Sim steering is certainly more touchy off road and after jumps, but I think I might just try and get used to it since it feels much better 90% of the time.
I do drive 100% AWD cars in horizon so that could help.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
@Knight_ I tried turning on sim steering and it actually feels better and less floaty. I don't end up murdering myself like I do with sim steering in Forza Motorsports. Maybe try that before giving up on the game?
@acidlacedpenguin I created a championship in Surfers Paradise just for you.
I love tuning! There are plenty of guides google-able but to really understand it you've got to experiment. (I'm focusing on how to tune settings, not what to buy) It is so much easier now that you can tune from the pause menu instead of having to quit and reload, hah! In Motorsport you can go into a lot more detail but here in Horizon I think the most important things to have correct are:
Gearing (requires Race transmission)
Anti-Roll Bars (requires race anti-roll bars)
Rebound & Bump damping
Let's explore the extremes of gearing first. Go out on the highway and then try setting the final gearing to its maximum and running through the gears a couple times. Then repeat with final gearing at the minimum. There will be a very big difference! Now for a good baseline adjust the final drive until all the little white lines for the gears are visible in the box in bottom right. Then run up through the gears a couple times again. Unless you're in a super high power car it's always going to be a compromise between acceleration and top speed. My B-class BRZ can have a theoretical top speed of 165, but it will take it miles and miles to get there. Better to gear it more for acceleration where it's top speed may be "limited" to 150 or so, but it can get there a lot quicker.
For fine tuning, are there gears where the car either (a) blasts through so fast you barely have time to shift or (b) drags and takes forever, barely accelerating? In the case of (a) you might want to make the gear longer (less steep on the chart, smaller number). For (b) you want to do the opposite, make the offending gear shorter (more steep on the chart, higher number). Remember to adjust the gears adjacent to it as necessary. For off-road you might need to adjust the gearing steeper to deal with steep hills, getting in water, etc.
An aside on springs: You can start with setting your spring strength based on the car's neutral weight distribution. Go to the garage and write down the car's weight and weight balance percentage, e.g. 2733 lbs and 55%. If i multiply 2733 by 0.55 I get 1503 lbs on the front wheels, divided by 2 (two wheels) is 752 lbs. To get the rear I subtract, (2733-1503=1230) and again divide by 2 for 615 lbs on the rear wheels. So I'll set my springs to 752 front and 615 rear.
The anti-roll bars control how much the car can twist, and the transfer of weight to the outside wheels in cornering. The tricky part is that the rear bar affects the front end of the car and vice versa. A town, city or playground would be a good place to test this, as you want to repeat corners. Again explore the extremes - try front full stiff with rear soft before trying front soft and rear stiff. With a soft front bar and fully stiff rear bar it will really want to oversteer. Pay attention to both throttle shut and accelerating behavior, as the differential will affect how it turns (and how it turns neutral may be different than what it does when you accelerate).
Rebound & Bump Damping does affect cornering but in Horizon I'm mainly focused on how it affects taking bumps and jumps. Almost every car I've gotten into has had way too little rebound damping, which is how much resistance the car has to bouncing back off the shocks after they compress. I'd hit the off-road areas in the outback in a rally or off-road car to play with this. Experiment again, with minimum rebound and bump, maximum both, and max'ing one with the other minimized. Once you've gotten a feel for what they do, a good starting point for off-road is fairly soft bump damping with enough rebound to keep the car from pogo'ing off again when you land. Playing with the damping can also strongly affect how the car goes off a jump (nose high or low). Tune it right and you'll land jumps much more cleanly, with the car more settled for whatever is coming next.
Take that same attitude into every other setting and don't be afraid to play. Sometimes it'll be overwhelming or a car will just feel terrible; when you run into that I suggest googling a guide for that specific car and what you're trying to accomplish (i.e. speed, off road, or drift) to get a starting point. You'll also learn from seeing how other people tune! Ultimately it's free speed, as the suspension and diff upgrades are almost no PI and tuning the car to turn well and suit your style can give huge increases in corner speed (and many people don't bother touching it). Carving through a turn much faster than online opponents in a car you tuned feels really good.
