Taking care of family members with terminal illnesses is what got me back into painting originally. It was something quiet I could do to keep busy while watching them, and when they were awake it was easy to maintain a conversation.
As far as bad hand problems, try painting primed white models with nothing but successive washes and dry brushing. You avoid a lot of the wrist motions that dick up your joints, and can get some really neat effects with minimal effort.
Taking care of family members with terminal illnesses is what got me back into painting originally. It was something quiet I could do to keep busy while watching them, and when they were awake it was easy to maintain a conversation.
While not as serious as terminal illness, I'm a carer for my partner and can confirm that it's an excellent and productive way in which to pass the time while keeping them company.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
That looks prett good and the highlights are nice and clean.
If you wanted you could add a another light grey highlight for the sharpest edges. It could make it look even more like shiny black armour.
+1
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So in the next week or so I'm going to actually start paining the Abyssal Dwarfs I'm finally getting around to finish putting together, and I'm trying to figure out a good paint scheme. For skin I think I'll go with grey like Duergar, with brass or bronze for their metal stuff, and black for details and symbols. I was thinking of making their beards white, but I might go with something more "normal", like brown or reddish, and for the color of like robes and shields and stuff I was thinking maybe orange. Mostly it's the beard/hair color and the main base color for clothing and non-metal equipment I'm still trying to decide on. Trying to go with an "Ariagful Goddess of Dark Flame" theme, but I don't want to make them too "monochromatic" as my brother put it (too much black, white, and gray everywhere) though I might go for it if my brass/bronze and (probably orange)? makes up for it.
Can you make that sort of monochromatic spectrum with a lot of your stuff look interesting, or should I shy away from having too many related shades the same non-color?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I'd say go full monochromatic on their skin and armor, but then contrast it with super bright flaming beards. Like full on bright fire effects for all their hair and eyebrows.
Speaking of fire, is there any sort of clear plasticine style material that is thick enough to stay in position but still malleable before it dries hard?
After watching a tutorial on building river terrain I thought that if there was a way to use intermingled/swirled thin layers of red/orange/yellow tinted "clear" material on an individual miniature it might make for a pretty cool fire effect if it was applied on top of paint on a Legion of the Damned marine.
0
Options
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Still working on Chenkov. I'm pretty close to being done.
Speaking of fire, is there any sort of clear plasticine style material that is thick enough to stay in position but still malleable before it dries hard?
After watching a tutorial on building river terrain I thought that if there was a way to use intermingled/swirled thin layers of red/orange/yellow tinted "clear" material on an individual miniature it might make for a pretty cool fire effect if it was applied on top of paint on a Legion of the Damned marine.
This gives me ideas, green for the sludge on the plagueclaw catapults....
0
Options
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Ok. I think im done. All I need to do is base him and cote him.
Dang, you're starting to get close to Komets with your sharp details! Props! (also congrats on another weekly top on CMON!).
ED: what's that brown metal on the backpack? Washed silver or some actual bronze?
Dang, you're starting to get close to Komets with your sharp details! Props! (also congrats on another weekly top on CMON!).
ED: what's that brown metal on the backpack? Washed silver or some actual bronze?
A mix of balth gold and vallejo polished gold, washed with aggrax and rehighlighted to gold. Then I added metal medium to the gold for the brightest spots.
Edit: and thank you! But I'm nowhere near Ben's level yet.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Anyone have good resources for doing talons/horns? I have to paint huge 3 arak spiders for an army and have no idea how to do their big smooth talons.
I was thinking of going with this tutorial but its not quite what I was looking for. I am worried that method might only look ok on craggy horns and not smooth talons.
Anyone have good resources for doing talons/horns? I have to paint huge 3 arak spiders for an army and have no idea how to do their big smooth talons.
I was thinking of going with this tutorial but its not quite what I was looking for. I am worried that method might only look ok on craggy horns and not smooth talons.
I learned the glazing technique for claws and horns from Duncan in the second part of his Putrid Blightkings video - it's the first bit he paints here:
Straight onto building Rowboat. The sprue layout is fantastic as it manages to avoid most of the mold lines.
