This Fizik textured bar tape is comfy and looks great, but, uh... it's developed a personal problem. Seriously, the stuff soaks up stink (and then re-radiates it) way worse than either the Specialized smooth tape or traditional Cinelli. The normal bike cleaning of hitting it with a soapy sponge and spraying it off is not keeping up with the smell. Y'all have any tips before I resort to breaking out the wetsuit cleaner mix, etc.?
I've been thinking about commuting to work on my bike and I was wondering if any other commuters could share their experiences. It's only about 4.5 miles, relatively flat, with light to moderate car traffic.
Since it isn't very far, I'm thinking regular shorts/tshirt are probably okay over putting on a jersey and cycling shorts, though my backpack (work laptop, work cellphone, change of work clothes and shoes) may start to get a little cumbersome. Additionally, I don't own a bike lock so was wondering if there were any recommendations on that front. It probably doesn't need to be the biggest heaviest lock around, as I live and work in a suburban area, and I think there is a place to lock up in the covered garage under the office building away from prying eyes on the streets. I suppose I could bring the bike into the building but I work on the 3rd floor so I'd have to deal with carrying it up an elevator and through the building with multiple card swipe access doors and that sounds like a pain, but probably less of a pain than having to walk home if the bike gets stolen. :P
Definitely get a D-lock if you're not having the bike with you every second. I've never lived in a city where bicycle theft wasn't a serious problem, from podunk towns to major metropoli.
Everything else is kind of a personal choice? Clothing depends on your weather and sweating habits. I bike in my work clothes because I tend not to push myself when commuting, and don't sweat horribly. 4-5 miles isn't a big distance but if it's very hot/humid where you are, you might want to keep a change of clothes at work.
And personally I HATE carrying my laptop on my back, so I'd look into panniers, but if it's a notebook or something pretty lightweight then it's really up to you.
My old 4 mile work commute: regular shorts or jeans (with the right leg pleated and clipped at the hem), t-shirt, messenger bag with laptop, lunch, D lock, spare tube, etc. If the morning was warm I'd bring a second shirt to change into on arrival just in case I got sweaty. I left some basic washing-up stuff and deodorant at work, again, just in case. If I took my nice-looking bike I brought it into the building; otherwise just a D lock + tiny cable lock to secure the other wheel was enough.
I've been thinking about commuting to work on my bike and I was wondering if any other commuters could share their experiences. It's only about 4.5 miles, relatively flat, with light to moderate car traffic.
Since it isn't very far, I'm thinking regular shorts/tshirt are probably okay over putting on a jersey and cycling shorts, though my backpack (work laptop, work cellphone, change of work clothes and shoes) may start to get a little cumbersome. Additionally, I don't own a bike lock so was wondering if there were any recommendations on that front. It probably doesn't need to be the biggest heaviest lock around, as I live and work in a suburban area, and I think there is a place to lock up in the covered garage under the office building away from prying eyes on the streets. I suppose I could bring the bike into the building but I work on the 3rd floor so I'd have to deal with carrying it up an elevator and through the building with multiple card swipe access doors and that sounds like a pain, but probably less of a pain than having to walk home if the bike gets stolen. :P
I commute to work four days a week - it's about ten miles (16 km) and I live in Singapore, so it's around 29 C/83 F every day. My office has shower facilities so I change once I arrive. I don't think you need to kit up in cycling clothes for a work commute like yours, just wear something you don't mind sweating in. I have a really great Timbuk2 backpack I was given that fits my U-lock, my laptop, a change of clothes and shoes, my wallet, my portable tire pump, my glasses, my lunch and my coffee. (It actually fits more than that, but if I were to list all the crap I carry in on Mondays I would be opening myself up to totally justifiable mockery.)
For locking, I personally use a U-lock as well as a cable with loops. I loop the cable around the front wheel, through the frame and then into the U of the U-lock, which I fill with the frame and rear wheel. If a bike thief is dedicated enough they're still going to be able to jack my wheels, but it's a pretty decent pain in the ass for them and my commuter bike isn't that nice.
I prefer that to two U-locks just because I can coil the cable around the frame and then it's not additional weight on my back when I ride...
