so Deus Ex has told me I need to upgrade my video card. getting ~20 fps on low settings.
It's a gtx 460 1gb so you know, it's probably about time anyway. It's been holding up admirably up until now though so I can't be mad at it.
I have an i5 2500k on a 2nd gen sandy bridge board (i think. that code name sounds right in my head). I haven't had any cpu issues really so I think I'm fine to just get a new card, assuming they don't require some new tech my current board wouldn't have.
I think I'd ideally like to be in the $150 range, though I'd feel ok going up to $250 with some wiggle room if i can get it from best buy and use the card i have with them.
But I also have no idea what's going with graphics cards these days. Last I looked was at least 4 years ago maybe longer. any tips would be great
so Deus Ex has told me I need to upgrade my video card. getting ~20 fps on low settings.
It's a gtx 460 1gb so you know, it's probably about time anyway. It's been holding up admirably up until now though so I can't be mad at it.
I have an i5 2500k on a 2nd gen sandy bridge board (i think. that code name sounds right in my head). I haven't had any cpu issues really so I think I'm fine to just get a new card, assuming they don't require some new tech my current board wouldn't have.
I think I'd ideally like to be in the $150 range, though I'd feel ok going up to $250 with some wiggle room if i can get it from best buy and use the card i have with them.
But I also have no idea what's going with graphics cards these days. Last I looked was at least 4 years ago maybe longer. any tips would be great
Look for the AMD RX 480. It's $200, and by far the best value in the $150-$200 price range. the trick is actually finding it in stock at $200 right now. that's the only card in the price range I would recommend.
the nVidia GTX 1060 is a $250 card, and slightly better than the 480. But if you want to stick to closer to $150 than $250 the 480 is the card I would recommend. the difference between it and the 1060 isn't super significant.
And just as a sidenote, I'd recommend start saving your pennies for a new CPU/motherboard. the 2500k was a solid part, but it is really old at this point. Some games are starting to be CPU limited by those generation parts, so an upgrade will be in your future there as well.
Haha yeah I built it while in school off of a tuition reimbursement... This time I'll have to actually budget what I want to do.
I haven't had any issues with my design software on it so "time to upgrade" will be mostly game based. I'll start looking around after getting the card maybe.
Are there any issues going from nvidia to and drivers?
Haha yeah I built it while in school off of a tuition reimbursement... This time I'll have to actually budget what I want to do.
I haven't had any issues with my design software on it so "time to upgrade" will be mostly game based. I'll start looking around after getting the card maybe.
Are there any issues going from nvidia to and drivers?
Not usually. Just uninstall the nVidia drivers, shut down, then take the card out.
I've been having problems with my computer bluescreening, and now it doesn't want to install the anniversary update, plus the Oculus Rift started not detecting its HDMI connection and I think I'm just going to wipe Windows and start over.
The one thing I really don't like is installing the motherboard drivers. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A, and I'm not convinced the AI Suite or whichever component is doing its job of keeping everything up to date. I go to the driver download page and there are several random updates which I'm pretty sure I was never asked to install. Should I just go to that page and manually sift out the newest of each driver and install them all? It feels like there should be a better way to do this, or the page should be better organized, or something. Like, an up-to-date ZIP file of "install everything in here after you reinstall Windows" would be nice.
HDMI issues with the Rift usually are USB issues in disguise.
Could well be the case. At some point during my fruitless attempts to get Win10 Anniversary on the machine last night, all the USB ports refused to power up the Xbox controller, although at least I still had the KBAM. I installed ASUS's USB drivers, whose description specifically mentions "Improve USB device compatibility, eg. Oculus VR" and the controller came back to life after one restart or another. But I never tried plugging the Rift back in before I ended up leaving the computer at the pre-boot working-on-update-don't-turn-off-your-computer screen. It was still on that screen when I woke up this morning, still at 93% like when I went to sleep, so I turned it off. When I get home I think I'm going to download the ISO from Microsoft and just install the updated OS clean.
So I got a GTX 1070 today, however I don't have a DVI-D cable.
I used a spare HDMI cable just to check everything works but the picture is slightly blurred and everything is a bit fuzzy.
I expect that's to do with my TV/Monitor not linking it. Took quite a while to get my monitor to recognise the HDMI connection and then even longer to actually get it to sort out a proper resolution.
