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[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

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Posts

  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Army Painter washes for a hundred years forever

    webguy20J
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Army dark tone is my go-to replacement, but it I will never replace badab black in my heart. Nuln Oil is a poor replacement, other than using the gloss version for oily stuff.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    edited September 9
    Just a crappy photo since my heart's not in it:
    N1ihxdt.jpg

    With this sorry bunch I officially end my commission painting career (except for maybe a bit of Deatwatch for my friend).

    Mayday on
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  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Registered User regular
    They look really good!

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  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    edited September 9
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    They look really good!

    Thanks! I've realised I've lost the ability of painting economically - it's full precision no matter the price. So it's pretty much stopped making sense to do it for money.
    I've added a slightly better photo though.

    Mayday on
  • TIFunkaliciousTIFunkalicious Kicking back in NebraskaRegistered User regular
    Did a plagueman in ~90 minutes today. I think forcing myself to not drag my feet too long on a single model has improved my painting
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  • webguy20webguy20 Registered User regular
    Damn that was done in 90 minutes? Fuckin' hell that is awesome.

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  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    I use GW's Nuln Oil.

    ElvenshaeLanlaorn
  • Nova_CNova_C I have the need The need for speedRegistered User regular
    edited September 10
    I am back! I dunno if you guys remember, I was starting to work some months ago on some of the Reaper minis I got in their very first kickstarter. I find painting minis very difficult! The precision is what kills me. I'm working on it, but those really detailed minis that fill this thread may as well be painted by magic to me. :P

    Anyway, I painted up a devil for an encounter in the D&D game I'm running. I kept it simple and I like how it turned out!
    21458238_10156302957394796_8238464113153258499_o.jpg?oh=547b7e46305c633b55fc0ad9a9472038&oe=5A5DA20A
    21586816_10156302957384796_5186025040161282790_o.jpg?oh=5e2885563701b0348049253db632b8f5&oe=5A191096

    I was painting up some skeletons for another encounter and realized that the only wood brown I have is walnut brown, which looked very black to me, so I ordered some paints from Reaper directly to fill out some holes in my colour options. Got a few selected minis as well. Can't wait to paint the Dracolisk and Giant Scorpion.

    Nova_C on
    Tube wrote: »
    No, I hate D&D more than the other subforums because it's more of a pain in my arse.
    Elvenshaevalhalla130Lord_AsmodeusBetsuniNipsExtreaminatusMago
  • MazzyxMazzyx I can dig it. Registered User regular
    I finished one wing of my Heldrake. This is a multiweek project of slow spurts and such. I love the claws.

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  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.

    Lord_Asmodeus.gifLord_Asmodeus2.gif
  • webguy20webguy20 Registered User regular
    So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.

    If I do a wash i do it across the entire mini. I feel that if I leave parts unwashed that it looks odd. Like chainmail benefits hugely from a wash to really bring out the rings. Same thing with notches or scratches in weapons and armor.

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  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    You can use washes on every part of the model. I use multiple washes per mini. I'll give my yellow marines a Nuln Oil (black) wash over their base coat, then when I'm doing skin, use a flesh wash like Reikland Flesh or what I still have, the old Ogryn Flesh, metal bits get another Nuln Oil wash before they get highlights. The red trim gets a Carroburg Crimson or Baal Red wash. It all depends on what you're doing, but washes help to bring out your highlights, by deepening the recesses.

  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.

    Unless I am doing something really specific and unique for some reason, wash everything and highlight everything (that highlight can come from drybrushing, edge highlighting, or some other technique.)

    Elvenshae
  • webguy20webguy20 Registered User regular
    It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.

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  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Hello strangers.

    The Hierodule is killing me so I'm taking a break from it. Instead I'm working on the second component for a diorama (the Rockgrinder was the first), a Genestealer Cult Leman Russ. The colours are deliberately aping those of my Tyranids.

    golpg28qmclm.jpg

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Kneel wrote: »
    Hello strangers.

    The Hierodule is killing me so I'm taking a break from it. Instead I'm working on the second component for a diorama (the Rockgrinder was the first), a Genestealer Cult Leman Russ. The colours are deliberately aping those of my Tyranids.

    Pretty sure that's its job :P

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
    KneelElvenshaevalhalla130
  • EchoEcho Where da waaagh at? Moderator mod
    webguy20 wrote: »
    It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.

    The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.

    tmf2ltm9jnrj.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
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  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Registered User regular
    Echo wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.

    The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.

    tmf2ltm9jnrj.jpg

    Fuck that looks so good.

    see317Elvenshaewebguy20valhalla130jammuVeagleLord_AsmodeusNisiJustTeeCasually HardcoreBucketman
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    I was in the shower today planning what I wanted to do for tonight when it occurred to me that I missed a portion on the last squad I painted. Looked at the pic, and yep, I completely forgot to paint the grips under the bolter barrels black.

    MG]

    MNC DoverBucketman
  • WatcherWatcher Registered User regular
    @Dayspring I may be too late, but, NOPE, no grass. That dude kills EVERYTHING in his path.

    valhalla130
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Echo wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.

    The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.

    tmf2ltm9jnrj.jpg

    Fuck that looks so good.

    He's got some awesome stuff. Google Nard Tyranids. For example.