In addition I've accepted my first commission job, painting five Khorgaroths for a friend at £20 a head. Airbrush batch painting will speed things up so hopefully it's an easy £100.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
+9
Options
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Well, I gave over 25 models and he said they would be done in 2 weeks.
2 week! That's more than I've painted in 2 years. And it'll only be $50.
@valhalla130 unless we're talking about some super basic speedpainting, that's ridiculous. I charge five bucks minimum for a standard SM (and they're really easy to paint!), and I live in the second world, goddamnit!
Well, I gave over 25 models and he said they would be done in 2 weeks.
2 week! That's more than I've painted in 2 years. And it'll only be $50.
Unless he's mostly doing it just for the heck of it and money doesn't matter, or as a favor, that's some bizarre pricing. Less than $2 a model? I always evaluate commission work based on hours per model. "Paint that guy to your requested level? 3 hours work at $X per hour. For that whole squad? Y hours."
+1
Options
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
You sure he didn't mean fifty each? Because two bucks a model barely covers the time spent unpacking them, never mind painting…
On the other hand, if they do come through at that price, can we get their details?
Got some group shots of my evil Frostgrave posse.
My particular magicman is a dark sorcerer who I've named 'Maligno' and his crew of nefarious minions. I really wanted to go for a whole 80's/90's fantasy movie movie theme: lots of purples and blacks, Jim Hensonesque muppet monsters, and killer bad guy names like 'Maligno'.
First up is the necromancer himself, and his not-so-loyal apprentice, 'Zurko'. His magic wand is a frog with a stick up it's bum.
Next are some of the better paid henchmen, and a lovable muppet.
These guys are the grunts. They carry treasure, get into brawls, and complain a lot.
Plucky archers who are responsible for the majority of my kill tally, and a very flimsy skeleton who distracts the enemy by falling apart and reanimating repeatedly.
Warbands in frostgrave cap out at 10 guys (plus the summoned skeleton), so unless I plan on hiring some more esoteric henchmen like barbarians, monks, or bards, this will probably be the set. They're already veterans in @Sharp101 's campaign, and we might be transitioning over to 'this is not a test' (or shadow war). Making skirmish sized warbands is such a nice break from my main army, and this is the first fantasy one I've done. Made entirely from bitzbox parts I had kicking around from other conversions (mostly empire men at arms that I used as inquisitorial crusaders)
Oh my god, I just tried to do some edge highlighting on an infantry model and absolutely massacred it
My hands are very shaky. Looks like I'm going to be practicing drybrushing and washes instead.
Edit: on top of this I simply cannot get my paints not to run and smear everywhere. They seem to be extremely thin no matter what I do. I've tried shaking them by hand or spinning them with a power drill at maximum speed and they run everywhere, even when I tried with an unwetted brush. What am i doing wrong? I guess I need to drop something in there as an agitator.
I did some experimentation. Honest opinions? Primary concern I have is that it might be a little too dark or not have enough contrast to be visually interesting. Needs to be re-based for sure, boots are pretty flat/bad, and I think I really need to hit the gold with some highlighting of some sort. Also a little concerned it looks a bit too much like a sham job, but can't decide.
My normal painting looks like this.
+3
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Oh my god, I just tried to do some edge highlighting on an infantry model and absolutely massacred it
My hands are very shaky. Looks like I'm going to be practicing drybrushing and washes instead.
Edit: on top of this I simply cannot get my paints not to run and smear everywhere. They seem to be extremely thin no matter what I do. I've tried shaking them by hand or spinning them with a power drill at maximum speed and they run everywhere, even when I tried with an unwetted brush. What am i doing wrong? I guess I need to drop something in there as an agitator.
An agitator might help, or you might not be doing anything wrong; some paints are just super thin. If you want to thicken it up, you could try adding a drop of Vallejo Retarder to some paint on your pallette. The Retarder is thick like gel, and I've found (since I'm using it to, y'know, retard the paint drying) that I often have to thin the paint back down to a usable consistency.
0
Options
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Oh my god, I just tried to do some edge highlighting on an infantry model and absolutely massacred it
My hands are very shaky. Looks like I'm going to be practicing drybrushing and washes instead.
