Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
I mean, that's what i thought, but that's such a small increase that I really thought something else might be going on. Did i really get that unlucky with my chip?
I mean, that's what i thought, but that's such a small increase that I really thought something else might be going on. Did i really get that unlucky with my chip?
The blue screen will be from the voltage not being high enough for that multiplier OC. Try a 40 multiplier and see if that voltage works and the temperature you hit after running at full load for a while (also if full load is stable). There might be some room to up the voltage, in which case you can then try a higher multiplier.
Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
edited October 2016
Nope, same issue with 40 multiplier, bumped voltage by +.05, still nothing.
39 is rock solid.
40 with stock voltage is BSOD.
40 with +.02 is BSOD
40 with +.05 is BSOD
My temps at stock are in the 40s, there is absolutely no way that a single multiplier increase should cause any issues at all, even with a hefty voltage bump.
like, I know OCing is all about slow and steady, but you literally can't get any slower and steadier than the above.
I was just looking at the Tom's Hardware GPU Hierarchy chart dreaming about upgrading my R9 280 and I was surprised to see that they put the 1060 and the RX 480 on different tiers. Does it really come down to drawing an arbitrary line or does the 1060 actually perform that much better?
I guess the thinking is that it is improved over the 970 so it should be up a tier?
EDIT: And while I'm at it, if I'm gaming at 1080p/60Hz for the foreseeable future, is there any point in getting the 6GB version instead of the 3GB version?
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
At 1080p I don't think the additional VRAM is going to be a huge benefit. When you're dealing with larger textures for >1440, ya the VRAM is going to be super helpful, but I think in the mean time, 3GB is good for that resolution. Refresh rate doesn't really matter as much.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Nope, same issue with 40 multiplier, bumped voltage by +.05, still nothing.
39 is rock solid.
40 with stock voltage is BSOD.
40 with +.02 is BSOD
40 with +.05 is BSOD
My temps at stock are in the 40s, there is absolutely no way that a single multiplier increase should cause any issues at all, even with a hefty voltage bump.
like, I know OCing is all about slow and steady, but you literally can't get any slower and steadier than the above.
well, you might have lost the bin lottery then. It happens :sad:
I would appreciate a sanity check on the following build. I haven't built anything in six years. Primary goal is to run Witcher 3 with ultra (or barring that high) settings on 1080p. I've looked into 1440 and 4K builds and they're a bit too expensive for me still.
Just want to make sure I haven't done anything dumb or overlooked anything basic (hmm, guessing I need to add a case fan?). Not attached to anything in the build so feel free to suggest wildly different parts or a whole different build.
0
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
I would appreciate a sanity check on the following build. I haven't built anything in six years. Primary goal is to run Witcher 3 with ultra (or barring that high) settings on 1080p. I've looked into 1440 and 4K builds and they're a bit too expensive for me still.
Just want to make sure I haven't done anything dumb or overlooked anything basic (hmm, guessing I need to add a case fan?). Not attached to anything in the build so feel free to suggest wildly different parts or a whole different build.
The GTX970 isn't as good of a value as it used to be. A 1060 would be a better choice, though with some shuffling of pricing, I could get a GTX 1070 in there with about a $20 increase to cost.
I don't know why but it bumped me off of whatever motherboard you had. I just picked an ATX 1151 MOBO, that wasn't red/black themed and went for it (you don't need a Z board since you're not overclocking, so you were spot on there).
I changed out the PC case to something I'm more familiar with, had a good price, and would fit the components. Freed up most of the budget there.
Bumped the 970 up to a 1070 for the cheapest, best reviewed card with an aftermarket cooler design (the Windforce coolers are well regarded). At this point, that sets up a black/orange theme.
Swapped out the RAM for something orange. POOF! THEMES.
Feel free to fiddle.
BouwsT on
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Nope, same issue with 40 multiplier, bumped voltage by +.05, still nothing.
39 is rock solid.
40 with stock voltage is BSOD.
40 with +.02 is BSOD
40 with +.05 is BSOD
My temps at stock are in the 40s, there is absolutely no way that a single multiplier increase should cause any issues at all, even with a hefty voltage bump.
like, I know OCing is all about slow and steady, but you literally can't get any slower and steadier than the above.