+5
HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
my eyes glazed over about halfway through the post
I love tuning! There are plenty of guides google-able but to really understand it you've got to experiment. (I'm focusing on how to tune settings, not what to buy) It is so much easier now that you can tune from the pause menu instead of having to quit and reload, hah! In Motorsport you can go into a lot more detail but here in Horizon I think the most important things to have correct are:
Gearing (requires Race transmission)
Anti-Roll Bars (requires race anti-roll bars)
Rebound & Bump damping
Let's explore the extremes of gearing first. Go out on the highway and then try setting the final gearing to its maximum and running through the gears a couple times. Then repeat with final gearing at the minimum. There will be a very big difference! Now for a good baseline adjust the final drive until all the little white lines for the gears are visible in the box in bottom right. Then run up through the gears a couple times again. Unless you're in a super high power car it's always going to be a compromise between acceleration and top speed. My B-class BRZ can have a theoretical top speed of 165, but it will take it miles and miles to get there. Better to gear it more for acceleration where it's top speed may be "limited" to 150 or so, but it can get there a lot quicker.
For fine tuning, are there gears where the car either (a) blasts through so fast you barely have time to shift or (b) drags and takes forever, barely accelerating? In the case of (a) you might want to make the gear longer (less steep on the chart, smaller number). For (b) you want to do the opposite, make the offending gear shorter (more steep on the chart, higher number). Remember to adjust the gears adjacent to it as necessary. For off-road you might need to adjust the gearing steeper to deal with steep hills, getting in water, etc.
An aside on springs: You can start with setting your spring strength based on the car's neutral weight distribution. Go to the garage and write down the car's weight and weight balance percentage, e.g. 2733 lbs and 55%. If i multiply 2733 by 0.55 I get 1503 lbs on the front wheels, divided by 2 (two wheels) is 752 lbs. To get the rear I subtract, (2733-1503=1230) and again divide by 2 for 615 lbs on the rear wheels. So I'll set my springs to 752 front and 615 rear.
The anti-roll bars control how much the car can twist, and the transfer of weight to the outside wheels in cornering. The tricky part is that the rear bar affects the front end of the car and vice versa. A town, city or playground would be a good place to test this, as you want to repeat corners. Again explore the extremes - try front full stiff with rear soft before trying front soft and rear stiff. With a soft front bar and fully stiff rear bar it will really want to oversteer. Pay attention to both throttle shut and accelerating behavior, as the differential will affect how it turns (and how it turns neutral may be different than what it does when you accelerate).
Rebound & Bump Damping does affect cornering but in Horizon I'm mainly focused on how it affects taking bumps and jumps. Almost every car I've gotten into has had way too little rebound damping, which is how much resistance the car has to bouncing back off the shocks after they compress. I'd hit the off-road areas in the outback in a rally or off-road car to play with this. Experiment again, with minimum rebound and bump, maximum both, and max'ing one with the other minimized. Once you've gotten a feel for what they do, a good starting point for off-road is fairly soft bump damping with enough rebound to keep the car from pogo'ing off again when you land. Playing with the damping can also strongly affect how the car goes off a jump (nose high or low). Tune it right and you'll land jumps much more cleanly, with the car more settled for whatever is coming next.
Take that same attitude into every other setting and don't be afraid to play. Sometimes it'll be overwhelming or a car will just feel terrible; when you run into that I suggest googling a guide for that specific car and what you're trying to accomplish (i.e. speed, off road, or drift) to get a starting point. You'll also learn from seeing how other people tune! Ultimately it's free speed, as the suspension and diff upgrades are almost no PI and tuning the car to turn well and suit your style can give huge increases in corner speed (and many people don't bother touching it). Carving through a turn much faster than online opponents in a car you tuned feels really good.
Thanks for the explanation; the extremes approach is pretty enticing.
I understand gearing and springs, though a lot of auto tunes make first gear pretty useless.. I don't know what oversteer or understeer is or feels like, or how to gauge neutral vs throttle cornering, because I don't know how to corner. I just drift by letting go of throttle, tapping e-brake a split second after starting to turn, then after I'm into the drift proper I try to steer in the opposite direction of the turn to level off while punching on the gas once I'm sure I won't hit the wall. So if I turn right, I would let go of the gas, start to turn right, e brake, then turn left and punch the gas. I know of no other way to corner and do it for everything over like 25 degrees. What are objective measures of cornering quality?
Rebound and bump, I guess I'll have to find a convenient jump. A car that can't land a jump is useless to me.