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
+3
Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
More actual experience sharing:
My commute takes me between 40-50 minutes (depending on traffic and whether I get caught at lights). In general my mood is about a million times better if I cycle in to work than when I take the train, which takes the same amount of time but is just me alternating between standing and walking angrily. It's great for me because it's exercise outside of a dedicated 'now I am exercising' space, too. (Also, sometimes I bike past 6' monitor lizards hanging out on the canal or this lady who walks her pet parrot or people burning joss outside of the temples or old folks doing outdoor jazzercise, and all of that is pretty awesome. I expect your experience will vary based on location in that sense, though.)
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
Rode my bike in Washington DC the other day for the first time, found a hidden temple (which is actually comprised of the original Capitol building's columns). Also, this bike absolutely shreds on gnarly city pavement, especially in NE DC where infrastructure remains a tad Nixonian in its state of neglect. Velocity Chukker rims are heavy but they'll hit curbs and potholes for hours
My neighbor and I have convinced each other to go ride up the last climb of Mountains Of Misery on Sunday. River to mountaintop with the last 4.2 miles being 10% average and pitches to 15%. WHEEEEEEE!
The bike club ran a ride down to the river today where we went to the volunteer rescue squad / fire department down there and ate way too much at their pancake fundraiser. Awesome!
On the way back up a lovely gravel road, one of my riding buddies asked, "so, you want to go bike packing with us on our next trip?" She apparently ended up with (bought from a moving-out-west cohort?) an extra set of panniers after her last trip. Between this and my neighbor (who rode the trans am route a few years ago) poking me about riding the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway / Skyline Drive self-supported... NGGGGGH.
I already sold my bike with carrying capacity! I need another bike like I need a hole in my head! I can't really afford to build up a third bike!
<quietly hides Craigslist and ebay browser tabs>
BIKE GOD GIVE ME STRENGTH. (Or possibly luck to find the right thing for cheap!)
I had to put the bike on the indoor trainer on Sunday because it was too outside for leading the normal club social ride: 44 F / 7 C and fairly windy. Folks from hardier climes will laugh at me but it was too much to ask for a social ride that gets a lot of new riders. (Mostly, we're coming off of a very warm fall and my body is just not ready for riding in that kind of cold yet. I don't even know where my leg warmers are hiding.)
These days I normally give up around -10c (14f) because there's a very convenient bus I can wimp out and take; when the buses weren't so handy I managed to cycle all year round one year, but that was Too Cold on some days. -27c (-16f) was the coldest it got, and when I got to work I genuinely thought I was going to freeze before I could get my hands working enough to swipe the access card and let me into the building.
Also, when it gets that cold, traffic lights / stop signs are a much bigger hassle, not just because stopping/starting is slipperier, but because I have to remember to turn my head to the side before exhaling or my glasses fog over pretty much instantly, and cycling in the cold and ice _and blind_ is just too much to deal with.
ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
I actually want to get into cold weather riding this year. I didn't get enough in over the Summer because it was so hot and I need to make up for it. Anyone got suggestions for essential gear? Anything beyond thermal skivvies, wool socks, and breathable gloves?
I actually want to get into cold weather riding this year. I didn't get enough in over the Summer because it was so hot and I need to make up for it. Anyone got suggestions for essential gear? Anything beyond thermal skivvies, wool socks, and breathable gloves?
If you have clipless pedals, then boot covers like this sort of thing helps to keep the warmth in, but will let you keep clipping in and out, rather than switching to clunkier winter boots and flat pedals.
(though you'll want to make sure you _can_ clip in and out when there's snow clogging up the bottom of your shoes; this is why I have Time ATACs, because they're a simple enough mechanism that I can just kick away at them for a couple of seconds and clear things out well enough -- SPDs were more adjustable, but also more prone to getting frozen up)
If you get cold hands, then hand covers like the one I posted above, or pogies, is worth a try; I made myself some pogies years ago, but they didn't work for me because I have enough turns between home and work that I have to signal a lot, and I found it too awkward getting my hands in and out each time.
