Was thinking about buying an SSD to help speed up loading times in some of my newer games that are pretty bad with em (Fallout 4 and Witcher 3 for example) but I've no experience with having a secondary storage device before.
Am I going to need to install windows on the SSD too or is it as simple as just plugging it in and tossing my games I want to ran faster on the new drive?
I'm fine with using my HDD for everything else. This would be purely for gaming.
As mentioned, SSDs are one of those upgrades that only provide an upgrade to software that runs on them. In other words, if you only install 4 games on an SSD drive, only those four games will benefit.
So you'll want to get as much use out of it as possible. It's also worth noting that, like normal drives, not all SSDs are born equal--reliability has improved a whole bunch, but quite a few discounts models are that way because of much slower reading and writing speeds. I found this webpage very useful when replacing my dud SSD that was seriously messing up my system.
Was thinking about buying an SSD to help speed up loading times in some of my newer games that are pretty bad with em (Fallout 4 and Witcher 3 for example) but I've no experience with having a secondary storage device before.
Am I going to need to install windows on the SSD too or is it as simple as just plugging it in and tossing my games I want to ran faster on the new drive?
I'm fine with using my HDD for everything else. This would be purely for gaming.
250GB at least, go with Crucial or Samsung. Put your Windows install on it and programs/games - I think it's worth it to be running whatever you can off of the SSD.
Hm. Finally got everything (mostly everything) updated and running and such, and it all seems to be working splendidly... Except the cpu is gettin kinda toasty! It's an i5 6600k and it's running at about an average of 68-70°, and from what I've been told in the past that's a bit too warm. We've got the cpu cooler installed correctly and it seems to be functioning properly, and the airflow in the case seems pretty good as well.
So I'm a bit concerned.
Id suggest reapplying the thermal grease.
Speaking of which, I'm going to be receiving my 6600k in a couple days. What's the best method for applying thermal compound these days, is it still just a grain of rice and apply heat sink? I ended up breaking from Arctic Silver and went with something called HeGrease this time.
Id say a small blob just under the size of a dime.
I havent applied any myself since 2005, so I should probably read up...
The generally accepted blob size is "pea-sized" followed by attaching the heatsink.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
Hm. Finally got everything (mostly everything) updated and running and such, and it all seems to be working splendidly... Except the cpu is gettin kinda toasty! It's an i5 6600k and it's running at about an average of 68-70°, and from what I've been told in the past that's a bit too warm. We've got the cpu cooler installed correctly and it seems to be functioning properly, and the airflow in the case seems pretty good as well.
So I'm a bit concerned.
Id suggest reapplying the thermal grease.
Speaking of which, I'm going to be receiving my 6600k in a couple days. What's the best method for applying thermal compound these days, is it still just a grain of rice and apply heat sink? I ended up breaking from Arctic Silver and went with something called HeGrease this time.
Did you end up sticking with the Corsair H60 cooler? If so, I'm fairly certain it comes with just the right amount of preapplied thermal paste, and from what I've read people think it's high quality as well. You should be fine and dandy just sticking with that, but if you're dead set on applying you're own you'll have to be sure to remove Corsair's preapplied paste first.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Was thinking about buying an SSD to help speed up loading times in some of my newer games that are pretty bad with em (Fallout 4 and Witcher 3 for example) but I've no experience with having a secondary storage device before.
Am I going to need to install windows on the SSD too or is it as simple as just plugging it in and tossing my games I want to ran faster on the new drive?
I'm fine with using my HDD for everything else. This would be purely for gaming.
250GB at least, go with Crucial or Samsung. Put your Windows install on it and programs/games - I think it's worth it to be running whatever you can off of the SSD.
I've heard the Intel drives are of really high quality, but they come at a premium.
Did you end up sticking with the Corsair H60 cooler? If so, I'm fairly certain it comes with just the right amount of preapplied thermal paste, and from what I've read people think it's high quality as well. You should be fine and dandy just sticking with that, but if you're dead set on applying you're own you'll have to be sure to remove Corsair's preapplied paste first.
I ended up going with the CM 212 EVO, all of the reviews I saw stated that the EVO actually outperformed the H60 and was a fair bit quieter, due to the fan being in the middle of the case rather than the edge. My case sits on the floor, with no window, so the pretty-factor didn't really matter to me.
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Metzger MeisterIt Gets Worsebefore it gets any better.Registered Userregular
The way we applied the thermal paste originally was with a credit card, like little dollops and then spreading them out. We were running it without the side of the case last night and it was still heating up. I think maybe we'll also try switching a couple of the fans to exhaust so we can get a little more negative pressure inside the case.
