor is putting out the same amount of heat energy at load as it was before, it'll mean the water temperature should be cooler than it would be under air. Conversely, it won't get quite as cool at idle because there isn't enough temperature differential between the water and the air around it to have enough energy for a heat transfer to cool the water down more.
I don't know that I would say CLC's are higher at idle than air coolers, as a rule.
Just because the fans aren't spinning at 100% like they could be under load (depending on how you're managing the fans) doesn't mean they're not spinning at all, and that water isn't being shuttled through the rad's fins and being stripped of heat.
The CLC pump itself should by default always be at 100% so that's not varying between idle and load either.
Also: any suggestions on a relatively compact full ATX case?
That doesn't seem to be a particularly well-served niche. Everything ATX seems to be content with being as big as possible, so you just end up with a bunch of unused space (if like me you're interested in stripping the case of any and all 3.25"/5.25" drive bays).
I don't know that I would say CLC's are higher at idle than air coolers, as a rule.
Just because the fans aren't spinning at 100% like they could be under load (depending on how you're managing the fans) doesn't mean they're not spinning at all, and that water isn't being shuttled through the rad's fins and being stripped of heat.
The CLC pump itself should by default always be at 100% so that's not varying between idle and load either.
As a general rule your closed loop water coolers will idle higher than any of the decent aftermarket air coolers, vs stock I have no idea. Those big water loop systems probably idle lower but I have never researched those at all. The main reason I went with one is it's quieter than an equivalent air cooler with the same performance. You also don't have a giant heavy block of metal strapped to your mobo.
Also: any suggestions on a relatively compact full ATX case?
That doesn't seem to be a particularly well-served niche. Everything ATX seems to be content with being as big as possible, so you just end up with a bunch of unused space (if like me you're interested in stripping the case of any and all 3.25"/5.25" drive bays).
Fractal Define S? The thing doesnt' even *have* 5.25" bays and fits an ATX board. And you can pull out the 3.25" drive cages.
Also: any suggestions on a relatively compact full ATX case?
That doesn't seem to be a particularly well-served niche. Everything ATX seems to be content with being as big as possible, so you just end up with a bunch of unused space (if like me you're interested in stripping the case of any and all 3.25"/5.25" drive bays).
Fractal Define S? The thing doesnt' even *have* 5.25" bays and fits an ATX board. And you can pull out the 3.25" drive cages.
The Define S isn't particularly compact. It's about the same size as the R4/R5. It just eliminates the 5.25" bays and allows a more spacious internal layout.
Ok, I've written here about my haunted machine and thought I'd solved it...turns out I haven't.
I have an old build from the BF3 era (2500k/ASRock Z68/24GB RAM) that has a Corsair 650w PSU and a 290x. For some reason recently, my USB power has been cutting out. I thought it was just my Logitech G602 or the port that it was in, but it's ALL of my USB devices. It seems to be worse when I'm playing games, but that may be in my head.
I'm losing my mind on this...I feel like it's gotten worse and there's nothing in Windows event viewer that points to anything being wrong in the system.
Here are the only things I can think of:
Software -- if there's an issue with Drivers or Windows or something, I'll have to reformat. I'm downloading a Linux Live USB to test out if this only happens in Windows (currently running Win7 x64)
Hardware -- It's possible there's a short or PSU issue somewhere...god I hope not. It's also possible that my ASRock mobo is just about to die, which would make me sad since now's not a great time to do a full rebuild.
Since I can now get into my windows install on the desktop, can I get it to reinstall windows from there or should I still put an iso onto USB?
what version of windows is it?
8.1 64 bit
give the PC reset a try. go to the PC settings app, and in update and recovery do a PC reset. This will wipe and re-install windows. you can choose what data to keep/not keep in the prompts. I'd recommend just making sure you don't have anything you need on the drive and keep nothing.
Also: any suggestions on a relatively compact full ATX case?
That doesn't seem to be a particularly well-served niche. Everything ATX seems to be content with being as big as possible, so you just end up with a bunch of unused space (if like me you're interested in stripping the case of any and all 3.25"/5.25" drive bays).
Fractal Define S? The thing doesnt' even *have* 5.25" bays and fits an ATX board. And you can pull out the 3.25" drive cages.
The Define S isn't particularly compact. It's about the same size as the R4/R5. It just eliminates the 5.25" bays and allows a more spacious internal layout.
Yeah, I've seen the Define S. It looks like a great case... but replaces all the now-obsolete bits like bolted-on 3.5"/5.25" bays with a bunch of empty space inside of a big black box that just takes up space.
Trying to get away from that model, for aesthetic reasons, without making the wholesale leap to a whole new Mini-ITX/Micro-ATX motherboard and case.
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Zen VulgarityWhat a lovely day for teaSecret British ThreadRegistered Userregular
Yeah, at the moment. Used to have a Micro-ATX before this one, but the need for (actually properly spaced) PCIe lanes for SLI outweighed the compactness factor, and so I ditched my old Gigabyte board and 350D for a full ATX board with two lanes' spacing inbetween the PCIe 3.0 slots, and a 450D.
But now that I'll be moving back to a single-slot card (980 Ti), I'm getting the itch for a more compact build again, but don't want to take on the cost and time of doing a complete migration to a Mini-ITX build.