Floor height is something I'm perpetually scared of, since a lot of my cars are useless on dirt and I don't know why. I want to be able to off road a little bit and not lose the race because my fender hit a bit of gravel, or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.
Any archetypal tracks you use to gauge level and variable asphalt?
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
0
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
oh my god I legit laughed my goddamn face off when I saw the the "widebody" mod for the reliant
Have a car you enjoy maxed out for every class, the variety is fantastic and a bunch of D class cars pootling around the track can be just as much fun as a 250 mph behemoth. I literally lol when I'm racing in that stupid looking Italian bubble car.
Forza Horizon is so arcade-y that tuning doesn't make a huge difference IMO. In Motorsports I can change a sway bar setting from 14 to 15 and notice the difference. In Horizon I could change it from 14 to 22 and not really notice anything changed. So if you do mess with tuning in Horizon you really will have to try and move the sliders A LOT more than is suggested in the above guide.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
+1
Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
I love tuning! There are plenty of guides google-able but to really understand it you've got to experiment. (I'm focusing on how to tune settings, not what to buy) It is so much easier now that you can tune from the pause menu instead of having to quit and reload, hah! In Motorsport you can go into a lot more detail but here in Horizon I think the most important things to have correct are:
Gearing (requires Race transmission)
Anti-Roll Bars (requires race anti-roll bars)
Rebound & Bump damping
Let's explore the extremes of gearing first. Go out on the highway and then try setting the final gearing to its maximum and running through the gears a couple times. Then repeat with final gearing at the minimum. There will be a very big difference! Now for a good baseline adjust the final drive until all the little white lines for the gears are visible in the box in bottom right. Then run up through the gears a couple times again. Unless you're in a super high power car it's always going to be a compromise between acceleration and top speed. My B-class BRZ can have a theoretical top speed of 165, but it will take it miles and miles to get there. Better to gear it more for acceleration where it's top speed may be "limited" to 150 or so, but it can get there a lot quicker.
For fine tuning, are there gears where the car either (a) blasts through so fast you barely have time to shift or (b) drags and takes forever, barely accelerating? In the case of (a) you might want to make the gear longer (less steep on the chart, smaller number). For (b) you want to do the opposite, make the offending gear shorter (more steep on the chart, higher number). Remember to adjust the gears adjacent to it as necessary. For off-road you might need to adjust the gearing steeper to deal with steep hills, getting in water, etc.
An aside on springs: You can start with setting your spring strength based on the car's neutral weight distribution. Go to the garage and write down the car's weight and weight balance percentage, e.g. 2733 lbs and 55%. If i multiply 2733 by 0.55 I get 1503 lbs on the front wheels, divided by 2 (two wheels) is 752 lbs. To get the rear I subtract, (2733-1503=1230) and again divide by 2 for 615 lbs on the rear wheels. So I'll set my springs to 752 front and 615 rear.
The anti-roll bars control how much the car can twist, and the transfer of weight to the outside wheels in cornering. The tricky part is that the rear bar affects the front end of the car and vice versa. A town, city or playground would be a good place to test this, as you want to repeat corners. Again explore the extremes - try front full stiff with rear soft before trying front soft and rear stiff. With a soft front bar and fully stiff rear bar it will really want to oversteer. Pay attention to both throttle shut and accelerating behavior, as the differential will affect how it turns (and how it turns neutral may be different than what it does when you accelerate).
Rebound & Bump Damping does affect cornering but in Horizon I'm mainly focused on how it affects taking bumps and jumps. Almost every car I've gotten into has had way too little rebound damping, which is how much resistance the car has to bouncing back off the shocks after they compress. I'd hit the off-road areas in the outback in a rally or off-road car to play with this. Experiment again, with minimum rebound and bump, maximum both, and max'ing one with the other minimized. Once you've gotten a feel for what they do, a good starting point for off-road is fairly soft bump damping with enough rebound to keep the car from pogo'ing off again when you land. Playing with the damping can also strongly affect how the car goes off a jump (nose high or low). Tune it right and you'll land jumps much more cleanly, with the car more settled for whatever is coming next.