Other than the heat issue it's runnin like a jackrabbit, so I sure hope we can get this settled. The processor is the only thing that's running hot, so if we can get this figured out I'll be pleased as punch.
I have a Samsung 250GB as my OS and Core Application drive (Adobe Master Collection), then a 500GB SSD as my Steam Drive, then a 500 WD Black as non-essential applications, and finally a 1TB WD Blue as just regular storage.
Hm. Finally got everything (mostly everything) updated and running and such, and it all seems to be working splendidly... Except the cpu is gettin kinda toasty! It's an i5 6600k and it's running at about an average of 68-70°, and from what I've been told in the past that's a bit too warm. We've got the cpu cooler installed correctly and it seems to be functioning properly, and the airflow in the case seems pretty good as well.
So I'm a bit concerned.
Id suggest reapplying the thermal grease.
Speaking of which, I'm going to be receiving my 6600k in a couple days. What's the best method for applying thermal compound these days, is it still just a grain of rice and apply heat sink? I ended up breaking from Arctic Silver and went with something called HeGrease this time.
Id say a small blob just under the size of a dime.
I havent applied any myself since 2005, so I should probably read up...
I followed the "drop" method from Tom's Hardware Guide and it worked pretty well for me.
Another piece of advice that worked out well for me was to warm up the paste beforehand, which is recommended if your particular brand of paste is known to be extremely viscous. I was using Gelid, a brand legendary for its viscosity (and by "legendary", its high viscosity was mentioned in two separate reviews of it that I read), so I took the tube, put it in a ziploc baggy and dunked it in the sous vide tub for something I was cooking that day. >.>
Anyway, it came out great. My new machine will hold 70C running the small FFT test of Prime95 all day erry day.
The way we applied the thermal paste originally was with a credit card, like little dollops and then spreading them out. We were running it without the side of the case last night and it was still heating up. I think maybe we'll also try switching a couple of the fans to exhaust so we can get a little more negative pressure inside the case.
Other than the heat issue it's runnin like a jackrabbit, so I sure hope we can get this settled. The processor is the only thing that's running hot, so if we can get this figured out I'll be pleased as punch.
If it is only your cpu that is heating up then I wouldn't worry too much about the ambient air temp in the case. If it was getting really hot in there the temps on your GPU and motherboard would be high too.
Make sure your heat sink is seated tightly, but not over tight (make sure your mobo isn't warping with the pressure). If that doesn't help then try cleaning off the paste you put on and reapplying. Maybe with doing the credit card method you got some inadvertent air bubbles when you put the heat sink on.
Hope you can get those temps down!
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
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Metzger MeisterIt Gets Worsebefore it gets any better.Registered Userregular
WELP I THINK I FOUND THE PROBLEM LOL
Heat-sink cable was between the bottom of the cooler and the cpu :v fuckin lololol
#firsttimebuildproblems
Reapplied thermal paste to both cpu and main cooler plate, let's plug this sumbitch in and see what's what.
Was thinking about buying an SSD to help speed up loading times in some of my newer games that are pretty bad with em (Fallout 4 and Witcher 3 for example) but I've no experience with having a secondary storage device before.
Am I going to need to install windows on the SSD too or is it as simple as just plugging it in and tossing my games I want to ran faster on the new drive?
I'm fine with using my HDD for everything else. This would be purely for gaming.
250GB at least, go with Crucial or Samsung. Put your Windows install on it and programs/games - I think it's worth it to be running whatever you can off of the SSD.
I've heard the Intel drives are of really high quality, but they come at a premium.
I'd say Samsung is a good middle-of-the-road.
I seem to remember Intel drives had superior longevity, but lacked the speed that other brands have. Samsung while still being really reliable are also really fast. I think Anandtech or someone did a constant write test (like, constantly wrote to the drives for a couple of months) and the Intel and I want to say Kingston drives lasted the longest but they all went well beyond their warrantied lifespan.
I have a Corsair Force 3 from like 2011 and its still going strong, and then I've thrown about 3 Samsung Evos into things and I haven't had a single issue with any of them.
The Corsair is noticeably slower than the Samsungs, but its also like 3 years older (and two of the Samsungs are running OSX while the Corsair is now running Windows 10).Granted, my 2009 Macbook Pro (with a Core 2 Duo!) seems just as snappy as my desktop with a 2600k overclocked to 4.5GHz.
I can't recommend the Samsungs enough, to the point where I just threw one in my sister's laptop before she headed off to Africa (which will make tech support.... difficult to say the least).