Ear covers of some sort; I have a thin jacket that I wear along with other layers purely so I can tuck the hood under my helmet to keep my ears from freezing off -- headbands / lots of other things will do, though[ You can get helmet covers like this to keep the rest of your head warm, but it doesn't help ears.
Otherwise, obviously, multiple thin layers rather than one thick one, so you can adjust when your body gets warmed up. And on that note, don't be surprised if it's harder to get started than usual, because it's physically harder to get your muscles warmed up when it's colder outside..
Depending on road conditions, be more-than-usually aware of cars -- I've had a couple of times when I knew I had the right of way at a junction, but I stopped anyway, and the car at the cross-street saw me, hit the brakes, and slid all the way through the intersection with wheels locked up. So A for effort, E for actual effect, sadly, and I was glad that I wasn't in its way as it slid past.. Same thing applies if you're the person trying to stop in a hurry, of course.
+2
Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
edited November 2017
I tuned my bike on the weekend, swapped out the tires (or tyres, here) for a size smaller width, replaced the brake pads and the grips.
I'm having some weird problems when shifting, though, and maybe someone could offer input - when I downshift to like, 4th or 3rd while putting a lot of tension on the chain, the chain skips and... stutters, I guess? Is this because I need to adjust my chain tension, or could it be an issue with the teeth on one or two of the cogs? It shifts properly (more or less) if I shift before I hit the grade or if I'm just coasting.
Lost Salient on
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
Chain tension (b limit screw) is rarely a problem. If it ONLY self-shifts or skips under heavy load, check the wear of the chain (and also the cassette teeth). 98% of the time that's the problem. Either the chain / cassette is worn or something in the rear triangle is flexing that shouldn't be flexing (i.e., a loose axle or cassette, damaged chainstay, etc.).
Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
That's kind of what I had figured. It only happens under a heavy load and only shifting to 4th and 3rd. Which is funny because I don't generally ride in those gears except going uphill, aaaaand both Austin and Singapore are pretty damn flat.
Anyway, thanks! It's just a six-speed commuter bike; how much do you suppose a reasonable cost to replace the cassette and chain should be, if that's what needs to happen?
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
I'm a big fan of thin woolen Buffs to cover neck, ears, and sometimes face while cycling in the cold. Helmet helps keeping it in place.
The most annoying thing here is that the city prefers using giant amount of salt instead of grit/sand in the winter. It turns the ice/snow into slush that then freezes into undrivable ice bumbs
The most annoying thing about biking in the winter is that drivers and pedestrians apparently have no sense of object permanence, so as soon as the bike path isn't visible, to them it ceases to exist.
Which is the reason I stop riding my bike when it snows.
In a way I sort of enjoy cold weather riding in a somewhat snobbish way. Suddenly the trails are much clearer and you feel significantly more dedicated than all those people warm at home drinking coffee. :pop:
Getting all the correct gear was absolutely critical to enjoying it, though. Those little booties are a life saver, and I have multiple layers that can be manipulated. One big thing is planning for your ride home being a different temperature than your ride in.
oh, heaven's, yes -- the change of seasons when it's -8 in the morning and +8 in the afternoon are a real pain for cycling home with a bag stuffed full of gloves and jackets and stuff.
All that said, it's very possible to cycle in winter just by putting on big winter boots and coats and slogging away -- it's not as easy, but it's definitely possible. The toughest people I see around here are the folks on beat-up old department store bikes with garbage bags full of refundable bottles/cans hanging from each handlebar, cycling down the chewed-up alleyways in -20 to go bottle picking -- who do _not_ have fancy winter gear at all.
(okay, not quite; the toughest guy I've seen cycling was the guy who I noticed, for some reason, was cycling along with a crutch held in each hand sort of sticking off the front of the handlebars. Then I noticed he only had one leg.)
That's kind of what I had figured. It only happens under a heavy load and only shifting to 4th and 3rd. Which is funny because I don't generally ride in those gears except going uphill, aaaaand both Austin and Singapore are pretty damn flat.
Anyway, thanks! It's just a six-speed commuter bike; how much do you suppose a reasonable cost to replace the cassette and chain should be, if that's what needs to happen?