Take that same attitude into every other setting and don't be afraid to play. Sometimes it'll be overwhelming or a car will just feel terrible; when you run into that I suggest googling a guide for that specific car and what you're trying to accomplish (i.e. speed, off road, or drift) to get a starting point. You'll also learn from seeing how other people tune! Ultimately it's free speed, as the suspension and diff upgrades are almost no PI and tuning the car to turn well and suit your style can give huge increases in corner speed (and many people don't bother touching it). Carving through a turn much faster than online opponents in a car you tuned feels really good.
Thanks for the explanation; the extremes approach is pretty enticing.
I understand gearing and springs, though a lot of auto tunes make first gear pretty useless.. I don't know what oversteer or understeer is or feels like, or how to gauge neutral vs throttle cornering, because I don't know how to corner. I just drift by letting go of throttle, tapping e-brake a split second after starting to turn, then after I'm into the drift proper I try to steer in the opposite direction of the turn to level off while punching on the gas once I'm sure I won't hit the wall. So if I turn right, I would let go of the gas, start to turn right, e brake, then turn left and punch the gas. I know of no other way to corner and do it for everything over like 25 degrees. What are objective measures of cornering quality?
Rebound and bump, I guess I'll have to find a convenient jump. A car that can't land a jump is useless to me.
Floor height is something I'm perpetually scared of, since a lot of my cars are useless on dirt and I don't know why. I want to be able to off road a little bit and not lose the race because my fender hit a bit of gravel, or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.
Any archetypal tracks you use to gauge level and variable asphalt?
I don't have a track I use in Horizon - I usually just drive the car around for a minute or two and feel how it's handling in between changes. In Motorsport I'd be on a track comparing lap times in addition to feel but like CC said, the effects are a lot more muted in Horizon's model.
The most important measurement of how well a corner was driven is how quickly you went from entrance to exit, and your exit speed. Casually, I measure it by how much speed I can carry through turns. Drifting is fun but it's almost always a very slow way to go through the turn. Any skidding or spinning of tires is wasted grip and it's keeping you from effectively braking on the way in and accelerating on the way out. You want to slow down ahead of time so that you can coast or accelerate through the turn. Here are a couple great pages that won't take too long to read on the basics of cornering: http://www.drivingfast.net/techniques/racing-line.htm http://www.drivingfast.net/techniques/track-corner.htm
Understeer is when the car doesn't want to turn - you try to turn but the front end pushes and the car keeps going straighter than you want it to. Any car will understeer if you're just plain going too fast when you try to turn. Oversteer is the opposite, the back end comes swinging around when you don't want it to (often when you add throttle in a RWD).
Cars being useless on dirt is probably related to tire compound; I'm not taking anything A-class or higher into off-road that isn't on rally tires. Another factor would be the auto upgrades throwing on race suspension and slamming them to minimum ride height with really stiff springs. The car's suspension can't handle the bumps/jumps/vertical loading and feels like a brick slamming off of everything with no grip.
Red Raevyn on
0
The DeliveratorSlingin PiesThe California BurbclavesRegistered Userregular
The first car pack has leaked, and I'm excited to drive a ridiculous crown vic around. I guess some of the other cars are neat too.
HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
2010 crown vic police interceptor is fun but i'd rather have like a 1995 or something. just a huge boat driving around like you see in so many movies from the 90s and 2000s.
somebody please make this happen
+3
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
2010 crown vic police interceptor is fun but i'd rather have like a 1995 or something. just a huge boat driving around like you see in so many movies from the 90s and 2000s.
somebody please make this happen
I have a 2005 Crown Vic (Same body style and such as the 2010). Trust me, it's still a damn boat. They're all built off the same platform.
acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
edited October 2016
I'm not sure if they're really *built* off the same platform, more like chiseled out of the same solid block of granite
that's why Ford finally retired it... they ran out of granite.
acidlacedpenguin on
GT: Acidboogie PSNid: AcidLacedPenguiN
+2
Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
Yeah googling the two the difference is pretty much uglier headlights and wheels on the older one haha. That should be a blast. I wish there was a way to go directly to playground style games, I haven't gotten to play infected and such since Horizon 1 and I can't get any online adventure groups to vote for it :{
What I do is be generally useless until everyone leaves and I'm the host
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
So, after quite a bit of experimentation with tuning, I've realized a problem I have with a lot of the cars
I tend to have two throttle settings: floor it and foot off the gas. However, I've noticed that for several cars, like the Dodge Challenger Hellcat and the Koenigsegg Regera and my Horizon Edition Jaguar Type 7, First gear shoots up to redline in like .01 milliseconds no matter how long I set it, and the transmission doesn't shift until the car goes over 45mph, which it can't really do well when the wheels are spinning uselessly against the road. Plus, it makes the tire temperature shoot up to 300 degrees, making the rear tires double the temp of the front tires, at which point I lose all control over the car unless I stop completely.