You probably just need more voltage. Try 1.20v and see if that's enough to be stable. A quick search shows the most people typically need around 1.29-1.3+v for 4.4ghz+. Unless you just lost out on the silicon lottery 1.25v and sufficient cooling should get you to the 4.2-4.4ghz range.
I was just looking at the Tom's Hardware GPU Hierarchy chart dreaming about upgrading my R9 280 and I was surprised to see that they put the 1060 and the RX 480 on different tiers. Does it really come down to drawing an arbitrary line or does the 1060 actually perform that much better?
I guess the thinking is that it is improved over the 970 so it should be up a tier?
EDIT: And while I'm at it, if I'm gaming at 1080p/60Hz for the foreseeable future, is there any point in getting the 6GB version instead of the 3GB version?
It doesn't perform "That much better" unless you mean "a little better" (and in this specific case it can be game dependent). If you read the article you'll note they say don't bother unless your new card is 3 above your old card. So the 1060 may generally have the edge, but you won't notice it unless you run benchmarks generally speaking.
"For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
I was just looking at the Tom's Hardware GPU Hierarchy chart dreaming about upgrading my R9 280 and I was surprised to see that they put the 1060 and the RX 480 on different tiers. Does it really come down to drawing an arbitrary line or does the 1060 actually perform that much better?
I guess the thinking is that it is improved over the 970 so it should be up a tier?
EDIT: And while I'm at it, if I'm gaming at 1080p/60Hz for the foreseeable future, is there any point in getting the 6GB version instead of the 3GB version?
Hey Ed, I would personally advise getting a 6GB card for future proofing. Some games are already pushing the limits of 3GB and even 4GB cards with everything cranked to max on 1080p.
I hate to admit this in this thread, but I've got a 2470 non-k and a GTX780 with annoying coil whine and I still don't have a compelling reason, yet, to upgrade. I'll probably buy a new monitor before I look into my next build; and even then, there's a good chance I'll just increment in video card.
Just got around to testing my two Pascal Titan Xs. Holy smokes. These things are an absolute game-changer. I put together a new test-bench setup just for them:
Build Retrospective: Intel i7 6700 - I decided I didn't want to muck with overclocking and downgraded from the 6700k at the last minute. Got the i7 because I use the machine for development and think hyperthreading will improve performance on a few apps I use. Wouldn't get one for a pure gaming machine. ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero - The theme of this build is overkill. I had this picked out while I was still going with a 6700k, and liked it enough to keep it despite not really needing all the bells and whistles. The green glow of my CPU is comforting, after having had another machine with severe cooling problems, so worth it to me. G.SKILL 32GB (2 x 16GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 - I have had zero problems with this memory, which is as good of an endorsement I can give. ROG Strix Geforce 1080 - I am upgrading from a 560M, so this is a huge jump. I still don't feel like I've run anything that's really showing it off. The 560M could run Overwatch, and I wasn't unhappy with it - this is far smoother and detailed, but in the midst of play I don't notice as much. I need a killer app for it. ROG SWIFT PG278Q - I shouldn't have got this, but the thread was so in love with it and there was 0% financing involved... It's hands down the best monitor I've ever touched. The picture is perfect, and all the rotating bits are super smooth. Like the 1080, I don't feel I've really run anything that reaches its potential. Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Chassis - This case was a luxury. The monitor just kind of clicked into it spot without any spacers, and there is a ton of room to work in. My build did not need this room, but I plan on adding a second 1080 for SLI next year and I know it will fit fine. Corsair RM750x Modular Power Supply - I used one on a prior build and it was easy to work with, so I went with another. Solid again, would get a third. Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD - This is the star of the build. My laptop has a 840 EVO, and I was pretty happy with the speed it gave me over the standard hdd. This is another level of performance above that. The machine was built to run VR, and the load times between scenes is almost nothing with this thing. Completely sold, just wish that 1TB version had been out (and reasonable). HTC Vive - The whole reason I built this thing, which makes the monitor splurge even sillier. After trying one at PAX, I had to pick it up - they are a complete game changer. Even the short little experiences people have released so far are far more engrossing than the AAA titles I had been playing. The varied archery simulators are the clear winners for me, though swordfighting and exploration are fun too. Keep Talking And Nobody Explodes has been the hit of every gathering I've held since we got the thing, and with Fallout VR on the horizon, I'm not giving this up for anything.
