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[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

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Posts

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    I do like the GW tool versus the back of a craft knife just because you can't stab yourself with the tool, really.

    What is this I don't even.
    italianranma
  • see317see317 Taco Count 2017: 61 Registered User regular
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    I do like the GW tool versus the back of a craft knife just because you can't stab yourself with the tool, really.

    I bet you could if you tried hard enough,

    Ringo wrote: »
    Well except what see317 said. That guy's always wrong.
    Mr_RoseElvenshaeNipsitalianranma
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    see317 wrote: »
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    I do like the GW tool versus the back of a craft knife just because you can't stab yourself with the tool, really.

    I bet you could if you tried hard enough,

    I feel like that's actually precisely the difference he is getting at. :P

  • PierceNeckPierceNeck Simi Valley, CARegistered User regular
    Is there a service that will assemble models and clean up the mold lines/etc? I have a bunch of large resin models I want to paint, but would like them to be put together by someone who's experienced. I already managed to very carefully snap a staff in half and then drill a hole to pin it back together in a spot other than the center. I don't want them based or painted, I enjoy doing that part.

    And it's only because these models aren't cheap. The regular plastic mans I have no problem messing with.

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I like the assembling. Just having someone doing the clean up of all the parts beforehand would be the best, though.

  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    What's the best way to get the crap out of an airbrush nozzle? I just fucked mine trying to clean it. :(

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
    For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.

  • NisiNisi Registered User regular
    I accidentally destroyed my Iwata HP-CS nozzle by cleaning it too thoroughly with a piper cleaner. Bent the tip of the nozzle outward without even knowing, I found out because next time I went to use the airbrush it sprayed paint everywhere with little resistance.

    I found this video to be a good example of a deep clean



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  • EchoEcho Staring is caring Moderator mod
    I've been thinking of buying an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the airbrush, they can be found for 40-50 bucks.

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    edited July 11
    Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
    For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.

    Yup that funnel bit.

    Sounds similar to what I was doing. I've managed to deform the end of it ever so slightly. Was being pretty vigorous in my attempts to clean out some dried up surface primer. Exactly like Nisi described. Lesson learned.

    J on
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    J wrote: »
    Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
    For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.

    Yup that funnel bit.

    Sounds similar to what I was doing. I've managed to deform the end of it ever so slightly. Was being pretty vigorous in my attempts to clean out some dried up surface primer. Exactly like Nisi described. Lesson learned.

    Womp. :(
    I think I still have the spare one my 105 came with. It's the needle I bent, but whatever, it's still worked fine so I haven't rushed to replace it. Put that on the list of "nice things to have some day when I have a steady job again." :P

  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    I've not had half the time to paint that I'd intended.

    And only 30% of that is due to whisky.
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    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    I often think of getting an airbrush, then I go to my brothers house and he tells me he spent 4 hours painting with his airbrush, 3 hours of which was stripping and cleaning.

  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited July 12
    Mades a Chaos lord for my Word Bearers with some parts I had lying around.

    Was originally a model I made a while back, but priming issues made me strip it and that messed up some of the plastic bits I used so it was rebuilt. Primer is still a little fuzzy but I should be able to salvage it.

    StRcPnj.jpg?3

    Sharp101 on
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  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    Some quick shots of some of the things on my workbench, a Chaos Fireraptor Gunship, and a weird little spider walker I converted up.
    chaos-fireraptor-wip01.jpg
    admech-spiderbot-wip01.jpg

    website_header.jpg
    BetsuniElvenshaehonoveretzeentchlingTheColonelDiannaoChong
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    Lawsuit from LFL incoming in 5 ... 4 ... 3 ...

    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    The... scantily clad women's football league?

    website_header.jpg
    Elvenshaeitalianranma
  • BetsuniBetsuni Insert Disk 4 and Press Any Key to Continue Registered User regular
    edited July 12
    McGibs wrote: »
    The... scantily clad women's football league?