The only solution I've found is to really, really carefully press the throttle so it doesn't redline and stall out through the first like 5 gears (I have like 2 degrees of trigger rotation freedom), but that's really difficult to do when I'm doing anything else. What's wrong with my car?
Paladin on
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
So, after quite a bit of experimentation with tuning, I've realized a problem I have with a lot of the cars
I tend to have two throttle settings: floor it and foot off the gas. However, I've noticed that for several cars, like the Dodge Challenger Hellcat and the Koenigsegg Regera and my Horizon Edition Jaguar Type 7, First gear shoots up to redline in like .01 milliseconds no matter how long I set it, and the transmission doesn't shift until the car goes over 45mph, which it can't really do well when the wheels are spinning uselessly against the road. Plus, it makes the tire temperature shoot up to 300 degrees, making the rear tires double the temp of the front tires, at which point I lose all control over the car unless I stop completely.
The only solution I've found is to really, really carefully press the throttle so it doesn't redline and stall out through the first like 5 gears (I have like 2 degrees of trigger rotation freedom), but that's really difficult to do when I'm doing anything else. What's wrong with my car?
Try using a race differential and set the acceleration setting to something like 5-10% for super high powered cars. That usually works in Motorsports but I haven't really tried it in Horizon.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
@Paladin There are also some cars that just need to have TCS turned on imo, if you want the lower gears to be worthwhile. I was talking about zipping through the gear when you have traction, if you're doing a burnout you can spin it up regardless of what you do with the gearing.
Bear is Driving, you show up in my game a lot and now that I've seen your icon I picture it inside the car every time your drivatar goes by. It cracks me up.
Police Interceptor is going to make online free roam super fun.
Oh god it even has lights for a bodykit.
Link to the Forza news on the pack and list, for those who can't watch the video/go to the link:
2016 Aston Martin Vulcan
2000 Lotus 340R
2016 Pagani Huayra BC
2010 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
2016 GTA Spano
2016 BMW M2 Coupé
1976 Jeep CJ5 Renegade
– this latest update also includes numerous improvements for both the Xbox One and Windows 10 versions of Forza Horizon 3. These improvements include:
Windows 10
- Fixed a performance issue on Windows 10 that caused stuttering with high or unlocked framerates on certain hardware configurations
- Improved stability on Windows 10
- Disable mouse move detection while driving
- The Windows 10 video options screen will no longer ask users to save when no changes have been made
- Additional options have been added to the Windows 10 Advanced Controller Menu. These include:
o Steering wheel sensitivity
o Invert Force Feedback
o Centre spring scale
o Damping scale
- Fixed a problem where pre-order cars and the Halo Warthog were not appearing in the Windows 10 version of the game for some players
Wheel Improvements
- Logitech G27 is now registered correctly on Windows 10, so the correct default mapping will be applied
- All wheels with enough buttons have had the horn added to their default mappings on Windows 10
- Fix to dead zones for acceleration and braking axes on wheels
- Default mappings for all TX Racing Wheel variants
- Fixed a bug where custom input mappings would not save successfully
General Improvements
- The Social and Rivals tabs will now unlock for players with Xbox Live Silver accounts
- Fixed a bug where the racing line would sometimes disappear
- Controller hot swapping is now available. Players can switch between controllers/their keyboard whenever they choose (including the wheel)
- Various content fixes for cars
In addition to the fixes above arriving with today’s update, the teams at Playground and Turn 10 are working on addressing further known issues in Forza Horizon 3 including force feedback and wheel support, general stability and performance, and more. Look for more details on these improvements in the future.
Posts
FYI, make sure you don't share that paintjob. Many people have gotten banned for "Free Candy" vans.
I do drive 100% AWD cars in horizon so that could help.
Good. I really don't think a """"hilarious"""" edgy kid rape joke is appropriate for a fun racing game.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Mixer: Kestrel1 | Twitch: KestrelTV
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
to be so loved.
I bought the game literally because the bins are our bins. I'm like, Aussie bins! I love getting the trashman skill.