I hate to admit this in this thread, but I've got a 2470 non-k and a GTX780 with annoying coil whine and I still don't have a compelling reason, yet, to upgrade. I'll probably buy a new monitor before I look into my next build; and even then, there's a good chance I'll just increment in video card.
the 780 was and still is a pretty solid card. for the CPU I would say that the 2xxx series line is pretty long in the tooth. it is still serviceable but definitely nearing end of life.
Yeah, at the end of the day it's a high resolution high, high dpi, high refresh rate monitor packed onto a small package with good quality hardware controllers and a whole bunch of both software and hardware development costs tacked on to the end.
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Yeah, at the end of the day it's a high resolution high, high dpi, high refresh rate monitor packed onto a small package with good quality hardware controllers and a whole bunch of both software and hardware development costs tacked on to the end.
Well in it's current form it's a middling smartphone display with years worth of PR hype that's impractical/uncomfortable to wear and play games with. I think what you're describing is the 2nd gen.
0
Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Yeah, at the end of the day it's a high resolution high, high dpi, high refresh rate monitor packed onto a small package with good quality hardware controllers and a whole bunch of both software and hardware development costs tacked on to the end.
Well in it's current form it's a middling smartphone display with years worth of PR hype that's impractical/uncomfortable to wear and play games with. I think what you're describing is the 2nd gen.
He's explaining the cost, not doing a sales pitch. Pretty much every part of the headsets are either top quality parts, custom designed parts, or both. It's hardly like we're being ripped off.
Just got around to testing my two Pascal Titan Xs. Holy smokes. These things are an absolute game-changer. I put together a new test-bench setup just for them:
Huuuge computer upgrade! First one since 2011 I think! I knew I had to upgrade when I tried to play that time-limited DooM demo and it just wouldn't even fucking run but I wanted to wait until 1060s were a more normal price.
As you can see, the processor, mobo, RAM, GPU, and case are new, along with a couple new hard drives (I've kept the old ones as backup drives). The new stuff:
ASUS Z170-P
i5-6600
8 GB DDR4 RAM
EVGA 1060 GTX 6GB
256 GB SSD
2 TB HD
Corsair Carbide 200R
This is upgrading from an ASUS P5-B Deluxe, an i3-2120, 8 GB DDR3 RAM, EVGA 560ti, and an Antec Sonata case which dates back to 20-fucking-07 which means that case technology advanced a bit since then - back when I bought it pretty much nobody had bottom mounted PSUs, a removable door on the right, places to route cables, toolless drive bays, etc. I kept it for a while because it was quiet and because why not, but it was really starting to show its age - it predated SSDs so I had to mount my SSD in it by jerry rigging some rubber bands and string and tape... it's a long story.
Anyways this new computer is awesome. I put everything together and it booted on the first try and all the buttons and front panel stuff works and everything, which is great. It was a pretty painless build except I put the hard drives in backwards and couldn't close the door because the SATA cables were in the way - I eventually realized that it's a fancy case that wants me to route those SATA cables through the back, so I did that. Also my new mobo only has 4 SATA hookups so I gotta buy a SATA card, and I need to buy an HDMI cable to plug in more than one monitor because before now I was using DVI for everything. For now I don't have the DVD drive in the computer anymore (I took it out once I got Windows 10 installed - this is also an upgrade from Windows 7) because it would hog a SATA place, but once I stick it back in, I think that will be the only thing remaining from the original computer that I built back in 2007 and updated in 2011.
So IPS vs. TN. Sounds like IPS gets you better colors and viewing angles generally, but TN is cheaper and has lower response times on the whole. There seems to be a lot of IPS love, but viewing angles aren't a concern for me (it's my desktop monitor. I sit in front of it.) and something like the DELL S2716DG checks all the other boxes aside from IPS - 27", 144hz and G-sync (and a nice understated design that doesn't look like a Pterodactyl. Looking at you Acer Predator!) And the Dell $200ish cheaper than something like the ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q which is all that and also IPS.
Does anyone happen to have experience with the Dell S2716DG? I thought maybe I'd go look at one at Best Buy, but they all seem to be out of stock until mid October round here.