Here a name-brand 6-speed freewheel will run you < $20. A 6-/7-speed chain < $10. Labor would be something like a half hour or less, so < $30.
A good shop will be able to look at the cassette and measure the chain length in about 30 seconds (assuming it isn't plastered with nasty old grease). They'll be able to verify if it's that or if it's something more subtle.
Good news:
1. I carry a couple small zip ties in my seat bag.
2. This was a thin spoke on the drive side so the wheel didn't go much out of true. I loosened up the rear brake adjuster a few turns to keep it from rubbing and rode the last 4 miles home without much stress. (Other than hearing the loose spoke nipple rattling around inside the rim.)
Bad news:
1. Wrong shop manual: the Specialized shop docs here show only the base-model wheels and thus calls out the wrong spoke. (Thankfully the Specialized shop here in town is really good and they knew who to call to get answers.)
2. What spoke? It turns out DT Swiss no longer makes these spokes.
3. What nipple? It turns out DT Swiss also no longer makes this style of internal spoke nipples. (And you really, really shouldn't re-use aluminum spoke nipples, even assuming I could get the broken spoke end out.)
4. Stupid internal! I'm going to have to buy $10 worth of spoke wrench because the square tops of the nipples are buried inside the rim shell.
The nipples I can find NOS on ebay. Whew. Still dunno what I'm going to do about the replacement bladed spoke being a different width. I think I'm just going to have to put up with it and hope that the new spoke is happy with the tension required to replace its predecessor. :sad:
You joke but my second reaction to finding out the nipples were going to be a PITA to find was, "well, there is that set of Zipp 303 NSWs I keep lusting after..."
(I like those Cosmics a lot, too, and they're definitely a better value and likely what I'd end up with.)
But I gotta get these wheels fixed anyway because the repair-er in me is not just going to leave them busted for want of a spoke. So I'd really just be putting the problem off.
The thing is... I've already got a set of bulletproof standard wheels on the other bike. They're great wheels. I love 'em to death.
And these Roval Fusee SLs are actually damn near bulletproof. They're 6 years old and have never required truing. (They still had the original Roval PU rim tape on them yesterday and I would've had to remove that to get to the nipples.) The front was dead straight and the rear had under 0.9mm TIR last time I checked them.
I've taken them on a lot of gravel farm and forest service roads.
I've ridden through fields and have bunny-hopped countless potholes and bridge joints with them. Not bad for a 680g front and 850g rear (with tape)!
I just didn't plan for the fact that DT Swiss would just stop making the spokes and nipples. Now that I know that, I'll stock up on some parts. And if ever I have to rebuild them I'll switch the nipples over to DT ProLock Hiddens or Enves or the like and stick some current bladed spokes in them. It's just having one mis-matched part is slightly annoying.
Posts
Since it isn't very far, I'm thinking regular shorts/tshirt are probably okay over putting on a jersey and cycling shorts, though my backpack (work laptop, work cellphone, change of work clothes and shoes) may start to get a little cumbersome. Additionally, I don't own a bike lock so was wondering if there were any recommendations on that front. It probably doesn't need to be the biggest heaviest lock around, as I live and work in a suburban area, and I think there is a place to lock up in the covered garage under the office building away from prying eyes on the streets. I suppose I could bring the bike into the building but I work on the 3rd floor so I'd have to deal with carrying it up an elevator and through the building with multiple card swipe access doors and that sounds like a pain, but probably less of a pain than having to walk home if the bike gets stolen. :P
Everything else is kind of a personal choice? Clothing depends on your weather and sweating habits. I bike in my work clothes because I tend not to push myself when commuting, and don't sweat horribly. 4-5 miles isn't a big distance but if it's very hot/humid where you are, you might want to keep a change of clothes at work.
And personally I HATE carrying my laptop on my back, so I'd look into panniers, but if it's a notebook or something pretty lightweight then it's really up to you.
80, or 800?
Because there's a 24 hours of Lemons team that put a snowmobile engine in a Miata and it does well.
These two, that's who.
