Run down the easy checklist first to check that everything is plugged in.
1. main ATX 24pin plugged into motherboard
2. aux cpu 8-pin connected near cpu
3. ram seated fully
4. gpu seated fully
5. aux power to gpu plugged in
6. Monitor cable plugged into gpu and not the motherboard
7. Monitor is on the right input
8. Video cable is good, swap a different one or check it with another device
if all that checks out then the next step is to take the motherboard out of the case and sit it on a peice of cardboard on your desk then see if you can get it running with just 1 stick of ram, no gpu. Using onboard video if you have it, or just motherboard beeps to check for errors if not.
If it doesn't run swap for your other stick of ram, if still not then try different ram slots one by one.
If your still getting errors then you have either bad ram or a bad motherboard.
If it does boot, then add back in your ram.
If it boots after that then add the gpu back in.
If your good after that then you know that your hardware is ok and you had either short between the motherboard and case, or your stuff just wasn't seated correctly. But just to be sure check your standoffs are all in place and that nothing could of been between your motherboard and the backplate. Also check where your standoffs screw into the motherboard for any defects with the traces around the screw points that might of shorted the board.
Run down the easy checklist first to check that everything is plugged in.
1. main ATX 24pin plugged into motherboard
2. aux cpu 8-pin connected near cpu
3. ram seated fully
4. gpu seated fully
5. aux power to gpu plugged in
6. Monitor cable plugged into gpu and not the motherboard
7. Monitor is on the right input
8. Video cable is good, swap a different one or check it with another device
if all that checks out then the next step is to take the motherboard out of the case and sit it on a peice of cardboard on your desk then see if you can get it running with just 1 stick of ram, no gpu. Using onboard video if you have it, or just motherboard beeps to check for errors if not.
If it doesn't run swap for your other stick of ram, if still not then try different ram slots one by one.
If your still getting errors then you have either bad ram or a bad motherboard.
If it does boot, then add back in your ram.
If it boots after that then add the gpu back in.
If your good after that then you know that your hardware is ok and you had either short between the motherboard and case, or your stuff just wasn't seated correctly. But just to be sure check your standoffs are all in place and that nothing could of been between your motherboard and the backplate. Also check where your standoffs screw into the motherboard for any defects with the traces around the screw points that might of shorted the board.
Yes, my advice would be to start over - unplug everything, and then start according to this list.
0
ObiFettUse the ForceAs You WishRegistered Userregular
These past two pages have me very nervous about putting my rig together...
These past two pages have me very nervous about putting my rig together...
80% of people put it together, plug in all the bits, boot it up and are off to the races.
10% miss one simple connection and is fixed in minutes.
it's that last 10% that can suck and usually is the fault of broken hardware.
These past two pages have me very nervous about putting my rig together...
It's not something to go into lightly.
It can be a very rewarding experience. Or it can be an exercise in frustration. Or both.
I pay $40 to have NCIX do it for me, because that's literally a pittance for doing assembly, OS Installation and testing, and I probably save more via their price matching.
On the other hand, you might find the experience extremely enjoyable. It's worth it to find out.
These past two pages have me very nervous about putting my rig together...
10% of people put it together, plug in all the bits, boot it up and are off to the races.
70% forget the switch on the back of the power supply, the power cord, or the other end of the monitor cable
10% miss one simple connection and is fixed in minutes.
it's that last 10% that can suck and usually is the fault of broken hardware.
I think that the internet has been for years on the path to creating what is essentially an electronic Necronomicon: A collection of blasphemous unrealities so perverse that to even glimpse at its contents, if but for a moment, is to irrevocably forfeit a portion of your sanity.
Xbox - PearlBlueS0ul, Steam
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
ObiFettUse the ForceAs You WishRegistered Userregular
So I think I've convinced myself to go with the Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler for my CPU. I started going down this road once I realized exactly how huge the Cryorig R1 is and I wasn't sold on it hanging off my mobo.