    170422_md-Expert%2C%20Nard%20Tyranids%2C%20Nards%20Tyranids%2C%20Tyranids.jpg
    383295_md-Base%2C%20Bio-titan%2C%20Flying%2C%20Pink%2C%20Tyranids.JPG

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I'm borrowing the gf's camera. First pic of one of the finished Kataphrons (sans Forge World symbol. Haven't figured out how to realistically achieve the Stgies VIII symbol across an army.)

    DNcsktp.jpg?2

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  • JustTeeJustTee Registered User regular
    -Loki- wrote: »
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Echo wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.

    The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.

    tmf2ltm9jnrj.jpg

    Fuck that looks so good.

    He's got some awesome stuff. Google Nard Tyranids. For example.

    170422_md-Expert%2C%20Nard%20Tyranids%2C%20Nards%20Tyranids%2C%20Tyranids.jpg
    383295_md-Base%2C%20Bio-titan%2C%20Flying%2C%20Pink%2C%20Tyranids.JPG

    HOW.

    Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
    webguy20
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Like this.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
    Heffling
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Like this.

    I didn't expect it to be layered! Good God!

  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    It works so well because there's a huge contrast change from the recesses to the base color then a softer change from the base color to highlights and it's executed with 100% consistency across the model. I'm curious to see if the effect would be as striking with darker colors.

    Not curious enough to actually do it though. If you paint even a single model like that you've got to commit to doing the whole army that way.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Holy shit @honovere those are some crisp colours!

    Dayspring
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited September 11
    Mayday wrote: »
    Holy shit honovere those are some crisp colours!

    Thanks. I'm pretty happy about the reds. It's actually just layers of evil sun scarlet and wild rider red over mephiston base (or khorne red? I forgot.) with some strong tone wash in the recesses.

    Using a proper camera also helps. My old one can't show off reds for shit.

    edit: Made a few more pictures of the unit. Looking at them I might need to give one of them another layer of rust/dust on the tracks.

    sOt6iCw.jpg
    ZayT6X5.jpg
    8gHHvIy.jpg

    honovere on
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  • TIFunkaliciousTIFunkalicious Kicking back in NebraskaRegistered User regular
    My Blightcaller should be finished later this week. Plague marines are somehow a pleasant break from a land raider

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  • LubonyLubony Registered User regular
    edited September 12
    Got moved into the new house so finally painting again. Ork boss. Tati of in store for an hour looking for inspiration. Landed on a broadside.
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    Lubony on
    No rules or morals except those you choose to accept and live by.
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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    While I had the camera I took the opprtunity to take a few mor pictures of the Drakenmoor Warboars.

    D1pb8Fe.jpg
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    KrzNrv0.jpg
    lqOtckc.jpg

    Have to work a bit on getting the focus right.

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  • KruiteKruite Registered User regular
    Dayspring wrote: »
    bj98bix74z32.jpg
    Finished this guy. Might add some grass to his base or something though. What do you think?

    I'd make a slightly lighter shade of the turquoise and thin line highlight part of the eye. To try and get the glowy ominous eye feel

    MNC Dover
  • DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    really love that Orange and blue color scheme with your Orc blood bowl team, also would like to point how fucking amazing the new sculpts for blood bowl actually are.

    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

    Ken O
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    He needs to paint the humans up in black/red Georgia Bulldog colors to make it even.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    valhalla130
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    He needs to paint the humans up in black/red Georgia Bulldog colors to make it even.

    I'm not onto Football personally, so I I'm taking the favourite teams of a couple I'm friends with for the color schemes. This is her team, his team is going to be white, grey, blue, with silver helmets.

  • Jam WarriorJam Warrior Registered User regular
    edited September 14
    Am I missing a trick? Army painter sprays are great, but the matched dropper bottle paints seem to always be ridiculously thin and poorly colour mixed even though I shake them until my arms ache. Is there some special technique for dropper bottles? I've always been using GW flip tops before. Is it because the bottles are too full and the stuff in the top of the dropper just isn't mixing?

    Jam Warrior on
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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Buy some tiny ball bearings and drop one in each bottle to act as an agitator. I'm still baffled that Reaper is the only paint maker that bothers to put agitators in their dropper bottles.

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  • NorgothNorgoth Registered User regular
    Am I missing a trick? Army painter sprays are great, but the matched dropper bottle paints seem to always be ridiculously thin and poorly colour mixed even though I shake them until my arms ache. Is there some special technique for dropper bottles? I've always been using GW flip tops before. Is it because the bottles are too full and the stuff in the top of the dropper just isn't mixing?

    Most people just put a ball bearing or a bead or something similar in the paint to act as an agitator, it helps a lot.

    Personally I've found rolling dropper bottlers between my hands as well as shaking up and down helps.

    Also I've found that sometimes with some dropper bottles even after all the shaking the world the first drop is just awful, like you know when your squeeze some ketchup and the first bit is all vinegar with a splash of red and then the second squeeze is fine? Sometimes I get that with paint.

    Dr_Keenbean
  • FuselageFuselage Bantha Three ValhallaRegistered User regular
    Ball bearings?! That's genius, I need to look at where to buy bearings, do you just go to hardware stores?

    Elvenshae
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