I've ordered a proper DVI-D cable so hopefully everything will be sorted tomorrow.
It shouldn't be fuzzy, something is borked. Hopefully it's HDMI related.
I've had similar problems with computers and HDMI on my TV. Weird picture sizes, oversampling, etc.
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
The fact that in the year 2016 overscan in modern TVs is still a thing is the stupidest damn shit.
+4
dresdenphileWatch out for snakes!Registered Userregular
Has anyone else gotten an email about a class action lawsuit settlement for people who bought a new computer with an optical or a stand-alone optical drive between April 1, 2003 and December 31, 2008?
For me it was all issues with the TV monitor itself. It didn't auto detect the new resolution on the HDMI input so I assume it was thinking it was the same resolution as when I used an Xbox via HDMI.
I then had to change the input name on my TV for HDMI to PC and that cleared the image nicely.
Still getting the dvi-a cables as the HDMI is too short and is needed for the DVD player.
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Has anyone else gotten an email about a class action lawsuit settlement for people who bought a new computer with an optical or a stand-alone optical drive between April 1, 2003 and December 31, 2008?
Yeah, it has some shady looking site asking for my personal information. None of my coworkers got one so I assumed it was a scam.
It shouldn't be fuzzy, something is borked. Hopefully it's HDMI related.
I've had similar problems with computers and HDMI on my TV. Weird picture sizes, oversampling, etc.
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
Make sure ULMB or anything that tries to mess with the refresh rate (in Hz) is disabled on your TV. One of my clients had this annoying smart tv that had some sort of high refresh setting that was fucking with the HDMI input.
Also, you might see if there are any firmware updates for your TV. Most TVs made in the last 5 years have USB dataports for that.
For your next TV, make sure it has DisplayPort 1.2+ or HDMI 2.0+. Either would allow your GPU to directly control the refresh rate of your display.
So I just spent 30m trying to figure out how to download network drivers and move them to the new build so that the Internet would work.
Then I remembered that's what the included cd is for.
This is one of those reasons I always have a optical drive when I build a PC.
Pretty sure we're still a few years from manufacturers cramming super-cheap thumb drives loaded with drivers along with their actual hardware.
Then again, a USB optical drive would do the job almost as well.
I wouldn't use something like that anyway. USB has access too deep into your machine for me to be comfortable plugging one of unknown origin into my PC.
Thread, I need your help. I'm looking for a gaming laptop that could feasibly run VR content. Doesn't have to be top notch (I've got my desktops for that), but decent performance at medium settings would be great. The real kicker for me is price - I'd only use it occasionally, so can't really justify spending a small fortune on it... anyone got any recommendations for something in the 1k to 1.5k range that might satisfy these criteria?
Thread, I need your help. I'm looking for a gaming laptop that could feasibly run VR content. Doesn't have to be top notch (I've got my desktops for that), but decent performance at medium settings would be great. The real kicker for me is price - I'd only use it occasionally, so can't really justify spending a small fortune on it... anyone got any recommendations for something in the 1k to 1.5k range that might satisfy these criteria?
One of the new laptops with a 1070 should be fine, but that's going to be tight fit under $1.5k
Edit: I'm a fan of Sager / Clevo, looks like the P650RS-G might meet your requirements if you paid cash for it.
so Deus Ex has told me I need to upgrade my video card. getting ~20 fps on low settings.
It's a gtx 460 1gb so you know, it's probably about time anyway. It's been holding up admirably up until now though so I can't be mad at it.
I have an i5 2500k on a 2nd gen sandy bridge board (i think. that code name sounds right in my head). I haven't had any cpu issues really so I think I'm fine to just get a new card, assuming they don't require some new tech my current board wouldn't have.
I think I'd ideally like to be in the $150 range, though I'd feel ok going up to $250 with some wiggle room if i can get it from best buy and use the card i have with them.
But I also have no idea what's going with graphics cards these days. Last I looked was at least 4 years ago maybe longer. any tips would be great
Look for the AMD RX 480. It's $200, and by far the best value in the $150-$200 price range. the trick is actually finding it in stock at $200 right now. that's the only card in the price range I would recommend.
the nVidia GTX 1060 is a $250 card, and slightly better than the 480. But if you want to stick to closer to $150 than $250 the 480 is the card I would recommend. the difference between it and the 1060 isn't super significant.
