[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

Mayday

IMO that is still too thin. Paint should stay on the raised areas when you're putting on the base colour.
Remember that apart from the consistency, you also need to mind the amount of paint on the brush (i.e. wipe off the excess).

Echo

If you get pooling (and it's not a wash), there's too much in the brush. You want the brush closer to the damp end of the scale for basecoating.

It'll dry faster too for the next coat.

Athenor

What does pooling look like?

I guess that fits. Whenever I started the paint went on much more like I would expect, and then it would get fairly thin and scratchy, and then by the end it felt like I was using a lot more...

Edit: okay. Second pass went much faster, taking 30 minutes. It used less paint and I squeezed out the sponge more, and it is looking much better!

Athenor

Color is starting to emerge! Though I think the spot on my wet palate where I put the white was not wet enough, so the paint came out thick (and I'm still fighting my brush a bit).

Still, it's a base coat, and I'm glad I've got something other than blue to look at.

Echo

A pair of 2x4 boards under this (to make them easier to put away) and we're cooking.

Can't really fit a 6x4 table in my apartment, but I have plenty of friends with 6x4 tables.

Darkewolfe

Man, that is the best painted cat I've ever seen, but that's a weird base you have it on.

Dr_Keenbean

Painted this a few days ago. pewpew

honovere

Dr_Keenbean wrote: »

Painted this a few days ago. pewpew

I think I have to put some specular highlights on some of my "finished" models. Damn you!

Is that a straight up black as main colour or a dark grey?

Dr_Keenbean

3:1 panzer grey - black then sprayed from underneath in pure black then panel lined with black.

But in the future I intend to start with pure black.

Athenor

How long does something like that take?

Kneel

The contractors are demolishing the kitchen ahead of fitting a new one; found this guy under the sink cupboard unit - painted in around 1999.

TacoForce

After years of either bashing my head against the wall, or just straight up avoiding it, I finally found a way to paint white that I'm happy with. And his almost finished brother.

Der Waffle Mous

I can be your angle.... or yuor devil

honovere

Kneel wrote: »

The contractors are demolishing the kitchen ahead of fitting a new one; found this guy under the sink cupboard unit - painted in around 1999.

Some of the old tyranid design aspect from back then were much more interesting, like the fleshy heads for example.

Dayspring

Kneel wrote: »

The contractors are demolishing the kitchen ahead of fitting a new one; found this guy under the sink cupboard unit - painted in around 1999.

You gotta repaint him in your new nid scheme.
He would look boss as hell with a modern paint job

Chrysis

My next project will definitely not be space marine related, as all these rivets and small trim areas have murdered any motivation I have to paint. I've got to pull my finger out as well if I'm going to be ready by mid August.

honovere

How about some Mechanicus? I heard you like rivets and armour trims. With AM you can get all that and a bunch of tubes, cables, wires, and cog symbols.

Kneel

Dayspring wrote: »

Kneel wrote: »

The contractors are demolishing the kitchen ahead of fitting a new one; found this guy under the sink cupboard unit - painted in around 1999.

You gotta repaint him in your new nid scheme.
He would look boss as hell with a modern paint job

That's the plan, but he's at the back of the to-do list.

EDIT Man Tyranids got big since then.

-Loki-

He makes a good Tyranid Prime due to his size.

Dayspring

Chrysis wrote: »

My next project will definitely not be space marine related, as all these rivets and small trim areas have murdered any motivation I have to paint. I've got to pull my finger out as well if I'm going to be ready by mid August.

I'd better get cracking on these guys too

Custom Special

Your blue looks really clean, and that battle damaged white looks great!

I really want Eldar just to do a big Wraith host force, but Wraithguard are disappointingly expensive.

honovere

Yeah, Wraith units are currently the most enticing option for Eldar in my opinion. They look great, are all plastic except for the HQ, and the units mostly have good rules.

Regarding the price, yes, they are expensive but at least you dont need a lot of them considering that Wraith infantry cost between 35 and 52 points per model. With power levels you can get a Farseer, a Spiritseer, and 20 Wraith infantry and are already at power level 50. Add two Wraithlords, a Wraithknight and a Hemlock and you're already at 101. Thats 26 models for about 2000 points.

Badablack

If I ever did an eldar army it would be an Exodite wraithhost using fantasy treemen. I think they have the right size models for all the wraith types with that recent sylvaneth relaunch.

Kneel

Slow progress on account of the kitchen being filled with contractors and barely being able to move in the front room.

Brainleech

The Robot shows converting and a personality
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYHy9Fq2HME

SmokeStacks

Someone switched his CPU from read only to read/write mode.

-Loki-

A few more Neverborn, this time Nephilim. I've had the stuff from the starter for a while, so I did the Scion and Blood Wretches. Angel Eyes will be next after I bash out a couple more Gremlins.

TIFunkalicious

Close to finished. Might choose a different base texture. Also amazing how you don't notice leftovers from clipping until you paint over it and take a picture

Echo

There's no better way to spot missed mold lines than taking a picture. It is known.

Brainleech

That tool that GW sells that removes mold lines
How does it work?

Viking

Brainleech wrote: »

That tool that GW sells that removes mold lines
How does it work?

you hold it at roughly 45 degrees to the model and lightly drag it along the mold line,
I have one and I love it, works a lot better than I was expecting.
That said, I don't think you need the super special GW tool to get the same effect as any hard metal with a decent edge should do.

Kneel

Yeah the back of a craft knife works just fine.

Mayday

I just use a craft knife gently.

Mr_Rose

Kneel wrote: »

Yeah the back of a craft knife works just fine.

Sometimes I forget and accidentally use the sharp edge. Works the same, just dulls the blade into uselessness.

Dayspring

wait...you can use the back of a craft knife?

Kneel

Anything small and scrapey really. 'Course that gets fucking complicated with tyranids because of course the mould lines run right down the middle of every scything talon arm.

honovere

I'm trying to put together an old Forgeworld Wave Serpent I had lying around.

I now remember why I didn't start putting it together after I finished lhe last one.

Dayspring

Finished this guy. Well, almost finished. I think i'll do his knee blue to tie in to my craftworlders, and his base still needs snow.

McGibs

Dayspring wrote: »

wait...you can use the back of a craft knife?

^

Jester is looking awesome, the blue cape turned out really well!
I feel like the studs on the back of his cowel could be that bright gold to make 'em pop, but then I just like contrasting studs *browwriggle*

honovere

I'm rebasing some old models. Phoenix Kings and Wraithguard look so much better on 40mm bases. It should also help with the metal models not falling over so easily and by putting the old bases on top of the new bases it mght also help with the size difference if I should get some plastic Wraithguard.