Can anyone with experience give me advice on starting down this liquid cooling path? I think I'd rather get an all in one liquid cooling option because that sounds easier, but I don't know about the pros and cons...
These past two pages have me very nervous about putting my rig together...
Try not to worry too much. I'm a goddamned newbie at this. It's definitely been a learning experience, though. If Instart from scratch again, I will have FAR fewer problems.
Find someone with small hands (if you're in a bind, find a Trump supporter [I couldn't resist]) and ask them to do it for you. It is really not that difficult to fix the pin.
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
This thread is triggering me so hard right now. This is why no one should build their first PC by themselves.
I like a larger case. More room for airflow, much easier to route cables, no need to measure anything (how many mm long is the GPU I want to buy... wait a minute who gives a shit I know I have plenty of headroom, etc).
My biggest wish is that case manufacturers would start giving more room behind the motherboard. I honestly don't give a shit if my case is an inch and a half wider, just give us schmucks without modular PSUs or with a shit ton of fans/lighting/etc more room to maneuver our cabling back there.
This thread is triggering me so hard right now. This is why no one should build their first PC by themselves.
No need for this. Plenty of people build their own PCs completely solo the first time and things work out just fine. Plenty of people who have been building PCs for decades still occasionally fuck up and bend a pin or forget a power cable.
Quick question: I just put a couple new RAM socks in to get up to 16GB but I just realized that one of the new ones is touching the house from my AIO water cooler. Could this be a problem? I really don't want to have to reseat the heat sink.
EDIT: for reference it's the crucial ballistix sport xt ram and a corsair h80i all in one cooler and there does not appear to be much pressure on the ram. I'm more concerned about the hoses.
Thanks. She's up and running. And I just want to say, I don't restart this computer very often, but when I do, I always get a huge smile on my face at how quickly it starts with an SSD.
I hate to admit it, but I actually like troubleshooting sometimes. It gives me a chance to know more about the hardware. It also helps that a good part of my job involves distance troubleshooting.
It's like via forums, but responses take 2-3 days through an intermediary, and you're likely to get a response similar to, "instructions unclear; dick caught in machine."
This thread is triggering me so hard right now. This is why no one should build their first PC by themselves.
No need for this. Plenty of people build their own PCs completely solo the first time and things work out just fine. Plenty of people who have been building PCs for decades still occasionally fuck up and bend a pin or forget a power cable.
agreed. We're not practising rocket science here. You take more risk driving to work every day. Never let one person having a bad experience cause a big sweeping opinion. As is always the case, you rarely hear from the 95% of the people who have no issues at all, since they're enjoying the product that works just fine. You hear from the 5% who do. The last build I did a year ago was the first one I had ever done where after I put it all together and turned it on it just worked the first time, and I've been tinkering on the insides of computers for almost 15 years.
Now, that being said, if someone truly doesn't want to do it, that's fine. There are plenty of great options for pre-built, services that do it for you, etc. But I really hope no one here looks at one person who had a bad experience and says that "no I'm never doing that because look what can happen"
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
I finally replaced my aged Antec P180 case with a Fractal R5. I'm sure this is well-known at this point, but holy crap is this a spectacularly designed case. There's a bunch of smart details in this thing, but for some reason I'm most impressed that it allows you to set the hinge of the front cover either side. That's sooper dooper smrt.
And since I also replaced the PSU with an EVGA G2, this marks the first in a long ass time that I'm not reusing a single part from a previous build. Feels weird man.
+1
IceBurnerIt's cold and there are penguins.Registered Userregular
Does anyone have monitor suggestions for the below?
- Current Build runs an i5-3570K and STRIX 970.
- Video card has dual DVI and dual HDMI, but no display port.
- I'm not looking to do 4K, just 1920×1200 (16;10 preferred, but 1920×1080 would be ok).
- Size in the 22 to 25 inch range. Dual 27's or higher would just be too big.
