Due to a security update, you may have to reset your password. Don’t panic, nothing has gone wrong and your password is safe. If you don’t have access to that email, send Tube a message at [email protected] More info here: https://status.vanillaforums.com/incidents/2zdqxf3bt7mj
Our new Indie Games subforum is now open for business in G&T. Go and check it out, you might land a code for a free game. If you're developing an indie game and want to post about it, follow these directions. If you don't, he'll break your legs! Hahaha! Seriously though.

[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

18182848687103

Posts

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    That's a fantastic table and it's nice to see something besides a generic sci-fi-theme.

    ArcticLancerExtreaminatusNipsDiannaoChongKhraulFroThulhu
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Holy shit, that table is amazing. Good job on it!

    [Edit] To avoid double posting, I just wanted to say I'm super curious about the way those buildings are made. I'm finally starting to put some time into working up designs using my Glowforge, and making baby steps toward understanding what works well and what doesn't. For instance, here is my first very sample of some tabletop terrain (wood-paneled interior) I'm working toward:
    gvYNC28.jpg

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    ElvenshaeArthilDiannaoChongIanatorBetsuniWatcher
  • AsherAsher Registered User regular
    What part of the production process are you curious about? They are, as I'm sure you know, laser cut mdf. The lead designer is actual qualified product designer/concept artist/design teacher who has won enough Golden Daemons that I once witnessed him and and another Golden Daemon winner play a 6 objective game of 40k using Golden Daemon trophies as objectives, so they've got some serious design chops behind them. Craig is a wizard who makes magic with mdf.

    Things my Red Terror has Swallowed Whole: A Mentors Librarian, a Fire Warrior Sash'Ui. Total Points: 109 (so far...)
    "Leapin' and Hoppin' on a Warpshadow" - Mah Nids
    The Swordwind Rises! - Biel Tan. All Aspects. All the time.
    "Before seeking Victory, first make yourself Invulnerable to defeat" - Sneaky sneaky Raptors
    ElvenshaeCustom SpecialtzeentchlingFuselage
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Asher wrote: »
    What part of the production process are you curious about? They are, as I'm sure you know, laser cut mdf. The lead designer is actual qualified product designer/concept artist/design teacher who has won enough Golden Daemons that I once witnessed him and and another Golden Daemon winner play a 6 objective game of 40k using Golden Daemon trophies as objectives, so they've got some serious design chops behind them. Craig is a wizard who makes magic with mdf.

    ...Christ.

    I'm just a schmuck former-engineer with an expensive tool and a dream. I guess my only real pertinent question is what he does to minimize charring on his cuts? Other than that....ummm, let him know his stuff is amazing?

    [Edit] Also, what do you use to paint kits like this? I can't imagine wanting to use expensive miniatures paint on any sizable mdf kit.

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Pickle jar marine work in progress (Pallid Hand scheme death guard).... someone said use your fridge for good lighting on minis.... that actually seems to be true.

    The more I work on these the more I realize I'm missing some key colors, mostly blues.... I began thinking I'd just bulk paint a few of them with screaming skull and a sepia wash, just to get the armor down. I never made it to my second marine, but I didn't end up with almost all of my paints opened and in use on this guy.

    I need to figure out how to get a smoother finish on the armor using a wash (or maybe don't use a wash? Drybrush instead? I don't know). Pretty happy with censer smoke v1.0... I think I know where to improve.

    9dhadcteru1c.png

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
    BetsuniDiannaoChong
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    If you apply the wash lightly across the whole model there shouldn’t be any tide marks. Don’t use water to thin the wash either, that will make it blotchy and uneven, get an acrylic thinner from Vallejo.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Are there instructions on the thinner for ratios or just 1:1?

    As is, it looks ok, but definitely not what I was hoping for.

    Khraul on
    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    1:3 is probably a better ratio, it’ll be pretty thin but you can always do multiple washes. Just don’t slop it on carelessly or you end up with pools of wash leaking everywhere.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    Khraul
  • AsherAsher Registered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    Asher wrote: »
    What part of the production process are you curious about? They are, as I'm sure you know, laser cut mdf. The lead designer is actual qualified product designer/concept artist/design teacher who has won enough Golden Daemons that I once witnessed him and and another Golden Daemon winner play a 6 objective game of 40k using Golden Daemon trophies as objectives, so they've got some serious design chops behind them. Craig is a wizard who makes magic with mdf.