    This is what @Elvenshae was referencing.

    http://www.starwars.com/databank/dwarf-spider-droid

    He actually means Disney now since they own Lucasfilm LTD (aka LFL).

    Edit: Sorry if you were being sarcastic. >_< My mind is really not working properly this morning. I just looked up LFL on google and saw what you meant.

    Betsuni on
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  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited July 12
    Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).

    McGibs on
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  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    McGibs wrote: »
    Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).

    LFL is Lucasfilm Licensing, which still exists, I think, even under the Disney brand. :D Their initials are on basically everything Star Wars.

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    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
  • BetsuniBetsuni Insert Disk 4 and Press Any Key to Continue Registered User regular
    Elvenshae wrote: »
    McGibs wrote: »
    Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).

    LFL is Lucasfilm Licensing, which still exists, I think, even under the Disney brand. :D Their initials are on basically everything Star Wars.

    Ah ok, I've heard of the other one but forgot Licensing. I should remember since the X-wing thread...

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Give the Fireraptor swivelling wings and you get another Star Wars model.

  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    -Loki- wrote: »
    I often think of getting an airbrush, then I go to my brothers house and he tells me he spent 4 hours painting with his airbrush, 3 hours of which was stripping and cleaning.

    I think your brother is doing something wrong then. All I do to keep my airbrushes clean is to take about 10 minutes at the end of a painting session to thoroughly clean out the paint cup in the sink, then blast and backflush (except the Sotar 20/20) water through until it sprays clear. Then I run a little bit of Iwata airbrush cleaner through and leave the cup about half full with the lid on.

    Before I paint, I run a little airbrush cleaner through to make sure it's working. If it's not, 99% of the time it's because of built up paint on the needle stem in the cup, which is a quick breakdown and scrub to fix. The Iwata Eclipse I have is much more prone to this than the Sotar.

    In 5 years, I've done a deep cleaning on my Iwata once. Which was just soaking it in simple green for a day, disassembled. Then thoroughly scrubbing everything and rebuilding over about 30 minutes.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
    TheColonel
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    edited July 12
    Yeah, I accidentally got some un-thinned paint in my cheapest gravity brush the other day and had to do a full teardown to get it working properly again but I didn't do that until I used the paint in the cup because I'm cheap like that, and if it toook half an hour to do it's because I was feeling lazy.

    If you don't screw up a minute or so between colours plus five to ten at the end of a session is plenty.

    Mr_Rose on
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    NipsHeffling
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    I'm at that horrible stage of painting where it's dragging out and I just want it done so I can move onto other projects.

    It's a battle to not rush it.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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    honovereDiannaoChong
  • ShinyRedKnightShinyRedKnight Registered User regular
    So lately I've been getting tired of using hobby primer like citadel, as it costs so much and can be sensitive to weather. I've heard that non-hobby primers from companies like krylon may be more forgiving and produce much better results. And the price is of course great. Does anyone use non-hobby brands here? Any suggestions on a specific primer, or is there anything I should look for? I'm worried about getting something that may damage the plastic or not work with model paints.

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  • KoregKoreg Registered User regular
    I think I use Krylon Matte Black. I just buy a huge can of it for not too much. I spray outside and the only issues I've had with it is when I try to spray when it's too humid and the paint gets a little weird.

    FroThulhu
  • BreakfastPMBreakfastPM Registered User regular
    So lately I've been getting tired of using hobby primer like citadel, as it costs so much and can be sensitive to weather. I've heard that non-hobby primers from companies like krylon may be more forgiving and produce much better results. And the price is of course great. Does anyone use non-hobby brands here? Any suggestions on a specific primer, or is there anything I should look for? I'm worried about getting something that may damage the plastic or not work with model paints.

    Duplicolor Sandable Primer is what I've always used and never had any problems with it.