- Don't need any USB, sound, or any other such extras on the monitors.
- This is a heavy gaming PC. 60hz+ and minimal response time are a must.
I've had dual LG Flatron L227WTG-PF monitors for about a decade. Didn't buy 'em at the same time. The later, cheaper, one (panel not as nice) has developed a fault resulting in increasingly long power-up times. Searching online shows that's a common problem with a $12 solution -- if you can solder, which I cannot.
I could get a professional repair done, but these are sub-1080p (max 1680x1050), so I'm thinking of replacing both. I've no set budget, but more than $150-200 per monitor would need strong justification.
I finally replaced my aged Antec P180 case with a Fractal R5. I'm sure this is well-known at this point, but holy crap is this a spectacularly designed case. There's a bunch of smart details in this thing, but for some reason I'm most impressed that it allows you to set the hinge of the front cover either side. That's sooper dooper smrt.
And since I also replaced the PSU with an EVGA G2, this marks the first in a long ass time that I'm not reusing a single part from a previous build. Feels weird man.
I actually went from the P182 to the R5 and could not agree more. The R5 is easily the best case I've ever worked in. And I agree on the door hinge (though admittedly it's not the only case that does this). My tower sits to the right and on my P182 the door opened "the wrong way"
I have a budget of around $ 500-600. I was looking at cards like the GTX 960-970. Should I go for an i7 and couple it with a GTX 960? I'm not even sure which one would be compatible with my current motherboard. I do game from time to time, like not hardcore.. but I would like to play the games I do on decent quality.. (Division, Farcy etc..)
I have a budget of around $ 500-600. I was looking at cards like the GTX 960-970. Should I go for an i7 and couple it with a GTX 960? I'm not even sure which one would be compatible with my current motherboard. I do game from time to time, like not hardcore.. but I would like to play the games I do on decent quality.. (Division, Farcy etc..)
The processor you've got is pretty decent. For that budget and for the intent you're going for, I'd say just go with a GTX 970 and another 8gb of RAM and call it a day. Something like the following for the video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121899 (it's an ASUS Strix for $328 and a $20 MIR)
EDIT - Part of the problem with wanting to go with an i7 as an upgrade is that you'd be blowing over half your budget just on the processor. If you go with the unlocked Skylake i7 (6700k), you'll also need an aftermarket CPU cooler (which will add on another $20-$80), new DDR4 RAM (which'll add $70 on the low-end), and the motherboard (again, another $100). All told, here are the PC Partpicker links that I came up with for i7 upgrades:
Neither of these have much budget left over for a new video card, I'm sad to say. This is why I'm suggesting that you'd see a bigger improvement with a GTX 970 and more RAM rather than upgrade everything else other than the video card.
Erlkönig on
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
+1
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
PSA: Not sure if it was a Windows update, or some driver I installed or what...but recently Windows 10 had been showing 100% CPU usage constant in Task Manager (even though other things were saying it wasn't anywhere near that), and Windows was not letting my CPU go in to a low power state. So my temps were way way above normal idle (but still maxing at 60C under load). If you see these symptoms, go in and change your power profile (Control Panel -> Power Options), or reset your current power profile to it's default settings and then change whatever options you want. Doing this immediately caused Windows to stop reporting my CPU as under full load, and it started to be able to drop in to a low power state like normal. Idle temps dropped to sub 30C again.
I have a budget of around $ 500-600. I was looking at cards like the GTX 960-970. Should I go for an i7 and couple it with a GTX 960? I'm not even sure which one would be compatible with my current motherboard. I do game from time to time, like not hardcore.. but I would like to play the games I do on decent quality.. (Division, Farcy etc..)
Get a GTX 970 if you need to upgrade NOW.
But if you don't need to upgrade now then I would wait for information about Pascal, which should coming in a month or two. If anything, there's going to be a flood of used 900 series cards on the market relatively soon.