    ...Christ.

    I'm just a schmuck former-engineer with an expensive tool and a dream. I guess my only real pertinent question is what he does to minimize charring on his cuts? Other than that....ummm, let him know his stuff is amazing?

    [Edit] Also, what do you use to paint kits like this? I can't imagine wanting to use expensive miniatures paint on any sizable mdf kit.

    I'm honestly not sure about minimisation of the design process, but he often does things in no intuitive ways no minimise cuts needed. He designs everything in sketchup first, then breaks it down for cutting. He just makes all of his objects 3mm thick to match the mdf and then shoves bits together to make what he wants, then slits them apart and makes them a single layer which he then exports (not sure on the specifics there) to the right kind of file for the cutter. All the design work I've done has been straight into Corel Draw and then to the laser, but I've only been doing simple stuff like bases and objectives.

    Here is his 115 odd page design plog. He shows a lot of WiP stuff and renders, so you can get a good idea how he iterates on his process and see how the models are put together. Craig is a mad genius and I think on of the things MS has over the many other Laser cut scenery places is the cleverness of his designs.

    As for the paint .... Hahaha! We ususally do jsut use miniature paint. Colour sprays and an Airbrush are your best friends. Do as much as you can with a rattle can then airbrush over that for more depth. Most of the buildings in the Arabian Table got a colour spray base, then 2 layers of airbrush highlighting, then drybrush details and freehand etc. We killed 3 half full rattle cans, made a dent in a couple more and probably used the best part of like 5 Vallejo dropper bottles. That's not including the baseboard which was done with mis-tints from our local paint shop. Painting terrain is expensive if you do it 'properly'. You can get away with whatever you like so long as it's matt though. MDF is really thirsty, so I do recommend priming heavily.

    Things my Red Terror has Swallowed Whole: A Mentors Librarian, a Fire Warrior Sash'Ui. Total Points: 109 (so far...)
    "Leapin' and Hoppin' on a Warpshadow" - Mah Nids
    The Swordwind Rises! - Biel Tan. All Aspects. All the time.
    "Before seeking Victory, first make yourself Invulnerable to defeat" - Sneaky sneaky Raptors
    NipsKhraul
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Been experimenting to get a decent looking color for my tyranid bases, think I’m going to stick with this one.
    31BWRZJ.jpg

    It’s pretty close to the Zerg creep, going to do the foliage as a vivid green and purple. Maybe put some of those new creeper vines across later.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    ElvenshaehonovereLanlaornExtreaminatusArcticLancerNisiJustTeeMazzyxKhraulNipsFroThulhuDiannaoChong
  • KneelKneel Ten thick coats Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Hive Tyrant work in progress.

    Having tried several new schemes (and ultimately growing to hate every one of them), I've retreated back towards good ol' green and brown, but using the carapace texture technique from the one-off Ravener I painted last year.

    It'll take a while but it's coming along well.

    yqjtxr0v4obh.jpg

    Kneel on
    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
    KhraulhonovereNipsElvenshaeKoregFroThulhuBadablackvalhalla130Nytewarriorsee317IanatorEchostopgapfrayDiannaoChong
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    Nice.

    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
    The Disappearance of Inigo Sharpe: Tomas à Dunsanin
    FroThulhuKhraulIanator
  • ToothyToothy Registered User regular
    That looks fantastic. Have you thought about adding nicks to the edges of the carapace plates to play into the scheme?

  • KoregKoreg Registered User regular
    That scaling is absurd. Holy cow.

    Good job

    If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
    KhraulElvenshaeNipssee317tzeentchling
  • KneelKneel Ten thick coats Registered User regular
    Toothy wrote: »
    That looks fantastic. Have you thought about adding nicks to the edges of the carapace plates to play into the scheme?

    Do you mean physically nicking the plastic? Not sure about that.

    If you mean painting on nicks and scratches then I'm totally on board with that.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
  • Anon the FelonAnon the Felon In bat country.Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Asher wrote: »
    Nips wrote: »
    Asher wrote: »
    What part of the production process are you curious about? They are, as I'm sure you know, laser cut mdf. The lead designer is actual qualified product designer/concept artist/design teacher who has won enough Golden Daemons that I once witnessed him and and another Golden Daemon winner play a 6 objective game of 40k using Golden Daemon trophies as objectives, so they've got some serious design chops behind them. Craig is a wizard who makes magic with mdf.

    ...Christ.