I commute to work four days a week - it's about ten miles (16 km) and I live in Singapore, so it's around 29 C/83 F every day. My office has shower facilities so I change once I arrive. I don't think you need to kit up in cycling clothes for a work commute like yours, just wear something you don't mind sweating in. I have a really great Timbuk2 backpack I was given that fits my U-lock, my laptop, a change of clothes and shoes, my wallet, my portable tire pump, my glasses, my lunch and my coffee. (It actually fits more than that, but if I were to list all the crap I carry in on Mondays I would be opening myself up to totally justifiable mockery.)
For locking, I personally use a U-lock as well as a cable with loops. I loop the cable around the front wheel, through the frame and then into the U of the U-lock, which I fill with the frame and rear wheel. If a bike thief is dedicated enough they're still going to be able to jack my wheels, but it's a pretty decent pain in the ass for them and my commuter bike isn't that nice.
I prefer that to two U-locks just because I can coil the cable around the frame and then it's not additional weight on my back when I ride...
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
My commute takes me between 40-50 minutes (depending on traffic and whether I get caught at lights). In general my mood is about a million times better if I cycle in to work than when I take the train, which takes the same amount of time but is just me alternating between standing and walking angrily. It's great for me because it's exercise outside of a dedicated 'now I am exercising' space, too. (Also, sometimes I bike past 6' monitor lizards hanging out on the canal or this lady who walks her pet parrot or people burning joss outside of the temples or old folks doing outdoor jazzercise, and all of that is pretty awesome. I expect your experience will vary based on location in that sense, though.)
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
Rode my bike in Washington DC the other day for the first time, found a hidden temple (which is actually comprised of the original Capitol building's columns). Also, this bike absolutely shreds on gnarly city pavement, especially in NE DC where infrastructure remains a tad Nixonian in its state of neglect. Velocity Chukker rims are heavy but they'll hit curbs and potholes for hours
Gah, I used to do 150 miles a week jsut commuting - 50 miles should be a breeze.
On the way back up a lovely gravel road, one of my riding buddies asked, "so, you want to go bike packing with us on our next trip?" She apparently ended up with (bought from a moving-out-west cohort?) an extra set of panniers after her last trip. Between this and my neighbor (who rode the trans am route a few years ago) poking me about riding the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway / Skyline Drive self-supported... NGGGGGH.
I already sold my bike with carrying capacity! I need another bike like I need a hole in my head! I can't really afford to build up a third bike!
<quietly hides Craigslist and ebay browser tabs>
BIKE GOD GIVE ME STRENGTH. (Or possibly luck to find the right thing for cheap!)
Also, when it gets that cold, traffic lights / stop signs are a much bigger hassle, not just because stopping/starting is slipperier, but because I have to remember to turn my head to the side before exhaling or my glasses fog over pretty much instantly, and cycling in the cold and ice _and blind_ is just too much to deal with.
Highly recommended for hands in the cold, though: http://barbra.ca/
(edit: also recommended: https://www.amazon.ca/Frostbike-Pain-Numbness-Winter-Cycling/dp/1771600489 -- that guy lives about three blocks from me, so his advice is definitely applicable for local conditions)
If you have clipless pedals, then boot covers like this sort of thing helps to keep the warmth in, but will let you keep clipping in and out, rather than switching to clunkier winter boots and flat pedals.
(though you'll want to make sure you _can_ clip in and out when there's snow clogging up the bottom of your shoes; this is why I have Time ATACs, because they're a simple enough mechanism that I can just kick away at them for a couple of seconds and clear things out well enough -- SPDs were more adjustable, but also more prone to getting frozen up)
If you get cold hands, then hand covers like the one I posted above, or pogies, is worth a try; I made myself some pogies years ago, but they didn't work for me because I have enough turns between home and work that I have to signal a lot, and I found it too awkward getting my hands in and out each time.
Ear covers of some sort; I have a thin jacket that I wear along with other layers purely so I can tuck the hood under my helmet to keep my ears from freezing off -- headbands / lots of other things will do, though[ You can get helmet covers like this to keep the rest of your head warm, but it doesn't help ears.
Otherwise, obviously, multiple thin layers rather than one thick one, so you can adjust when your body gets warmed up. And on that note, don't be surprised if it's harder to get started than usual, because it's physically harder to get your muscles warmed up when it's colder outside..