Edit: on top of this I simply cannot get my paints not to run and smear everywhere. They seem to be extremely thin no matter what I do. I've tried shaking them by hand or spinning them with a power drill at maximum speed and they run everywhere, even when I tried with an unwetted brush. What am i doing wrong? I guess I need to drop something in there as an agitator.
Posts
As far as bad hand problems, try painting primed white models with nothing but successive washes and dry brushing. You avoid a lot of the wrist motions that dick up your joints, and can get some really neat effects with minimal effort.
While not as serious as terminal illness, I'm a carer for my partner and can confirm that it's an excellent and productive way in which to pass the time while keeping them company.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Test model for my Skitarii Skaven color scheme, please give protip
Protip: Keep doing exactly what you're doing.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The skin tone / red / green is already a really good combination of colors! Maybe a little *very* light gray-blue patina on the metal?
If you wanted you could add a another light grey highlight for the sharpest edges. It could make it look even more like shiny black armour.
Can you make that sort of monochromatic spectrum with a lot of your stuff look interesting, or should I shy away from having too many related shades the same non-color?
After watching a tutorial on building river terrain I thought that if there was a way to use intermingled/swirled thin layers of red/orange/yellow tinted "clear" material on an individual miniature it might make for a pretty cool fire effect if it was applied on top of paint on a Legion of the Damned marine.
This gives me ideas, green for the sludge on the plagueclaw catapults....
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
ED: what's that brown metal on the backpack? Washed silver or some actual bronze?
A mix of balth gold and vallejo polished gold, washed with aggrax and rehighlighted to gold. Then I added metal medium to the gold for the brightest spots.
Edit: and thank you! But I'm nowhere near Ben's level yet.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I was thinking of going with this tutorial but its not quite what I was looking for. I am worried that method might only look ok on craggy horns and not smooth talons.
I learned the glazing technique for claws and horns from Duncan in the second part of his Putrid Blightkings video - it's the first bit he paints here:
Excellent tutorial that opened up the possibilities of glazing to me.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
In addition I've accepted my first commission job, painting five Khorgaroths for a friend at £20 a head. Airbrush batch painting will speed things up so hopefully it's an easy £100.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
2 week! That's more than I've painted in 2 years. And it'll only be $50.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Unless he's mostly doing it just for the heck of it and money doesn't matter, or as a favor, that's some bizarre pricing. Less than $2 a model? I always evaluate commission work based on hours per model. "Paint that guy to your requested level? 3 hours work at $X per hour. For that whole squad? Y hours."
On the other hand, if they do come through at that price, can we get their details?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
eNozN1RVNTYwUDVRNVUzUjOsMVQzRCON1UyApAmYbQZRYwaRBlOqZSYA7ZUOyQ==
Time flys.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
My particular magicman is a dark sorcerer who I've named 'Maligno' and his crew of nefarious minions. I really wanted to go for a whole 80's/90's fantasy movie movie theme: lots of purples and blacks, Jim Hensonesque muppet monsters, and killer bad guy names like 'Maligno'.
First up is the necromancer himself, and his not-so-loyal apprentice, 'Zurko'. His magic wand is a frog with a stick up it's bum.
Next are some of the better paid henchmen, and a lovable muppet.
These guys are the grunts. They carry treasure, get into brawls, and complain a lot.
Plucky archers who are responsible for the majority of my kill tally, and a very flimsy skeleton who distracts the enemy by falling apart and reanimating repeatedly.
And finally a nice group shot.
I love the muppet guy the best. Any more planned?
My hands are very shaky. Looks like I'm going to be practicing drybrushing and washes instead.
Edit: on top of this I simply cannot get my paints not to run and smear everywhere. They seem to be extremely thin no matter what I do. I've tried shaking them by hand or spinning them with a power drill at maximum speed and they run everywhere, even when I tried with an unwetted brush. What am i doing wrong? I guess I need to drop something in there as an agitator.
My normal painting looks like this.
An agitator might help, or you might not be doing anything wrong; some paints are just super thin. If you want to thicken it up, you could try adding a drop of Vallejo Retarder to some paint on your pallette. The Retarder is thick like gel, and I've found (since I'm using it to, y'know, retard the paint drying) that I often have to thin the paint back down to a usable consistency.
First up, what brand paint are you using?