I literally just ordered my new system yesterday and it includes this monitor. I'll let you know how it goes.
+1
kaliyamaLeft to find less-moderated foraRegistered Userregular
Just got around to testing my two Pascal Titan Xs. Holy smokes. These things are an absolute game-changer. I put together a new test-bench setup just for them:
Game-changer in what sense? I've been buying premium dual-GPUs for the last five years and generally feel like it's been overkill. What games are you running where this much power is used?
So my mouse and keyboard are connected and powered via my monitor. This means that turning off my monitor also kills the LEDs on the M&K, which allows for listening to music with the sound off.
Monitor has direct power supply and is connected via DisplayPort.
Speakers get juice through the subwoofer which is pretty normal, then obviously plug into the audio in on the tower.
The problem is:
As of last night, when I turn off the monitor, or unplug both the mouse and keyboard from the monitor, I get power crackles on my two speakers. These crackles surge in time/volume with the music. If I just unplug either the monitor OR the keyboard, this doesn't happen.
In other words, my speakers seem to be somehow surge-affected by my K&M despite:
a) my K&M being connected to my monitor,
b) my speakers having no direct connectivity with either my K&M or my monitor
Could just be there's no grounding, shitty grounding, or broken grounding in the building.
You get dirty power like that from stuff like that. I'm pretty confident it's related to the power in some capacity because what's happening is there's a slight change in the voltage to your surge protector when shit's powered off and the other devices get hit with it (speakers would give off an acoustic surge like that). The monitor might also be pulling more power than it should to power its USB hub internally, causing the crackle. But this is kind of why speakers crackle when (edit: the analog connector is) brushed up against a conductive surface.
Maybe.
Probably.
I think.
I'm sure someone will correct me.
bowen on
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+1
kaliyamaLeft to find less-moderated foraRegistered Userregular
What happens if the m&k are plugged in directly to the tower?
Could just be there's no grounding, shitty grounding, or broken grounding in the building.
You get dirty power like that from stuff like that. I'm pretty confident it's related to the power in some capacity because what's happening is there's a slight change in the voltage to your surge protector when shit's powered off and the other devices get hit with it (speakers would give off an acoustic surge like that). The monitor might also be pulling more power than it should to power its USB hub internally, causing the crackle. But this is kind of why speakers crackle when (edit: the analog connector is) brushed up against a conductive surface.
Might also be some interference inside the case/motherboard. Integrated audio in particular is commonly not well isolated from the rest of the board. You might want to try changing what usb ports the monitor is using are (I mean where the montior's usb ports are plugged into the back of the case).
Just got around to testing my two Pascal Titan Xs. Holy smokes. These things are an absolute game-changer. I put together a new test-bench setup just for them:
Game-changer in what sense? I've been buying premium dual-GPUs for the last five years and generally feel like it's been overkill. What games are you running where this much power is used?
Game-changer in the sense of a solid 60+ FPS on every title in 4K, Ultra settings. That was not really possible before.
Posts
The blue screen will be from the voltage not being high enough for that multiplier OC. Try a 40 multiplier and see if that voltage works and the temperature you hit after running at full load for a while (also if full load is stable). There might be some room to up the voltage, in which case you can then try a higher multiplier.
Slow and steady wins the race with overclocking.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
What are the http://www.ocforums.com reports saying about the 4770k?
39 is rock solid.
40 with stock voltage is BSOD.
40 with +.02 is BSOD
40 with +.05 is BSOD
My temps at stock are in the 40s, there is absolutely no way that a single multiplier increase should cause any issues at all, even with a hefty voltage bump.
like, I know OCing is all about slow and steady, but you literally can't get any slower and steadier than the above.
I guess the thinking is that it is improved over the 970 so it should be up a tier?
EDIT: And while I'm at it, if I'm gaming at 1080p/60Hz for the foreseeable future, is there any point in getting the 6GB version instead of the 3GB version?
