More work on team Blood Orange! Converted up Khorne's good dog Karanak, and repainted a Dread and my Caco Daemon Prince.
On reflection, it bugs me that the cacodaemon is rotating differently than the others...
Here's the old colours:
Damn you BOTP!
From memory, the cacodaemon is:
-pingpong ball
-chaos chariot plate for the face
-ogre banner for the crown/horns
-necron bits for the cyber-plates
-forgefiend teeth for the lower jaw
-lots of greenstuff
Years ago I painted a metal Necron Nightbringer by doing layers of actual metallic pen inks over the bare metal to try and get that liquid metal necrodermis look they’re supposed to have.
It looked pretty good in person with a color changing iridescent sheen, but I had to clean and scrub the metal to a bright mirror polish first, and the first game I played it fell over (being a big top heavy metal model on a 40mm base) and got chipped to hell from just the flock despite several layers of gloss varnish. So yeah, don’t paint bare metal without primer unless it’s a display piece in a cabinet where no one will ever touch it.
This is one of the ways I thought they painted necron vehicles, just with a matte finish instead.
Until the robot pointed how you do it I really had no idea I thought it was dark angels green and a ton of wash or something https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHAPbWbglps
I repainted some x-wing minis for a tournament. I'm considering using some Games Workshop transfers to add squad numberings to the ships, but I've never really had much luck with the transfers, especially with weathering them to make them look less clean when applied to a paintjob like this. Anyone got any tips on how to apply and weather transfers (white numbers, for reference) and make them look weathered up?
I repainted some x-wing minis for a tournament. I'm considering using some Games Workshop transfers to add squad numberings to the ships, but I've never really had much luck with the transfers, especially with weathering them to make them look less clean when applied to a paintjob like this. Anyone got any tips on how to apply and weather transfers (white numbers, for reference) and make them look weathered up?
Ok, so Vallejo makes a plastic putty that is great. If theres a cheaper way to make something similar I will find it so I can do it in bulk. I'll continue to research. But my first coat on something made me want to throw out my liquid greenstuff. I worked on this giant display of mushrooms for objective markers, trying to compare the differences. When you do 3d printing, one of the ways you can print, and depending on resolution, leaves visible printed layer differences. I've been occasionally posting here about how to fix that issue to make mini printing much more approachable with cheaper 3d printers like mine. I apply with a brush upwards against the grain of the layers to fill them in. You can mix in just the slightest bit of water, but have to give it extra time to dry.
Here's the putty and the outcome from a quick slap on layer.
Here's the experiment with liquid greenstuff that I was trying. Overall it was a failure, but I did a bunch of work and hopefully someone will see the processes I tried so they know the route they might want to take before committing to using a bunch of material.
Here's different test items that have varying processes done.
Left to right, using liquid green stuff(LGS):
Heavy LGS, heavy LGS and sanding, light lgs and nothing. You can't see the layers on the 'nothing' because of the light really, but the ridges are there and prominent.
Liquid green stuff shrinks when dried, making it almost completely worthless for filling gaps. sanding fixes this problem, but that just means you could take anything to bulk it up and sand it down smooth afterwards, and it's a redonk amount of time and effort. And you can't sand some small objects because of the nooks and crannies, as you can see here.
After priming on the LGS ones, this is the result. I'm sorry they are not in the same order. I have to be more organized about my experiments in the future.
From left to right:
Heavy LGS + sanded, heavy LGS, light LGS, nothing
Frankly they all painted up terribly, but were useable so I kept them. But the outcome really didn't show any difference:
One of these is sanded and one is original as far as I can tell, I accidentally lost track of how I marked the bottom of the bases ( I replaced one and didn't mark another) It doesn't seem to matter:
I was very disappointing and pretty much scrapped all the experiment because... liquid green stuff just doesn't work for this.
Anyways, I finished making some terrain for my 8 legged boar boyz. This is 3d printed in ~7 pieces, then using the plastic putty to gap and layer fill (its sectional modular terrain that I super glued in place) I attempted with regular green stuff, and trying to maybe get a more liquid consistency and it failed super hard. I had problems filling tiny gaps with regular green stuff. Base coated with cheap hobby paint, drybrushed with some good paint, flocked to hell, bushes added. I am super happy with how this came out:
With the team on it:
This modular hill terrain for wargamming is incredible, I scaled it down 50 or 75% to fit nicer in my display case. I might print out a ton of the full size for playing with.
@DiannaoChong So that Vallejo putty, would you say it'd be good to use for gap filling and such, even on metal minis? On some of the Reaper models I've gotten even, the gaps after putting them together are noticeable. Would you just apply that stuff with a brush?
I wasn't sure what to make of your post with the mushrooms because you didn't really explain what you used the putty, and previously the liquid greenstuff for.
Custom SpecialI know I am, I'm sure I am,I'm Sounders 'til I die!Registered Userregular
Ok thread, I just picked up a couple 40k vehicles cheap. I'm planning on Simple Green for removing paint, but does it strip decals just as well? Or do I need to do some work before SG on the decals?
Not sure on metal, it dries up a little grainy/textured and might do the job? I've used it on PLA only so far.
When you 3d print with a lot of hobby grade printers, the resolution isn't great, and you are left with visible layers that dont look right if you try to just paint them. So I need to fill the spaces in between the ridges of the layers. if you look closely at the nuke green mushroom in the LGS pictures, thats what they look like off the printer. I'll edit my post, you are right, I jumped the gun there. I've been tooling around in the thread talking about that stuff but took a lengthy absence while other stuff piled up
So I know 91% isopropyl alcohol is great for stripping models but how would I remove glue or wads of glue?
I know acetone is great but I really don't need that much so what else can I use?
If its super glue, you can freeze, and it will become brittle. But if you need some parts to remain glue, you have just weakened those joints.
Dayspring I've been applying with a brush, upwards against the grain to try and fill the ridges. usually by the time I finish a first coat, its set just a little bit, and I can start a second coat if I feel its necessary.
Don’t get simple green or isopropyl. Pick up something called biostrip. It’s a white liquid about pva glue consistency. You paint it onto the model or just dip it in the pot, leave it about an hour and then just give the model a scrub with a brush and warm water.
It’s non-toxic, has no horrible fumes (just a faint almond smell) and works like a charm.
Don’t get simple green or isopropyl. Pick up something called biostrip. It’s a white liquid about pva glue consistency. You paint it onto the model or just dip it in the pot, leave it about an hour and then just give the model a scrub with a brush and warm water.
It’s non-toxic, has no horrible fumes (just a faint almond smell) and works like a charm.
Don’t get simple green or isopropyl. Pick up something called biostrip. It’s a white liquid about pva glue consistency. You paint it onto the model or just dip it in the pot, leave it about an hour and then just give the model a scrub with a brush and warm water.
It’s non-toxic, has no horrible fumes (just a faint almond smell) and works like a charm.
Faint almond smell?
Is it cyanide?
I can’t actually find what chemical it is, but it is water based and non-toxic. And an hour is a massive time saver.
Custom SpecialI know I am, I'm sure I am,I'm Sounders 'til I die!Registered Userregular
Yeah, Biostrip appears to be widely available in UK? In the US I'd have to order from a cleaning supply website, and it costs a lot more than Simple Green or Purple Power (easy to find, and like $5 for half a gallon).
I feel like heaving thorax, glistening ovipositor, full on pheromone-spraying bug porn is one of those subjects that has a sizable number of fans, but mostly of the ‘owns a lot of rusted chains and tarps’ populace.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Alright then. Finally got off my ass, gathered up all these bare plastic tyranids, then sat back down on my ass with an airbrush and a pint of Vallejo grey surface primer. 50 termagants, 30 genestealers, 6 hive guard, 30 spore mines, 6 biovores, 3 mucolids, and a hive tyrant primed. Mixed together 5 pots of p3 Menoth White with airbrush thinner in its own pint pot for tomorrow, when the Great Whitening shall occur.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+6
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I received a package today from Badger. Thought it might be my new airbrush, but it was the quick disconnect parts I ordered last week from US Airbrush Supply.
I received a package today from Badger. Thought it might be my new airbrush, but it was the quick disconnect parts I ordered last week from US Airbrush Supply.
With how many orders they got, you should expect that airbrush...
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Different degrees of thinness can have different applications.
You do not want to try drybrushing with a thinned paint. A basecoat can generally be a little thicker than a layer, etc. Plus being able to eyeball the correct thickness is a good skill to develop.
Thinning an entire pot is mostly an airbrush thing where your coats are gonna be a pretty consistent...consistency. With hairbrushing it’s kind of a waste to thin the whole pot at once. Get some dropper bottles and mix in your own thinned alternates instead if you feel like it will help with efficiency.
Posts
Damn you BOTP!
From memory, the cacodaemon is:
-pingpong ball
-chaos chariot plate for the face
-ogre banner for the crown/horns
-necron bits for the cyber-plates
-forgefiend teeth for the lower jaw
-lots of greenstuff
It wasn't bothering me until you pointed it out.
This is one of the ways I thought they painted necron vehicles, just with a matte finish instead.
Until the robot pointed how you do it I really had no idea I thought it was dark angels green and a ton of wash or something
Buy us drinks first, Jesus.
@McGibs that Caco is beautiful and I want to touch it.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I repainted some x-wing minis for a tournament. I'm considering using some Games Workshop transfers to add squad numberings to the ships, but I've never really had much luck with the transfers, especially with weathering them to make them look less clean when applied to a paintjob like this. Anyone got any tips on how to apply and weather transfers (white numbers, for reference) and make them look weathered up?
Edit - removed image because it's too big...
Weathering
A long video though but goes into great detail about water slide transfers
Here's the putty and the outcome from a quick slap on layer.
Here's the experiment with liquid greenstuff that I was trying. Overall it was a failure, but I did a bunch of work and hopefully someone will see the processes I tried so they know the route they might want to take before committing to using a bunch of material.
Left to right, using liquid green stuff(LGS):
Heavy LGS, heavy LGS and sanding, light lgs and nothing. You can't see the layers on the 'nothing' because of the light really, but the ridges are there and prominent.
Liquid green stuff shrinks when dried, making it almost completely worthless for filling gaps. sanding fixes this problem, but that just means you could take anything to bulk it up and sand it down smooth afterwards, and it's a redonk amount of time and effort. And you can't sand some small objects because of the nooks and crannies, as you can see here.
After priming on the LGS ones, this is the result. I'm sorry they are not in the same order. I have to be more organized about my experiments in the future.
From left to right:
Heavy LGS + sanded, heavy LGS, light LGS, nothing
Frankly they all painted up terribly, but were useable so I kept them. But the outcome really didn't show any difference:
One of these is sanded and one is original as far as I can tell, I accidentally lost track of how I marked the bottom of the bases ( I replaced one and didn't mark another) It doesn't seem to matter:
I was very disappointing and pretty much scrapped all the experiment because... liquid green stuff just doesn't work for this.
Anyways, I finished making some terrain for my 8 legged boar boyz. This is 3d printed in ~7 pieces, then using the plastic putty to gap and layer fill (its sectional modular terrain that I super glued in place) I attempted with regular green stuff, and trying to maybe get a more liquid consistency and it failed super hard. I had problems filling tiny gaps with regular green stuff. Base coated with cheap hobby paint, drybrushed with some good paint, flocked to hell, bushes added. I am super happy with how this came out:
With the team on it:
This modular hill terrain for wargamming is incredible, I scaled it down 50 or 75% to fit nicer in my display case. I might print out a ton of the full size for playing with.
I wasn't sure what to make of your post with the mushrooms because you didn't really explain what you used the putty, and previously the liquid greenstuff for.
When you 3d print with a lot of hobby grade printers, the resolution isn't great, and you are left with visible layers that dont look right if you try to just paint them. So I need to fill the spaces in between the ridges of the layers. if you look closely at the nuke green mushroom in the LGS pictures, thats what they look like off the printer. I'll edit my post, you are right, I jumped the gun there. I've been tooling around in the thread talking about that stuff but took a lengthy absence while other stuff piled up
I know acetone is great but I really don't need that much so what else can I use?
Dayspring I've been applying with a brush, upwards against the grain to try and fill the ridges. usually by the time I finish a first coat, its set just a little bit, and I can start a second coat if I feel its necessary.
It’s non-toxic, has no horrible fumes (just a faint almond smell) and works like a charm.
Faint almond smell?
Is it cyanide?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Simple Green will probably do the same
I can’t actually find what chemical it is, but it is water based and non-toxic. And an hour is a massive time saver.
I'm on to you, genestealer.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Anything like biostrip in Canada? Searches for that product in Canada come up with mostly urine tests :rotate:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yes: Red, black, blue, green and purple cleaning agents are bad. Gold, silver, bronze and copper cleaning agents are good.
Funnily enough I used to to strip some Tyranids...
Hot.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Barely legal termagaunt takes an entire planet whole
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
With how many orders they got, you should expect that airbrush...
In about a year?
If the mantra is to always thin your paints, is there any merit to just pre-thinning an entire pot using acrylic thinner?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
You do not want to try drybrushing with a thinned paint. A basecoat can generally be a little thicker than a layer, etc. Plus being able to eyeball the correct thickness is a good skill to develop.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
:heartbeat: This thread
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!