Heat-sink cable was between the bottom of the cooler and the cpu :v fuckin lololol
#firsttimebuildproblems
Reapplied thermal paste to both cpu and main cooler plate, let's plug this sumbitch in and see what's what.
Did you out thermal paste in the cpu and then put more thermal paste on the heatsink?
If so, too much thermal paste.
The layer on the cooler was thin enough to see through, I just wanted to make sure we had our bases covered. My husband and I live way the hell out in the country, so we're gonna go over to friend's house later to use their cable, I'll check things out before we leave and see what's up.
Metzger Meister on
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
There are ample YouTube videos that show exactly how to apply thermal paste correctly. I highly suggest finding one if it's your first time. Specifically the credit card method. I am not a fan of the heatsink pressure method.
Heat-sink cable was between the bottom of the cooler and the cpu :v fuckin lololol
#firsttimebuildproblems
Reapplied thermal paste to both cpu and main cooler plate, let's plug this sumbitch in and see what's what.
Did you out thermal paste in the cpu and then put more thermal paste on the heatsink?
If so, too much thermal paste.
The layer on the cooler was thin enough to see through, I just wanted to make sure we had our bases covered. My husband and I live way the hell out in the country, so we're gonna go over to friend's house later to use their cable, I'll check things out before we leave and see what's up.
The trouble is that if you put too much, it's not "oops I wasted some paste" but rather "oops I've inserted a blanket to hinder heat from going from the CPU to the heatsink."
Thermal paste isn't designed to be an entire layer between heatsink/cpu. It's just there to even out and fill in any tiny inconsistencies in the metal surfaces.
You could technically run without any paste at all if you very carefully polished both the cpu and heatsink to near perfection, but I don't know anyone crazy enough to do that.
You could technically run without any paste at all if you very carefully polished both the cpu and heatsink to near perfection, but I don't know anyone crazy enough to do that.
Shiiit. CPU lapping was a major craze back in the late days of the Pentium. Anything to get incremental cooling.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting a pea sized drop of paste. People have been doing it that way forever and it consistently shows as working fine in tests.
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Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
You could technically run without any paste at all if you very carefully polished both the cpu and heatsink to near perfection, but I don't know anyone crazy enough to do that.
Shiiit. CPU lapping was a major craze back in the late days of the Pentium. Anything to get incremental cooling.
When your CPUs produced enough waste heat to power a small village, you needed every little damn thing you can get.
(Rest in peace Netburst, you grossly inefficient piece of shit you.)
How terrible of an idea would it be to reuse a 5-year old power supply in a new build?
Not necessarily a terrible idea, depending on its wattage and rating/warranty. A good PSU should last you through 2-3 builds, it's probably the component in your system with the most longevity if you buy the right one. What PSU is it?
How terrible of an idea would it be to reuse a 5-year old power supply in a new build?
Not necessarily a terrible idea, depending on its wattage and rating/warranty. A good PSU should last you through 2-3 builds, it's probably the component in your system with the most longevity if you buy the right one. What PSU is it?
You could technically run without any paste at all if you very carefully polished both the cpu and heatsink to near perfection, but I don't know anyone crazy enough to do that.
Shiiit. CPU lapping was a major craze back in the late days of the Pentium. Anything to get incremental cooling.
My 4770k is lapped and de-lidded with Gelid TIM. Ran cooler than a stock 4790k before I OCed it. Now it hits the same temps at 4.1GHz as a 5790k at stock speeds.
How terrible of an idea would it be to reuse a 5-year old power supply in a new build?
I'm still using the same Antec 750w bronze rated semi-modular PS from 2011.
You will be fine as long as you probably don't try to push it to it's max.
Cool, good to know. My new build will probably be even less demanding than my current one. Gonna go for a i5 6600 with a single ssd and probably a gtx 960. Low heat and quiet operation are more important to me than raw power.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
So, I'm getting this little guy. All the fan controllers I've seen have had cheap "touch screens" and the reviews often peg them as garbage.
I definitely want RAID 1 or 5 for documents storage, possibly an in-home git. This doesn't need to be insane amounts of storage (not sure if I would even need 100GB), but I'm wondering if there's a secure NAS solution, if I should have it on-board, or if it should be an external setup. Maybe wipe the 1 TBs and stick them in RAID-1?
Not sure what your budget is, but I can definitely recommend using OS based RAID 1 using the largest pair of drives you can afford.