And just as a sidenote, I'd recommend start saving your pennies for a new CPU/motherboard. the 2500k was a solid part, but it is really old at this point. Some games are starting to be CPU limited by those generation parts, so an upgrade will be in your future there as well.
Well this part turned out to be more real than I thought it would be.
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Over 5 years on and my 2600k is still going strong. I've got it paired with a 980 and get frame rates in the 40s-60s in Mankind Divided with everything set to high at 1440p. I think I can wait for Cannonlake and Volta.
Thread, I need your help. I'm looking for a gaming laptop that could feasibly run VR content. Doesn't have to be top notch (I've got my desktops for that), but decent performance at medium settings would be great. The real kicker for me is price - I'd only use it occasionally, so can't really justify spending a small fortune on it... anyone got any recommendations for something in the 1k to 1.5k range that might satisfy these criteria?
One of the new laptops with a 1070 should be fine, but that's going to be tight fit under $1.5k
Edit: I'm a fan of Sager / Clevo, looks like the P650RS-G might meet your requirements if you paid cash for it.
Thanks, that looks pretty good. Now to find out if I can but it over here in Germany
Almost got all the parts in for my new PC. Any tips for someone who's never built a desktop before?
First, watch a couple youtube videos on putting one together first. The basics are the same across cases, MBs, etc. - though there will be a couple wrinkles that are different for each case.
Second, take your time.
Third, make sure you keep track of all of the screws.
Fourth, many parts will have different screws / spacers / etc. for AMD processors or Intel processors; make sure you pick the right one, and then put the others far away so you don't accidentally use them.
Last, don't put the side back on the case until after you've got everything up and working.
It shouldn't be fuzzy, something is borked. Hopefully it's HDMI related.
I've had similar problems with computers and HDMI on my TV. Weird picture sizes, oversampling, etc.
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
Make sure ULMB or anything that tries to mess with the refresh rate (in Hz) is disabled on your TV. One of my clients had this annoying smart tv that had some sort of high refresh setting that was fucking with the HDMI input.
Also, you might see if there are any firmware updates for your TV. Most TVs made in the last 5 years have USB dataports for that.
For your next TV, make sure it has DisplayPort 1.2+ or HDMI 2.0+. Either would allow your GPU to directly control the refresh rate of your display.
Cool. Thanks for the information. I'll give that a go through the manual and see if I can find anything. The TV is kind of old at this point and is a pretty "dumb" TV but the picture still looks amazing and it still works so I can't think of a reason to get a new one until either of those things is no longer true. I'll keep in mind the DisplayPort and HDMI versions when I eventually have to look again though.
So I just spent 30m trying to figure out how to download network drivers and move them to the new build so that the Internet would work.
Then I remembered that's what the included cd is for.
This is one of those reasons I always have a optical drive when I build a PC.
Pretty sure we're still a few years from manufacturers cramming super-cheap thumb drives loaded with drivers along with their actual hardware.
Then again, a USB optical drive would do the job almost as well.
I wouldn't use something like that anyway. USB has access too deep into your machine for me to be comfortable plugging one of unknown origin into my PC.
That's actually a pretty excellent point. I'm OK plugging them in from Blizzard (because how could you NOT trust a USB drive shaped like the Soulstone from Diablo?), but I don't think I'd feel the same for other companies.
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
It shouldn't be fuzzy, something is borked. Hopefully it's HDMI related.
I've had similar problems with computers and HDMI on my TV. Weird picture sizes, oversampling, etc.
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
Make sure ULMB or anything that tries to mess with the refresh rate (in Hz) is disabled on your TV. One of my clients had this annoying smart tv that had some sort of high refresh setting that was fucking with the HDMI input.
Also, you might see if there are any firmware updates for your TV. Most TVs made in the last 5 years have USB dataports for that.
For your next TV, make sure it has DisplayPort 1.2+ or HDMI 2.0+. Either would allow your GPU to directly control the refresh rate of your display.
Cool. Thanks for the information. I'll give that a go through the manual and see if I can find anything. The TV is kind of old at this point and is a pretty "dumb" TV but the picture still looks amazing and it still works so I can't think of a reason to get a new one until either of those things is no longer true. I'll keep in mind the DisplayPort and HDMI versions when I eventually have to look again though.