Posts
Steam: pazython
― John Quincy Adams
1. main ATX 24pin plugged into motherboard
2. aux cpu 8-pin connected near cpu
3. ram seated fully
4. gpu seated fully
5. aux power to gpu plugged in
6. Monitor cable plugged into gpu and not the motherboard
7. Monitor is on the right input
8. Video cable is good, swap a different one or check it with another device
if all that checks out then the next step is to take the motherboard out of the case and sit it on a peice of cardboard on your desk then see if you can get it running with just 1 stick of ram, no gpu. Using onboard video if you have it, or just motherboard beeps to check for errors if not.
If it doesn't run swap for your other stick of ram, if still not then try different ram slots one by one.
If your still getting errors then you have either bad ram or a bad motherboard.
If it does boot, then add back in your ram.
If it boots after that then add the gpu back in.
If your good after that then you know that your hardware is ok and you had either short between the motherboard and case, or your stuff just wasn't seated correctly. But just to be sure check your standoffs are all in place and that nothing could of been between your motherboard and the backplate. Also check where your standoffs screw into the motherboard for any defects with the traces around the screw points that might of shorted the board.
Edit: Oh you were trying to help someone troubleshoot. Nevermind me.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Yes, my advice would be to start over - unplug everything, and then start according to this list.
Xbox Live / Steam
80% of people put it together, plug in all the bits, boot it up and are off to the races.
10% miss one simple connection and is fixed in minutes.
it's that last 10% that can suck and usually is the fault of broken hardware.
It's not something to go into lightly.
It can be a very rewarding experience. Or it can be an exercise in frustration. Or both.
I pay $40 to have NCIX do it for me, because that's literally a pittance for doing assembly, OS Installation and testing, and I probably save more via their price matching.
On the other hand, you might find the experience extremely enjoyable. It's worth it to find out.
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
Ok, so I disconnected all my cards, drives, and all but 1 stick of RAM. Nothing. Is it the motherboard or the processor?
Edit: yup, one of the CPU pins is damaged. Fun.
Steam: pazython
Can anyone with experience give me advice on starting down this liquid cooling path? I think I'd rather get an all in one liquid cooling option because that sounds easier, but I don't know about the pros and cons...
Xbox Live / Steam
Either use some small tweezers or a mechanical pencil with it's lead removed, fit it over the pin and move the pencil to vertical.
I don't think I have the dexterity for that.
Edit: Will my other components be OK in a desk drawer? I don't have any anti-static bags and can't find any in town.
Steam: pazython
Not much to lose by trying, you have a dead motherboard. if it works you have a good board, if the pin breaks then your at the same spot as before.
Not necessarily. If they think I tampered with it, Newegg won't give me a refund.
Try not to worry too much. I'm a goddamned newbie at this. It's definitely been a learning experience, though. If Instart from scratch again, I will have FAR fewer problems.
Steam: pazython
I probably should have asked my uncle for help.
Steam: pazython
For what it's worth, I think you've done a fine job troubleshooting it.
It's....not for everyone. I personally don't miss it.
Quietly observing someone else's hundreds of dollars of dreams and hopes is less stressful.
I had fun with some DIY projects at my new apartment. I think it would be less stressful if it weren't so cramped in that case.
Steam: pazython
It's a mid tower, and it still feels cramped. I'll try to do a better job with cable management next time.
Steam: pazython
My biggest wish is that case manufacturers would start giving more room behind the motherboard. I honestly don't give a shit if my case is an inch and a half wider, just give us schmucks without modular PSUs or with a shit ton of fans/lighting/etc more room to maneuver our cabling back there.
No need for this. Plenty of people build their own PCs completely solo the first time and things work out just fine. Plenty of people who have been building PCs for decades still occasionally fuck up and bend a pin or forget a power cable.