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
well, you might have lost the bin lottery then. It happens :sad:
I would appreciate a sanity check on the following build. I haven't built anything in six years. Primary goal is to run Witcher 3 with ultra (or barring that high) settings on 1080p. I've looked into 1440 and 4K builds and they're a bit too expensive for me still.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($65.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($293.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($117.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 144Hz Monitor ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1349.85
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-03 11:29 EDT-0400
Just want to make sure I haven't done anything dumb or overlooked anything basic (hmm, guessing I need to add a case fan?). Not attached to anything in the build so feel free to suggest wildly different parts or a whole different build.
The GTX970 isn't as good of a value as it used to be. A 1060 would be a better choice, though with some shuffling of pricing, I could get a GTX 1070 in there with about a $20 increase to cost.
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/LxG9Cy
Edit for rationale on changes:
I don't know why but it bumped me off of whatever motherboard you had. I just picked an ATX 1151 MOBO, that wasn't red/black themed and went for it (you don't need a Z board since you're not overclocking, so you were spot on there).
I changed out the PC case to something I'm more familiar with, had a good price, and would fit the components. Freed up most of the budget there.
Bumped the 970 up to a 1070 for the cheapest, best reviewed card with an aftermarket cooler design (the Windforce coolers are well regarded). At this point, that sets up a black/orange theme.
Swapped out the RAM for something orange. POOF! THEMES.
Feel free to fiddle.
You probably just need more voltage. Try 1.20v and see if that's enough to be stable. A quick search shows the most people typically need around 1.29-1.3+v for 4.4ghz+. Unless you just lost out on the silicon lottery 1.25v and sufficient cooling should get you to the 4.2-4.4ghz range.
I did a quick search on 4770k overclocking to see what voltages most overclocks use. Tech Report has a good guide with bios screenshots http://techreport.com/review/24889/haswell-overclocked-the-core-i7-4770k-at-4-7ghz as does Tech Power Up https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Haswell_OC_Guide/
It doesn't perform "That much better" unless you mean "a little better" (and in this specific case it can be game dependent). If you read the article you'll note they say don't bother unless your new card is 3 above your old card. So the 1060 may generally have the edge, but you won't notice it unless you run benchmarks generally speaking.
Hey Ed, I would personally advise getting a 6GB card for future proofing. Some games are already pushing the limits of 3GB and even 4GB cards with everything cranked to max on 1080p.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
[video]
Intel i7 6700 - I decided I didn't want to muck with overclocking and downgraded from the 6700k at the last minute. Got the i7 because I use the machine for development and think hyperthreading will improve performance on a few apps I use. Wouldn't get one for a pure gaming machine.
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero - The theme of this build is overkill. I had this picked out while I was still going with a 6700k, and liked it enough to keep it despite not really needing all the bells and whistles. The green glow of my CPU is comforting, after having had another machine with severe cooling problems, so worth it to me.
G.SKILL 32GB (2 x 16GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 - I have had zero problems with this memory, which is as good of an endorsement I can give.
ROG Strix Geforce 1080 - I am upgrading from a 560M, so this is a huge jump. I still don't feel like I've run anything that's really showing it off. The 560M could run Overwatch, and I wasn't unhappy with it - this is far smoother and detailed, but in the midst of play I don't notice as much. I need a killer app for it.
ROG SWIFT PG278Q - I shouldn't have got this, but the thread was so in love with it and there was 0% financing involved... It's hands down the best monitor I've ever touched. The picture is perfect, and all the rotating bits are super smooth. Like the 1080, I don't feel I've really run anything that reaches its potential.
Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Chassis - This case was a luxury. The monitor just kind of clicked into it spot without any spacers, and there is a ton of room to work in. My build did not need this room, but I plan on adding a second 1080 for SLI next year and I know it will fit fine.
Corsair RM750x Modular Power Supply - I used one on a prior build and it was easy to work with, so I went with another. Solid again, would get a third.
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD - This is the star of the build. My laptop has a 840 EVO, and I was pretty happy with the speed it gave me over the standard hdd. This is another level of performance above that. The machine was built to run VR, and the load times between scenes is almost nothing with this thing. Completely sold, just wish that 1TB version had been out (and reasonable).