OS based RAID 1 lets you completely take a drive out, and use it in another computer, in the worst case scenario, because the 2 drives are identical, and formatted in a way that the OS recognizes natively. Both advantages that neither hardware based RAID nor RAID 5 offer.
If you have about 2 tb of info, I would go with a pair of 4 tb RAID ready drives, like WD reds or Seagate NAS, to give yourself plenty of room to grow. As for reliability worries, all drives can fail - that's why RAID 1 exists in the first place.
Please be aware that any RAID format is no substitute for a backup solution. It won't prevent user errors (e.g. accidently deleting or changing files) or processes (one example is malware which encrypts files and holds them ransom) from modifying them.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I've got plenty of cable management space. I think the modular/semi-modular/non-modular thing is really overblown.
Craziest thing I've heard all day.
Modular, non-modular, semi-modular, it doesn't matter. I have and always will direct those cables to a direct turn behind the mobo tray. Considering I have a bottom-mounted PSU slot, only 1 video card, and only 3 SATA devices to connect, it really doesn't matter.
I mean, if that's your thing, have at it. Though it may not matter to some, I enjoy having the fewest breaks in my power line as possible. The more connections you have, the more opportunities there are for those connections to go bad... and connections will nearly always go bad before a solid line.
as you said, to each their own, but modular power supplies are life changing. Instead of having to run and hide cables behind the motherboard.....you don't have to run cables and hide them behind the motherboard.
as you said, to each their own, but modular power supplies are life changing. Instead of having to run and hide cables behind the motherboard.....you don't have to run cables and hide them behind the motherboard.
You run and hide all your cables behind the motherboard anyway, so the distinction is lost on me. Not having to zip tie a few extra molex connectors just isnt worth the extra point of failure and the extra money to me.
Actual cable management and mobo trays were life changing, and so were SATA cables (those ribbon cables... uuuuuuugh).
Posts
As mentioned, SSDs are one of those upgrades that only provide an upgrade to software that runs on them. In other words, if you only install 4 games on an SSD drive, only those four games will benefit.
So you'll want to get as much use out of it as possible. It's also worth noting that, like normal drives, not all SSDs are born equal--reliability has improved a whole bunch, but quite a few discounts models are that way because of much slower reading and writing speeds. I found this webpage very useful when replacing my dud SSD that was seriously messing up my system.
250GB at least, go with Crucial or Samsung. Put your Windows install on it and programs/games - I think it's worth it to be running whatever you can off of the SSD.
The generally accepted blob size is "pea-sized" followed by attaching the heatsink.
Did you end up sticking with the Corsair H60 cooler? If so, I'm fairly certain it comes with just the right amount of preapplied thermal paste, and from what I've read people think it's high quality as well. You should be fine and dandy just sticking with that, but if you're dead set on applying you're own you'll have to be sure to remove Corsair's preapplied paste first.
I've heard the Intel drives are of really high quality, but they come at a premium.
I'd say Samsung is a good middle-of-the-road.
I ended up going with the CM 212 EVO, all of the reviews I saw stated that the EVO actually outperformed the H60 and was a fair bit quieter, due to the fan being in the middle of the case rather than the edge. My case sits on the floor, with no window, so the pretty-factor didn't really matter to me.
Other than the heat issue it's runnin like a jackrabbit, so I sure hope we can get this settled. The processor is the only thing that's running hot, so if we can get this figured out I'll be pleased as punch.
Critical Failures - Havenhold Campaign • August St. Cloud (Human Ranger)
I followed the "drop" method from Tom's Hardware Guide and it worked pretty well for me.
Another piece of advice that worked out well for me was to warm up the paste beforehand, which is recommended if your particular brand of paste is known to be extremely viscous. I was using Gelid, a brand legendary for its viscosity (and by "legendary", its high viscosity was mentioned in two separate reviews of it that I read), so I took the tube, put it in a ziploc baggy and dunked it in the sous vide tub for something I was cooking that day. >.>
Anyway, it came out great. My new machine will hold 70C running the small FFT test of Prime95 all day erry day.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/what-is-the-best-way-to-apply-thermal-grease-part-1/
Basically...don't put on too much or it insulates. It really doesn't matter too much tho.
If it is only your cpu that is heating up then I wouldn't worry too much about the ambient air temp in the case. If it was getting really hot in there the temps on your GPU and motherboard would be high too.
Make sure your heat sink is seated tightly, but not over tight (make sure your mobo isn't warping with the pressure). If that doesn't help then try cleaning off the paste you put on and reapplying. Maybe with doing the credit card method you got some inadvertent air bubbles when you put the heat sink on.