EDIT: for reference it's the crucial ballistix sport xt ram and a corsair h80i all in one cooler and there does not appear to be much pressure on the ram. I'm more concerned about the hoses.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
Every time.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
It's like via forums, but responses take 2-3 days through an intermediary, and you're likely to get a response similar to, "instructions unclear; dick caught in machine."
agreed. We're not practising rocket science here. You take more risk driving to work every day. Never let one person having a bad experience cause a big sweeping opinion. As is always the case, you rarely hear from the 95% of the people who have no issues at all, since they're enjoying the product that works just fine. You hear from the 5% who do. The last build I did a year ago was the first one I had ever done where after I put it all together and turned it on it just worked the first time, and I've been tinkering on the insides of computers for almost 15 years.
Now, that being said, if someone truly doesn't want to do it, that's fine. There are plenty of great options for pre-built, services that do it for you, etc. But I really hope no one here looks at one person who had a bad experience and says that "no I'm never doing that because look what can happen"
And since I also replaced the PSU with an EVGA G2, this marks the first in a long ass time that I'm not reusing a single part from a previous build. Feels weird man.
- Current Build runs an i5-3570K and STRIX 970.
- Video card has dual DVI and dual HDMI, but no display port.
- I'm not looking to do 4K, just 1920×1200 (16;10 preferred, but 1920×1080 would be ok).
- Size in the 22 to 25 inch range. Dual 27's or higher would just be too big.
- Don't need any USB, sound, or any other such extras on the monitors.
- This is a heavy gaming PC. 60hz+ and minimal response time are a must.
I've had dual LG Flatron L227WTG-PF monitors for about a decade. Didn't buy 'em at the same time. The later, cheaper, one (panel not as nice) has developed a fault resulting in increasingly long power-up times. Searching online shows that's a common problem with a $12 solution -- if you can solder, which I cannot.
I could get a professional repair done, but these are sub-1080p (max 1680x1050), so I'm thinking of replacing both. I've no set budget, but more than $150-200 per monitor would need strong justification.
PSN: theIceBurner, IceBurnerEU, IceBurner-JP | X-Link Kai: TheIceBurner
Dragon's Dogma: 192 Warrior Linty | 80 Strider Alicia | 32 Mage Terra
I actually went from the P182 to the R5 and could not agree more. The R5 is easily the best case I've ever worked in. And I agree on the door hinge (though admittedly it's not the only case that does this). My tower sits to the right and on my P182 the door opened "the wrong way"
i5-3570K
8 GB Ram
Win 10
AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series 2 GB
Gigabyte z77-d3h: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4140#ov
I have a budget of around $ 500-600. I was looking at cards like the GTX 960-970. Should I go for an i7 and couple it with a GTX 960? I'm not even sure which one would be compatible with my current motherboard. I do game from time to time, like not hardcore.. but I would like to play the games I do on decent quality.. (Division, Farcy etc..)
The processor you've got is pretty decent. For that budget and for the intent you're going for, I'd say just go with a GTX 970 and another 8gb of RAM and call it a day. Something like the following for the video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121899 (it's an ASUS Strix for $328 and a $20 MIR)
EDIT - Part of the problem with wanting to go with an i7 as an upgrade is that you'd be blowing over half your budget just on the processor. If you go with the unlocked Skylake i7 (6700k), you'll also need an aftermarket CPU cooler (which will add on another $20-$80), new DDR4 RAM (which'll add $70 on the low-end), and the motherboard (again, another $100). All told, here are the PC Partpicker links that I came up with for i7 upgrades:
Non-unlocked processor: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jz64Hx
Unlocked processor: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yMpGrH
Neither of these have much budget left over for a new video card, I'm sad to say. This is why I'm suggesting that you'd see a bigger improvement with a GTX 970 and more RAM rather than upgrade everything else other than the video card.
Get a GTX 970 if you need to upgrade NOW.
But if you don't need to upgrade now then I would wait for information about Pascal, which should coming in a month or two. If anything, there's going to be a flood of used 900 series cards on the market relatively soon.