HTC Vive - The whole reason I built this thing, which makes the monitor splurge even sillier. After trying one at PAX, I had to pick it up - they are a complete game changer. Even the short little experiences people have released so far are far more engrossing than the AAA titles I had been playing. The varied archery simulators are the clear winners for me, though swordfighting and exploration are fun too. Keep Talking And Nobody Explodes has been the hit of every gathering I've held since we got the thing, and with Fallout VR on the horizon, I'm not giving this up for anything.
the 780 was and still is a pretty solid card. for the CPU I would say that the 2xxx series line is pretty long in the tooth. it is still serviceable but definitely nearing end of life.
Were we expecting a price drop for the holidays?
...
I'm asking for a friend.
Well in it's current form it's a middling smartphone display with years worth of PR hype that's impractical/uncomfortable to wear and play games with. I think what you're describing is the 2nd gen.
He's explaining the cost, not doing a sales pitch. Pretty much every part of the headsets are either top quality parts, custom designed parts, or both. It's hardly like we're being ripped off.
Jesus. That's over $5k in parts.
Part of me is in awe, but an even bigger part of me hates you immensely. :P
@Xeddicus Would $259.99 pre-MIR be good enough? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125901
As you can see, the processor, mobo, RAM, GPU, and case are new, along with a couple new hard drives (I've kept the old ones as backup drives). The new stuff:
ASUS Z170-P
i5-6600
8 GB DDR4 RAM
EVGA 1060 GTX 6GB
256 GB SSD
2 TB HD
Corsair Carbide 200R
This is upgrading from an ASUS P5-B Deluxe, an i3-2120, 8 GB DDR3 RAM, EVGA 560ti, and an Antec Sonata case which dates back to 20-fucking-07 which means that case technology advanced a bit since then - back when I bought it pretty much nobody had bottom mounted PSUs, a removable door on the right, places to route cables, toolless drive bays, etc. I kept it for a while because it was quiet and because why not, but it was really starting to show its age - it predated SSDs so I had to mount my SSD in it by jerry rigging some rubber bands and string and tape... it's a long story.
Anyways this new computer is awesome. I put everything together and it booted on the first try and all the buttons and front panel stuff works and everything, which is great. It was a pretty painless build except I put the hard drives in backwards and couldn't close the door because the SATA cables were in the way - I eventually realized that it's a fancy case that wants me to route those SATA cables through the back, so I did that. Also my new mobo only has 4 SATA hookups so I gotta buy a SATA card, and I need to buy an HDMI cable to plug in more than one monitor because before now I was using DVI for everything. For now I don't have the DVD drive in the computer anymore (I took it out once I got Windows 10 installed - this is also an upgrade from Windows 7) because it would hog a SATA place, but once I stick it back in, I think that will be the only thing remaining from the original computer that I built back in 2007 and updated in 2011.
Can't wait to try out BF4 on this thing!
I literally just ordered my new system yesterday and it includes this monitor. I'll let you know how it goes.
Game-changer in what sense? I've been buying premium dual-GPUs for the last five years and generally feel like it's been overkill. What games are you running where this much power is used?
Here's my connectivity setup:
So my mouse and keyboard are connected and powered via my monitor. This means that turning off my monitor also kills the LEDs on the M&K, which allows for listening to music with the sound off.
Monitor has direct power supply and is connected via DisplayPort.
Speakers get juice through the subwoofer which is pretty normal, then obviously plug into the audio in on the tower.
The problem is:
As of last night, when I turn off the monitor, or unplug both the mouse and keyboard from the monitor, I get power crackles on my two speakers. These crackles surge in time/volume with the music. If I just unplug either the monitor OR the keyboard, this doesn't happen.
In other words, my speakers seem to be somehow surge-affected by my K&M despite:
a) my K&M being connected to my monitor,
b) my speakers having no direct connectivity with either my K&M or my monitor
Riddle me that.
You get dirty power like that from stuff like that. I'm pretty confident it's related to the power in some capacity because what's happening is there's a slight change in the voltage to your surge protector when shit's powered off and the other devices get hit with it (speakers would give off an acoustic surge like that). The monitor might also be pulling more power than it should to power its USB hub internally, causing the crackle. But this is kind of why speakers crackle when (edit: the analog connector is) brushed up against a conductive surface.
Maybe.
Probably.
I think.
I'm sure someone will correct me.
I was going to say grounding as well.
Game-changer in the sense of a solid 60+ FPS on every title in 4K, Ultra settings. That was not really possible before.