    I'm just a schmuck former-engineer with an expensive tool and a dream. I guess my only real pertinent question is what he does to minimize charring on his cuts? Other than that....ummm, let him know his stuff is amazing?

    [Edit] Also, what do you use to paint kits like this? I can't imagine wanting to use expensive miniatures paint on any sizable mdf kit.

    I'm honestly not sure about minimisation of the design process, but he often does things in no intuitive ways no minimise cuts needed. He designs everything in sketchup first, then breaks it down for cutting. He just makes all of his objects 3mm thick to match the mdf and then shoves bits together to make what he wants, then slits them apart and makes them a single layer which he then exports (not sure on the specifics there) to the right kind of file for the cutter. All the design work I've done has been straight into Corel Draw and then to the laser, but I've only been doing simple stuff like bases and objectives.

    Here is his 115 odd page design plog. He shows a lot of WiP stuff and renders, so you can get a good idea how he iterates on his process and see how the models are put together. Craig is a mad genius and I think on of the things MS has over the many other Laser cut scenery places is the cleverness of his designs.

    As for the paint .... Hahaha! We ususally do jsut use miniature paint. Colour sprays and an Airbrush are your best friends. Do as much as you can with a rattle can then airbrush over that for more depth. Most of the buildings in the Arabian Table got a colour spray base, then 2 layers of airbrush highlighting, then drybrush details and freehand etc. We killed 3 half full rattle cans, made a dent in a couple more and probably used the best part of like 5 Vallejo dropper bottles. That's not including the baseboard which was done with mis-tints from our local paint shop. Painting terrain is expensive if you do it 'properly'. You can get away with whatever you like so long as it's matt though. MDF is really thirsty, so I do recommend priming heavily.

    If you hit the MDF with a light coat if lacquer (I'd spray it with a rattle can if you have the space), then scuff it with a bit of something like Scotch-Brite, and blow off the dust (you can wipe it off with a very slightly damp cloth if your air compressor isn't powerful enough), it will be a lot less paint thirsty. Dry, Scuff, Clean. You're not looking to seal the MDF, just use something easier and less expensive than paint to fill it's structure. You can, obviously, varnish over the paint, and something like a spar varnish shouldn't have any problems sticking to the lacquer.

    You can also use a material called "sanding sealer", which should be even cheaper than lacquer, but doesn't usually come in a rattle can. If you have access to a formal finish booth or spray gun, I'd use sanding sealer (because it's more cost effective at that kind of scale).

    It will also help stiffen the MDF up a bit, and help keep the corners hard to prevent any chipping.

    Anon the Felon on
    Nips
  • BizazedoBizazedo Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Nice, @Kneel . I may not have been paying attention, but I think I saw that pic in a FB group I joined recently today.

    Very well done or someone's stealing your pic and passing it off as their own haha.

    Bizazedo on
    XBL: Bizazedo
    PSN: Bizazedo
    CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
  • KneelKneel Ten thick coats Registered User regular
    Bizazedo wrote: »
    Nice, @Kneel . I may not have been paying attention, but I think I saw that pic in a FB group I joined recently today.

    Very well done or someone's stealing your pic and passing it off as their own haha.

    I share my work from my project page, Monstrous Pigments, to a few hobby groups including Games Workshop Army Painters, so you probably saw it there.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
    ArthilFuselage
  • ToothyToothy Registered User regular
    I meant physically nicking it, but I was more curious if you'd thought of it. It's brilliant without it.

  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    1:3 is probably a better ratio, it’ll be pretty thin but you can always do multiple washes. Just don’t slop it on carelessly or you end up with pools of wash leaking everywhere.

    @Badablack

    Just so I'm clear here.... 1:3 paint to thinner?

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Nah the other way, one drop thinner to 3 drops paint.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    Nah the other way, one drop thinner to 3 drops paint.

    Glad I asked

    Thanks!

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    I have mostly finished some terminators. I'm still waiting on bases and a power axe.

    cqV3elP.jpg

    Extreaminatus on
    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    BadablackArcticLancerNipsKhraulDayspringKneelSmokeStacksElvenshaeFroThulhumanjifrayDiannaoChong
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Slapped some paint on the Broodlord. Gonna need to go find a gallon bucket of fleshshade once I start on the big monsters.
    LQZvKFX.jpg

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    DraevenIanatorExtreaminatusElvenshaeBetsuniAuralynxKhraulFroThulhuNips
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    Nah the other way, one drop thinner to 3 drops paint.