  • TheColonelTheColonel Registered User regular
    If you've got access to an airbrush, this stuff is liquid gold.

  • Jam WarriorJam Warrior Registered User regular
    edited July 14
    Musing some post apocalyptic stuff as some guys at the club are trying out Scrappers, a post-apoc skirmish campaign system from the Frostgrave publisher.

    I was wondering if AoS Iron Jaw Brutes would work as super mutant type guys if done in a human skin tone. I had assumed somebody out there must have had the idea of doing pink skin orks before, but a quick google seemed to fail me. Many rainbow colours but no human skin tone. Anyone seen anything?

    Jam Warrior on
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  • EchoEcho Staring is caring Moderator mod
    It's important to coordinate your colors.

    xegQiG8l.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    BreakfastPMElvenshaeShinyRedKnightDr_KeenbeanDayspringFroThulhuA Dabble Of TheloniusNipsitalianranmaFuselage
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited July 14
    Those look like gummy dice. I bet they taste like blue raspberry, Tzeench's favorite warpfruit.

    McGibs on
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  • ShinyRedKnightShinyRedKnight Registered User regular
    Thank you @Koreg, @BreakfastPM , and @TheColonel ! I don't have an airbrush, so I'll check out the krylon and duplicolor. Some people who like p3 primer are convinced it's actually a rebranded version of duplicolor.

    And Echo, I would like to second that those dice do look delicious. They would be devoured were they on the table I was playing on.

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    PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
  • BreakfastPMBreakfastPM Registered User regular
    Thank you @Koreg, @BreakfastPM , and @TheColonel ! I don't have an airbrush, so I'll check out the krylon and duplicolor. Some people who like p3 primer are convinced it's actually a rebranded version of duplicolor.

    And Echo, I would like to second that those dice do look delicious. They would be devoured were they on the table I was playing on.

    If you try the Duplicolor make sure it says "sandable" on it. I accidentally got a different kind once and it was hot garbage.

  • ShinyRedKnightShinyRedKnight Registered User regular
    Yeah, that's what worries me the most about brands not marketed for miniatures.

    Honestly I think primer is my biggest hurdle, just thinking about which one to get and how to use it is like a brick wall. When I painted bones, I was flying through them since I didn't prime them.

    And then there's the worry about topcoat/sealor. Though it's easier there since most just go with testors dullcote or krylon matte topcoat.

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  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    If I need spray primer I just go with Army Painter. It's expensive but I like the product and know the difficulties with the product.

  • ShinyRedKnightShinyRedKnight Registered User regular
    I was actually thinking of Army Painter due to the colors - it should make up for the extra price due to less money and time spent on the basecoat. However I had heard some people have issues with them, but from what I understand it may be a result of their primers requiring a different method of application.

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  • A Dabble Of TheloniusA Dabble Of Thelonius It has been a doozy of a dayRegistered User regular
    Alright gang. I need recommendations for some colors. Also painting tips for same.

    I need to paint a good bit of leather. Browns and off brown

    Educate me?

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I was actually thinking of Army Painter due to the colors - it should make up for the extra price due to less money and time spent on the basecoat. However I had heard some people have issues with them, but from what I understand it may be a result of their primers requiring a different method of application.

    Army painter behaves quite differently than GW primer, that's true. Distance from the Model was the biggest change I had to figure out.

  • ShinyRedKnightShinyRedKnight Registered User regular
    edited July 15
    Alright gang. I need recommendations for some colors. Also painting tips for same.

    I need to paint a good bit of leather. Browns and off brown

    Educate me?

    I'm still learning, but one of the initial challenges I had was leather. The drab, earthy tones made it hard for me to do shading or highlights with a limited paint set and knowledge. However, once I did a wash with agrax earthshade, the leather really started to pop. I feel leather and other brown pieces are more forgiving with excess washes, and naturally benefit from shades/washes, especially if you have to do a lot of leather.

    ShinyRedKnight on
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