Depending on road conditions, be more-than-usually aware of cars -- I've had a couple of times when I knew I had the right of way at a junction, but I stopped anyway, and the car at the cross-street saw me, hit the brakes, and slid all the way through the intersection with wheels locked up. So A for effort, E for actual effect, sadly, and I was glad that I wasn't in its way as it slid past.. Same thing applies if you're the person trying to stop in a hurry, of course.
I'm having some weird problems when shifting, though, and maybe someone could offer input - when I downshift to like, 4th or 3rd while putting a lot of tension on the chain, the chain skips and... stutters, I guess? Is this because I need to adjust my chain tension, or could it be an issue with the teeth on one or two of the cogs? It shifts properly (more or less) if I shift before I hit the grade or if I'm just coasting.
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
Anyway, thanks! It's just a six-speed commuter bike; how much do you suppose a reasonable cost to replace the cassette and chain should be, if that's what needs to happen?
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
The most annoying thing here is that the city prefers using giant amount of salt instead of grit/sand in the winter. It turns the ice/snow into slush that then freezes into undrivable ice bumbs
Which is the reason I stop riding my bike when it snows.
Getting all the correct gear was absolutely critical to enjoying it, though. Those little booties are a life saver, and I have multiple layers that can be manipulated. One big thing is planning for your ride home being a different temperature than your ride in.
All that said, it's very possible to cycle in winter just by putting on big winter boots and coats and slogging away -- it's not as easy, but it's definitely possible. The toughest people I see around here are the folks on beat-up old department store bikes with garbage bags full of refundable bottles/cans hanging from each handlebar, cycling down the chewed-up alleyways in -20 to go bottle picking -- who do _not_ have fancy winter gear at all.
A good shop will be able to look at the cassette and measure the chain length in about 30 seconds (assuming it isn't plastered with nasty old grease). They'll be able to verify if it's that or if it's something more subtle.
Good news:
1. I carry a couple small zip ties in my seat bag.
2. This was a thin spoke on the drive side so the wheel didn't go much out of true. I loosened up the rear brake adjuster a few turns to keep it from rubbing and rode the last 4 miles home without much stress. (Other than hearing the loose spoke nipple rattling around inside the rim.)
Bad news:
1. Wrong shop manual: the Specialized shop docs here show only the base-model wheels and thus calls out the wrong spoke. (Thankfully the Specialized shop here in town is really good and they knew who to call to get answers.)
2. What spoke? It turns out DT Swiss no longer makes these spokes.
3. What nipple? It turns out DT Swiss also no longer makes this style of internal spoke nipples. (And you really, really shouldn't re-use aluminum spoke nipples, even assuming I could get the broken spoke end out.)
4. Stupid internal! I'm going to have to buy $10 worth of spoke wrench because the square tops of the nipples are buried inside the rim shell.
The nipples I can find NOS on ebay. Whew. Still dunno what I'm going to do about the replacement bladed spoke being a different width. I think I'm just going to have to put up with it and hope that the new spoke is happy with the tension required to replace its predecessor. :sad:
(I like those Cosmics a lot, too, and they're definitely a better value and likely what I'd end up with.)
But I gotta get these wheels fixed anyway because the repair-er in me is not just going to leave them busted for want of a spoke. So I'd really just be putting the problem off.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product2_10053_10052_582915_-1
And these Roval Fusee SLs are actually damn near bulletproof. They're 6 years old and have never required truing. (They still had the original Roval PU rim tape on them yesterday and I would've had to remove that to get to the nipples.) The front was dead straight and the rear had under 0.9mm TIR last time I checked them.
I've taken them on a lot of gravel farm and forest service roads.
I've ridden through fields and have bunny-hopped countless potholes and bridge joints with them. Not bad for a 680g front and 850g rear (with tape)!
I just didn't plan for the fact that DT Swiss would just stop making the spokes and nipples. Now that I know that, I'll stock up on some parts. And if ever I have to rebuild them I'll switch the nipples over to DT ProLock Hiddens or Enves or the like and stick some current bladed spokes in them. It's just having one mis-matched part is slightly annoying.
Ride safe!