I'm in the same boat. I bought my 42in 1080p LCD TV back in 2008 when the format was really taking off. Managed to score a sweet deal on it for just 700 bucks. It also had those super annoying overscan features. What ended up fixing it for me was changing the display type to 1:1. I may buy a new TV one of these days but I'm in no hurry. I might wait to get one of those flexible magnetically mounted wall displays when they're not $12,000.
It shouldn't be fuzzy, something is borked. Hopefully it's HDMI related.
I've had similar problems with computers and HDMI on my TV. Weird picture sizes, oversampling, etc.
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
I had that problem last night. I was having to drop display resolution to something by 968 to fit on my nominally 1080p TV. Turns out the problem was a TV setting, not a GPU setting, so check that as well. Set the computer to 1080 and fool around in the TV menus to see if you can't fix it.
ugh I hate that about TVs, they all hide the setting under different areas with different names for what you want or need you to do weird things like rename the input to a specific word.
Almost got all the parts in for my new PC. Any tips for someone who's never built a desktop before?
First, watch a couple youtube videos on putting one together first. The basics are the same across cases, MBs, etc. - though there will be a couple wrinkles that are different for each case.
Second, take your time.
Third, make sure you keep track of all of the screws.
Fourth, many parts will have different screws / spacers / etc. for AMD processors or Intel processors; make sure you pick the right one, and then put the others far away so you don't accidentally use them.
Last, don't put the side back on the case until after you've got everything up and working.
I'm also a big fan of using small cups or possibly a tacklebox (if you have access to one) to separate the screws, so they are more easily tracked. You can even label the containers and make it super easy.
Also, give yourself a big work area so you can spread out and take your time.
Almost got all the parts in for my new PC. Any tips for someone who's never built a desktop before?
First, watch a couple youtube videos on putting one together first. The basics are the same across cases, MBs, etc. - though there will be a couple wrinkles that are different for each case.
Second, take your time.
Third, make sure you keep track of all of the screws.
Fourth, many parts will have different screws / spacers / etc. for AMD processors or Intel processors; make sure you pick the right one, and then put the others far away so you don't accidentally use them.
Last, don't put the side back on the case until after you've got everything up and working.
I'm also a big fan of using small cups or possibly a tacklebox (if you have access to one) to separate the screws, so they are more easily tracked. You can even label the containers and make it super easy.
Also, give yourself a big work area so you can spread out and take your time.
And don't get upset when it doesn't work the first time; it never does for me. Just take your time and troubleshoot slowly.
VishNub on
+2
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
All you need to keep track of screws is a large flat magnet. You knock a cup over, you shit's going to go everywhere. You bump into a drawer wrong and it's good bye to your organization.
Years ago at a previous computer repair job we got sent a Gravity Pad out of the blue with a nice letter saying how we could get a discount on more. Since my boss was a cheapskate and I was the only technician we wouldn't order any more. I got to use the one and loved the idea. It doesn't need to be a Gravity Pad either. Any large flat magnet will work. At my current job we have a bunch of cisco car magnets that no one ever uses. For the last 3 years I've been using one's underside to hold onto screws. My method when disassembling small electronics is to organize in layers sizes and zones. For example, if I am taking the back cover off a laptop and come up with 6 m2.5x5s and 2 m2.5x10s I will pick a corner of the magnet to start a new zone. That will be the top layer. If it's a tough one I will lay all the screws out in a shrunk down diagram of where I got them. Most of the time it's pretty obvious what screws go where so I just group them by size. I tend to work clockwise to disassemble and clockwise across the mat, making a new zone for each layer I take apart.
If you want to get fancy, take a picture of each layer as you disassemble, shrink it down to fit in a corner of your magnet and use that to lay out your screws. A sheet of taped down paper and a pen will make it easy draw a diagram if you don't.
I wouldn't use something like that anyway. USB has access too deep into your machine for me to be comfortable plugging one of unknown origin into my PC.
This was my first thought. It's an awesome idea but I'd be far too nervous putting a USB stick direct from China into my machine in a world where BadUSB exists.