    That worked great btw... did a couple of coats last night on a different marine.

    Instead of a muddy look this one is kind of a warmer ivory.

    Gonna try to thin a bit more for the next one and just go like a shade off of the screaming skull for more of a bone finish.

    Thanks fella!

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
    Badablack
  • MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    ANFSCD: I'm painting War of the Ring (the boardgame) minis. They are yellow because Isengard is coded yellow in the game.
    DXdO7n3.jpg
    LYvD5Rw.jpg

    Mayday on
    Custom SpecialBetsuniKhraulSharp101ExtreaminatusDiannaoChong
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Is war of the ring that enormous sucker in the giant box shaped like a fake book? I remember it had a bunch of colored factions and stuff like a mountains and towers.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    ANFSCD?

    Edit: heh. Figured it out.

    Elvenshae on
    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
    The Disappearance of Inigo Sharpe: Tomas à Dunsanin
  • MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    Is war of the ring that enormous sucker in the giant box shaped like a fake book? I remember it had a bunch of colored factions and stuff like a mountains and towers.

    Coloured (painted) factions are only in the ULTRA-expensive collector's edition, the standard game has blue and red minis only (though yes, the borders on the maps have different colours), ditto for the book-shaped box.
    Sculpted towers and mountains are third-party add-ons.
    But yeah, you're more or less thinking of the right thing.

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    That makes sense then. I knew a guy REALLY into lord of the rings with that game, I guess he got the ultra super deluxe version with all the fixings. He had a specially engraved 24k gold One Ring made to go with it.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    KhraulElvenshae
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    Question: Are you supposed to thin and mix paints for an airbrush inside the gravity feed cup itself?

    04xkcuvaav19.png
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Question: Are you supposed to thin and mix paints for an airbrush inside the gravity feed cup itself?
    I mean ... "supposed to"? No, probably not. Can you? Sure. Would say it primarily depends on the quality of paint, how much thinning it needs, how much you're mixing ... things like that.
    Literally an hour ago I did some in-cup mixing for a really small session laying grey over an existing blue fade. Had no problems doing that, for example. But for the majority of times I use my airbrush I'll make sure I get the right consistency in a separate container and then pour it in. I think it's just a safer method if you want to build good habits, but it's kind of up to you to decide how comfortable you are making your cup mixes work.

    Nips
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Question: Are you supposed to thin and mix paints for an airbrush inside the gravity feed cup itself?
    I mean ... "supposed to"? No, probably not. Can you? Sure. Would say it primarily depends on the quality of paint, how much thinning it needs, how much you're mixing ... things like that.
    Literally an hour ago I did some in-cup mixing for a really small session laying grey over an existing blue fade. Had no problems doing that, for example. But for the majority of times I use my airbrush I'll make sure I get the right consistency in a separate container and then pour it in. I think it's just a safer method if you want to build good habits, but it's kind of up to you to decide how comfortable you are making your cup mixes work.

    Alrighty, cool. I just saw a guy in a youtube video doing it, and I'm so new to this whole thing I was wondering if I'd been doing it the hard way. Thanks for the advice!

    04xkcuvaav19.png
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Question: Are you supposed to thin and mix paints for an airbrush inside the gravity feed cup itself?
    I mean ... "supposed to"? No, probably not. Can you? Sure. Would say it primarily depends on the quality of paint, how much thinning it needs, how much you're mixing ... things like that.
    Literally an hour ago I did some in-cup mixing for a really small session laying grey over an existing blue fade. Had no problems doing that, for example. But for the majority of times I use my airbrush I'll make sure I get the right consistency in a separate container and then pour it in. I think it's just a safer method if you want to build good habits, but it's kind of up to you to decide how comfortable you are making your cup mixes work.

    Alrighty, cool. I just saw a guy in a youtube video doing it, and I'm so new to this whole thing I was wondering if I'd been doing it the hard way. Thanks for the advice!