It's the only driving game I've ever bought too, good fun
The turbo buttons have really improved on 486/33 computers!
- Gearing (requires Race transmission)
- Anti-Roll Bars (requires race anti-roll bars)
- Rebound & Bump damping
Let's explore the extremes of gearing first. Go out on the highway and then try setting the final gearing to its maximum and running through the gears a couple times. Then repeat with final gearing at the minimum. There will be a very big difference! Now for a good baseline adjust the final drive until all the little white lines for the gears are visible in the box in bottom right. Then run up through the gears a couple times again. Unless you're in a super high power car it's always going to be a compromise between acceleration and top speed. My B-class BRZ can have a theoretical top speed of 165, but it will take it miles and miles to get there. Better to gear it more for acceleration where it's top speed may be "limited" to 150 or so, but it can get there a lot quicker.For fine tuning, are there gears where the car either (a) blasts through so fast you barely have time to shift or (b) drags and takes forever, barely accelerating? In the case of (a) you might want to make the gear longer (less steep on the chart, smaller number). For (b) you want to do the opposite, make the offending gear shorter (more steep on the chart, higher number). Remember to adjust the gears adjacent to it as necessary. For off-road you might need to adjust the gearing steeper to deal with steep hills, getting in water, etc.
An aside on springs: You can start with setting your spring strength based on the car's neutral weight distribution. Go to the garage and write down the car's weight and weight balance percentage, e.g. 2733 lbs and 55%. If i multiply 2733 by 0.55 I get 1503 lbs on the front wheels, divided by 2 (two wheels) is 752 lbs. To get the rear I subtract, (2733-1503=1230) and again divide by 2 for 615 lbs on the rear wheels. So I'll set my springs to 752 front and 615 rear.
The anti-roll bars control how much the car can twist, and the transfer of weight to the outside wheels in cornering. The tricky part is that the rear bar affects the front end of the car and vice versa. A town, city or playground would be a good place to test this, as you want to repeat corners. Again explore the extremes - try front full stiff with rear soft before trying front soft and rear stiff. With a soft front bar and fully stiff rear bar it will really want to oversteer. Pay attention to both throttle shut and accelerating behavior, as the differential will affect how it turns (and how it turns neutral may be different than what it does when you accelerate).
Rebound & Bump Damping does affect cornering but in Horizon I'm mainly focused on how it affects taking bumps and jumps. Almost every car I've gotten into has had way too little rebound damping, which is how much resistance the car has to bouncing back off the shocks after they compress. I'd hit the off-road areas in the outback in a rally or off-road car to play with this. Experiment again, with minimum rebound and bump, maximum both, and max'ing one with the other minimized. Once you've gotten a feel for what they do, a good starting point for off-road is fairly soft bump damping with enough rebound to keep the car from pogo'ing off again when you land. Playing with the damping can also strongly affect how the car goes off a jump (nose high or low). Tune it right and you'll land jumps much more cleanly, with the car more settled for whatever is coming next.
Take that same attitude into every other setting and don't be afraid to play. Sometimes it'll be overwhelming or a car will just feel terrible; when you run into that I suggest googling a guide for that specific car and what you're trying to accomplish (i.e. speed, off road, or drift) to get a starting point. You'll also learn from seeing how other people tune! Ultimately it's free speed, as the suspension and diff upgrades are almost no PI and tuning the car to turn well and suit your style can give huge increases in corner speed (and many people don't bother touching it). Carving through a turn much faster than online opponents in a car you tuned feels really good.
*presses the auto upgrade button*
woo
Thanks for the explanation; the extremes approach is pretty enticing.
I understand gearing and springs, though a lot of auto tunes make first gear pretty useless.. I don't know what oversteer or understeer is or feels like, or how to gauge neutral vs throttle cornering, because I don't know how to corner. I just drift by letting go of throttle, tapping e-brake a split second after starting to turn, then after I'm into the drift proper I try to steer in the opposite direction of the turn to level off while punching on the gas once I'm sure I won't hit the wall. So if I turn right, I would let go of the gas, start to turn right, e brake, then turn left and punch the gas. I know of no other way to corner and do it for everything over like 25 degrees. What are objective measures of cornering quality?
Rebound and bump, I guess I'll have to find a convenient jump. A car that can't land a jump is useless to me.