So this morning I turn off and unhook my pc to bring it outside and use a can of compressed air to get rid of the dust in it. After I'm done, I bring it inside and hook everything back up, flip the pcu power switch and hit the power button. Nothing happens. I tried checking to see if f anything came loose, but don't notice anything. The fans don't try to turn, no beeps, I only see the standby light on the motherboard turn on so I'm pretty sure that is getting power.
I'm going to try and take everything apart later and put it back together and check one piece at a time. If anyone has any good troubleshooting guides for this it would be greatly appreciated.
Posts
It's a gtx 460 1gb so you know, it's probably about time anyway. It's been holding up admirably up until now though so I can't be mad at it.
I have an i5 2500k on a 2nd gen sandy bridge board (i think. that code name sounds right in my head). I haven't had any cpu issues really so I think I'm fine to just get a new card, assuming they don't require some new tech my current board wouldn't have.
I think I'd ideally like to be in the $150 range, though I'd feel ok going up to $250 with some wiggle room if i can get it from best buy and use the card i have with them.
But I also have no idea what's going with graphics cards these days. Last I looked was at least 4 years ago maybe longer. any tips would be great
Look for the AMD RX 480. It's $200, and by far the best value in the $150-$200 price range. the trick is actually finding it in stock at $200 right now. that's the only card in the price range I would recommend.
the nVidia GTX 1060 is a $250 card, and slightly better than the 480. But if you want to stick to closer to $150 than $250 the 480 is the card I would recommend. the difference between it and the 1060 isn't super significant.
And just as a sidenote, I'd recommend start saving your pennies for a new CPU/motherboard. the 2500k was a solid part, but it is really old at this point. Some games are starting to be CPU limited by those generation parts, so an upgrade will be in your future there as well.
I haven't had any issues with my design software on it so "time to upgrade" will be mostly game based. I'll start looking around after getting the card maybe.
Are there any issues going from nvidia to and drivers?
Not usually. Just uninstall the nVidia drivers, shut down, then take the card out.
Could well be the case. At some point during my fruitless attempts to get Win10 Anniversary on the machine last night, all the USB ports refused to power up the Xbox controller, although at least I still had the KBAM. I installed ASUS's USB drivers, whose description specifically mentions "Improve USB device compatibility, eg. Oculus VR" and the controller came back to life after one restart or another. But I never tried plugging the Rift back in before I ended up leaving the computer at the pre-boot working-on-update-don't-turn-off-your-computer screen. It was still on that screen when I woke up this morning, still at 93% like when I went to sleep, so I turned it off.
I used a spare HDMI cable just to check everything works but the picture is slightly blurred and everything is a bit fuzzy.
I expect that's to do with my TV/Monitor not linking it. Took quite a while to get my monitor to recognise the HDMI connection and then even longer to actually get it to sort out a proper resolution.
I've ordered a proper DVI-D cable so hopefully everything will be sorted tomorrow.
Penny Arcade Rockstar Social Club / This is why I despise cyclists
So shiny :biggrin:
Yes, this is so annoying on our HTPC. The AMD card we had in there previously worked just fine. But the NVIDIA card we replaced it with does not fit to the screen correctly. Tried so many options for oversampling but none of them actually did anything. Spent so much time trying to resolve it. Even set up a custom resolution and that made everything fit, but then when the HTPC would wake from sleep it would either revert back to the full 1080 output or down to a lower value and now the viewing area is significantly smaller than the full TV viewing area. Eventually gave up and some of the desktop is just beyond the bounds of the screen. Everytime there's a driver update I'll fool with a bit but it's never been resolved.
PSN : Bolthorn
I then had to change the input name on my TV for HDMI to PC and that cleared the image nicely.
Still getting the dvi-a cables as the HDMI is too short and is needed for the DVD player.
Yeah, it has some shady looking site asking for my personal information. None of my coworkers got one so I assumed it was a scam.
Make sure ULMB or anything that tries to mess with the refresh rate (in Hz) is disabled on your TV. One of my clients had this annoying smart tv that had some sort of high refresh setting that was fucking with the HDMI input.
Also, you might see if there are any firmware updates for your TV. Most TVs made in the last 5 years have USB dataports for that.
For your next TV, make sure it has DisplayPort 1.2+ or HDMI 2.0+. Either would allow your GPU to directly control the refresh rate of your display.
Then I remembered that's what the included cd is for.
in the past I've used my phone, then attached said phone via USB to copy the file over.