    Yeah, it’s kid of an advanced technique you can only use to best effect with experience; unless you know instinctively how that thinner and that paint react and have done it the same way a couple hundred times you aren’t going to be super consistent mixing in the cup. Which isn’t an issue for one-offs usually but for an army? Pre-mix and keep the mix in a separate jar.
    Also you need to be aware of the needle; if you accidentally bend the needle while mixing, you’re kinda boned. Even if you have a spare, you’re probably going to lose whatever you were mixing while you change over anyway.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Put together a thick gruel of railroad sand, diorama dust, small rocks and bits of shale with watered down wood glue in a sealable container. It seems to work better and hold stronger than the usual layer of glue on the base, dip in basing, then cover in more glue method, though it probably doesn’t have a very long shelf life. Might try mixing in some acrylic medium as well to see if that helps.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Vallejo Course Pumice is the absolute best material for basing i have ever used.
    One tub will do multiple armies, and once dry it is very solid. You can push bits into it while wet and it'll keep them there forever.

  • KneelKneel Ten thick coats Registered User regular
    Dayspring wrote: »
    Vallejo Course Pumice is the absolute best material for basing i have ever used.
    One tub will do multiple armies, and once dry it is very solid. You can push bits into it while wet and it'll keep them there forever.

    Conversely I'm going through multiple tubs of Vallejo texture pastes for the diorama walls.
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Question: Are you supposed to thin and mix paints for an airbrush inside the gravity feed cup itself?
    I mean ... "supposed to"? No, probably not. Can you? Sure. Would say it primarily depends on the quality of paint, how much thinning it needs, how much you're mixing ... things like that.
    Literally an hour ago I did some in-cup mixing for a really small session laying grey over an existing blue fade. Had no problems doing that, for example. But for the majority of times I use my airbrush I'll make sure I get the right consistency in a separate container and then pour it in. I think it's just a safer method if you want to build good habits, but it's kind of up to you to decide how comfortable you are making your cup mixes work.

    Alrighty, cool. I just saw a guy in a youtube video doing it, and I'm so new to this whole thing I was wondering if I'd been doing it the hard way. Thanks for the advice!

    For a one off colour or model I thin in the cup, give it a stir with a shitty brush and backblow (cover the airhead and blow air back into the cup) for good measure.

    For armies though, totally premix your colours. Get yourself a bag of dropper bottles from eBay, they're invaluable.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
    GR_Zombie
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited January 2018
    Hmmm. I have a choice to make now.
    I've made pretty good progress since my last post about this guy, but I'm kinda faltering on the direction I want to take the piece because I've had two ... "stories" feel possible. Originally, it was meant to be sort of an action piece, pushing through a front line during an assault (I think of this one as "Breakthrough"). I figured I could amp this one up a bit by adding a 2nd drone with some shield effects (we've all seen that cool clear plastic stuff by now to know what I'm talking about, right?). The flip side is more subtle, with the suit and drone still hanging out, but less aggressively postured, and adding a few fire warriors or pathfinders onto the base. Picture more of a "Recon" scenario, since that's what I'm calling it. :P
    Anyway I'm sitting here half-way through painting the base and stalled on whether I want to paint the metal fence with fresh plasma burns, or corroded to shit, and I feel like the driving factor should be whatever colour scheme works the best to compliment what I've got so far. For the life of me I can't figure that out myself. Please, give me opinions.

    Rare WIP photos from Arctic's cell phone
    ws129d07u5y2.jpg

    ArcticLancer on
    ElvenshaeFroThulhuDiannaoChong
  • KneelKneel Ten thick coats Registered User regular
    Hmmm. I have a choice to make now.
    I've made pretty good progress since my last post about this guy, but I'm kinda faltering on the direction I want to take the piece because I've had two ... "stories" feel possible. Originally, it was meant to be sort of an action piece, pushing through a front line during an assault (I think of this one as "Breakthrough"). I figured I could amp this one up a bit by adding a 2nd drone with some shield effects (we've all seen that cool clear plastic stuff by now to know what I'm talking about, right?). The flip side is more subtle, with the suit and drone still hanging out, but less aggressively postured, and adding a few fire warriors or pathfinders onto the base. Picture more of a "Recon" scenario, since that's what I'm calling it. :P
    Anyway I'm sitting here half-way through painting the base and stalled on whether I want to paint the metal fence with fresh plasma burns, or corroded to shit, and I feel like the driving factor should be whatever colour scheme works the best to compliment what I've got so far. For the life of me I can't figure that out myself. Please, give me opinions.

    Rare WIP photos from Arctic's cell phone
    ws129d07u5y2.jpg

    Honestly, either will work fine. Rust and corrosion will be orange and turquoise.

    Plasma burns would, in my mind's eye, be hot orange.

    I personally reckon that it's your aesthetic choice.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
This discussion has been closed.