Though given that I can't find a (relatively) compact ATX case, it may be unavoidable. The Node 202 does look incredibly attractive.
The Lian Li PC-A05FNB is also a relatively compelling case. If they just ditched the 5.25" bays and replace that space with a 120mm fan mount -- or if I made the effort to mod it -- it would pretty much be my ideal ATX case.
Posts
SSD or no if you're saturating the drive with a download and then installing, it's gonna cause access issues. It does't sound like anything it actually wrong with your system unless it's stuttering without doing anything other than playing a game.
Amazon has the ASUS reference board up for $614 with Prime shipping, and it'll ship "when it's available." Not bad -- a $50 discount at the expense of waiting a week or so for the ASUS cards to be back in stock.
I got hit with a 20% restocking fee, presumably because I lost the original internal retail packaging for one of my STRIX 970's, and sent them back the card in bubble-wrap and in the original outer retail box and with no adapters.
Used the chat feature to talk to an Amazon rep and they issued a refund for the $68 restocking fee immediately. Jawesome.
No one can seem to keep any damn 980 Ti's in stock.
Anyway lemme know if you want this thing and I'll ship it out to you.
Just order from Galax?
Also out of stock.
Damn
Probably.
Really your best bet in a motherboard swap situation is to just do a clean Windows install. Much less hassle than trying to install all the new drivers piecemeal/track down other culprits of wonkiness.
Pretty much. I'm going to be super bummed out if the "lag" is something else.
He also said the computer was idling at around 34, which seems a little high for my fancy dan cooling but WHATEVER JUST GIVE ME MY COMPUTER BACK.
I did not know that! I'm hoping that it will be significantly lower under load. My old cooler was hitting between 60 and 70.
[citation needed]
well, think of it as basic chemistry and physics. Water takes more energy to both heat up and cool down than air. So if the processor is putting out the same amount of heat energy at load as it was before, it'll mean the water temperature should be cooler than it would be under air. Conversely, it won't get quite as cool at idle because there isn't enough temperature differential between the water and the air around it to have enough energy for a heat transfer to cool the water down more.
I have mine set to a fairly aggressive quite fan setting and it's cooler than that even with an overclock.
Just because the fans aren't spinning at 100% like they could be under load (depending on how you're managing the fans) doesn't mean they're not spinning at all, and that water isn't being shuttled through the rad's fins and being stripped of heat.
The CLC pump itself should by default always be at 100% so that's not varying between idle and load either.
That doesn't seem to be a particularly well-served niche. Everything ATX seems to be content with being as big as possible, so you just end up with a bunch of unused space (if like me you're interested in stripping the case of any and all 3.25"/5.25" drive bays).
As a general rule your closed loop water coolers will idle higher than any of the decent aftermarket air coolers, vs stock I have no idea. Those big water loop systems probably idle lower but I have never researched those at all. The main reason I went with one is it's quieter than an equivalent air cooler with the same performance. You also don't have a giant heavy block of metal strapped to your mobo.
Fractal Define S? The thing doesnt' even *have* 5.25" bays and fits an ATX board. And you can pull out the 3.25" drive cages.
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s
what version of windows is it?
The Define S isn't particularly compact. It's about the same size as the R4/R5. It just eliminates the 5.25" bays and allows a more spacious internal layout.
https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/143-h440-performance-mid-tower.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=23-816-035&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=GD070815&nm_mc=EMC-GD070815&cm_mmc=EMC-GD070815-_-index-_-Item-_-23-816-035
Have this one instead
8.1 64 bit
I have an old build from the BF3 era (2500k/ASRock Z68/24GB RAM) that has a Corsair 650w PSU and a 290x. For some reason recently, my USB power has been cutting out. I thought it was just my Logitech G602 or the port that it was in, but it's ALL of my USB devices. It seems to be worse when I'm playing games, but that may be in my head.
I'm losing my mind on this...I feel like it's gotten worse and there's nothing in Windows event viewer that points to anything being wrong in the system.
Here are the only things I can think of:
Any thoughts?
give the PC reset a try. go to the PC settings app, and in update and recovery do a PC reset. This will wipe and re-install windows. you can choose what data to keep/not keep in the prompts. I'd recommend just making sure you don't have anything you need on the drive and keep nothing.
Yeah, I've seen the Define S. It looks like a great case... but replaces all the now-obsolete bits like bolted-on 3.5"/5.25" bays with a bunch of empty space inside of a big black box that just takes up space.
Trying to get away from that model, for aesthetic reasons, without making the wholesale leap to a whole new Mini-ITX/Micro-ATX motherboard and case.
Yeah, at the moment. Used to have a Micro-ATX before this one, but the need for (actually properly spaced) PCIe lanes for SLI outweighed the compactness factor, and so I ditched my old Gigabyte board and 350D for a full ATX board with two lanes' spacing inbetween the PCIe 3.0 slots, and a 450D.
But now that I'll be moving back to a single-slot card (980 Ti), I'm getting the itch for a more compact build again, but don't want to take on the cost and time of doing a complete migration to a Mini-ITX build.
Though given that I can't find a (relatively) compact ATX case, it may be unavoidable. The Node 202 does look incredibly attractive.
what about this
ouch, something is definitely not running right.
I would just make a win8 install usb, nuke the drive and start fresh.
If they call that "laggy", they are being charitable.