Hope you can get those temps down!
― John Quincy Adams
Heat-sink cable was between the bottom of the cooler and the cpu :v fuckin lololol
#firsttimebuildproblems
Reapplied thermal paste to both cpu and main cooler plate, let's plug this sumbitch in and see what's what.
I seem to remember Intel drives had superior longevity, but lacked the speed that other brands have. Samsung while still being really reliable are also really fast. I think Anandtech or someone did a constant write test (like, constantly wrote to the drives for a couple of months) and the Intel and I want to say Kingston drives lasted the longest but they all went well beyond their warrantied lifespan.
I have a Corsair Force 3 from like 2011 and its still going strong, and then I've thrown about 3 Samsung Evos into things and I haven't had a single issue with any of them.
The Corsair is noticeably slower than the Samsungs, but its also like 3 years older (and two of the Samsungs are running OSX while the Corsair is now running Windows 10).Granted, my 2009 Macbook Pro (with a Core 2 Duo!) seems just as snappy as my desktop with a 2600k overclocked to 4.5GHz.
I can't recommend the Samsungs enough, to the point where I just threw one in my sister's laptop before she headed off to Africa (which will make tech support.... difficult to say the least).
We've heard/read a lot of first time build stories over the years....and that might be a first.
Did you out thermal paste in the cpu and then put more thermal paste on the heatsink?
If so, too much thermal paste.
Haha! I don't doubt that.
The layer on the cooler was thin enough to see through, I just wanted to make sure we had our bases covered. My husband and I live way the hell out in the country, so we're gonna go over to friend's house later to use their cable, I'll check things out before we leave and see what's up.
The trouble is that if you put too much, it's not "oops I wasted some paste" but rather "oops I've inserted a blanket to hinder heat from going from the CPU to the heatsink."
You could technically run without any paste at all if you very carefully polished both the cpu and heatsink to near perfection, but I don't know anyone crazy enough to do that.
Shiiit. CPU lapping was a major craze back in the late days of the Pentium. Anything to get incremental cooling.
When your CPUs produced enough waste heat to power a small village, you needed every little damn thing you can get.
(Rest in peace Netburst, you grossly inefficient piece of shit you.)
Not bad for upgrades in a PC I built in 2012.
Critical Failures - Havenhold Campaign • August St. Cloud (Human Ranger)
Not necessarily a terrible idea, depending on its wattage and rating/warranty. A good PSU should last you through 2-3 builds, it's probably the component in your system with the most longevity if you buy the right one. What PSU is it?
ANTEC NEO ECO 620C 620W RT. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031
It's worked perfectly for 5 years now.
My 4770k is lapped and de-lidded with Gelid TIM. Ran cooler than a stock 4790k before I OCed it. Now it hits the same temps at 4.1GHz as a 5790k at stock speeds.
XBL : lJesse Custerl | MWO: Jesse Custer | Best vid ever. | 2nd best vid ever.
I'm still using the same Antec 750w bronze rated semi-modular PS from 2011.
You will be fine as long as you probably don't try to push it to it's max.
― John Quincy Adams
Cool, good to know. My new build will probably be even less demanding than my current one. Gonna go for a i5 6600 with a single ssd and probably a gtx 960. Low heat and quiet operation are more important to me than raw power.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992012&cm_re=nzxt_fan_controller-_-11-992-012-_-Product
Does anyone have any experience with this one in particular?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182330
Don't buy non-modular PSUs.
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
I've got plenty of cable management space. I think the modular/semi-modular/non-modular thing is really overblown.
Craziest thing I've heard all day.
Please be aware that any RAID format is no substitute for a backup solution. It won't prevent user errors (e.g. accidently deleting or changing files) or processes (one example is malware which encrypts files and holds them ransom) from modifying them.
Modular, non-modular, semi-modular, it doesn't matter. I have and always will direct those cables to a direct turn behind the mobo tray. Considering I have a bottom-mounted PSU slot, only 1 video card, and only 3 SATA devices to connect, it really doesn't matter.
I mean, if that's your thing, have at it. Though it may not matter to some, I enjoy having the fewest breaks in my power line as possible. The more connections you have, the more opportunities there are for those connections to go bad... and connections will nearly always go bad before a solid line.
You run and hide all your cables behind the motherboard anyway, so the distinction is lost on me. Not having to zip tie a few extra molex connectors just isnt worth the extra point of failure and the extra money to me.
Actual cable management and mobo trays were life changing, and so were SATA cables (those ribbon cables... uuuuuuugh).