This is one of those reasons I always have a optical drive when I build a PC.
Pretty sure we're still a few years from manufacturers cramming super-cheap thumb drives loaded with drivers along with their actual hardware.
Then again, a USB optical drive would do the job almost as well.
And then you get a motherboard that doesn't have the USB drivers installed out of the box...
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
Key word, "almost".
Though you could run into some IDE/master-slave confusion back in the old days of optical drives.
I wouldn't use something like that anyway. USB has access too deep into your machine for me to be comfortable plugging one of unknown origin into my PC.
Unreal Engine 4 Developers Community.
I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
Edit: I'm a fan of Sager / Clevo, looks like the P650RS-G might meet your requirements if you paid cash for it.
Penny Arcade Rockstar Social Club / This is why I despise cyclists
Well this part turned out to be more real than I thought it would be.
Thanks, that looks pretty good. Now to find out if I can but it over here in Germany
Unreal Engine 4 Developers Community.
I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
First, watch a couple youtube videos on putting one together first. The basics are the same across cases, MBs, etc. - though there will be a couple wrinkles that are different for each case.
Second, take your time.
Third, make sure you keep track of all of the screws.
Fourth, many parts will have different screws / spacers / etc. for AMD processors or Intel processors; make sure you pick the right one, and then put the others far away so you don't accidentally use them.
Last, don't put the side back on the case until after you've got everything up and working.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Cool. Thanks for the information. I'll give that a go through the manual and see if I can find anything. The TV is kind of old at this point and is a pretty "dumb" TV but the picture still looks amazing and it still works so I can't think of a reason to get a new one until either of those things is no longer true. I'll keep in mind the DisplayPort and HDMI versions when I eventually have to look again though.
PSN : Bolthorn
That's actually a pretty excellent point. I'm OK plugging them in from Blizzard (because how could you NOT trust a USB drive shaped like the Soulstone from Diablo?), but I don't think I'd feel the same for other companies.
I'm in the same boat. I bought my 42in 1080p LCD TV back in 2008 when the format was really taking off. Managed to score a sweet deal on it for just 700 bucks. It also had those super annoying overscan features. What ended up fixing it for me was changing the display type to 1:1. I may buy a new TV one of these days but I'm in no hurry. I might wait to get one of those flexible magnetically mounted wall displays when they're not $12,000.
I had that problem last night. I was having to drop display resolution to something by 968 to fit on my nominally 1080p TV. Turns out the problem was a TV setting, not a GPU setting, so check that as well. Set the computer to 1080 and fool around in the TV menus to see if you can't fix it.
I'm also a big fan of using small cups or possibly a tacklebox (if you have access to one) to separate the screws, so they are more easily tracked. You can even label the containers and make it super easy.
Also, give yourself a big work area so you can spread out and take your time.
And don't get upset when it doesn't work the first time; it never does for me. Just take your time and troubleshoot slowly.
Years ago at a previous computer repair job we got sent a Gravity Pad out of the blue with a nice letter saying how we could get a discount on more. Since my boss was a cheapskate and I was the only technician we wouldn't order any more. I got to use the one and loved the idea. It doesn't need to be a Gravity Pad either. Any large flat magnet will work. At my current job we have a bunch of cisco car magnets that no one ever uses. For the last 3 years I've been using one's underside to hold onto screws. My method when disassembling small electronics is to organize in layers sizes and zones. For example, if I am taking the back cover off a laptop and come up with 6 m2.5x5s and 2 m2.5x10s I will pick a corner of the magnet to start a new zone. That will be the top layer. If it's a tough one I will lay all the screws out in a shrunk down diagram of where I got them. Most of the time it's pretty obvious what screws go where so I just group them by size. I tend to work clockwise to disassemble and clockwise across the mat, making a new zone for each layer I take apart.
If you want to get fancy, take a picture of each layer as you disassemble, shrink it down to fit in a corner of your magnet and use that to lay out your screws. A sheet of taped down paper and a pen will make it easy draw a diagram if you don't.
This was my first thought. It's an awesome idea but I'd be far too nervous putting a USB stick direct from China into my machine in a world where BadUSB exists.
I'm going to try and take everything apart later and put it back together and check one piece at a time. If anyone has any good troubleshooting guides for this it would be greatly appreciated.