Floor height is something I'm perpetually scared of, since a lot of my cars are useless on dirt and I don't know why. I want to be able to off road a little bit and not lose the race because my fender hit a bit of gravel, or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.
Any archetypal tracks you use to gauge level and variable asphalt?
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
what if you want to do races in C or D class?
http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/turn10_postst221_Tuning-Guide.aspx
Forza Horizon is so arcade-y that tuning doesn't make a huge difference IMO. In Motorsports I can change a sway bar setting from 14 to 15 and notice the difference. In Horizon I could change it from 14 to 22 and not really notice anything changed. So if you do mess with tuning in Horizon you really will have to try and move the sliders A LOT more than is suggested in the above guide.
The most important measurement of how well a corner was driven is how quickly you went from entrance to exit, and your exit speed. Casually, I measure it by how much speed I can carry through turns. Drifting is fun but it's almost always a very slow way to go through the turn. Any skidding or spinning of tires is wasted grip and it's keeping you from effectively braking on the way in and accelerating on the way out. You want to slow down ahead of time so that you can coast or accelerate through the turn. Here are a couple great pages that won't take too long to read on the basics of cornering:
http://www.drivingfast.net/techniques/racing-line.htm
http://www.drivingfast.net/techniques/track-corner.htm
Understeer is when the car doesn't want to turn - you try to turn but the front end pushes and the car keeps going straighter than you want it to. Any car will understeer if you're just plain going too fast when you try to turn. Oversteer is the opposite, the back end comes swinging around when you don't want it to (often when you add throttle in a RWD).
Cars being useless on dirt is probably related to tire compound; I'm not taking anything A-class or higher into off-road that isn't on rally tires. Another factor would be the auto upgrades throwing on race suspension and slamming them to minimum ride height with really stiff springs. The car's suspension can't handle the bumps/jumps/vertical loading and feels like a brick slamming off of everything with no grip.
somebody please make this happen
I have a 2005 Crown Vic (Same body style and such as the 2010). Trust me, it's still a damn boat. They're all built off the same platform.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
that's why Ford finally retired it... they ran out of granite.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
I tend to have two throttle settings: floor it and foot off the gas. However, I've noticed that for several cars, like the Dodge Challenger Hellcat and the Koenigsegg Regera and my Horizon Edition Jaguar Type 7, First gear shoots up to redline in like .01 milliseconds no matter how long I set it, and the transmission doesn't shift until the car goes over 45mph, which it can't really do well when the wheels are spinning uselessly against the road. Plus, it makes the tire temperature shoot up to 300 degrees, making the rear tires double the temp of the front tires, at which point I lose all control over the car unless I stop completely.
The only solution I've found is to really, really carefully press the throttle so it doesn't redline and stall out through the first like 5 gears (I have like 2 degrees of trigger rotation freedom), but that's really difficult to do when I'm doing anything else. What's wrong with my car?
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Try using a race differential and set the acceleration setting to something like 5-10% for super high powered cars. That usually works in Motorsports but I haven't really tried it in Horizon.
I've been waiting for you to show up in my game, you finally show up as like my 8th or 9th driver, and you take me three tries to recruit you. I got my revenge in the end, though.
http://xboxdvr.com/gamer/Cooldrew100/video/22082408
Steering? Proper driving? Realism? What are those ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Mixer: Kestrel1 | Twitch: KestrelTV
Bear is Driving, you show up in my game a lot and now that I've seen your icon I picture it inside the car every time your drivatar goes by. It cracks me up.
Police Interceptor is going to make online free roam super fun.
Mixer: Kestrel1 | Twitch: KestrelTV
BAHAHAHHAHAHA that's fantastic
I have heard.... rumours... and reports that my drivatar is a huge asshole. Glad to see that there's only one way to beat me.
holy lol
oommmgggg that is the crown vic i wanted! I was confused with the newer police interceptors based off the new huge ass taurus
i'm so excited you guys
Oh god it even has lights for a bodykit.
Link to the Forza news on the pack and list, for those who can't watch the video/go to the link:
2016 Aston Martin Vulcan
2000 Lotus 340R
2016 Pagani Huayra BC
2010 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
2016 GTA Spano
2016 BMW M2 Coupé
1976 Jeep CJ5 Renegade
Nice mix of POWER to SILLY.
With the pack also comes the first update: